Indholdsfortegnelse for Issue 116 i The Knitter

Many of us are looking ahead to the festive season, and planning what gifts we’d like to make for our loved ones. We’ve filled this issue with small projects that will be fun to knit and should be gratefully received! From thoroughly modern designs, such as our sumptuous brioche wrap, to traditional Fair Isle and Estonian lace, we have lots to tempt you. We also have warm and cosy garments to knit for men and women. HAPPY KNITTING! from The Knitter team…

TWEED LUXE Among Rowan’s new yarns for autumn-winter is Cashmere Tweed, a DK-weight mix of extra-fine merino wool and cashmere. It comes in eight sophisticated, tweedy shades, and will be ideal for knitting smart garments. Showcasing the yarn is a new collection of patterns designed by Martin Storey, called Cashmere Tweed. He has taken inspiration from modern Scandinavian and Icelandic styles for the seven women’s projects. These include ‘Mackintosh’, which is a fitted jumper combining stripes and an architectural colourwork pattern. ‘Brekan’ is a relaxed cowl-neck sweater with short sleeves, designed for winter layering, while ‘Carron’ is an oversized, open cardigan with a deep shawl collar. Cable details adorn the ‘Braid’ colourblock jumper, and modern Fair Isle brightens the ‘Wilkie’ hat and scarf set. Available as a printed book or…

Each season, Debbie Bliss impresses us with her lovely designs that incorporate classic and modern elements, and this autumn-winter is no exception. Her newest pattern book is Iris, and it uses Debbie’s yarn of the same name from her Pure Bliss range. This is a luxurious aran-weight blend of superfine merino wool and cashmere, which knits up into a soft, lightweight yet warm fabric. The 10 designs in Iris offer an appealing blend of comfort and understated elegance. Cables play a starring role, and appear on a dropped-sleeve sweater, a feminine cropped jumper, and a beautiful sleeveless cowl-neck top, which has a chain-link design around the yoke. Thick sideways-knit cables also make an impact on a short-sleeved jumper design. Panels of moss stitch and textured rib add interest to a…

SIZE 300cm x 55cm (118in x 21_in), after blocking YARN Rowan Felted Tweed (DK weight; 50% wool, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose; 175m/191yds per 50g ball) A Seasalter (178); 1 x 50g ball B Peony (183); 2 x50g balls C Avocado (161); 2 x50g balls D Maritime (167); 1 x 50g ball E Bilberry (151); 3 x50g balls F Mineral (181); 2 x50g balls G Ginger (154); 2 x50g balls H Watery (152); 1 x 50g ball I Rage (150); 1 x 50g ball J Pine (158); 1 x 50g ball NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 4.5mm (UK 7/US 7) circular needles, 80cm long Stitch markers (optional for syncopated sections) 2 locking stitch markers TENSION 13 sts and 18 rows to 10cm over Brioche st on 4.5mm needles YARN STOCKISTS Rowan 01484 950630…

SIZE Hat Actual circumference: 50_cm (20in) Depth: (cast-on to crown): 23cm (9in) Cowl Circumference: 63cm (25in) Depth: 14cm (5_in) Mittens Circumference: 22cm (8_in) Length: 29cm(11_in) YARN The Border Mill Alpaca Tweed (Heavy DK/ worsted weight; 100% alpaca; 190m/208yds per 100g skein) A Mallard; 1 x 100g skein B Peacock; 1 x 100g skein C Golden Pear; 1 x 100g skein Yarn quantities given will make all 3 projects. Note An extra skein each of yarns A and C may be required, as there was very little of these colours left when our samples were knitted. NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 4mm (UK 8/US 6) circular needles, 40cm long 1 set 4mm (UK 8/US 6) double-pointed needles (DPNS) 4.5mm (UK 7/US 7) circular needles, 40cm long 1 set 4.5mm (UK 8/US 6) double-pointed…

