Indholdsfortegnelse for Teach Yourself Astrophotography i Teach Yourself Astrophotography

Award-winning astrophotographer Ollie Taylor (ollietaylorphotography.com) explains that from a landscape astrophotography point of view, there are several elements that make up a strong image within this type of genre. With careful planning, coordinated with favorable weather, most of the key fundamentals to a successful shoot and outcome are calculable. Naturally, the landscape element requires a wellcomposed and thought-provoking foreground interest, which must be coupled with a strong night-sky element. Practice makes perfect. Aspire to be unique, think out of the box. Rare nightsky occurrences add dynamics, or become the generic makeup of the main image subject; these types of occurrences can occasionally be incorporated with careful planning through apps and website research. Aim to produce images that engage the viewer, capturing their attention not only by the glistening night sky…

Mankind has long had a special relationship with the Moon. It’s been the subject of folklore, art and wonder since the dawn of time, culminating in the famous space race of the mid-20th Century. This eventually saw the entire planet watch in awe and fascination as Apollo 11 landed on the Moon in July 1969. Only a privileged few of us will ever go for a walk on the Moon, so it’s no surprise that our near neighbour is a compelling muse for artists as well as astrophotographers. And best of all, the Moon can be shot at any time of the year, even during periods that are otherwise challenging for astrophotographers, as Phil Young (www.newforestastro.com) explains. “In the Northern Hemisphere, around the time of the summer solstice, there will…

Although it might seem like a high-tech genre, getting started or getting serious about astrophotography needn’t mean spending a fortune on new kit. Even entrylevel DSLRs can take perfectly good afterdark landscape shots with the right lenses and accessories attached. In this section we’ll pick out full-frame and pro mirrorless camera options that are bound to elevate your images, alongside the best lenses. After all, it’s important you find out what you should be looking for. Generally speaking, the more light you can let into the camera and onto the sensor, the better your wide maximum apertures and high ISO capabilities! Once we’ve covered the basics of camera kit, we’ll look at the specialist equipment needed for more detailed photos of astro phenomenon. With modest stargazing equipment such as a…

CCD stands for charge-coupled device, and a CCD camera is designed to capture the dimmest light from astronomical subjects that are sometimes many lightyears away. Without delving into the technical workings of a CCD camera, the main advantage of CCD imaging is the sensitivity to light. They can be up to 50 times more sensitive than a standard DSLR. Switching to a CCD camera from a DSLR is the natural progression when taking your astrophotography from general starscapes to deep-sky imaging. So, what should you look out for when browsing CCD cameras? They come in a myriad of shapes and sizes, and while some manufacturers have focused on the design and feel of a model, there are very basic cameras that opt for function over form. To add to the…

Most cameras work by saving images and video files to a storage device such as an SD or MicroSD card that slots into the camera. These memory cards come in different sizes – the bigger the card, the more images you can shoot before you run out of space. It’s not always a great idea to use a huge memory card to store all of your images on though, as if it corrupts you will have lost the entire shoot. Sometimes it’s better to split a shoot over a series of smaller cards. When you buy your camera, the accompanying manual will tell you what type of card fits into the unit. Some manufacturers release a list of SD cards compatible with various makes of camera. Check their website to…

It’s important to keep your kit safe by investing in a suitable bag or case – a dedicated camera bag with protective padding really is a must if you’re spending a lot of money on kit. The range of bags on the market is astounding and you’ll find one to fit your needs, whether it’s for adventuring with your camera or making a fashion statement. Quality is the most important factor when choosing a bag; this will be what protects your camera, so you should be sure that the materials used are up to standard. Also keep in mind the other gear and accessories you have to carry along with you. If you’re a DSLR user and you have plenty of lenses and flash accessories then choose a bag that…

Capturing landscapes at night – especially when you are trying to include the Milky Way – requires patience, technical skill and local knowledge, as well as the culmination of a number of different environmental conditions coming together, usually at the last moment. You are working at the extreme limits of your camera – wide-open apertures, long exposures and very high sensitivities (ISO 3200 and upwards) are the norm. You can also be working at the edge of your own abilities, staying up late, or going out very early in the morning. However, partly because of the challenges involved, photographing night-time landscapes and the Milky Way is fun and addictive. You will quickly find yourself getting into the habit of checking the Moon phases, the weather forecast, and scoping out locations…

