Indholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2023 i VertdeVin Wine Magazine

I'm very pleased to present you the new issue of VERTDEVIN Magazine. This 22th edition of the magazine introduce an eclectic selection of wines from several European countries. To start we chose with my team, Joanie, Erika, Chloé, Yukiko, Valéria, Matthias and Valentina to speak to you about different winemakers and wines from Italy, Canada, California, Georgia, France, Cyprus and more. This magazine is the result of exhilarating trips, amazing tastings, great discoveries and fabulous meetings! So, in the first part of the magazine, the interview session you will meet great winemakers from different parts of Italy. You will also be able to discover articles about the rebirth of Château Bellefont-Belcier (Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé), an explanatory article on the new classification of Champagne de Vignerons and a special focus…

See Chianti Colli Fiorentini tasting reviews on pages 142 & 143 Chianti Colli Fiorentini is a wine appellation located in the Tuscany region of Italy. This area is known for producing high-quality wines, and Chianti Colli Fiorentini is no exception. The appellation was created in 1932 and is one of the seven Chianti DOCG zones. Chianti Colli Fiorentini is located in the hills surrounding the city of Florence. The appellation covers a vineyard area of about 330 hectares. The territory where Chianti Colli Fiorentini wine is born covers the hilly area around Florence, embracing the city from south-west to south-east (from Montelupo Fiorentino to Fiesole, passing through Lastra a Signa, Scandicci, Impruneta, Bagno a Ripoli, Rignano sull´Arno and Pontassieve), with three offshoots that descend towards the south and include to…

Interview Chianti Colli Fiorentini From the 1960s the goal of La Querce was to produce high-quality products of their terroir. 42 hectares of the estate, located in the heart of Chianti Colli Fiorentini, are vines and olive trees, which are cultivated respecting traditions and using innovations. The most of vines planted are local Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino varieties. Some of the estate olive groves have more than 100 years old and give exceptional olive oil. VertdeVin: You are located in the Chianti Colli Fiorentini area. What are the peculiarities of the terroir in this part of Chianti? Marco Ferretti: In Chianti Colli Fiorentini there are 4 zones with different soils. The smallest zone is Holocene alluvial deposits with clayey-sandy formations due to the Arno river and its tributaries. The second…

Interview Barolo Diego Morra is a dynamic producer, whose vineyards lay on the hill of Monvigliero, offering exceptional conditions for growing grapes of high-quality. But Diego Morra searches to express this terroir, ideal for Nebbiolo, in his wines. He harvests grapes from different plots separately and produces wines, unique for each microclimate. VertdeVin: You are located in the heart of Verduno. What are the peculiarities of the terroir in this part of Barolo? Diego Morra: The terroir of Verduno, although it is a rather small area, is characterised by many intrinsic differences and a particular microclimate that has a great influence on the expression of the wines. Wines that have become synonymous with elegance, intensity, finesse. The composition of the terroir - in which the laminated Fossil Marl of Sant'Agata…

Nestled in the picturesque vineyards of Saint-Emilion with a beautiful view over the Dordogne river, the restaurant served refined French cuisine based on the fresh local produce. The Decoster family offers an excellent selection of wines to match the sophisticated dishes prepared by the Chef. VertdeVin: Which dish in your restaurant is a must and should be tasted by every customer? Thibaut Decoster, the owner of Magali & Thibaut Decoster Vignobles et Art de Vivre & Atelier de Candale: Our restaurant is not strictly speaking a restaurant with “signature dishes”. We offer really a dynamic and an “open-minded” cuisine based on the products of the moment, sourced as closely as possible. We aim to have a menu that is constantly reinvented according to the seasons and the market and that…

The third largest island in the Mediterranean and the birthplace of Aphrodite, Cyprus today is better known as a popular resort than a wine-producing country. The island's wine reputation, however, used to be far more significant. Cypriot wines are said to have been served at the feasts of Dionysus, and in the 13th century, a wine from Cyprus won the first-ever wine competition organised by French King Philip II. History Cyprus is situated at the crossroads of trade routes between Europe, Asia, and Africa and has always been a strategic location for navigators. Historians find evidence of vine cultivation on the island as early as the 2nd millennium BC. The Phoenicians and Greeks preferred sweet wines made from raisins, as they were better suited to be transported. In the port…