THE TERM ‘steek’ refers to a set of techniques used in preparation of cutting a knitted fabric. These techniques can involve knitting, sewing, knotting or crochet to reinforce the edge to be cut. Steeking is typically used in Fair Isle knitting, when the fabric has been worked in the round. Steeks are used to create openings in the tube of fabric, such as for armholes, necklines, or the front openings of cardigans and jackets. FUNDAMENTALS A garment is knitted in the round to the shoulders, with extra columns of stitches (steeks) added at the front (for cardigans/ jackets), at the neck, and at the armholes. For cardigans, a steek can be introduced either after the lower ribbed hem, or right from the start. The number of stitches in the pattern…

“I’VE ALWAYS been fascinated by construction and the various ways one can arrive at something that resembles a ‘normal’ sock,” says designer General Hogbuffer (aka Holger Auffenberg). “This design plays with knitting in different directions in a combination of working in rows and rounds. Thankfully, there are no long seams or grafting because the parts are joined as they’re worked. The stripes highlight the construction method, but you could achieve a similar effect by omitting the stripes and working the entire sock in a long gradient or self-striping yarn.” SIZE YARN Schoppel Wolle Zauberball Crazy (4ply weight; 75% superwash wool, 25% nylon; 422m/461yds per 100g ball) Herbstwind (1507); 1 x 100g ball NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 2 sets of 2.5mm (UK 13-12/US 1-2) circular needles, 60cm long 1 set 2.5mm (UK…

SOFT, WARM and colourful, these gloves will be entertaining to knit. They feature a stranded colourwork pattern inspired by Scandinavian forests, and Latvian braids around the wrists worked in the same colours. The cuffs have a picot edging and folded hem for a neat finish. Caroline Birkett’s design is knitted in Wensleydale Gems, a pure wool from West Yorkshire Spinners that comes in 20 lustrous, jewel-like colours. GLOVE (work both the same) CUFF Using 3.25mm DPNs and yarn A, cast on 48 sts. Pm and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Work 3 rounds in st st (K every round). Next round: (Yo, K2tog) to end of round. Work 4 rounds in st st. Next round: Fold up hemmed edge to the WS of…

NOW BASED in Somerset, American-born designer Mary Henderson has a passion for Fair Isle knitting and Shetland lace, and has become one of The Knitter’s most popular designers thanks to her intricate patterns in beautiful colourways. Who inspired you to take up knitting? “It’s not so much who, as what: when I was eight, I saw a Fair Isle jumper in one of my mum’s magazines – this was in the States in the 1960s. I remember thinking, ‘I want to make that’. Mom showed me how to cast on, but she wasn’t interested in knitting (sewing was her thing). That summer, my Aunt Eleanor came to visit and showed me how to purl and cast off. I have been knitting ever since.” Do you have a favourite artist, writer,…

Mary Henderson Mary has a passion for Fair Isle knitting, and has won a firm following thanks to intricate designs and her talent for colour combining. This month, she brings us a sweet Fair Isle set of hat, cowl and mittens on page 39. Mary also gives us her expert advice on steeking, in her Masterclass on page 52. Eline Oftedal From her home in Norway, Eline creates Scandinavianinspired knitwear with a modern flavour. Her patterns have been published in Vogue Knitting and Interweave Knits. For our gifts issue, Eline has designed a lacy neckwarmer that’s pretty and cosy. Turn to page 56 for the pattern. Dario Tubiana Italian designer Dario loves to play with colour, construction and brioche to create sweaters and accessories that will bring a smile to…

Designer Woolly Wormhead has turned the world of hats on its head again with this collection of sideways-knitted projects. You’ll be intrigued and entertained by her five new designs using short-row colourwork. Inspired by the film The Last Airbender, Woolly has ‘bended’ yarn to create stunning fabric effects. ‘Toph’ is decorated with organic forms gently growing from the brim towards the crown, and ‘Azula’ has flame-like patterns created using short rows and garter stitch intarsia. ‘Katara’ is a gently rippled design, mimicking the motion of water, while ‘Opal’ and ‘Korra’ feature softly sculptural lines. Each pattern is presented as a ‘panel map’, or directional chart, to guide you through the short rows and colourwork. The book includes detailed photographic tutorials to help you work through all the designs. £10 as…