When you’re at the location where you want to photograph the night sky, chances are it will be very dark and difficult to see, particularly if where you’re shooting falls within very dark skies. Consider using longer exposures and torches in order to ‘paint’ light onto foreground elements. There are some incredibly powerful portable torches on the market today, which will do the job of lighting up your shot quite well, or even battery-powered lighting rigs. But it’s important to take into consideration other photographers who may also be photographing the Milky Way. Don’t shine a light at them, during their exposures, because you’ll ruin their shots. Torches with a setting to only shine red light are particularly useful for astrophotographers because this wavelength has less of an effect on…

Depending on your location on Earth, including which hemisphere and the time of year, you will have some decisions to make. In general, during the summer at the location described in this feature (southwestern United States), many hydrogen emission (HII) targets (aka, nebulae) are visible as the edge of our Milky Way crosses into our night sky. As winter approaches, there are somewhat more galaxies available. Considering what you enjoy the most, or have the most interest in, can be the biggest driving factor. Planetarium software, such as Stellarium, will set the date/time based on your computer’s time, and you need only set your location. Once set, you can go forward (or backward) in time to see what will be rising that night and when it sets again on the…

The primary steps for image processing are almost as involved as the setup and capture. The first step for image processing is the calibration phase. The normal calibration frames are flats, darks, flat darks and bias – in the data library for the images in this feature, ten of each of these calibration frames are used to create a master for each by combining through software. Details of how to collect these calibration frames and combining them are beyond the scope of this feature, but are well documented on the web and other sources. For the application of the calibration frames, Astroart handles this through the Preprocessing feature, where it enables you to add your‘light frames’ (the data images), as well as each of the calibration frames. Following calibration, stacking…

As far as photographic genres go, there aren’t many that are as specialised as astrophotography. While there are a plethora of challenges faced by photographers shooting subjects on Earth, attempting to capture quality, detailed colour images of objects several light years away raises the workload to new levels. While this field of imaging may be seen as resource dependent and therefore prohibitively expensive to many, deep space photographer Chris Baker (cosmologychris.co.uk) believes anyone can enjoy shooting celestial subjects. “What I do is relatively advanced, time-consuming, a serious passion and certainly not cheap,” admits Chris. “However, please don’t think you need an observatory on a mountain in Spain, many thousands of pounds of equipment and a lot of time, to start observing the heavens or photographing deep space. Good results can…

A beautifully clear, star-filled night sky is one of the most amazing sights to see on Earth, but it’s becoming increasingly rare. As cities expand and the number of artificial lights increase, night skies are becoming brighter and gradually wiping out all trace of the stars. This doesn’t just prevent us from seeing starscapes, it has negative consequences for human health, for ecosystems – and wastes a huge amount of energy. Harun Mehmedinovic and Gavin Heffernan wanted to make this phenomenon more widely known. They realized they could do this through their astrophotography and time-lapse videos. To achieve their goal of releasing a book and Blu-Ray, Gavin and Harun decided to crowdfund their project. It became the fourth most successful Kickstarter photobook campaign ever. However, that was just the beginning…

This is one of the most popular subjects in night photography – the Moon is beautiful to look at but also very challenging to capture in a photo. Anyone with a long zoom lens or a point-and-shoot camera can get a decent photo, but it most likely will not have the same impact as an image with detailed texture of the Moon’s surface without any further processing. By using the wrong camera settings, poor focus or an unsteady tripod, the result will be a photo that may look right at first sight, but upon zooming in the errors will become evident. The longer the focal length, the more attention is needed in order to get a sharp photo. The method that you will learn here uses a T-ring adaptor coupled…

This is one of Mother Nature’s greatest displays; a dazzling curtain of greens and pinks that dances across the night sky. But how easy is it to photograph the Northern Lights? Well, in terms of technique it’s not difficult at all, you simply need a tripod and a DSLR that performs well at high ISOs. It’s sighting the aurora that proves more tricky. On our five-day trip to Norway we saw the aurora twice, while others we spoke to had seen just one faint display in two weeks. The elusiveness is part of the appeal, and makes a sighting even more special. But there are ways to increase your chances. The aurora may occasionally be spotted in Scotland or even further south, but the best chance of seeing the Northern…

