Indholdsfortegnelse for Volume 127 - 2025 i Vacations & Travel

I joined this issue halfway through its journey – somewhere between the Arctic Circle and a schnitzel in Vienna – and quickly realised that ‘Wander and Wonder’ is more than just a theme. It’s also a state of mind. And, in my case, a job description. Taking over the reins mid-flight (quite literally) offered a rare perspective: part passenger, part pilot, full appreciation for the team who’d already charted the course. My role? To help steer us to a smooth landing – ideally with a cocktail in hand. This issue is a passport to places that provoke wonder in all its forms. You’ll plunge into the Great Barrier Reef with the endlessly adventurous co-founder of Baillie Lodges, Hayley Baillie, explore the quiet power of Hiroshima with designer Jason Grant, reminisce…

In Kenya, the Lewa Lionesses are rewriting the rulebook on frontline conservation and anti-poaching. This all-female ranger team in northern Kenya’s 25,000-hectare Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is safeguarding endangered species such as black and white rhinos and Grévy’s zebras, blending grassroots knowledge while challenging legacy assumptions around security, strength and leadership. Meanwhile, Liv For The Sea is the solo venture of freediver Liv Rose, whose deep connection to the ocean began in the gin-clear waters off Lord Howe Island. Now guiding expeditions on Australia’s Ningaloo Reef, Galápagos Islands and Indonesia, her approach blends technical mastery with meditative immersion – where encounters with whale sharks and neon coral gardens “unfold as silent adventures”, as Rose puts it. Adding to the list is Up Norway, a Norwegian tour company founded by Torunn Tronsvang,…

Sky-high merit The APEX Best Awards, presented in conjunction with the International Flight Services Association, recognise airline excellence across five categories – and the 2026 results are in. Emirates has snagged the top slot for best entertainment, Korean Air won gold for cabin service and Eva Air was accoladed for its superior seat comfort. The title for best Wi-Fi, meanwhile, went to Delta Air Lines, while Qatar Airways took out the top gong for food and beverage. apex.aero Four-legged flyers Virgin Australia’s nation-first ‘Pets in Cabin’ flights have lifted off, opening the gates to a new era of fur-and-purr travel. Tickets start at $149 per animal, with the trial set to run until late January 2026 on flights between Melbourne and the Gold Coast, and Melbourne and the Sunshine Coast.…

The magical, mystical and mysterious merge as I traipse along a well-worn path, lit by thousands of flickering candles, in the ancient city of Petra. Shadows dance on ruby red rock-carved treasures from the long-lost Nabataean empire that founded the city more than two millennia ago. As I wander well behind the crowd, the haunting sounds of Bedouin flutes float on the breeze, puncturing the stillness and silence. It takes me to another time, as I ponder the secrets of this place, home to more than 600 majestic temples and intricate tombs carved by a once nomadic tribe. They later found wealth via the spice trade route and built Petra. Amid the crunch of footsteps on gravel, the breeze also catches hushed whispers from international visitors, who have come to…

It’s easy to listen to Jake Simkin talk. His stories are simultaneously sad, incredible and shocking, each one offering a glimpse behind the veil of comfort in which the Western world lives. He speaks of being held by Houthi captors in Yemen – yet sharing a meal with the mayor while there – and he once had coffee with a soldier linked to al-Qaeda in Syria. Simkin has helped dig bodies out of rubble in Indonesia and documented women’s rights issues in Pakistan. He hung out with Anthony Bourdain and toured with Gotye. To this, he simply says, “sometimes things are scary. But most times, they’re a comedy.” Simkin is a Melbourne-based photographer and cinematographer who has spent more than 15 years documenting life across war zones and humanitarian crises…

“Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre has only filled four times in the past 160 years... it’s happened this year” When Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre in outback South Australia sees a trickle of water, the phenomenon makes news headlines all over the country. That water flow is totally reliant on heavy rains in northern Australia making their way south through thousands of kilometres of waterways. It can take months to arrive. Often, it never makes it. But when it does, even the smallest amount is worth celebrating. In this desert region, water equals life. You can imagine, then, what happens when the lake fills. The outback comes to life, and the ripple effects reach far and wide. Fish reappear, plants regenerate, wildflowers bloom and birds flock to the region – with a band of…

A camel walked into a bar. No, really. I was propped up at the bar in the Bucket of Blood Saloon when a grunting camel moseyed past behind me. I had ducked in for a large margarita to settle my nerves after I’d just been thrown off an ostrich and landed in zebra poo. Hang on, I probably should back up a bit to explain. I’m at the 66th International Camel & Ostrich Races, a three-day event at which adults race camels, ostriches, and zebras – and children chase emus and chickens. It all takes place in Nevada’s Virginia City, a Disneyesque slice of the Old West complete with wooden boardwalks, historic saloons, abandoned silver mines and folks wandering around dressed in uncomfortably scratchy clothes of yore. THE SILLY If…