When I interviewed designer Amanda Jones for a recent issue of The Knitter, she waxed lyrical about Opus, the new 4ply from Walcot Yarns. I went online to find out more, and was impressed by the range of patterns created to showcase the yarn - probably because they’re all in grey, my favourite colour! I decided to make ‘Cobbled Streets’, an asymmetric shawl by Sharon Spencer which incorporates blocks of 14 different textured stitch patterns. Much as I love the look of Opus, I’m on a mission at the moment to use up my stash, so I’m knitting my shawl in Lang Jawoll sock yarn. I’m really enjoying seeing how the different textures are evolving, and the Jawoll yarn is giving excellent stitch definition. The pattern costs £3.95 from www.walcotyarns.com…

OUR COSY throw is a matching item for the cushion pattern we printed in Issue 113. It is worked in five sections, each featuring a different stripe pattern; these are then sewn together and finished with a garter stitch edging. It uses Scheepjes Merino Soft, a blend of merino wool, microfibre and acrylic. This is machine-washable, and comes in a huge choice of shades. THROW STRIPE 1 Using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, cast on 36 sts. Work 4 rows in garter st. Change to yarn B. Work 4 rows in garter st. Change to 4mm needles and yarn C. Work 4 rows in st st. Change to yarn A. Work 4 rows in st st. Change to yarn B. Work 4 rows in st st Change to yarn C.…

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 4mm (UK 8/US 6) knitting needles 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, 60cm long Cable needle (cn) Stitch marker Stitch holders TENSION 30½ sts and 30 rows to 10cm over Chart pattern on 4mm needles. 22½ sts and 30 rows to 10cm over st st on 4mm needles. 29½ sts and 35 rows to 10cm over K8, P2 rib on 3.25mm needles. YARN STOCKISTS John Arbon Textiles 01598 752490 www.jarbon.com SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS C4B: Slip next 2 sts onto cn and leave at back, K2, then K2 from cn. C4F: Slip next 2 sts onto cn and leave at front, K2, then K2 from cn. For general abbreviations, see p81 KEY BLOCKING DIAGRAM CHARTS “AT WINCHESTER Cathedral there is much stunning medieval Gothic architecture, characterised by…

MUG HUG Using 3mm DPNs and yarn D, cast on 67 sts (60 sts + 7 steek sts). Divide sts over 3 needles as follows: Needle 1: 7 steek sts, pm, 12 pattern sts, Needle 2: 24 pattern sts, Needle 3: 24 pattern sts. Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts. Begin working the charts; each round begins from the right-hand side of the chart. The steek chart will be worked once and the Mug Hug chart worked 5 times to the end of the round. Remember to keep the steek sts in tramlines throughout, lining up the light and dark sts to create a straight cutting line. Work to Round 24 of Charts. Cast off all sts knitwise. ENFORCING AND CUTTING THE…

Deborah Helmke Chiltern DEBORAH HELMKE’S lightweight poncho design offers an elegant way to add warmth to your outfit. It’s formed from two rectangular pieces, sewn together to create a hole for your head and one arm. It features a simple yet architectural chevron lace pattern, which looks lovely worked in this variegated sock yarn from Malabrigo. SIZE YARN Malabrigo Sock (Light 4ply weight; 100% wool; 402m/440yds per 100g skein) Ivy (138); 3 (4:4) x 100g skeins NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 2.75mm (UK 12/US 2) knitting needles Tapestry needle Stitch markers TENSION 34 sts and 40 rows to 10cm over Chevron patterns A and B on 2.75mm needles YARN STOCKISTS Malabrigo c/o Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk For general abbreviations, see p81 BLOCKING DIAGRAM CHARTS STITCH PATTERNS CHEVRON CHART A…

THIS VERSATILE cardigan by Martin Storey looks as good paired with a shirt and tie as it does worn over a T-shirt. It has been designed with raglan sleeves and a large amount of positive ease, and has patch pockets. The bands and small shawl collar are worked in garter stitch, with short rows being used to shape the collar. Martin has used Rowan’s classic Felted Tweed DK yarn for his design; this perennial favourite comes in a choice of 31 attractive shades. NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles 1 pair 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) knitting needles 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, at least 100cm long 5 buttons Stitch holders TENSION 24 sts and 32 rows to 10cm over st st using 3.75mm needles…