There are meteor showers which occur regularly, some of which can give spectacular displays. But photographing them can be a challenge! It seems to be the case that your camera is never pointing in the right direction, or the shutter is never open when a really nice shooting star crosses the sky. However, if you use a wide-angle lens and a programmable shutter release for your DSLR camera – sometimes known as an intervalometer – which controls your camera so you don’t have to, you can increase your chances of getting at least one or two and probably more meteors streaking across the frame. There is no particular direction in which to point your camera, although near the zenith – that’s straight up – is often good for those nice…

Who hasn’t paused for an instant to gaze at the stars, becoming lost in the moment, wondering in awe, ‘just what is out there?’ The answer? A bewildering limitlessness of space – time and space so incalculable; its infiniteness is simply incomprehensible to the human mind. A space so vast that the photographic possibilities are endless, the creative opportunities are limitless and the subjects are truly spectacular. So what better genre is there to sink your teeth into other than astrophotography? Advances in DSLR technology enable us to capture some of these distant wonders on relatively inexpensive digital cameras and telescope setups, opening the art of astrophotography to an expansive audience. Over the last decade, the practice of astrophotography has certainly increased astronomically in popularity, especially the landscape astrophotography genre.…

As with landscape photography, meticulous planning is absolutely vital for shooting space. An understanding of the location, viewpoints, paths, cliff tops, tides and mountain forecasts is imperative. Preparation for landscape astrophotography is far more complex, as all the usual aforementioned considerations, and then some, are required. When arriving at a location in the hours of darkness, prior knowledge of the area is crucial. A thorough understanding of the area also helps with the number-one factor of your image-making – composition. Light pollution is another critical element. Too much, and the sky detail renders washed out in an orangey haze, though this may not be the end of the world depending on how it’s incorporated. The inclusion of a certain amount of light pollution at one side of the image or…

Once all the planning has been coordinated and an element of luck has struck in light of the weather, it’s then down to how the shot is to be set up and executed. Captivate the viewer by combining land and sky elements. Composition should follow the exact same principles as general landscape photography. It’s tempting to angle the tripod head so the lens attains a huge amount of sky; though this may be necessary on occasion, aiming for the zenith, and only incorporating a miniscule proportion of shadowy foreground, will not complement gaping skies, no matter how fascinating the shimmering stars. Learn to sacrifice some of the universe to incorporate planet Earth. Rules are made to be broken, but rule of thirds, however, usually has its uses, creating a smooth…

Although entry-level cameras can be used for astrophotography, DSLRs with full-frame sensors are the more suitable choice as they have bigger sensors, which in turn collect more light (in very lowlight conditions) and produce images with less noise. If you’re looking to invest in a new model, the choice of camera brand really doesn’t matter in terms of the results you can achieve. The two biggest players in the market are still Canon or Nikon, so if you’ve already started with one brand, it makes sense to stick with them when you upgrade. Astrophotography often relies on very long exposures, so one of the key elements to look for in a DSLR is low image noise and high sensitivity. As well as these considerations, you should also think about any…

Tripods are an essential piece of equipment to keep your images straight and let you play around with creative effects. Even the steadiest of hands can’t produce clear long exposures free from camera shake, so if you want to add a professional edge to your work it’s an idea to get one. Weight and stability are the two major concerns when buying a tripod. You’ll probably have to carry your tripod a fair amount so you want it to be light, yet at the same time you want to be able to take the weight of your camera and not tip over from a gust of wind. When selecting a model check whether it comes with the right attachment for your camera and if it comes with a head. Professional…

The more you clean and maintain your gear, the longer it lasts and the better it performs. Cleaning products need not be complicated, and if you do it regularly you’ll avoid any heavy-duty maintenance. Keeping your lenses, viewfinder and sensor clean is vital to keeping your camera working well and producing good images, but making sure there’s no dirt on the body of the camera that can slip into the SD card slot or battery chamber is just as important. If you take due care that your camera doesn’t get dirty then cleaning becomes easier too. “The more you maintain your gear, the longer it lasts. If you take due care that your camera doesn’t get dirty then cleaning becomes easier too” Always replace lens caps as soon as you…

You can capture detail in the Milky Way with any camera you have access to, but if you are very serious about pursuing this field and improving your results, investing in a full-frame model will be worthwhile in the long-term. With the purchase of a full-frame camera, your low-light performance will be improved dramatically. A larger camera sensor size means that the digital chip inside has a larger surface area to capture light. Similarly, a basic camera and tripod setup will yield good results when using up to 30-second exposures, but a motorised camera mount will allow for longer exposures and stationary stars in your shots. Although a standard kit lens will yield some results at its widest angle, you will capture more of the sky and enable more light…

