Indholdsfortegnelse for Volume 120 - 2023 i Vacations & Travel

Diving in icy Antarctic waters, lying for weeks in baking hot Australian mud flats, and studying the instincts of predators to avoid disaster – Scott Portelli goes to great lengths to capture the shots that have captivated audiences, and judges, around the world. But as we discover when we sit down with Scott to talk about his life and work, he wouldn’t have it any other way. Why did you become a wildlife photographer? Travel was the initial motivation for me to take photos. As I learned more about the world and nature, I developed an interest in wildlife and the ocean, which evolved into a passion for all creatures and how I could represent them through my photography. Now my work is more focused on conservation, education and awareness…

UGANDA & RWANDA 1 Lock eyes with gorillas You’ll need patience to see your first mountain gorilla, but once you gaze into their soulful eyes you will be forever changed. There are only 1,000 gorillas left in the wild, and by seeing them you are helping to ensure their protection and survival. Find them in central Africa in the forests of the ‘Virunga Massif’, a vast swathe of national park spread across three countries – Virunga (DRC), Volcanoes (Rwanda) and Mgahinga (Uganda). The experienced can head to Uganda where terrain is steep, while Rwanda is more forgiving. classicsafaricompany.com.au HONDURAS 2 Into new territory You can now go where no cruise ship has gone before with Ponant. An eight-day itinerary aboard Le Dumontd’Urville will take you to Cayos Cochinos, La Ceiba…

ON OUR LEFT, WAVES ARE crashing on craggy headlands. On our right voluptuous green hills are dotted with golden California poppies. We’re following the sinuous Highway One as it weaves north from San Francisco. “California Dreaming” is blaring from the radio of our red BMW convertible. We got it through Turo, the world’s largest peer-to-peer car-sharing marketplace, which typically offers much more affordable options than your standard car rental company. The top is down, and our hair is as wild as the red-tailed hawks swirling overhead. We’re cruising through Sonoma County on what might possibly be the best three-day road trip in the world… or at least California. An untamed stretch of Pacific Ocean coast; a cool river valley framed with soaring redwoods; vineyards, apple orchards and lush pastures stretching…

IT’S JUST BEFORE SUNSET AND I’M sitting cross-legged on a pandanus mat in the main square of Gunu, a small and remote village on Naviti, one of Fiji’s idyllic Yasawa Islands. Don’t ask me how, but myself and Nigel – a fellow passenger on board MV Reef Endeavour – have been chosen as an honorary ‘chief’ and ‘warrior’ for this evening’s event. Combining a sevusevu kava ceremony, lovo (a feast of meats, fish and vegetables cooked in an underground oven), and a celebration of Fijian song and dance known as a meke, this traditional gathering is a hugely important part of Fijian life – and our hosts take it very seriously. With the village chief, elders and four younger men in real warrior regalia sitting opposite us – our guide…

Flight number: VJ85 Aircraft: Airbus A330 Seat: 1C Duration: Eight hours, 40 mins Long established in Asia, new-age airline, VietJet has landed in Australia with regular flights from Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane to Ho Chi Minh City at a fraction of the cost of its competitors. The airline was ranked Best Low-Cost Airline for Onboard Hospitality 2023 and Best Ultra Low-Cost Airline for the fifth year in a row by AirlineRatings. We fly SkyBoss Business from Ho Chi Minh City to Sydney to find out if it lives up to the hype. Spoiler alert. It does. THE CABIN Though Vietjet is a low-cost carrier, its international flights feature an exclusive SkyBoss Business Class cabin with just 12 premium angle-flat bed seats that recline to a smidge off horizontal. While it’s…

Mark Olive makes tastebuds sing at Sydney Opera House Celebrated Indigenous Australian chef and Bundjalung man Mark Olive has an exciting new culinary experience at the Sydney Opera House, Midden by Mark Olive. Located on Tubowgule, Gadigal country, the restaurant’s name pays homage to the oyster shell mounds left by the Traditional Owners. Drawing on his heritage and heroes, Mark will excite tastebuds with a vibrant menu celebrating native Australian ingredients. From pepperberry cured salmon with lemon aspen foam to a grazing plate featuring smoked kangaroo, emu, lemon myrtle, tandoori crocodile and native thyme hummus, it will be a gastronomic adventure. With lunch and dinner served daily, Midden by Mark Olive also offers a matinee high tea on Wednesdays and weekends. sydneyoperahouse.com A new realm for Chef Ben Willis New…

