Indholdsfortegnelse for February 2022 i Town & Country

Why is there now always a line to get into Bemelmans? Why can’t you get a reservation at Musso & Frank? Why are they bringing Six Feet Under back to life? After two years of feeling stuck in time, it seems the only way we know how to start again is with the familiar. Nostalgia, as you’ll read in a brilliant portfolio of essays—edited by Danielle Stein Chizzik and Erik Maza and Adam Rathe, and designed by Kristin Fitzpatrick—is the new cool. Looking back, as those essays point out, is sometimes the only way forward, but is nostalgia the enemy of the new? This issue asks that question—and provides an antidote, with introductions to superstar talents like cover star Julia Garner, whom you may recognize from Ozark but who you…

BOARDING SCHOOL CONFIDENTIAL / RENOVATING DAISY BUCHANAN / NO SPAIN, NO GAIN SO WHAT’S NEW? “She’s a firecracker,” Joaquina Kalukango says of Nelly O’Brien, the character she plays in “She’s Paradise Square, a new Civil War–era musical bowing on Broadway this month. “She’s able to see people’s true hearts.” Nelly is a free Black woman and New York City bar owner who presides over the collision of Black and Irish-American cultures—and the birth of tap dance—in the notorious lower Manhattan neighborhood that was then known as the Five Points. “This is a story about people who manage to overcome their differences and create something beautiful in the face of fear and danger,” Kalukango says. If Nelly has a magnetism that draws people into her orbit, so does Kalukango. The 32-year-old…

YASSIFY SPRING FASHION / COUTURE’S INDIANA JONESES / HOW TO SPEND YOUR BONUS About two years ago, right around now, Bergdorf Goodman opened a speakeasy on the second floor of its men’s store. It was a brasserie-style eatery called Goodman’s Bar, where a customer might hold court with a shopping bag overflowing with Brunello Cucinelli in one hand and a lobster BLT in the other. Hypebeasts compared fits; bankers traded stock tips. Then, of course, Everything Changed. Commerce switched to the web. Slowly, in-person visits returned, if by appointment only. And when the city finally came roaring back, so did the shoppers—local, domestic, and international. Goodman’s Bar regained its spot as the watering hole to be seen in after you’d spent a good chunk of your bonus, a lounge for…

A TRIP IN A BOTTLE / HOT SHOTS FOR BIG SHOTS / YOUR SKIN’S HORMONE PROBLEM From voluptuous night-blooming tuberose to radiant rosa centifolia, India grows some of the world’s most fragrant flowers. Yet there has never been an international fine fragrance house devoted to capturing these prized blooms. Enter Lila-Nur Parfums, a collection of scents based on Indian flora and crafted in France by some of fragrance’s most famous noses. The seven eaux de parfums are sophisticated and distinctive, and a trio of attars, or scented oils, made from single-origin floral absolutes steeped in sustainable sandalwood oil bring an ancient tradition to 21st-century pulse points. “Each fragrance is an evocation of India, and we hope people will go on a journey with us from the aromatic rose fields of…

AQUARIUS JANUARY 21–FEBRUARY 19 With stern Saturn in your birth sign, the pressure is on. Fortunately, when you choose to you’re capable of being very disciplined. Intense activity in a hidden angle of your chart demands action and emotional engagement. It’s a matter of moving forward with your own ambitions but remaining clued into what’s happening in others’ lives. RETROUVAI ($3,330), TWISTONLINE.COM PISCES FEBRUARY 20–MARCH 20 Embrace new ideas and offers this month. Expansive Jupiter is in your sign, and it’s time to let go of worn-out roles and situations. New associations and connections will reset your compass, so open your mind and your heart. You should feel more in control of events in your life as February unfolds, with your influence increasing. FRANCESCA VILLA FOR CAST ($6,250), CASTJEWELRY.COM ARIES…

Nostalgia ain’t what it used to be. Unlike sentimentalists of yore, and their timid mining of old veins, today’s top cultural producers are sucking the life out of the future by superfracking the past with a passion that would make Dracula blanch. Pop stars, from Elton John to Taylor Swift, are gleefully making hay of their old hits (and, in the case of Tay Tay, of her exes). Prada’s Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons are updating the label’s golden oldies (as goes Prada, so goes fashion!). Agenda-setting art and design fairs and auctions resemble decade-o-phile clearance sales. And TikTok influencers are yearning for everything from Boney M. to ’90s flip phones. Are you guilty of it too? Take this quiz to find out. How’s this for analog: The answers can…

