Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2024 i The Great Outdoors

Inspired by the blackbird, Nadia is fighting for nature connection unbound by lines on a map IN NADIA SHAIKH’S ideal world, nature would be our default setting. The outdoors would not be a space simply “reduced to recreational use”. Here, true agency isn’t “following lines on maps”. It’s having enough curiosity to “follow the call of a blackbird or the path of a butterfly” and to care for our environment. Curiosity is how it began for Nadia growing up in Jarrow, Tyne and Wear. On trips to seaside funfairs, she could be found “poking around” in tiny things: moss on a brick wall; midge larvae in stagnant water. Now 37 and living on the Isle of Bute, she says this hasn’t changed. But after almost two decades in nature conservation…

Another story says that the daughter of a ruling nobleman tried to seduce Brynach with a love potion made from wolfs-bane, but he fled from her advances. She then sent men to capture and kill him. He was wounded and cured at a sacred fountain called the Red Spring… His ‘Life’ says that he travelled to Rome to see the shrines of Peter and Paul. In Pembroke he was met by ‘propositioning’ women and by assassins engaged in a purge of Irish settlers… St Brynach was said to talk to angels on the prehistoric hill fort that tops nearby Carn Ingli (‘rock of angels’). The hill was thus called in medieval times ‘Mons Angelorum’. The Book of Welsh Saints, TD Breverton (Glyndwr Publishing, 2000) ITS NAME MEANS ‘Hill of Angels’,…

1. Mine old guidebooks Social media is the modern walker’s way to get route recommendations, but don’t dismiss old-fashioned guidebooks just yet. Many are written by in-the-know locals and showcase walks with less Instagram appeal but just as much character. Wainwright’s walking guides are still classics. 2. Ask the locals Another old-fashioned way to get good advice. Connect with social media-savvy hillwalkers living in the areas you want to visit and trade tips online, join a mountaineering club, or consider employing a local guide. 3. Use apps for inspo Apps such as AllTrails and komoot are great places to find inspiration. Pick an area, then look for routes with lower popularity ratings. This approach works well if you’re searching for a crowd-free way to a sought after summit. 4. Skill…

AT THE BEGINNING of October 2022, I set out to hike the edge of Great Britain alone. On my way, people often asked me: do I get lonely, and how do I cope with that? They often told me they dreamed of going on a big walk themselves but were afraid of being alone. The idea to walk the mainland coast came after hiking around Anglesey years earlier. Looking on Google Maps for other long walks, I zoomed out and out and out from Anglesey until it was dwarfed by the mainland. I grew up on the mainland yet knew nothing about its coastline, and what better way to experience it as I had done Anglesey – in one continuous effort on foot. It would free up time to focus…

Montane Solution GREENER CHOICE £250 469g (M, on own scales) excellent environmental credentials breathability sometimes an issue, no rear hood adjuster Materials: solution-dyed Pertex Shield Revolve, PFC-free DWR Hood: stiffened, with 2 volume adjusters Front closure: 1 way zip, storm flap Underarm/side zips: none Pockets: 2 handwarmer, 2-way zips Hem: 2 drawcord Cuffs: Velcro Sizes: S-XXXL Women’s version: yes montane.com David Lintern has been putting the new Montane Solution jacket through its paces for months The headline news with the Montane Solution is the use of Pertex Revolve (100% face fabric, 100% of the backer and 75% of the membrane), with a fluorocarbon-free DWR. The fabric is solution-dyed. Adjusters and zips feature recycled tape. The result is a jacket mostly made of recycled material, using 50% less water in production.…

37.4km/23.2 miles/2 days Ascent 1598m/5243ft Alex Roddie finds that Beinn a’ Ghlo makes a great overnight trip DRIVING NORTH along the A9 from Perth, the first big peak to really grab your attention is Carn Liath, the shapely southern bastion of the Beinn a’ Ghlo massif. This varied mountain range forms the eastern wall of Glen Tilt, a deep and largely arrow-straight glacial trough extending deep into the Cairngorms. Those hiking the three Munros of Beinn a’ Ghlo in a day usually descend heathery slopes to the east; but the option described here, descending north and then taking a leisurely stroll back through Glen Tilt to Blair Atholl, is a longer yet better route – and it’s ideal if you’re looking for two shortish days with a high camp in between.…

