ERIC GOUJOU WATCHES THE way we entertain. The owner of celebrated ceramics boutique La Tuile à Loup studies what appears on our tables from one year to the next, from one corner of the world to another. He can tell you, for example, that modern French hosts are bypassing big, commanding salad bowls in favor of smaller dishes “to offer more of a variety.” Today’s in-demand soup bowls, he contends, are deeper and smaller than their predecessors (more suitable for popular Asian-style soups), he says, and Americans are unwavering in their love for blue-and-white dishes of all shapes and uses.
He isn’t in pursuit of trends, but rather, permanence. “The French grew up with aptware, marbleware, and folk art pottery, and have grown to love the elements, the colors, the…