SIMON REX With his rough-and-tumble good looks, the former MTV VJ recently rolled back into the spotlight with bombast, heart, and Oscar buzz in Red Rocket, the new film from director Sean Baker about a prodigal adult film star’s return home to small-town Texas. COURTENEY COX Cox’s comic timing made her a star in the 1990s as neurotic neat freak Monica on Friends and dogged reporter Gale Weathers-Riley in Scream. She’s back for January’s Scream reboot and the upcoming horror comedy series Shining Vale. FRENCH AND SAUNDERS Absolutely Fabulous veterans Dawn French and Jennifer Saunders have gone off a cliff and hit an iceberg together, leaving audiences in stitches along the way. They reunite this month with tickets to Egypt in Kenneth Branagh’s adaptation of Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile. DIONNE WARWICK She…

‘‘We could fill another six dining rooms right now, and we’re booked weeks in advance,” says Peter Landroche, maître d’ of Musso & Frank, Hollywood’s oldest restaurant and the darling of the old guard (Jack Nicholson has his namesake booth), the middle guard (Quentin Tarantino used it as a location in Once Upon a Time…in Hol lywood), and the new guard (it has become a destination for Netflix execs and producers). Similarly, the Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel has also seen a flood of activity. “It’s been busier than ever,” says Pepe de Anda, longtime director of the restaurant. “There is more excitement.” In 2020, as the city of Los Angeles mandated lengthy restaurant shutdowns, the blackouts caused panic in those of us who consider old guard places…

In Southampton, soccer moms drop their kids off at school after taking their thrice-weekly microdose of psilocybin mushrooms, then meet for oat milk lattes. In Sun Valley, private retreats dedicated to tripping on MDMA or the Amazonian elixir ayahuasca are becoming almost as common as backyard barbecues. (Just don’t bring the kids.) In Silicon Valley, tech entrepreneurs and financiers turned psychonauts believe that taking small doses of LSD, in either liquid or tab form, helps with creativity and productivity in the workforce. Even rightwing internet investor Peter Thiel has put a formidable stake in Compass Pathways, a publicly traded psychedelic medicine company. But now there’s a weirder, wilder new drug appearing on the menu for moneyed types in search of mind expansion: the Toad, otherwise known as 5-MeO-DMT (or, if…

Despite fashion’s fast pace, major innovations are often slow to catch up. Optimists from the 1980s might be baffled to see that 2022 is here and there are no Pierre Cardin plexiglass helmets or Marty McFly Nike Air Mags in sight. But some predictions do eventually come true, whether it’s the shift toward unisex clothing Rudi Gernreich envisioned in the 1970s or commercial space travel (though we’re still waiting to see passengers as chic as the ones Cardin dreamed). And designers continue to push forward, as Altuzarra is doing with cactus leather (below), an elegant commitment to sustainability. While history proves that it may be too early to declare the next It thing just yet, taking better care of the planet is the best kind of futureproofing there is. NOW…

WHAT’S VERY T&C? The history: It’s a question that comes up often enough after the second martini: What would you do if you could do anything? Move to Italy? Go back to school? Take up goldsmithing (see page 38)? For Deborah Needleman, the answer was basketweaving. The former editor wove this cachepot after watching a documentary from the 1970s on traditional Irish crafts, and then committing herself to the nearly lost practice of rush-weaving. The fans: Every well-appointed home in the world has a basket or two. Bunny Mellon devoted a whole room to them. The news: Founded by the late Southern writer Julia Reed and Keith Smythe Meacham, home decor site Reed Smythe & Company opened its brick-and-mortar in Nashville last year, and this spring it is the first…