8.9km/5.5 miles/3.5 hours Ascent 700m/2300ft Great Gable’s name will quicken the pulse, promises Norman Hadley LAKELAND’S seventh highest summit throws unmistakeable but completely different profiles to the points of the compass. From the south-west it presents the beautiful diamond that’s emblematic of the National Park Authority. From Kirk Fell, it appears as a twisted cylindrical tower, as if a cake has slightly melted in a shop window. From the north, it shows as a supercilious eyebrow raised in disdain for the puny mortal aiming to climb it. You may be mortal but you are far from puny, so climb it you must. This route scores over the usual Wasdale Head and Seathwaite approaches in several regards: it is generally quieter, wheeled transport will hoist you to 350 metres, it is…

31.8km/19.8 miles/9 hours Ascent 865m/2834ft Ian Battersby is transfixed by nature on hallowed ground THE WHITE PEAK of the Peak District National Park is rightly popular, with outdoor offerings within easy reach of numerous towns and cities. Almighty scenes abound. The River Dove is hemmed in by walls with limestone buttresses, spires and towers soaring to the heavens, whilst caves make naves in the heart of the land. Weirs calm eager currents into reflective pools where ripples from rising trout and bowing waterfowl fail to unsettle the meditations of herons. High in the sky ravens, buzzards and falcons are tuned in too. The landform is so blessed that all these sights are on everyone’s path, but perhaps the greatest and rarest reward comes in the sapphire flash of a kingfisher…

29.6km/18.4 miles/9.5-10 hours Ascent 1460m/4790ft* Fiona Barltrop enjoys a very well-earned West Country sunset THE STRETCH of coastline between Tintagel and Polzeath is one of the most strenuous day walks to be had along the South West Coast Path, but it’s a superb one with some dramatic cliff scenery. The logistics are also a bit of a challenge! If you have a car it’s always best to park at the end and take the bus to the start, but there’s only a direct bus linking the two ends on a Sunday. There are, however, regular bus services between Polzeath and Port Isaac, the halfway point (both very popular), the bus continuing to Camelford. A good alternative to starting from Tintagel is to alight at Westdowns along the way; from here…

Sarah Hewitt is a photographer living in Kendal on the edge of the Lake District. She loves to tell the stories of interesting people and unique places through her images, especially her travel photography. She has recently travelled to Mexico and Arizona in a bid to escape the British winter and to seek out new stories to tell, and she plans to return to her favourite country – Sweden – this summer. In this issue, she treks the Himalayan Manaslu Tsum Valley Trek (p48). Hanna Lindon is a freelance journalist who’s written about all things ‘mountain’ for 15 years. The highlight of her winter has been walking the South Downs Way with her 7-year-old daughter to raise money for the local Rivers Trust (they managed 100 miles in 10 days, and…

Published by gestalten, £40, hardback THE NEW OFFERING in gestalten’s Wanderlust series is a guidebook to make the eyes widen and the soul sing with possibility. Indeed, it is not simply a guidebook. Alex Roddie showcases Britain’s long-distance walks at their finest with superb photography from local experts, and this book is just as at home on a coffee table as in your wildest adventure-plotting dreams. Whether you’re new to long-distance walking and seeking guidance, or a seasoned walker lacking inspiration, this book has a trail to suit you. Its pages are packed with trails, from the ‘jewel in the crown of Assynt’ in the Scottish Highlands to a beloved but challenging walk along the south coast of England, made famous by fossil hunters and moving memoirs. Follow the advice…

Time: 385 days (313 hiking days and 72 rest days) Distance: 10,621km / 6592 miles Ascent: 170,799m / 560,364ft Longest day – 54 miles for Summer Solstice 24 Hour Fundraiser Three Peaks climbed as additional fundraiser 6 pairs of shoes 2 tents 2 rucksacks 2 monarchs 2 Prime Ministers 167 nights camped in a tent £21,350 raised for Mind James' favourite kit NORDISK TELEMARK LW 2.0 At under 1kg, this Telemark tent survived 10 months of harsh treatment, although it can suffer from condensation in still conditions. PETZL TIKKA R+ HEAD TORCH Another long-term performer, with a powerful light and rechargeable battery. JETBOIL STOVE James’ Jetboil is 8 years old and has taken a beating, including being accidentally melted and submerged in sea water. He says, “it’s perfect for boiling…

Fit Try boots in the shop. Vital areas to check are your heels for movement, the toes for contact with the toebox and under the laces for pressure. Wearing at home for a little while is also a good test and makes returns and exchanges possible. Upper The feel and durability of the boot can largely depend on what materials are used in the main body. Leather and suede have different grades that will affect weight and flexibility, plus they can be treated and reproofed to add longevity to your boots. Fabric uppers are light and require little or no breaking in; but when the waterproof membrane fails, they’ll be next to impossible to make waterproof again. Waterproofing Leather and suede have natural water resistance that can be enhanced by…