LIVELY CHAMPAGNE Piollot Père et Fils - Colas Robin (Brut nature) Nice compact and persistent foam. Intense straw color and discreet bubbles. The first nose is intense and fruity on peach in syrup with menthol freshness. Some notes of toast and undergrowth as well as flowers like the tiare Tahiti appear. Nice champagne with fresh vanilla and brioche flavors. The mouth is fresh with lively bubbles. There is salinity and a hint of acidity. Nice balance. Lively, this champagne has tension, minerality and floral notes. We find brioche and pine sap. The finish is light with a hint of bitterness. The end of the tasting is with white raspberry pulp and green apple. Score: 16/20 (92/100) Le Mesnil - Brut (Blanc de blancs) Nice compact mousse. Straw gold color, fine…

Château d'Aiguilhe 2020 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux The nose is fruity, elegant and offers nice fleshiness as well as a fine richness. There are notes of crushed blackberry, almost roasted cherry and, more slightly, crushed red berries combined with hints of pulpy violet plum, star anise and a subtle hint of limestone/terroir, nutmeg and a very discreet hint of saltiness. The palate is fruity, balanced, racy and offers juiciness, a nice acidity, smoothness, tension, energy and dynamism. On the palate this wine expresses juicy/tart cherry, juicy/tart raspberry and slightly crunchy plum notes with hints of cornflower, nutmeg, crushed blackcurrant and a subtle hint of star anise/eucalyptus and salinity. The tannins are supple, smooth and fresh. Good length. Score: 16.25/20 (92-93/100) Clos Lunelles 2020 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux The nose is…

PUISSEGUIN SAINT-EMILION Château Lafaurie 2020 Puisseguin Saint-Emilion The nose is fruity and tangy. There are notes of fresh/sour redcurrants, cherry and a bit of pepper/spice with hints of flowers and a touch of fresh/crisp blackcurrant. The palate is fruity with juiciness, minerality, acidity, good definition, gourmandise, energy and good acidity. On the palate this wine expresses juicy/pulpy blackberry, cherry and slightly tart/chunky currant notes combined with hints of pepper, flowers (violet, iris) and fine chocolate and vanilla. The tannins are supple and tight. Good length. Suave. Score: 14.75/20(88-89/100) Château Tour Guillotin 2020 Puisseguin Saint-Emilion The nose is fruity and offers a fine intensity in its grain. There are notes of blackberry, ripe wild black berries and a hint of black pepper, combined with hints of violet, camphor and hints of…

Domaine Pradelle, Les Hirondelles 2020 Crozes-Hermitage The wine has a ruby color of medium intensity with purple reflections. The nose is aromatic and expressive, on the freshness of fruits and herbs. It reveals notes of red cherry, morello cherry, blackcurrant and red currant with delicate hints of violet, blackcurrant leaf and crushed mint leaf. On the palate, the wine is full of freshness, ripe red and black fruits (tangy red cherry, red currant, cranberries, wild strawberry, blackcurrant), it also expresses delicate herbaceous (thyme, bay leaf, mint) and floral (violet) notes. Bright acidity gives the wine energy, and fine, but firm tannins offer a good structure. The finish is on the acidity of red cherries, quite persistent, with subtle herbaceous notes. A pleasant and fresh wine. Score: 15/20 (89-90/100) Comté de…

Askaneli “Gocha's Collection” Muza Qvevri 2019 Rkatsiteli, Kisi, Mtsvane, Mtsvivane, Krakhuna Beautiful amber colour of medium intensity. The nose is spicy and multilayered with nuances of dried fruits, quince, incense and sage. The palate is salty and minty, revealing floral notes, hints of orange peel, dried apricots, and candied lemon. The wine is very fresh, offering juicy tannins with some bitterness on the finish and a touch sweetness that balances the phenolics. Score: 15.25/20 (90/100) Askaneli “Gocha's Collection” Muza Qvevri 2021 Rkatsiteli, Kisi, Mtsvane, Mtsvivane, Krakhuna Medium amber colour. The nose is intensely herbal, opening up with notes of eucalyptus and mint, complicated by nuances of dried apricots and medicinal herbs. The palate offers moderate alcohol, refreshing acidity, present but mellow tannins. A slightly nutty finish. Score: 15.25/20 (90/100) Gurashvili's…