SO WHAT’S NEW? Just the mention of F. Scott Fitzgerald conjures images of Jazz Age romps through the French Riviera, Long Island’s Gold Coast, or Roaring ’20s Manhattan. Yet it was Lake Forest, Illinois, a suburb just north of Chicago, that the writer considered the most glamorous place in the world. It was one girl who made the town wondrous for him. Ginevra King, the eldest daughter of stockbroker Charles Garfield King, was the It girl of Lake Forest. Known for her dark, curly hair and deep voice, Ginevra was part of a group of debutantes called the “Big Four” that included the golfer Edith Cummings, one of America’s first superstar female athletes. Ginevra was definitely out of Fitzgerald’s league. The pair had a short relationship, meeting first at a…

OUR JEWELS, OURSELVES / PRECIOUS STONES FOR THE SOUL / THE NEW GOLDEN AGE The other kids were saving up for bicycles and roller skates. I had something else in mind. It was a 14-karat gold heart locket with a tiny diamond at its center and a frame inside to hold a picture of your sweetheart, which in my case was John Lennon. If the proprietress of the jewelry shop in Massapequa, New York, was wondering what this 12-year-old was doing in her store day after day, she didn’t let on. I saved up my allowance money, wheedled and begged my softie parents to chip in, and, finally, I bought that sucker for myself. I still have it. I knew it when I was in junior high, and I know…

I became a fitness person during the Covid-19 pandemic. While the world was in chaos around me, I exercised to stay sane. After a year and change, though, I was ready to level up. That’s how I found myself sitting in front of Jamie Gabel, co-founder of Advitam in New York City, a metabolic wellness clinic where Gabel uses treatments like hormone replacement therapy, IV treatments, and more to improve not only how your body looks but how it functions. As we begin to treat wellness as both an internal and external pursuit, experts like Gabel are at the forefront. After a conversation about my fitness goals (two words: Chris Hemsworth) and lots of blood tests, he recommended hormone replacement therapy to address my lowish testosterone, as well as something…

In a world uprooted, is it any surprise I find myself turning to social media for a daily dose of the magic, mystery, and glamour of the past? The great parties of old, the homes of fabulous tastemakers, the thrill of sex in advertising—Instagram has become my nostalgia machine. I’m not alone, either. The digital ouroboros feeds these images to us on a loop, like an endless Back to the Future theme park ride, and we keep joyscrolling for more. It’s time we park the DeLorean. Throwbacks can be an escape from the daily information overload, but poking around the archives serves us well only when we use what we find to move the culture forward. Why revel in the past when I’m in the throes of Dua Lipa’s Future…

In the late 1800s, long before the creation of Walt Disney World’s Magic Kingdom, swashbuckling industrialists from the Northeast dreamed up an entirely different kind of park out of the lush land in central Florida. In search of a sunny place to spend the cold months, they settled on a majestic forest, resplendent with lakes among the trees, about eight miles from present day Orlando. The area was surveyed and mapped, and in 1887 Winter Park was born. Today it’s a city of 30,000 people, predominantly white and wealthy, brimming with signs that read, “It’s a beautiful day in this neighborhood,” a nod to Fred Rogers, a graduate of the local Rollins College. If the patina seems too good to be true, that’s because it is. Built into its very…

It took a bit of magic, and no small amount of mischief, for Robert Altman to get Gosford Park to the screen. Twenty years after its release, the film is now beloved, a deliciously witty British country house murder mystery. Set during a shooting party in 1932, it is fraught with sex, snobbery, and duplicity, with an emotional jolt at the end. The privileged class upstairs includes Michael Gambon as a boorish tycoon, Kristin Scott Thomas as his aristocratic wife, who loathes him, and Maggie Smith as her haughty aunt, the Countess of Trentham. Below stairs are the servants, including Helen Mirren as the housekeeper, Eileen Atkins as the cook, and the late Alan Bates as the butler, all with secrets of their own. Add the house party’s guests, their…

100 YEARS OF SCIONTOLOGY / POOR LITTLE RICH GIRLS, QUEEN BEES & INFLUENCERS / INHERITANCE? THAT’S HOT When model and artist Ivy Getty got married in November, it did not go unnoticed. The ceremony was widely covered, and a not-so-friendly internet parsed the optics of having as her offciant Nancy Pelosi, the good fortune of her sweater-wearing rescue dog, and her bridal gown, which, designed from a shattered mirror by John Galliano for Maison Margiela, looked as if it could bring at least seven years of bad luck. Also noted: her surname. As the scion of one of the most important oil families from America’s robber baron past, Getty is a throwback to an era of loopy, over-the-top, fashion-embracing heiresses. The public’s obsession with the Nancy Cunards and Gloria Vanderbilts…