26.5km/16.5 miles/1-2 days Ascent 1668m/5472ft Alex Roddie explores a trio of Tyndrum peaks via a wild camp THE CHARISMATIC Ben Lui is surrounded by peaks that tend to end up being overshadowed by their showier, better-known neighbour. In joining several of them together to make two easy days with a wild camp in between, you gain the opportunity to see a new side to Ben Lui and appreciate the subtler charms of nearby Ben Oss and Beinn Dubhchraig. At around 26km in length, this route is well within the realms of possibility for a one-day walk. However, there’s a lot of ascent as well as plenty of steep, rough ground, making it a big day. It lends itself well to a short backpacking route split with a wild camp in…

14.3km/8.9 miles/4.5 hours Ascent 900m/2950ft Norman Hadley heads up a mountain that’s second to none OK, TECHNICALLY it’s the silver medallist of Lakeland, but only by 14 metres. And it wins over its more famous neighbour in several important respects. For starters, Scafell Pike’s parent fell has the prior claim to the name. It has the more impressive crags, on both the Hollowstones and Great Moss flanks, either of which could be contenders for the finest mountainside England has to offer. Sca Fell has the more commodious summit for camping, offering a significantly softer, grassier bed than the Pike’s austere, splinter-stony wastes. Being a little further to the west, Sca Fell has the better prospect over the sea: an important factor in the choice of a sunset expedition. And, last…

17.3km/10.7 miles/6 hours Ascent 772m/2533ft Andrew Galloway visits a secluded valley where disaster once struck WITH AN ABOVE-AVERAGE annual rainfall, the valleys of Eryri/Snowdonia were an attractive proposition for the burgeoning hydroelectric and aluminium smelting industries of the early 20th Century. In 1907 the Aluminium Corporation Limited (ACL) set up shop in the Conwy Valley close to Dolgarrog, constructing a concrete dam almost 1km in length along the eastern shore of Llyn Eigiau, 370m above the village. The reservoir was designed to hold up to four million cubic metres of water, released through sluice gates to ensure a constant supply to the aluminium smelting plant and its associated power station. However, on the night of 2 November 1925, following days of heavy rain, disaster struck. The Llyn Eigiau dam was…

RING OUZELS VISIT THE CRAGS, gullies and steep valleys of our uplands over spring and summer, and you may spot the ring ouzel (Turdus torquatus), a migratory member of the thrush family that returns to Britain each year after wintering in Spain or north-west Africa. Here, they nest at high altitudes from mid-April to mid-July in heathery vegetation or crevices, the female crafting this home for two broods from plant matter and mud. They return to the same spot each year where the male sings from prominent crags and boulders, claiming a territory with pleasant, simple song calls. Once dubbed the fell or mountain blackbird, the ring ouzel is in fact smaller than a blackbird despite its longer tail. The male dresses to impress with a white crescent across its…

IT’S A BIT GRIM out there, isn’t it? And I don’t mean the weather. I mean the world. I sometimes wonder if banging on about access to nature and green spaces is a bit of a luxury in the face of genocide, famine, terrorism and climate catastrophe. But then I look to history. In 1935 writer and walker Tom Stephenson wrote an article for the Daily Herald responding to a letter the paper received from two American youngsters who wanted advice on planning a ‘tramping’ holiday. Ah, those heady pre-Internet days! Stephenson didn’t know what to say. He was mortified to think of these young adventurers confronted by thousands of ‘Strictly Private’ and ‘Trespassers Will Be Prosecuted’ signs around the woods, moors and downland they might want to explore. Stephenson’s…

Distance: 83km/51 miles Ascent: 2783m/9130ft Time: 6-7 days David and friends planned a week on the island, expanding on Peter Edwards’ guides to the island in his various books for Cicerone, including Scottish Wild Country Backpacking, co-written with David and Stefan Durkacz. Peter, and the stats above, tell of the challenging terrain. Getting there All ferries run from the Kintyre Peninsula. Citylink buses connect Glasgow to Kintyre: citylink.co.uk A common way to visit is whilst staying on Islay, by ferry from Kennacraig on the mainland: calmac.co.uk Walkers, backpackers and cyclists focusing on Jura can use the Jura Passenger Ferry, from Tayvalich to Craighouse: jurapassengerferry.com Getting around Bus 456 runs between Port Feolin and Inverlussa (via Craighouse and Lagg): garelochheadcoaches.co.uk Due to bus and ferry timings, a taxi can be a…