From aboard the Sylvia Earle, the long-abandoned Thule settlement of Qilakitsoq in northwestern Greenland appears barren – a crude sketch of slate-grey coastline etched against the sea. But as our Zodiac noses up to the pebbly shore and we walk inland toward a mossy flat, the scene begins to shift: the bay shimmers silvery-blue, fulmars zigzag between icebergs, hunting baitfish. The damp earth is draped in bright lichens and hardy shrubs, with rivulets trickling to the shore. Then, unusual details emerge – unnaturally flat patches atop the permafrost, and piles of rocks, some scattered by the elements, others carefully stacked by human hands. Aurora Expeditions’ historian Aviaaja Schlüter explains those hands belonged to the Thule people – ancestors of today’s Inuit – who came to the Arctic around 1000 CE.…

I smile confidently as I try to pass the French lock keeper the long pole I’d found below deck. He blinks, then laughs. “Madam, that is part of a deck umbrella,” he says. “You need the actual pole to pass me the rope.” It’s not an auspicious start to our adventure on Canal du Midi in the South of France – but things improve. Quickly. And it becomes one of the best mini-breaks we’ve had. My husband, Simon, had long dreamed of drifting along a French canal. I wasn’t convinced. Did I really want to spend several days on a small boat when I could be browsing boutiques, cycling through forests, or sipping wine in sunlit squares? But I agreed and booked us a spiffy canal cruiser from Le Boat,…

Jake’s progress Guests of South Australia’s Kingsford The Barossa are in for something special at Orleana Restaurant, now led by renowned chef Jake Kellie. Building on the acclaim he has gained at his own restaurant, Arkhé in Adelaide, Kellie has also assumed the role of culinary director here, presenting a menu focused on the best in local produce. Dishes are designed to harmonise with Kingsford’s breathtaking landscape, a bucolic outlook that pairs perfectly with new menu inclusions such as the local Barossa crudité with macadamias and succulent Lyndoch roasted duck. kingsfordbarossa.com.au Doppia Baia buona Neil Perry’s latest culinary venture in Double Bay sees the space formerly occupied by his Cantonese concept, Song Bird, transformed into an upscale Italian ristorante: Gran Torino. Descend into the moody Bar Torino down below for…

“Art, architecture, good food, great coffee, a cool bar and somewhere interesting to stay – that’s my recipe for the perfect trip. Hiroshima delivered all that and more.” Known for its sombre past, Hiroshima today is unexpectedly vibrant, design-forward and full of low-key cool. It’s got energy without chaos, culture without crowds and a creative spirit that sneaks up on you. His advice? Keep the itinerary loose. Walk the streets, jump on a streetcar, get lost and stumble into something great. Here’s Grant’s Hiroshima hit list: ART SIMOSE ART MUSEUM A surreal pastel dreamscape set on the water; this otherworldly museum is worth the one-hour train ride and short taxi from the station. The gallery is housed in pastel-popping floating capsules on the water. Go for the gallery, eat in…

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO TAKE UP DIVING? “I was lucky to grow up around family friends who were pioneers of the ocean – the legendary underwater filmmakers and conservationists Ron and Valerie Taylor. When I was just 10 years old, Valerie strapped a scuba tank on my back and introduced me to the underwater world for the very first time. From that moment, I was captivated – and I’ve been exploring the ocean ever since.” YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO DIVE, AND WHY? “The Great Barrier Reef – how lucky are we to have the world’s largest coral reef system right in our own backyard? No other place combines such sheer size, biodiversity, accessibility and natural beauty. It’s home to some of the most pristine coral reefs I’ve ever seen, bursting…

1 Sacred sentinels Destination highlight: In western Madagascar, the Avenue of the Baobabs rises like a natural cathedral – towering baobab trees, some over 800 years old, lining a 260m stretch of red earth. As sunset ignites the horizon, these ancient giants cast long, timeless shadows like silent sentinels where nature reigns supreme. Who’s taking us there? Tour operator Eclipse Travel hosts a nine-day journey featuring the island’s most captivating sights, rich culture and rare wildlife. Beginning and ending in the capital of Antananarivo, the Wonders of Madagascar itinerary includes encounters with exotic lemurs, scenic boat rides and a magical sunset stop at the Avenue of the Baobabs, where you can capture these mesmerising trees silhouetted against a golden sky. eclipsetravel.com.au 2 Tone shift With music as medicine and nature as…