SO WHAT’S NEW? At this point we all know what to fear. A weekend at a country manor? Regrets! A trip aboard the Orient Express? We’ll fly. So how did The Afterparty, a new eight-part series airing now on Apple TV+, find a fresh approach to the classic murder mystery? To begin with, it didn’t. The series—like genre greats Clue or The Last of Sheila—focuses on a murder and its aftermath, all of which take place in one location. In this case it’s the mansion of pop star Xavier (Dave Franco), where a group gathers for post–high school reunion frivolity before their host is offed. Each of the guests (a rogues gallery of possible killers played by Sam Richardson, Ilana Glazer, and Genevieve Angelson, among others) has a motive, and…

After first discovering gold nuggets at the Tucson Gem Show in 2016, jewelry designer Lisa Eisner became so captivated by their raw, glowing beauty that she set off on a four-year search to find enough for a capsule collection. “They rolled around in the earth for millions of years, morphing into these amazing little sculptures. The nuggets were naturally beautiful. I couldn’t make them any better,” she says. “It’s like the gods spoke.” As one origin legend goes, 4 billion years ago a giant asteroid strike showered the planet with gold deposits that settled in its core. For millennia since, gold has empowered nations, incited wars, and defined cultures, from the ancient Egyptians, who buried their rulers with ornate gold jewels to ensure a rich afterlife, to the Aztecs, who…

RULE 1 Understand the psychology. Among his many other principles, Friedrich Nietzsche had this idea of “eternal return.” It means that time is cyclical, and everything that has happened will happen again, like a tape loop. As Nietzsche theorized it in The Gay Science, “This life as you now live it and have lived it, you will have to live once more and innumerable times more; and there will be nothing new in it.” The philosophical question is whether this is a good or a bad thing. Such repetition could be either hellish or reaffirming, showing that life continues. Whether eternal return is real we can leave to religion. But we already experience it in American culture in the 21st century. As Nietzsche says, there is nothing new. Every television…

Broadway has long held a place for familiar comforts. From musicals that haven’t left the neighborhood for a quarter century to shows that crop up like perennials, classics are part of the landscape, like streetlights or prix fixe menus served tout de suite. The Music Man, which opens this month starring Hugh Jackman and Sutton Foster, has come around like clockwork every 20 years or so since its 1957 premiere. Neil Simon’s Plaza Suite hasn’t taken up residence below Central Park South since it first played in 1968, but the production that opens next month marks another longedfor return: of marquee stars Matthew Broderick and Sarah Jessica Parker, who last played opposite each other in How to Succeed in Business Without Really Trying, when they had been dating just four…

“After our long hibernation, the time feels right to celebrate what brought us through: our bodies.” A few months ago I joined countless avowed lifelong New Yorkers and moved to Los Angeles, whereupon I discovered that I hated all my clothes. Mostly these were the things that had carried me through the past two years: a kingdom of oversize khakis and men’s button-down shirts, wideleg jeans, candy-colored athleisure sets, a muted rainbow of cashmere crewnecks. I had newer things, too, the stuff I had bought during lockdown while planning for a more hopeful future: party dresses and statement tops intended for cocktails and dinners out, all puffed shoulders and flouncy skirts, generous silhouettes intended to ease me in to a less anxious life. As I considered how to be in…

René Allonge, director of the Berlin police department’s art crimes division, was six years old when one of the great heists of the 20th century shook the establishment of his native East Germany. At around 2 a.m. on December 14, 1979, a burglar equipped with crampons scaled a drainpipe up to the third floor of the Schloss Friedenstein, a 17th-century Baroque palace turned museum in the town of Gotha. A new alarm system wasn’t yet operational, and that allowed the intruder—who probably had inside information—to cut through a window and slip undetected into the exhibit halls. He took the works of five masters, including Jan Brueghel, Frans Hals, Hans Holbein, and, it was then believed, Jan Lievens or Ferdinand Bol, two Rembrandt protégés. The deed done, the thief descended the…

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