Mauro Sebaste 2021 Moscato d'Asti DOCG The wine has a pale lemon yellow color with slight green reflections. The nose is discreet and subtle, expressing notes of white flowers (acacia, apple blossom), fresh grapes, ripe apricot and a very light hint of minerality. In the mouth, the flavors are more pronounced. The wine expresses notes of fresh grapes, dried apricot, juicy white peach and fine notes of orange blossom. A wine on finesse, with subtle bubbles, a light body and a fairly fresh acidity to balance a rather sweet finish. Moderately long on the palate. Score: 14.75+/20 (89/100) Boeri Ribota 2021 Moscato d'Asti DOCG The wine has a pale, young lemon color. The aromas are pronounced, on the nose the wine expresses notes of juicy Williams pear, fresh grapes, delicate…

Interview Piemonte The history of Malvira’ starts in 1950s, with a dream of Guiseppe Damonte to produce wines that reflect the essence of the land of Roero. Nowadays, the third generation of the Damonte family shares the same philosophy and, inspired by the terroir of Roero, produces wines that express its uniqueness. In the vineyard and in the cellar, the production methods aim to respect the terroir and express the sense of place in its wines. From 2017 the estate is certified organic. VertdeVin: You are in the heart of La Morra. Could you describe the particularities of your terroir? Roberto Damonte: Our vineyard in La Morra is called Boiolo, and it lies 400 m above sea level. Before, this terroir was not warm enough to produce Barolo, but now…

Interview Barolo Azienda E. Pira & Figli - Chiara Boschis is located in the heart of Barolo. 11 hectares of vineyards are split between the best wine production areas: 2 hectares in the commune of Barolo, 8 hectares in the commune of Monforte d'Alba and 1 hectare in the commune of Serralunga d'Alba. The work on the vines, strictly manual, is carried out with extreme care and respect for the environment, following the principles of organic cultivation. The winery has been certified since the 2014 harvest. Production is very limited (about 40,000 bottles per year) and only comes from the estate-grown grapes. VertdeVin: You are located in the heart of Cannubi. What are the peculiarities of the terroir in this part of Barolo? Chiara Boschis: Cannubi is a very famous…

As part of the annual “Selection by VertdeVin” tasting, during WineParis Vinexpo 2023, we welcomed a talented watercolourist Élise Disclyn. Élise specialises in producing parcel maps of vineyards, but she also creates watercolors of family houses, wine properties, facades of châteaux as well as personalised and unique illustrations. During the “Selection by VertdeVin” tasting, Elise made small watercolors for all the participating winegrowers, in order to offer them souvenirs of this tasting. Élise gave us an interview, where she spoke about her professional career and shared her future projects. VertdeVin: Tell us about your professional background. Why did you decide to become a watercolourist after a career in teaching? Was it your passion since your childhood? Élise Disclyn: After a degree in Classics, a Masters in Ancient History and a…

In the very heart of Florence's historic centre, just a few steps from the prestigious Uffizzi Gallery (a museum that has been included in the Top 20 in the world) there is the unbelievable Osteria delle Tre Panche. It is an essential stop for gourmets orbiting Florence, a city cradle of the Renaissance; this restaurant is born after the first sign opened in Via Pacinotti, which was followed by a stint at the Chefs Club in New York. The new cuisine is set close to the magnificent terrace of the new Hotel Hermitage, here the stunning view over the rooftops of ancient Florence the air carries scents, and taste buds are stimulated by recipes interpreted by an exceptional duo: Andrea and Vieri Bista. Precision and flair, raw materials of absolute…