SARAH HATTON’S pretty winter jumper was inspired by sweaters from the 1950s and ’60s. It has a high round neckline, and features lacy panels around the top of the body and extending three-quarters of the way down the sleeves. The diamond stitch pattern includes wrapped cluster stitches. Debbie Bliss’s Fine Donegal 4ply yarn has a lovely softness thanks to its cashmere content, and knits up into an attractive tweedy fabric. CHART PATTERN (written instructions) Row 1 (RS): K3, K2tog, *yo, K1, yo, skpo, K5, K2tog; rep from * as stated in pattern, yo, K1, yo, skpo, K3. Row 2 and every foll alt row: Purl. Row 3: K2, K2tog, yo, *K3, yo, skpo, K3, K2tog, yo; rep from * as stated in pattern, K3, yo, skpo, K2. Row 5: K1,…

GRADIENT KNITS Tanis Gray This fun book is aimed at improving knitters, and offers advice and inspiration on working with gradient yarns in different ways, such as slip stitch patterns, Fair Isle, lace and texture. Each ‘lesson’ gives an overview of a specific technique, then offers a simple pattern to try - these range from scarves and cowls to socks, mittens and a lacy shawl. £12.99, Search Press HYGGE STYLE KNITTING Interweave Editors Fill your wardrobe with cosy knits for winter with this delightful pattern book! The nine projects include a snug cowl in alpaca yarn by Katya Frankel, a modern intarsia blanket, pretty slippers for women and girls, and a luxurious cowl-neck sweater. Cocoon yourself in an oversized cardigan with a stunning cable panel by Courtney Spainhower, and treat…

17 October Bovey Tracey Continental Knitting with Anniken Allis www.spinayarndevon.co.uk 01626 836203 18 October Cleethorpes Mitred Squares www.agoodyarn.co.uk 01472 508707 19 October Bridport Brioche Stitch www.bridportyarn.co.uk 01308 455669 20 October Warrington Basics of Pattern Writing www.blacksheepwools.com 01925 764231 20 October Bovey Tracey Brioche Knitting www.spinayarndevon.co.uk 01626 836203 21 Oct Wooler, Northumberland Shetland Lace Knitting www.sheeptales.org.uk 21 October Ipswich Cast On, Cast Off www.jennywrensyarns.co.uk 01473 805208 22 October Cleethorpes Picking Up Stitches Clinic www.agoodyarn.co.uk 01472 508707 24 October Bovey Tracey Top-Down Raglan Sweater with Anniken Allis www.spinayarndevon.co.uk 01626 836203 28 October Falkirk Finishing Techniques with Carol Meldrum www.mcadirect.com 0131 558 1747 28 October Saffron Walden Intarsia and Duplicate Stitch www.craft-days.co.uk 01799 218429 28-29 October Leicester The Big Textile Show www.thebigtextileshow.co.uk 07885 473057 31 October London Extreme Colour with Liz Baltesz www.wildandwoollyshop.co.uk…

THIS SHOULDER bag is created from one piece of striped knitting, sewn together and then felted to create a dense fabric. The long shoulder strap is looped through a short strap to close the bag. It’s knitted in an aran-weight Icelandic wool from Lopi. BAG BASE The body of the bag is worked in one piece, from the base upwards. Using 5mm DPNs and yarn A, cast on 8 sts using the disappearing loop method (see http://bit.ly/circularcaston for a tutorial). Pm and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Round 1 and all odd rounds: Knit. Round 2: KFB to end. 16 sts. Round 4: (K1, KFB) to end. 24 sts. Round 6: (K2, KFB) to end. 32 sts. Round 8: (K3, KFB) to end.…

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 4mm (UK 8/US 6) knitting needles 2 stitch holders 4 buttons Tapestry needle TENSION 29 sts and 24 rows to 10cm over Star Stitch on 4mm needles. 22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over st st on 4mm needles. YARN STOCKISTS Patons c/o MEZ Crafts 01484 950630 www.mezcrafts.co.uk BLOCKING DIAGRAM THE CLASSIC BRETON STRIPED TOP NEVER SEEMS TO GO OUT OF STYLE SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS MS: Make Star. Purl next 3 sts on LH needle together but leave sts on needle, yo, P into first st on LH needle and drop all 3 sts from LH needle. For general abbreviations, see p81 BRETON TOPS never seem to go out of style, thanks to their classic shape and appealing blue and white stripes. Chloe Webster has…