Hot pixels are one of the perils of longexposure photography. When the camera shutter is open for a long time, the sensor captures a lot of light and records a lot of data. This causes the electronic chip to warm up, resulting in some pixels in your image looking very bright. The amount it heats up depends on your exposure time, as well as the age and condition of your camera. One way to reduce the number is to turn on Long Exposure Noise Reduction. However, if you don’t have this setting available to you, you can record a ‘dark frame’ once you’ve finished your long exposure. A dark frame acts as a map, telling your editing software where these hot pixels occur. You can then overlay this dark frame…

A deep space setup can be quite involved and time consuming, but in order to shoot the best possible imagery you should make sure that you prepare well in advance. For imaging using an astroCCD, multiple steps are required to ensure that long exposures of deep space objects are possible. Following physical setup of your equipment, you must undertake several other steps before you begin collecting image data. First you must polar align your mount. This varies between different kit – with the Takahashi EM-200 mount, the polar scope is built into the mount. Use the user’s guide, which describes how to do the polar alignment – align the GE mount with Polaris. Using your software (Astroart simulators used and shown here), connect the camera, guide camera, filter wheel and…

Great astro images have a level of impact that goes above and beyond almost any other form of photography. Most of us retain a childlike wonder when it comes to the stars above us because we rarely get to see the full splendour of what’s out there. Our ancestors would have seen spectacular displays night after night, but now we only experience these from specific locations, far from the perils of light pollution. Let’s face it, the night sky is truly beautiful, and photographers are always keen to point their cameras at beauty. Over the next few pages, you’ll discover 50 outstanding tips to ensure that you’re able to get the best possible star trail, wide-field and deep-space images you’ve ever captured. 1 Know your location Before you even think…

Star trail photos are made up of hundreds (sometimes even thousands) of images taken across the course of a night. This tutorial will cover the shooting and editing process from start to finish. One small error can render eight hours of shooting worthless, so hopefully this tutorial will help you to avoid any such errors. The process for shooting a star trail image starts with shooting a single image during twilight to capture the shadow details in the foreground under the softest light possible. When the sky is completely dark we can start the process of shooting the hundreds of individual frames that will be later combined to create the star trails. Once the shooting is complete we’ll move onto editing in Photoshop to combine all the star images together.…

An analemma is a composite picture of usually the Sun, taken over the period of a year, which shows its shifting position in the sky as the seasons progress. It can take a year to create a picture like this, so as you can imagine, it takes some dedication. However, you can create the same effect with the Moon in just 29.5 days, if you’re lucky enough to have a month of clear night skies! The image gives you an extended figure of eight pattern and can make a very attractive picture. As with the Sun, an analemma only exists as an abstract idea and as a compilation of images within one photograph, and this is the only way to see it. The trick to creating a lunar analemma is…

Most people are familiar with the Pleiades star cluster. Its seven bright stars in a small group are instantly recognisable on a winter’s evening. But there are, in fact, many more than seven stars in the cluster. It is now thought that there may be over 1,000 stars associated with the group. Less well known is that there is also a nebula associated with the Pleiades. This is a faint reflection nebula that is difficult to see visually, but it shows up well in long-exposure astrophotographs. It was once thought that this nebulosity was the dust left over after the star formation, but it has now been realised that the cluster is just passing through a particularly dusty patch of the interstellar medium. The dust is reflecting the light of…

We are probably all familiar with total solar eclipses and perhaps less so with total lunar eclipses. The latter is when the Moon passes into the shadow cast by the Earth and so it grows dimmer from our view than usual. The Earth’s shadow, due to the way the light is blocked by our planet, falls into two parts. The darkest part of the shadow is called the umbra and therefore, when the Moon occasionally passes through this, we see a total lunar eclipse. However, unlike you would expect, the Moon does not go completely dark, but instead glows a deep orange colour due to some light being bent and passed through the Earth’s atmosphere. A penumbral eclipse however, is much harder to see, as this part of the Earth’s…