Le Mercière is located in the heart of Lyon's peninsula and remains a must for those who want to taste the region's specialities. The warm atmosphere of the dining room or the intimate interior of the first floor, or the heated “traboule”, make the Mercière a unique destination in the city centre, in summer and winter. The chef, Jean-Louis Manoa, is keen to maintain a cuisine that reflects his values. At the Mercière, they work with local farmers and this allows them to cook every day with fresh, seasonal produce. As for the wine list, Jean-Louis Manoa and César Ponsonnet favour independent winegrowers and friends that you will often have the opportunity to meet at the restaurant table. VertdeVin: Which dish in your restaurant is a must-try and should be…

Today, in addition to white, rosé, and red wines, a fourth colour category - orange - is on the wine list at trendy restaurants. But Georgians do not like the word “orange” as many consumers might think this type of wine is made with oranges. So instead, they use a more poetic term – “amber.” But let's talk about the phenomenon first. What do oranges have to do with it? The term’ orange wines’ was coined in 2004 by David Harvey, a British wine retailer employee. The catchy name was immediately adopted by sophisticated sommeliers and, consequently, by wine connoisseurs. None of them thought the term might mislead an ordinary consumer - is it an orange wine or a wine made with oranges? Producers do not like the definition either.…

Château Peyros Vielles Vignes 2019 Madiran The wine has a deep ruby color. On the nose, the wine expresses pronounced aromas of red and black fruits (morello cherry, black plum, red plum, blackcurrant, strawberry, with a sweet touch of dark chocolate and a minty freshness). There are also sweet spices (cinnamon, liquorice, cloves) and a slight note of smoked meat and leather. On the palate, the wine expresses tension, freshness, flavours of small red berries (cherry, Morello cherry, cranberries), as well as the sweetness of ripe black plum and prune in chocolate. The tannins are refined, but powerful and grippy. Their dryness is balanced by high acidity. The finish is long, and the wine develops on slightly animal (smoked meat, leather) and spicy (clove, nutmeg, liquorice) notes. Good structure and…

Château Plain-Point 2020 Fronsac The nose is fruity and offers a certain intensity, a mastered richness, a nice finesse of its grain as well as a certain purity. It reveals notes of crushed blackberry, crushed strawberry and slight notes of graphite associated with touches of blueberry, cornflower, pepper as well as slight hints of racy minerality, dry local grove and tea. The palate is mineral, juicy, fresh, gourmand and offers a nice airy character, a tangy frame as well as a nice creaminess with an airy and stretched side, all in finesse. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of creamy blackberry, creamy blackcurrant and slight notes of fresh purple plum associated with touches of chocolate, toasted hazelnut and vanilla. Good length. A discreet hint of cardamom and sweet blond…

Château La Conseillante 2020 Pomerol The nose is fruity in elegance with a nice delicacy in its richness and a certain depth. We perceive silkiness, a fine grain, a precise and delicate elegance. There are notes of pulpy cassis, blueberries and small notes of dense, pulpy berries associated with hints of almost roasted berries. There are delicate hints of cornflower, lily and subtle notes of cardamom and a discreet note of star anise and Bourbon vanilla. Little by little, notes of toast and toasted almond also appear. The mouth is fresh, mineral, elegant with a beautiful definition all in delicacy and harmony. The tangy frame brings airiness in its energy and silkiness with a pretty fineness of the grain… Lace! We have notes of juicy and tangy blackcurrant, almost crunchy…

AOC CÔTES DE PROVENCE Domaine La Navicelle 2020 Côtes de Provence Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre (Organic). The wine shows a pale ruby colour with a brightening rim. The nose is slightly closed, reductive and needs aeration, later opening up with nuances of red cherries and strawberries, nuances of violets and peonies, a touch of spices. The palate is pure and bright with nice juiciness and fresh acidity, beautiful expression of fruit and suave tannins. The wine reveals nuances of raspberry compote and cherry marmalade, complicated by notes of dried herbs, black pepper and a touch of ferrous minerality. Juicy finish. Score: 14+/20 (87/100) Château Sainte Marguerite Cru Classé - Fantastique 2021 Côtes de Provence Syrah, Grenache. The wine shows a pale ruby colour. The nose is gourmet and intense, revealing nuances…

