Indholdsfortegnelse for July 2025 i Tatler GMT

OLIVIER MÜLLER Olivier Müller is a luxury journalist and consultant. He divides his time between Geneva and Paris, covering horology-related topics for more than a dozen magazines and specialist websites in Europe. He is also a regular speaker at events, and author of several reference books. For this issue, he delves into the synergy between watch designers and movement makers. ANANDHI GOPINATH A passionate writer with wide-ranging interests, Anandhi Gopinath covers the luxury lifestyle scene with a nuanced take on what discerning audiences look for when it comes to the good life. She writes primarily on watches, wheels and whiskies, but will never say no to a good story. For this issue of Tatler GMT, she explores the Rolex Dynapulse Escapement. DAVID CHOKRON Paris-based journalist David Chokron admits to being…

Jewellery watches took centre stage at Watches and Wonders 2025, transforming the fair into a dazzling showcase where horology met haute joaillerie. This year, the trend is not just about telling time—it’s about making a statement, with watches that blur the line between wristwear and wearable art. Let’s start with Piaget. The new Piaget Aura Rainbow is a showstopper, reimagining the iconic 1989 Aura design as a seamless gradient of colour. Each baguette-cut gemstone—diamonds, sapphires, rubies—has been sourced and set to create a fluid, uninterrupted spectrum that shimmers across the wrist. The integration of case and bracelet is so flawless, it feels like wearing a living canvas of light. Underneath all that sparkle is Piaget’s ultra-thin mechanical movement. Hermès, never one to play by the rules, has thrown out the…

A glance at Toronto-based Dan Tanenbaum’s Instagram might initially suggest he’s simply a sculptor with a specific vibe. But there’s an interesting story behind his artistic pieces, which began with vintage watches. He takes elements of timepieces which have been discarded and uses them to build sculptures that have garnered interest from collectors around the world, including celebrities like singer and famous watch fan John Mayer, rapper Chief Keef and DJ Steve Aoki. Raised in a family of antiquarians, Tanenbaum developed a discerning eye for vintage objects, though he only began his own watch collection in his late twenties. His artistic epiphany struck in 2010, when he found a box deemed as “garbage” in a watch dealer’s shop, containing watch parts. Where others saw mere scrap, Tanenbaum saw potential. This…

Ahead of Watches and Wonders 2025, Tatler GMT sat down with Matthieu Humair, the CEO of the fair, who discussed its evolution and new initiatives and gave us an insider’s look at how it all came together. This year’s event was the largest and most comprehensive yet. With a record number of brands participating, a renewed focus on community engagement, and cutting-edge innovations on display, Watches and Wonders 2025 wowed both industry professionals and watch enthusiasts alike. With a surge in everything from the number of exhibiting brands to journalists in attendance, the fair’s growth reflects the resilience and creativity of the watchmaking industry, even in the face of global economic challenges. In this conversation with Humair, Tatler GMT uncovers how Watches and Wonders has become far more than a…

Tag Heuer started 2025 with a bang, being named title sponsor of Formula One. What can you tell us about this? The beauty of this partnership is that it is organic. We’re broadcasting, to viewers all over the world, content in the form of official timekeeping, something that is intrinsically linked to Tag Heuer’s history. Our 60 years of involvement in F1 are a collective memory; and now, we can highlight the ties between the organisations via our various platforms: Watches and Wonders, the Grand Prix experience and our editorial content. It’s a long-term process. We are also adding an emotional dimension that you will see in the new campaigns that highlight the maison’s values—most notably the idea of self-improvement. Whether on the track or in its ateliers, customers expect…

Guillaume Chautru, the man in charge of gemstones at Piaget, has a background as vivid as the stones he hunts. Formerly a zoologist with a very specific focus, Chautru’s fascination with colour led him into the study of gemstones. Now, as Piaget’s head of gemmology, he combines scientific expertise with an adventurer’s spirit to source and shape extraordinary stones that define the maison’s bold and colourful identity. Tatler GMT caught up with him over a video call to explore his journey from exotic terrains to exquisite creations. How did you get into gemmology? It’s a funny story. Before being a gemmologist, I was a herpetologist [an expert in amphibians and reptiles]. The common point between [my two] passions is colour. When I was a herpetologist, I was running after the…

James Li’s obsession with luxury watches began not in the nerve-wracking halls of auction houses nor the gleaming boutiques of luxury brands, but rather in the confines of his father’s wardrobe in his home in mainland China. It was there, among the “big, chunky, military-style watches from Russia”, that Li’s fascination began. “That is my first memory of any watches,” he says. As China’s economy flourished, so too did the range of watches available to the young Li. From Omega to Cartier, his taste in timepieces became refined and sophisticated. At the same time, he was developing an interest in mechanical gadgets and technology sparked by his enthusiasm for film cameras. This soon translated into curiosity about the intricate workings of horological treasures—which were also easier to transport. He says,…