Astrophotography, like any genre of photography, has varied formats and different named techniques within each style. Some of the original terminology, such as ‘wide field’, has been lost through translation over the years, so let’s keep it simple and break it down into a few refined categories. Landscape astrophotography is basically defined as a landscape taken at night, enhancing the scene with a nightsky backdrop, typically consisting of a decisive cosmic focal point. Essentially, a nightscape, though it is now often referred to as wide-field astrophotography. Deep-space astrophotography refers to images of outer space, nebulae (groups of stars), nebula (gas and dust clouds), galaxies and other stellar and interstellar occurrences, which can be identified through telescopes – often using filters. A reasonable-quality beginner’s telescope is around £300, and will be…

While the Milky Way remains the numberone landscape astrophotography subject, seasoned nightscapers are always on the hunt for something a little more bespoke to complement their imagery. Photographers in the Southern Celestial Hemisphere are also blessed with a bonus – Magellanic Clouds, dwarf galaxies that orbit our own and render brightly within high-ISO photography. Planets can make excellent subjects, with the light from both Venus and Jupiter intense during rising and setting. Naturally the Moon makes for an excellent subject, both full and as a small crescent (waxing/waning), or tracked across the sky. Using a tracked mount can be very effective when combined with a known meteor shower; the prolonged exposure time enables several shooting stars to be captured within a single frame, whilst also keeping the stars sharp. There…

A tripod’s legs are there to carry the weight of your gear, while the head is there to give you flexibility and movement while you shoot. Essentially, the head does all the work, as you twist and turn it into the right position to line your camera up with the shot. The price range of heads can vary from the valuefor-money midrange offers to purpose-built but astronomically priced units. Heads will often match or even outprice tripod legs, and this is because they’re just as important in your gear list. When choosing a head take note of the panoramic rotation and lateral tilt. This is how far you can turn your camera while it is mounted and how far you can angle your lens up or down. Your choice of…

Darkness is disappearing. With light pollution on the increase as white LED streetlights spread across the globe, it’s increasingly difficult to see more than a few very bright stars if you’re in a city. Cue a network of places designated as having dark enough skies for stargazing and astronomy. The most extensive program is by the US-based IDA – the International Dark-Sky Association (www.darksky.org) – which runs a certification scheme that monitors light pollution, and has certified Dark Sky Parks (which recognise the world’s very darkest places) and Dark Sky Reserves (dedicated to preserving the quality of night skies) across the world. Dark Sky Reserves are rated on their darkness using a gold, silver or bronze badge. The IDA has also named three Dark Sky Sanctuaries, the rarest and most…

The Milky Way can be elusive to capture effectively. The best shots of it require the combination of a number of factors. You need to observe it at the right time of the year, on as clear a night as possible, with no Moon present. Even the thinnest of crescent Moons will cast too much light into the sky and wash out any detail in the Milky Way. Websites such as www.timeanddate.com will tell you when the Moon will be rising and setting in the town nearest to you. The best time of year to photograph the Milky Way is the early hours of summer mornings, but it can be observed from late winter to late autumn. The core of the Milky Way rises in the east during spring, south…

So far we’ve looked at astrophotography as a whole, explored essential kit and discussed wide-field astrophotography. The next natural step would be to venture into the vast expanse of deep space photography. It might seem unattainable and the spectacular imagery produced from deep space imaging can be daunting. The images you can produce are literally out of this world and like nothing else you would ever be able to capture on Earth. What deep space photography, also called astroimaging, offers is a personal glimpse into that mysterious realm outside of our sphere of life. It is difficult to imagine a hobby where you will be peering thousands, millions and tens of millions of years into the past – with a chance of discovering something never discovered before. But, that is…

About 12 million light years from Earth lies one of the most beautiful galaxies in the entire night sky. Bode’s Galaxy, also known as M81 or NGC 3031, can be found in the constellation of Ursa Major (The Great Bear) and shares its region of sky with another galaxy of completely different shape, known as the Cigar Galaxy, catalogued as M82. What makes Bode’s Galaxy outstanding is its glorious spiral arms. It is almost face on to us, so we get a very good view of the entire galaxy. The galaxy itself is interesting, as it is thought to contain a supermassive black hole at its centre. It is, without doubt, a very photogenic object in the night sky. It is therefore a very popular object for amateur astronomers and…