ROMANIAN WINES Budureasca Noble 5 2019 Dealu Mare A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Feteasca Neagra shows a balance between power and suppleness. Opening up on aromatic spice character, cumin, cardamom, and chili powder, as well as deep dark fruits, the blend successfully brings complexity and harmony. Well-structured with more volume and concentration than tannins. Noble 5 showcase a harmony between suppleness and the audacity and rusticity of the famous local varietal Feteasca Neagra. Score: 15.25/20 (90/100) Budureasca Origini Feteasca Neagra 2018 Dealu Mare The grapes used to make this wine were selected from vines over 20 years old. Aged in a mix of French and Romanian oak, this plummy wine is rich and warm with cassis, earth, and spices notes. There's a rustic side to…

BARBARESCO DOCG 2020 Masseria di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG 2020 Montersino, Alba Powerful nose with freshness, intense. Notes of fresh wild blackberry, crunchy berries and elegant flowers. There are also hints of liquorice stick and a discreet hint of laurel berries and violets. The palate is fruity with freshness and minerality. There is an acidic structure, juiciness and good definition. This minerality is accompanied by good energy and juicy blackberry notes. There are also raspberry and some chocolate notes with hints of violet, liquorice stick and a touch of toast. Nice minerality overall. A gourmet wine with a subtle chewiness on the finish, persistence and a nice freshness. Score: 15.25/20 (90/100) Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG 2020 Alba Floral nose, a little tight with complexity and finesse. It's airy…

Tenuta San Vito - Darno 2021 Chianti Colli Fiorentini The nose is fruity (beautiful fruit!) and offers power as well as a slight intensity. There are notes of pulpy wild raspberry, fleshy cherry and small notes of crushed blackcurrant associated with small touches of sense of place (local biotop) as well as fine hints of toasted / vanilla. The palate is fruity and offers a nice freshness, minerality, suavity and an acidulous frame. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of juicy/fresh cherries, crunchy small fruits and small notes of lily associated with varietal touches as well as slight hints of toasted/chocolate. A good and fine work on the bitterness. Tannins are well-built. Good persistence. Score: 15/20 (89-90/100) Malenchini 2021 Chianti Colli Fiorentini The nose is fruity, very discreetly tight…

Interview Chianti Colli Fiorentini Typicity of Chianti and respect of the nature Fattoria San Michele a Torri is an organic agricultural domain, situated not far from the city of Florence. Its vast territory is planted with not only vines, but also olive trees and other plants. It is a traditional Tuscan winery, respecting nature and biodiversity, which offers an authentic gastronomic experience, accompanied by typical wines of the region. VertdeVin: You are located in the Chianti Colli Fiorentini area. What are the peculiarities of the terroir in this part of Chianti? Leonardo Francalanci, estate manager: Fattoria San Michele a Torri is located in the Chianti Colli Fiorentini wine-growing area, which is the hilly area surrounding the city of Florence. Here the terroir is quite heterogeneous, consisting mainly of silty clays…

Interview Barolo Fratelli Borgogno is a small family estate of just 3ha, situated in the heart of the famous cru of Barolo – Cannubi. Today, the fifth generation of the family manages the estate with the same passion and enthusiasm as their ancestors. They always respect the traditions of the wine region, the biodiversity of their vineyards and the expression of the terroir, adapting the work in the vineyard and in the cellar for each vine, each barrel and each vintage. VertdeVin: You are located in the heart of Cannubi. What are the peculiarities of the terroir of this part of Barolo? Emanuela Bolla: The peculiarities of Cannubi are certainly to be found in the formation of the soil and its strategic and central position, peculiarities that can give the…

Ampelographers say that Pinot Grigio is not a different grape but a colour mutation of Pinot Noir. The origins of this wine can be traced back to Germany and France, where it is successfully cultivated in Alsace, Burgundy, and Champagne, areas with cold climates. Historians claim that Pinot Gris came to Italy from the Austro—Hungarian Empire in the mid-19th century during the Italian wars of independence. It is believed to have been brought to Italy by General Emilio di Sambuy, who planted it in his estate in the province of Cuneo. From Piedmont, the variety gradually spread throughout northern Italy and, mimicking to be indigenous, changed its name to Pinot Grigio. Friuli became the birthplace of “ramato,” a unique style of Pinot Grigio that means “copper” in Italian. This wine…