I take in the view over Mykonos town from my private terrace. I can see the six windmills that look over Little Venice, large ferries toing and froing from other islands, a rainbow of bougainvillea, as well as a swag of superyachts anchored off the town. Ah, Greece. It has been far too long. I am staying at the Myconian Korali, part of the Myconian Collection of 10 luxury hotels dotted around this vibrant island of blue sky, blue domes, blue sea, whitewashed walls, and a sea of extravagant cocktails. Korali is one of three Myconian properties perched on a hill, with Naia Luxury Suites and Kyma Design Hotel located next door. Walking into the lobby, eyes are immediately drawn to the picture windows on the far side, giving the…

UZBEKISTAN 1 Storied Samarkand Renowned for its marvellous mosques, monuments and minarets, Samarkand, nestled in a large oasis in the valley of the Zerafshan River is a shimmering jewel of the ancient Silk Road with almost mythical appeal. One of the oldest cities in the world, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed site was founded in the sixth-century BC and is adorned with architectural wonders. Visitors can wander through labyrinthine bazaars crammed with vibrant colours and fragrant spices and marvel at turquoise-tiled madrasas. Or lose yourself in the grandeur of the Gur-e-Amir mausoleum, the final resting place of Timur the Great, founder of the Timurid Empire and the 600-year-old Ulag Beg observatory, one of the earliest Islamic astronomical observatories. uzbekistan.travel COLOMBIA 2 Coffee and cloud forests From the vibrant streets…

Rule of thirds Intrepid travellers will have even more opportunities to explore the mesmerising White Continent thanks to the early launch of World Voyager, Atlas Ocean Voyages’ newest expedition yacht. The 198-guest ship will join World Traveller and World Navigator in Antarctica for her inaugural 2023/24 season. Atlas Ocean Voyages is also introducing a Fly and Cruise Expeditions option, allowing passengers to bypass the notorious Drake Passage with flights departing Punta Arenas, Chile with complimentary pre- and post-cruise accommodation. atlasoceanvoyages.com Rivers and vines Sip award-winning drops as the French countryside drifts idly by aboard AmaWaterways latest ‘Celebration of Wine’ river cruise. Debuting in 2024, ‘Flavours of Burgundy’ will whisk guests along the Saône River, calling in on some of France’s most prestigious vineyards and charming châteaux between Dijon and Lyon.…

#INDONESIA #CULTURE STIRRING IN MY HAMMOCK JUST before sunrise, I listen to the distant calls to prayer drifting over the bay and echoing between nearby mountains. Boat motors start to cough and splutter, puttering off from the port of Labuan Bajo through the glassy seas surrounding the island of Flores, Indonesia. While the soft morning light reflects from the wooden decks of nearby fishermen’s boats, I too bound into action. With bare feet, sarong, mask and snorkel, I head dockside to banter with some local skippers and find Captain Ferdi sitting with his unused boat, keen for a day of adventure. Casting the lines adrift, we leap off on a day scattered with manta rays, turtles and countless fish, amid canopies of colourful coral, in this area known for its…

Flight Number: AA73 Aircraft: 777-300ER Seat: 6A Duration: 15 hours, 26 mins As a long-time domestic American Airlines customer, I wanted to try its long-haul service and was lucky enough to experience the Flagship Business Class product, which started with a separate premium check-in, and access to the Flagship Lounge. THE CABIN Business Class featured 52 seats with a 1-2-1 herringbone configuration ensuring privacy and aisle access for all. The seats are really well designed with plenty of storage for all the guff you take on board – laptop, book, passport wallet, phone and so on – as well as a shoe storage area. Bottled water, a set of Bang & Olufsen headphones and a Shinola amenity bag were very welcome, along with the American Airlines pyjamas. The seats are…