The bean counters get you on arrival at Ashgabat International Airport. The US$95 (AU$145) I’m slugged for a tourist visa is a hefty whack to start with. A US$4 bank processing fee then adds to the pain. “Now do your COVID test,” instructs a uniformed official. I’m out of pocket another US$31 for that. The tester is a bearded old man who’s dressed in a white laboratory coat. He’s seated behind a fold-away table piled high with nose swabs, one of which he waves in front of my face. I tilt my head backwards, expecting to feel the swab drilling into my brain like it usually does. Instead, it barely brushes my nostril. “Finish,” he says, waving me through. “That’s it? Don’t I have to wait for the result?” “No,”…

Day 1 10am Start your day at KL Tower for a top-down view of this frenetic city. Take the lift to the Observation Deck — and if heights don’t faze you, venture out onto the open-air Sky Deck, join a Tower Walk, or bravely step onto the glass-floored Sky Box, hovering more than 276m above the ground. 11:30am Head to Chinatown to explore Petaling Street, Central Market, and the ornate Sri Maha Mariamman and Sin Sze Si Ya temples. Take a break at one of the many hawker stalls or tucked-away cafés — like Da Bao, in the vibrant Kwai Chai Hong precinct. 1:30pm It’s chai time in Little India, aka Brickfields. Stroll through the colourful markets for textiles, spices and flowers. Admire the diverse temples such as the Buddhist…

For decades, Sydney and Melbourne have jostled for the cultural crown: coffee vs cocktails, laneways vs harbour views, black-clad minimalism vs sunshine-soaked maximalism. And now? They’re going head-to-head on hotels. Both cities are in the middle of a boutique boom – but true to form, they’re doing it their own way. Sydney’s hotel game has always leaned luxe – but now it’s loosening up. At the newly opened The Olympia, the first Australian outpost of 25Hours Hotel, colour and character take centre stage. Set within a restored heritage building at Paddington’s edge, it channels vintage Australiana with a dose of Berlin-style irreverence: think bold murals and multiple buzzing food and drink spots including the chic rooftop bar Monica, and Middle East-inspired The Palomar, a transplant of one of London’s coolest…

Spring can be a fickle friend in Vienna. Just ask the locals making the most of the April sunshine, occupying every bench and lolling on the lawns of the parks that help the city breathe. It’s Friday afternoon but no one’s rushing to be anywhere else, as they’ve seen tomorrow’s forecast – 6˚C and bitter winds – and are recharging their solar batteries while they can. Vienna is a cultural wonderland, and every park or garden has a touchpoint with the city’s architecture, history, art, music or gastronomy. Some are tourist beacons but many more are the domain of locals, for whom a day in the park is as Viennese as a night at the opera or Kaffee und Kuchen in an atmospheric café. In Vienna I go green daily,…

Ididn’t know the sky could be purple pre-dawn. I also didn’t know the startling beauty its hues could create when mirrored in pristine water at the first hint of daylight. Like a curtain rising on a theatrical performance, the plum panorama morphs into daybreak blues as the star of the show emerges. It needs no introduction as it casts morning rays upon a landscape so ancient, yet so unspoiled, it belies its billion-year-old history. I’m exploring the Kimberley region on an 11-day voyage with adventurers Heritage Expeditions. The area’s 422,000 square kilometres is vast – starting in Broome, Western Australia, and ending on the border of the Northern Territory. As our Zodiac snakes past dense mangrove swamps yet to emerge from night, nature’s sound technicians play the accompanying soundtrack –…

Gold-star serenity The Michelin Guide bestowed its first-ever Wellness Award this October during a Michelin Key ceremony at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. The new accolade celebrates hotels that prioritise wellbeing, offering guests a place to reset and depart with lasting, positive lifestyle habits. While front-running nominees included Arizona’s Canyon Ranch Tucson, Joali Being in the Maldives, Lily of the Valley in France and The Retreat at Iceland’s Blue Lagoon, it was ultimately Switzerland’s Bürgenstock Resort – with its 10,000sqm Alpine Spa, expert-designed hydrothermal journeys and panoramic lake views – that took out the top title. guide.michelin.com Downward dogs Combine mindful movement with wagging tails and you’ll get what’s been dubbed ‘puppy yoga’ – an adorable trend currently bounding around Australia’s East Coast (and Instagram feeds worldwide). Sydney…

Long revered for its world-class cabernet sauvignon and dramatic coastal beauty, Margaret River is entering a new era: one defined as much by fine food and design as it is by its iconic vines. The region’s culinary and viticultural buzz is unmistakable in 2025, with a fresh wave of openings, accolades and headline events putting it squarely in the global spotlight. This November, Margaret River will play host to the prestigious The World’s 50 Best Vineyards, drawing international attention to the region’s cellar doors and immersive wine experiences. Adding to the acclaim, fine dining standout de’sendent has earned New Restaurant of the Year in the 2025 WA Good Food Guide Awards – further proof that Margaret River is no longer just a wine destination, but a serious contender on Australia’s…