MOPEDS weave at high speed amongst taxis, cows amble oblivious through the throng, and everywhere there is smog and people clearing their throats. A realisation dawns: I’m not sure I’m prepared for this. Booking a trip to the Nepalese Himalayas had seemed like a great idea a few months ago, cosy by the pub fire with pint in hand. Charlotte had been to Nepal before and seemed so confident, but for me it was a step into a new world, a new continent. My senses were being assaulted from every direction. DUMPLINGS AND BEER Based in Kathmandu’s Thamel district for a few days, we combined eating momos (Tibetan dumplings) and drinking local beer with making plans. With recommendations for a trekking company in hand, we decided on the Manaslu Circuit…

Gear News Jack Wolfskin creates 3D printed pack Jack Wolfskin’s new 3D Prelight Rise 35 pack has back padding made from fine-grained plastic layered in a 3D printing process. This ground-breaking innovation results in an open cell structure that is strong and weight bearing, and perfectly maps the torso. Its many pores allow air to circulate efficiently to prevent a sweaty back. At the contact points between the pack and body the padding materials’ gauge and density are precisely customised for better comfort and air circulation. The 3D printing process reduces production waste to an absolute minimum. The pack body uses recycled ripstop fabrics, with heavier material on the front and base for better abrasion resistance. The 960g pack has a capacity of 35 litres, a roll top, a waterproof…

Capacity Check all your gear will fit inside, and take stated capacity as approximate only. Where two figures are given, the first is usually the key one; the second often refers to the inner extended as far up as it will go, which can make for an unstable load. Weight A rough rule of thumb is that the empty pack shouldn’t weigh much more than 10% of the total weight you’ll be carrying. This includes food and water, not just gear. Back length The pack must be the correct length for your torso. Trying on a loaded pack is the best way to check this. Back system A pack for heavy loads should have a fairly stiff frame to help transfer the load to your hips. Padding or mesh that…

10 varied routes in Scotland, England and Wales With bustling weekend summits collecting headlines, it can sometimes feel as though solitude is tough to find on our compact island. But there’s room for everyone in these hills. Those who want a little peace and quiet may just have to get creative with their timings. After all, there are few simpler pleasures than watching the sun rise and fall in big skies you feel like you can touch from our mountaintops. Here are 10 routes for which it’s worth setting an early alarm or charging your head torch and staying out until after dark. They offer the perfect excuse to sleep under the stars, too. Our walks this month 1 Beinn a’ Ghlo Cairngorms 2 Ben Lui & Ben Oss South…

13.2km/8.2 miles/5 hours Ascent 843m/2765ft Vivienne Crow climbs a fell perfectly placed for a Lakeland sunrise A FEW YEARS AGO, I watched, from the top of Blencathra, as the sun rose from behind the Pennines and flooded the world around me with a fresh, cleansing light. The moon was there too, still sitting high in the sky above the fells to the south-west, which had turned pink in the dawn glow. It was part of a midsummer night walk that’d also included sunset from Skiddaw. I’d picked those summits for good reason – lying, as they do, close to the Lake District’s north-western and north-eastern edges – and I concluded that I’d chosen well. For the walk described here though, there’s no need to climb Skiddaw or to walk through…

15.7km/9.8 miles/5 hours Ascent 489m/1604ft Francesca Donovan wanders along westerly-facing Derbyshire edges AS ONLY the seventh-highest peak in our first National Park, Shining Tor (559m) may get overlooked. But with a prominence of 263m – in the Peak District second only to Kinder Scout – it’s a fine place to settle down for a sunset, especially if you’re in the business of bagging Marilyns and trigs. Right on the edge of the Peak, a peaty ascent will be rewarded with views of nearby Shutlingsloe – the ‘Cheshire Matterhorn’ – as well as the Jodrell Bank telescope sitting low in the Cheshire Plain and, beyond the Manchester skyline, Winter Hill. Always Shining by name if not always by nature, here you can watch the sun sink in the west on a…

21km/13 miles/6.5 hours Ascent 725m/2379ft Ian Battersby likes life on the edge of a little-known stack of contours WHY WAUN RYDD? The Beacons Way gives it a miss, and even OS mapping can’t seem to give it, or its edges, horizontal labelling. It’s a half-hearted job, but why? We’re talking reasonable height here at 769m, amongst its neighbouring western giants, and it forms a peculiar plateau rather than having the stuck-up nature of those other wannabe ‘beacons’. The map shows contours compressing as they rise on flanks giving it an edge, a lip, a brink – and not just over the drink of Talybont; it’s a continuous edge aimed at all-embracing views. Take a look at the rim from across Talybont Reservoir and you have to be drawn to this…