WHEN I MENTION I’M TAKING A TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS, THE FIRST QUESTION I generally get is “Where’s that?” Between the Black and Caspian Seas, I say, hands rising and separating. Azerbaijan, Georgia, Armenia.
The next question is usually “Why?”
Then I rush on to explain, as briefly as I can, that my grandfather served there in the First World War, when the Caucasus were part of the Russian Empire fighting the Ottoman Empire, which was allied with Germany. He was a medic, I say, he worked on the trains carrying wounded men away from the front, the Caucasus front, that is, today’s Turkey, and all that time he was writing letters to my grandmother, his fiancée, 141 letters that we still have, translated by an aunt, and there are…