Two years in, and I’m still pinching myself that Tatler GMT exists. What started as a wild idea—“What if we created an entire magazine just for watch nerds?”—has become this beautiful love letter to horological madness. There is so much to talk about in every issue; honestly, this year’s Watches and Wonders gave us more material than we knew what to do with. Let’s start with our cover star: Patek Philippe’s Twenty~4 ref. 7340/1R in rose gold. It’s the first perpetual calendar in the collection, and it’s absolutely stunning. The 36mm case contains the ultra-thin 240 Q calibre, and is proof that complications aren’t just boys’ toys any more. But here’s what really got my heart racing this year—the rise of microbrands. These aren’t your typical David-versus-Goliath stories; we’re talking…

The green wave at Watches and Wonders 2025 is impossible to ignore—and honestly, it’s never looked fresher. This year, green isn’t just a colour; it’s a statement about individuality and optimism, and a subtle rebellion against the monochrome status quo. Brands are embracing everything from soft pistachio to architectural slate, mint and khaki, and each colour has its own personality and story to tell. Take the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green, for example. Limited to just 50 pieces, this watch is a masterclass in contemporary skeletonisation, with a slate green hue that sits beautifully between pistachio and olive. The openworked movement isn’t just technically impressive—it’s visually mesmerising, playing with light and shadow in a way that feels almost architectural. This is green as sophistication, not novelty. Rolex, always…

If you’ve ever found yourself hypnotised by the whirling ballet of a tourbillon through a sapphire caseback, you’re not alone. A centuries-old solution to a problem that no longer exists, the complication has spun its way from horological breakthrough to ultimate status symbol. But not everyone is a fan. I sat down with Barry Cheung, partner at Classic Watch Repair and a man who’s seen more tourbillons than most, to talk about the myth, the mechanics and the very human madness behind the most coveted complication in watchmaking. When it was first made, the tourbillon was a mechanical breakthrough. How do you see its role today—does it still have mechanical merit or is it now more of a visual statement? The whole idea of a tourbillon is about offsetting gravity.…

PHILLIPS SELLS A RARE CARTIER CLOCK Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo delivered exceptional results with The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX held May 23-25, achieving a remarkable US$27,139,906 (HK$212,528,630) total. The sale surpassed pre-sale estimates by 30 per cent year-on-year, with an outstanding 99.8 per cent sell-through rate by lot and 99.6 per cent by value, demonstrating the robust health of the luxury watch market. The auction attracted 1,800 registered bidders from 70 countries, with 70 per cent of lots selling to online participants, highlighting the global reach of digital platforms. Leading the sale was a possibly unique Patek Philippe ref. 5970P-013 in platinum, featuring four red hands and the touching inscription “A Mon Fils” (“To My Son”), which achieved over US$1.29 million. The star piece for us…

At first glance, guilloché might seem like just another fancy word tossed around in the world of luxury watches. But dig a little deeper and you’ll find it’s far more than a decorative flourish—it’s a centuries-old craft that combines artistry with precision, all wrapped up in mesmerising, intricate, engraved patterns of interlacing lines and spirals that seem to dance across metal surfaces. Though widely celebrated today as a hallmark of haute horlogerie, guilloché’s story is one of evolution—a journey from artisanal beginnings towards becoming a defining feature of luxury watchmaking. Tatler GMT sat down with Finnish master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, who is known for his mastery of ornate engraving techniques. As well as his work on timepieces, he has also collaborated with Sauvereign, a Hong Kong-based luxury brand. Voutilainen recently…

A watch is born of two parents: the artistic director and the technical department. The former designs the watch and the latter its beating heart: the movement. Given that collectors care as much about the aesthetics of their timepieces as the craftsmanship of their calibres, designers and watchmakers have to get along—whatever it takes. “The difficulty for a designer is handling the expectations of a movement developer who assumes that you can’t sell a watch without a movement, so the calibre must come first,” explains Antoine Tschumi, an independent watch designer. “In reality, it’s a complete entity that must enshrine the brand’s DNA.” This may seem like common sense, yet it hasn’t always been self-evident. Cos Hayret, who currently collaborates with Bremont having previously worked for Van Cleef & Arpels…

Every spring, the great and good of le monde de l’horlogerie flock to Geneva for Watches and Wonders, a celebration of the best in horological innovation. At this year’s event, Cartier once again proved why it sits at the very pinnacle of both watchmaking and high jewellery. This year’s novelties included the return of the legendary Tank à Guichets, a bold evolution of the Tank Louis Cartier; sculptural new Tressage models; and dazzling high-jewellery Panthère creations. Each piece reflects a maison intent on honouring its heritage while fearlessly pushing the boundaries of design and craftsmanship. Tatler GMT sat down at the fair with Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s creative director for watches and jewellery. She shares her philosophy on fusing the maison’s dual expertise and her ambitions for Cartier’s next chapter, as…

