My knowledge of Rwanda, a tiny, landlocked, heavily populated country of 26,338 square kilometres in the heart of Africa was, at best, limited to what I had gleaned from two films: Hotel Rwanda, about the genocide of 1994; and Gorillas in the Mist, the story of conservationist Dian Fossey and her eventual murder in 1985, presumably at the hand of vengeful poachers – a crime that remains unsolved to this day. In short, this had left me with no real desire to visit the country.
I had safaried on the Tanzanian side of the Kagera river, which forms a natural border with Rwanda, and we had employed Rwandan exiles as safari trackers and camp staff in our hunting concession of Luganzo in western Tanzania. They had told of the terrible…
