Here in the mid-Atlantic, autumn is the peak season for wild-mushroom enthusiasts. Yes, springtime brings morels, and summer is the moment for golden chanterelles, but fall is when the mushroom vendor at our farmers market sells the widest range of foraged treasures: matsutake, lobster, chicken-of-the-woods, cauliflower, black trumpet, and, on the rare occasion, porcini. I’m crazy about them all, and I’ll roast them, sauté them, pickle them, feature them in soups, pastas, omelets, and risottos. Not long ago, I even elevated a humble chicken casserole by using lobster mushrooms along with a cream-of-mushroom soup base made with matsutakes. Overkill? Almost certainly.
By the time I turned to the proofs of Michael Autrey’s essay in this issue—about the serious business of mushroom foraging— I had pretty much cycled through my repertoire…