TRIED & TESTED Known as the valley isle, this tropical pocket of paradise in the Hawaiian chain boasts a mild year-round climate tempered by the Pacific Ocean. With five kilometres of palm tree-lined white sands along the award-winning Kāʻanapali Beach – named best beach in the United States – it’s a view Hawai’i travel dreams are made of. Kāʻanapali Beach Hotel gives you a front-row seat to the azure waters from your beachside balcony. Premium Ocean Front rooms boast a vista across to the neighbouring islands of Lanai and Moloka’i. A recent $80 million refurbishment across some of its 432 rooms and 14 suites has upped the style stakes whilst retaining an authentic Hawaiian design with interiors a nod to local traditions, like the signature headboard inspired by the lei…

TRIED & TESTED It’s hard not to be floored when you arrive at Wailea Beach Resort, the hotel’s grand lanai (verandah) framing palm trees and the sea beyond. And not that far beyond, from my Ocean View room, I could stand on the balcony and throw a coconut into the waves. Other accommodations – there are more than 500 – come with garden views, some feature private lanais, and the freshly renovated Sundeck Collection offers a little taste of all the above design perks. Not that you’ll want to spend too much time inside – there’s far too much to experience across the hotel’s 80 hectares. Top of my list is one of the three pools; I opt for the adults-only, double-tiered Maluhia Serenity Pool, where the only sound is…

In the heart of Greece sits the World Heritage-listed monasteries of Meteora, which means ‘suspended in the air’. These six incredible Orthodox monasteries have stood the test of time, perched on top of rugged sandstone peaks that jut out of the striking green Thessaly plains like giant teeth. Originally there were 24 monasteries, somehow constructed by monks on top of almost vertical rock walls between the 14th and 16th centuries. Rousanou Monastery (pictured above) was built in 1529. visit meteora.travel 4 other views you will love Niagara Falls From above, or from a boat, these falls are magnificent. niagarafallstourism.com City Climb in NYC Hang out 102 storeys over Manhattan’s streets. edgenyc.com/en/cityclimb Giant Redwoods Look up at the incredible redwoods that grow to 91 metres. visit california.com Camels in the Sahara…

Off-grid luxury in Busselton Planting 6,000 rose gum saplings on their 40-hectare family farm 14 years ago, Busselton couple Andrew and Fran Robinson set off on an unexpected environmental journey. Through their hard work and the growth of these trees, their property, Tree Chalets, has achieved self-sufficient net-zero carbon and earned Eco Certification for nature tourism. The award-winning off-grid boutique accommodation, opened just three years ago and offers luxurious amenities such as bubble baths on the back deck with bushland views, cosy evenings by the fire, gourmet platters, local produce hampers, farm produce tours and warm country hospitality. treechalets.com.au Ancient Egypt coming to Sydney The Australian Museum in Sydney will play host to Australianfirst exhibition, Ramses & the Gold of the Pharaohs from November 2023 until May 2024 with tickets…

TANZANIA 1 Deep dive Lay in bed and watch as shoals of kaleidoscopic fish glide around you. The Manta Resort’s ‘underwater room’ is, as its name suggests, a suite that sits 12 metres deep off the coast of Pemba Island in Tanzania's Zanzibar archipelago. The three-level structure has a ladder leading to the roof where you can bask in the sun, and by night watch a starlit sky. Spend days exploring the forests, swamps, mangroves, hidden beaches and lagoons scattered among the ruins of mosques and tombs, and dine at the resort’s seafood restaurant watching the sun go down overlooking a sparkling ocean. Then head down to your room for a 360-degree view of the otherworldly underwater world. themantaresort.com SOUTH AUSTRALIA 2 SOUTHERN BEAUTY On a rugged clifftop…