APPRENTICE NAME: GAV JENSEN CAMERA: NIKON D750 Gav is an IT project manager from Grimsby. He caught the photography bug from his dad, a keen film photographer and darkroom user. Gav bought a Nikon D40 and took a night class to hone his skills. He’s since upgraded to a D90 and D7000, and went full-frame 18 months ago with a D750. While he’s a confident all-rounder, his attempts at nightscape photography have been disappointing, so he came to N-Photo for help… THE PRO NAME: OLLIE TAYLOR CAMERA: NIKON D810 AND D610 Ollie Dorset-based Ollie is the UK’s most prolific photographer of nightscapes, having photographed the sky at night in all corners of the UK – and beyond, from Iceland and Finland to Greece. He originally trained as an architect but, after working semi-professionally for…

APPRENTICE NAME: THOMAS WINSTONE CAMERA: CANON EOS-1D X MK II THOMAS is a 39-year-old firefighter by day, and a keen amateur photographer by night. Originally from Hay-on-Wye, he now lives in Brynmawr in Wales. He enjoys all forms of photography including capturing night shots of flash-lit wildlife, and stormy landscape images. He also enjoys astrophotography, but needed our help to finesse his starry sky shots. THE PRO NAME: ALYN WALLACE CAMERA: CANON EOS 6D ALYN Wallace is an astrophotographer based near the Brecon Beacons in Wales. It was the Perseids meteor shower of 2015 that convinced Alyn to purchase his first DSLR, a Canon EOS 100D. He has studied physics, astronomy, and engineering, with photography providing a creative outlet to channel his technical abilities in an artistic manner. He now runs workshops across Wales…

Balancing the exposure triangle of ISO, aperture and shutter speed is a challenge for many photographers, but for those trying to photograph stars and the Milky Way it can be a real challenge to expose correctly while keeping captures pin-sharp. There are several tell-tale signs in night sky captures that you’re using the wrong exposure. Too short an exposure means that the Milky Way and stars won’t be prominent enough, the foreground won’t be visible, while the recovery of detail in post production will result in a noisier image. On the flip side, too long an exposure creates unintentional star trains that can ruin the impact of your shot. Thankfully, there are some tricks you can apply to ensure your exposures are spot on. One of the most popular techniques…

There is a huge amount of planning that goes into a productive Milky Way shoot. It starts with making sure the forecast is clear with no moon between April and September, when the Milky Way is visible in the Northern hemisphere. The other issue is light pollution, which can blot out large portions of the Milky Way and other stellar formations. Having found a dark spot, you want a good foreground: a good shot needs an earthbound anchor such as abandoned buildings, trees or water. We chose the stark angularity of Manstone Rock in Shropshire for this shot. My Sky Guide app (www.fifthstarlabs.com) showed that the galactic core would be visible after 11.30pm and almost rising due south. 01 SET UP Get on site in plenty of time, with a…

Beautiful Venus is regularly observed in the morning or evening sky as a bright ‘star’. Through binoculars or a telescope, or even sometimes with the naked eye if you have exceptional eyesight, you can see that it shows as a phase, much like our own Moon. However, unlike the Moon, you never get to see it as a full phase, as when it is fully illuminated, it is the other side of the Sun and therefore invisible to us. Likewise, we can’t see it in the ‘new’ position, as it’s between Earth and the Sun. However, it is possible to spot it as a very thin crescent, but due to it being very close to the Sun, extreme care must be taken. It is possible to record on camera the…

The planet Uranus holds a fascination for us. This frozen remote world has a very acute axial tilt and we can see this by observing its equatorial belts. In the past, it took deep space probes and vast resources to make discoveries about the outer planets of our Solar System, but with modern technology it is possible for advanced amateur astronomers to image these vastly distant planets and produce reasonably detailed pictures of them. If you hope to try this for yourself, you’re going to need a large aperture telescope – 250mm aperture at minimum, although 300mm to 400mm is preferable. Uranus is small and faint and so a much larger aperture is needed to have any hope of gathering enough light from this seemingly tiny and distant world. You’ll…

You may find yourself outdoors looking up at a cloudless night’s sky, so you prepare for what could be a great night shooting. But, as luck would have it, your view is being hampered by a hazy atmosphere or surrounding lights from neighbouring buildings or street lamps. Putting all these obstacles aside, the good news is that Lightroom CC has an adjustment that will solve all your astrophotography woes. Called Dehaze, it does just that. By reducing the amount of haze that appears in the atmosphere, details in the sky and surrounding areas can appear much more defined and contrast is bumped up to reduce the intruding light sources. This just so happens to be the perfect solution for fixing astro shots that lack detail in what is a captivating…