AN EXPERT on Estonian knitting, Nancy Bush modelled this shawl after the small triangular scarves currently made along the west coast of Estonia in the vicinity of Haapsalu. Worked from the point up to the top edge, this shawl incorporates classic patterns, such as a scalloped outer edge, a wide openwork border, and a smaller openwork pattern in the centre. Nancy has used a pure North American Shetland laceweight yarn; we have suggested alternatives that are available in the UK. SIZE 137cm (54in) wide across top edge, and 91_cm (36in) long from centre of top edge to bottom point, after blocking YARN Elemental Affects Shetland Rustic Lace (Laceweight; 100% North American Shetland wool; 600m/660yds per 100g skein) Bronze (016); 2 x 100g skeins Note: this yarn is now discontinued. Alternative…

SIZE Hem circumference: 131cm (51_in) Neck circumference: 43_cm (17in) Length: 29cm (11_in) YARN King Cole Baby Alpaca (DK weight; 100% alpaca; 100m/109yds per 50g ball) A Koala (504); 2 x 50g balls B Fawn (501); 1 x 50g balls C Camel (500); 1 x 50g balls NEEDLES AND ACCESSORIES 4mm (UK 8/US 6) circular needles, 40cm and 60cm long Stitch marker TENSION 22 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over pattern using 4mm needles YARN STOCKISTS King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com For general abbreviations, see p81 “NECKWARMERS AND capelets have become my trademark as a designer,” says Eline Oftedal. “Every time I think I have exhausted the possibilities, I get a new idea. This one is a combination of two designs I have made before, and I love the interaction…

MANY BRITISH knitters will know Schoppel Wolle for the spectacular self-striping yarns in its Zauberball range. Offering exciting colour changes, Zauberballs are ideal for knitting eye-catching socks or shawls – the ‘U-Turn’ socks on page 59, for example, are knitted using two ends of Crazy Zauberball in the colourway ‘Herbstwind’. Schoppel’s yarns are increasingly available to UK knitters from high street yarn shops and online stores, and the brand also has a large number of followers on Ravelry.com. We talked to Gerhard Schoppel, the company’s founder, about his affection for yarn, his love of colour and, in a crowded market, what the brand has to offer to British knitters. The history of the company dates back to 1948, when Gerhard’s father founded the firm Schoppel Spinnerei und Zwirnerei. “Originally, it…

Sew pocket linings in place on inside, then neatly sew down ends of pocket tops. Sew side and sleeve seams. SOUTH WEST Spin A Yarn www.spinayarndevon.co.uk customerservices@spinayarndevon.co.uk 01626 836203 Exciting and unusual yarns from around the world. Rare and Touch yarns from NZ, Rowan, Debbie Bliss, Noro, Arctic Qiviut, Malabrigo, Mirasol, Araucania and Juniper Moon. 26 Fore Street, Bovey Tracey, Devon TQ13 9AD ONLINE John Arbon Textiles www.jarbon.com info@jarbon.com 01598 752490 British manufacturers of luxury yarns and tops... from VIOLA to ALPACA SUPREME to KNIT BY NUMBERS, etc. Based in Devon, we are one of the few worsted processing and spinning mills still operating in Britain. NORTH EAST/ONLINE Fine Fettle Fibres www.finefettlefibres.uk judith@finefettlefibres.uk 01670 600001 Specialising in British and Fair Trade yarns in natural fibres, Fine Fettle Fibres also offers…

Abbreviations alt alternate approx approximately beg beginning ch chain cn cable needle cont continue dc double crochet (US single crochet) dec decrease (work two stitches together) DK double knitting DPN double-pointed needle dtr double treble (US treble crochet) est established foll following inc increase K knit KFB knit into front and back of stitch K2tog knit the next two stitches together kwise knitwise meas measures M1 make one (see M1L) M1pw make 1 st purlwise: with RH needle lift the strand between next and last st from front to back and purl through the back loop M1L left leaning increase: with left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back. Knit lifted loop through back of loop M1R right leaning increase: with left needle tip, lift strand between…