The last time I visited Whitehaven Beach – the Whitsunday Islands’ famed scoop of powdery, ivory sand – was 30 years ago. I was one of many daytrippers then, and I remember the regret of not having arranged to camp overnight, missing the solitude that settles in once the boats depart. Not this time. As the last vessel sputters off into the blue, I ease back into my camp chair to watch one of the Whitsundays’ greatest spectacles: the sky. I’m not entirely alone – there’s a goanna snooping around the tents and a fawn-footed melomys, a tree-dwelling rodent, rustling in the underbrush. And of course, my five fellow kayakers and two guides. It’s calving season for the humpbacks that migrate up Australia’s east coast from Antarctica, and even the…

High tea may have its origins in British aristocracy, but the refined afternoon ritual is taking on a new life in another part of the globe. In a recent bourgeoning movement, Tokyo has seen an upswing of heavenly high tea experiences that elevate the English tradition to soaring new heights. The Japanese, after all, are renowned for their gracious hospitality, precision of presentation and culinary artistry. The city’s ever-evolving hotel scene is only adding fuel to the fire. Fresh openings push world-class chefs and pâtissiers to step up their game and continually reinvent their menus to reflect the seasons. Each achieving a unique balance between Japanese and Western influences, these hotels are engaged in an arms race of high tea innovation – to the benefit of petit four devotees from…

Where the wild things are Australian-born Coral Expeditions is giving travellers 47 reasons to say yes to the Kimberley – one of the world’s oldest and largest wilderness areas – with a slew of departures announced for the 2027 Kimberley cruise season. A Lens on Nature: The Kimberley is a dedicated photography voyage designed in partnership with the Australian Geographic Society designed to help visual storytellers capture the region’s remarkable natural frontiers, from thundering falls to glorious gorges. Meanwhile, the refreshed Coral Frontiers & Kimberley Icons itinerary spotlights in-water exploration with visits to the Rowley Shoals Marine Park and Scotts Reef. coralexpeditions.com History afloat Voyage through the channels of history in 2027 with AmaWaterways’ new history-themed cruises. Distinguished Australian historian Mat McLachlan has partnered with the luxury river cruise operator…

Once a restricted military zone, Cam Ranh has reinvented itself as one of Vietnam’s most enticing coastal escapes. Fringed by 17km of powder-soft white sand beach and lapped by the warm crystalline waters of the South China Sea, this serene peninsula feels a world away from the charming chaos of Ho Chi Minh City, although it’s just an easy one-hour flight away. My home for the next few days is Alma Resort Cam Ranh, a resort spanning 30ha and just under a kilometre of pristine beachfront. Lush tropical gardens and shady pathways weave between contemporary suites and villas, where modern design meets a breezy sense of coastal freedom. Space is what Alma offers, and it’s what I feel from the moment I arrive. Despite its impressive scale, with 580 rooms…

After a delayed Thursday evening flight from Sydney with a fractious three-year-old in tow, it’s a simple 10-minute stroll from Brisbane’s Domestic Terminal to Pullman Brisbane Airport. I’ve long been an advocate of the pre-flight airport stay, particularly when travelling with family, but this is my first post-flight experience, and the Pullman proves the perfect sanctuary: polished, quiet and composed, a convenient and contemporary space to recharge before starting the next chapter of our Brisbane adventure. Check-in is effortless – warm yet professional. Minutes later, I’m heading up to my Deluxe Executive Room on the tenth floor: a generous, light-filled space dressed in soft neutrals, layered textures and floor-to-ceiling windows, the ideal respite after a long travel day. Two double beds in crisp white linen anchor the room, while thoughtful…

Myriad mountain pleasures await at Eriro, a handcrafted nine-suite hideaway in Austria’s Tyrolean Alps. Gaze out at alpine panoramas from picture windows that change with the seasons: hazy alpine pastures in summer, gold-laced spruce forest in autumn, snow-sprinkled peaks in winter and wildflower meadows in spring. Hyperseasonal culinary experiences and an underground spa – complete with multiple plunge pools, a hay-covered sound room, herbal sauna and forest bathing – elevate the experience. eriro.at Four other ski resorts with impeccable views The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa, India Fir forest meets challenging terrain at this 2690m-high sanctuary in Gulmarg – India’s only luxury ski resort. khyberhotels.com The Little Onsen Cabins, Japan Hand-built from local cedar, this pair of eco-conscious cabins on Hokkaido island deserves a place on your bucket list. thelittleonsencabins.com…