There’s a particular thrill in fastening my Jaeger-LeCoultre onto my wrist before setting out for the maison’s manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. It provides a sense of connection to a lineage of innovation that began in 1833, when Antoine LeCoultre first set up his workshop in this remote Swiss valley. Our small group of editors left the frenetic energy of Watches and Wonders behind in Geneva and the city faded into the rolling green of the Jura—a gentle transition from the world of commerce to the world of craft. As the air grew crisper, the conversations in the car turned to the legends of Jaeger-LeCoultre: its more than 1,200 calibres, 430 patents and reputation as the “watchmaker of watchmakers”. We pull up to the complex with its historic façade,…

ICONS ONLY Van Cleef & Arpels revisits one of its most famous designs with the Cadenas watch—a creation that debuted in 1935 as a padlock-inspired timepiece allowing for discreet glances at the hour. This year’s iteration combines yellow gold with snow-set diamonds and princess-cut sapphires. The angled dial ensures subtle timekeeping while the double snake chain bracelet drapes around the wrist like liquid gold. With its history, innovation and style, the Cadenas remains a timeless symbol of sophistication—and a reminder that some designs never go out of style. RACE TIME Who needs batteries when you’ve got the sun? With its solar-powered calibre TH50-00 movement, Tag Heuer’s Formula 1 Solargraph charges in just two minutes of sunlight—yes, two minutes—and runs for up to ten months on a full charge. At 38mm,…

The perpetual calendar is enjoying a renaissance, and watchmakers are pushing the boundaries of both design and engineering. Breitling’s Navitimer B19 is a case in point: it elevates the legendary pilot’s watch with a perpetual calendar chronograph movement for the first time. The watch features an ice-blue dial and platinum bezel that complement the 43mm stainless-steel case. The perpetual calendar displays day, date, month and moonphase. Everything is adjusted via the crown and mushroom pushers. It’s practical, robust and thoroughly Breitling, right down to the illustrated moonphase and 96-hour power reserve. IWC Schaffhausen’s Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month takes a different route. Its Ceratanium case is lightweight and tough, while the digital calendar displays—massive gold discs for date and month—are inspired by the brand’s historic Pallweber pocket…

Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection exudes refined, classical elegance, distinguished by a 950 platinum case, dauphine hands and delicate minute track—design cues that nod to 18th-century pocket watches. In celebration of its 270th year, the maison introduces a new ultra-slim calibre alongside three openworked creations, each paying tribute to its enduring legacy. THIN TITAN The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar debuts the self-winding Calibre 2162 QP/270, an evolution of 2018’s Calibre 2160. Its ultra-thin architecture—achieved via a peripheral rotor—allows the elegant tourbillon to take centre stage. Beating at 18,000 vibrations per hour, the movement features a patented secure-drive system that enables bidirectional calendar adjustments. The bridges are finished with a côte unique motif, a century-old decoration once exclusive to the maison and revived in 2021. Presented in a 42mm platinum case, the…

Hot take: designing a watch is more difficult when it comes to a “simple” model. This might seem counterintuitive, but that’s because simplicity is often confused with convenience, bareness with emptiness and purity with classicism. But the smaller the model, for example, the more sophisticated the creative process. All watches are relatively small, and a timepiece that is free of any complications or embellishments means it is fully exposed. Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, says, “I think designing a watch with two hands is the most fascinating and stimulating thing one can do. It relies on the power of an aesthetic idea that underpins strong, balanced creativity designed to stand the test of time.” Designing a complication watch is in many ways simpler. Different features have different requirements when…

The J12 Bleu features a dark, almost black shade of blue ceramic. How did you come up with this combination of materials and colours? While many people say black and blue is not a successful combination, Gabrielle Chanel proved otherwise on many occasions. I was captivated by this blue-black duality, as well as by the interplay between the matt, muted ceramic and the blackened gold sprinkled with sapphires. I didn’t specify a Pantone colour to aim for; it took countless tests and nearly five years of research to achieve this shade, which triggers this particular emotional response. What was the biggest challenge in making this model? My dream was to be able to dress the J12 in this particular blue; yet achieving a new ceramic colour is an extremely complex…

SHADES AT SUNSET The colours of sunset are hot this season—think rich ambers, burnt oranges and the Longines Mini Dolce Vita in 18-karat yellow gold that mirrors golden-hour skies. A cute Magda Butrym dress sets the tone for seaside dinners, while bold Alexander McQueen sneakers add a flash of fire to city strolls. This summer, it’s all about colours that catch the light and linger long after dusk. COMFORT FIRST Gentlemen, this season is all about comfort with a dash of attitude—summer is calling on you to lose the sleeves, and those bare wrists are all the better to show off the Richard Mille RM43-01 Carbon TPT and make the right statement even when the temperature rises. At Dolce & Gabbana, sleek, brown, sleeveless shirts offer a sharp update for…