IT’S A SULTRY SARAJEVO SUNDAY – all strudels, street food, sidewalk cafes and flirty flower boxes. Geraniums and graffiti wallpaper the city peppered with a mismatch of communist-style apartments and ancient buildings. I am ambling along the main strip of Ferhadija, and in this one-kilometre stretch I weave between courtyards, churches, mosques and marketplaces. Outside, the central City Market is more elaborate theatre than bustling food hall but its function has remained unchanged since it was built in 1895. Inside, it tastes of smoked meat and unpronounceable products that tango on the tongue: braveca (sheep); jareca (goat); zarebrica (cow); and slani kajamak, korzi sir and mlada kriska cheese. Here, Serbian forces killed 100 civilians on two separate occasions in a defining moment of the war that was broadcast around the…

CANBERRA HAS BEEN TEMPTING A very in-the-know artsy crowd for decades. But a swathe of new developments – including the design-focused A by Adina, Midnight Hotel and East Hotel, the newly revitalised Lonsdale Street, buzzy Kingston precinct and edgy Dairy Road precinct – have bolstered the city’s cool credentials in recent years. The nation’s capital now has a lot to incentivise the stylish set to jet in from around the country, causing it to rise up the cool ranks and draw in crowds that may otherwise have spent their weekends on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula or the NSW South Coast. THE FUTURE IS NOW Things really started to hot up in Canberra when ‘Hotel Hotel’ (now Ovolo Nishi) opened its doors in 2013 with owner Molonglo’s vision “to show how art,…

THE GREAT PARADOX OF TOURISM is that the more accessible a place becomes, the less desirable it is to visit. Of course, most destinations observe a sentimental equilibrium whereat one can visit with relative ease, and yet impress their friends, but I reckon Antarctic tourism has passed that point. The internet hasn’t helped; the continent’s alien mystery could hardly withstand the viral videos of influencers twerking on its glaciers or gasping in performative awe at passing icebergs from the balcony suites of cruise liners. Fundamentally – in the eyes of modernity’s swelling cynicism – it’s already too easy to get to. Hence, for 52 days, I made things more difficult for myself by pretending to be a prior-century polar explorer aboard a triple-masted tall ship. Built in 1911, the Bark…

IT’S 9AM ON NORWEGIAN SPIRIT, and the stern-side alfresco bar overlooking the pool and hot tubs is already doing a roaring trade in mimosas. Breakfast cocktails are not only condoned, but are positively endorsed on sea days, particularly when you’re cruising between postcard-worthy tropical isles in the South Pacific. I would like to say that I use my time away from shore productively, but instead I fall into a ‘ship coma’: a blurred state where I wander from morning Bloody Marys to 007 trivia, onward to an origami class, a goofy golf challenge, lunch, guess the weight of the sculpture, ‘pop and jazz with John’, more cocktails, dinner, ‘party time with DJ William’… It is pointed out to me that I could venture into another, healthier world to stretch at…

Sanctuary on safari In Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve, you can have a massage metres from where wildlife roams. The newly opened JW Marriott Masai Mara Lodge has 20 private tents within the reserve, each with terraces overlooking the River Talek. When you’re not seeking out the Big Five, relax at the Spa by JW with a tailored experience or signature treatment using African skincare brand Healing Earth’s organic, natural products. Start the day with guided yoga, head out on safari, then return to a massage on your terrace. End your day dining on dishes created with ingredients from the lodge’s on-site garden. marriott.com New spa concept at sea A new spa concept is promising wellness at sea like you’ve never experienced. Crystal Cruises’ Aurōra spa will feature the latest…

TRIED & TESTED It’s been 16 years since I stayed at Peppers Seminyak (previously Sentosa) and while the streets of the popular tourist destination have changed, the resort is exactly as I remembered – an alluring oasis. We walk into our villa over a stepping-stone koi fish pond, the private swimming pool beckoning in the midnight heat. But my fatigue wins and I head straight to one of our villa’s three freestanding bedroom pavilions. Peppers Seminyak offers a range of one- to five-bedroom villas, each with frangipani-filled gardens, a private swimming pool, full kitchen and bathrooms with gigantic outdoor sunken baths surrounded by bamboo. Our three-bedroom presidential pool villa has a separate kitchen and entertaining pavilion, providing everyone with space to relax and spend time together, without feeling crowded. Breakfast…