I FIND COCKS’ HEADS UNREWARDing, though in Ávila, at the hour of the apéritif, men suck and crunch them whole — beaks, eyes, coxcombs — and spit out the bones with no pretence at decorum. Extremities of edible quadrupeds — ears, cheeks, ox tongues and tails, cow heels, trotters — are much more tempting and typically delicious, without offending sticklers for etiquette. They have the allure of diminishing accessibility: hard to sell in the Anglophone world and, therefore, hard to buy.
Even in lands where denizens appreciate offal, some arcane organs are becoming almost unobtainable. On an afternoon of slanting sun a few years ago, at a rickety table under the blank bulk of the cathedral of Palencia, the waiter proudly told me that criadillas were available.
“These are really…