RED WINES Clos Marsalette 2020 Pessac-Léognan The nose is fruity and offers a nice ripe and fleshy fruit. It reveals notes of fleshy blackberry, crushed strawberry and slight notes of toast, chocolate as well as fine hints of jammy currants. The palate is fruity and offers juiciness, a tangy structure, good definition, smoothness, silkiness, tension as well as a nice sapidity and iodised hints. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of raspberry, pulpy/juicy cherry, tangy blackcurrant combined with touches of lily, nutmeg, toast as well as discreet hints of saline gravels and an imperceptible hint of almost eucalyptus (in the background). Presence of a subtle hint of chocolate and toast in the background. Score: 15.5/20 (90-91/100) Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 2020 Pessac-Léognan The nose is fresh and offers a…

2020: a year of contrasts, an extreme year, a year for the wine grower… but an amazing vintage! Some key information to well-understand the 2020 vintage in Bordeaux: • Strong autumn heat. • Rather dry and mild months of January and February. • A mild month of March which stimulated the rapid onset of vegetation. • Early bud break on vines. • April, May and June (until June 20) were temperate and rainy months. A strong mildew pressure has been felt since the start of the vegetative cycle. • Very early flowering. • Summer (mid-June, July, mid-August) was exceptionally hot and dry (above normal). Some terroirs suffered from too much water stress or even vegetative blockage. • The rains of mid-August were welcome and allowed the great soils not to…

Simonnet-Febvre 2020 Irancy The nose is fruity and powerful with a sunny character. There are notes of warm pulpy cherries, wild blackberries and more slightly wild strawberries combined with hints of graphite and spice and a subtle, almost vanilla-like edge. The tart palate is fruity with juiciness, smoothness and a certain roundness and richness of fruit. There are notes of fresh juicy cherry, tart raspberry and more slightly juicy tart wild blackberry combined with a touch of violet and fine points of racy minerality. Soft tannins. Good length. Score: 14.75+/20 (89/100) Simonnet-Febvre - Veaupessiot 2020 Irancy The nose is fruity and spicy with a certain power and intensity, yet controlled, with a certain stretch. There are notes of violet, Bigarreau cherry and more slightly juicy blueberry and blackberry combined with…

Krajančič - Intrada Posip 2021 Pale lemon colour. The nose offers nuances of peach and quince with delicate hints of citrus zest and green pineapple. The palate is fruity, textured and waxy with refreshing acidity, a pleasant phenolic grip and mineral backbone. The finish lingers long with a very balanced, fruit-forward citrusy aftertaste. The name implies an entry-level wine but it by far exceeds the expectations. Score: 16.5/20 (93/100) Krajancic - Posip sur Lie 2019 (Tasted at Caroline Gilby MW's tasting during Vinart event in Zagreb) Medium yellow golden colour. The nose is intense and oaky, revealing nuances of vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg with ripe yellow fruits and lemons in the background. The palate is powerful and juicy, reminding of Californian Chardonnays, offering notes of pineapple, yellow apple, salt water…

VOUNI PANAYIA WINERY Vouni Panayia is a family winery with 35ha of vineyards spread on the slopes of the Troodos mountains. Founded in 1987 by Andreas Kyriakides and run today by his two sons – Yiannis and Petros, the winery exclusively works with indigenous grape varieties like Promara, Xynisteri, Spourtiko (a very rare grape), Yiannoudi, Mavro, and Maratheftiko. All the wines are ungrafted and dry-farmed. The vineyards are planted on clay-limestone soils at 850-1500 metres above sea level. Besides the classic range, the brothers experiment with lowintervention wines with a clean profile and colourful labels. Vouni Panayia Winery - Alina Xynisteri 2021 Paphos Pale yellow colour. Fresh nose of lemon curd, green apple, and lime blossom, a bit lactic. On the palate, with elevated acidity, zesty and crisp, a bit…