“Australia,” a friend of mine once told me, “is California with kangaroos.” I had to wonder, after spending fourteen hours on a plane, why I had flown halfway around the world to visit a place that is so much like home. Melbourne, my destination, resembles San Francisco, where I live, with its farmers’ markets, quirky coffee cafés, fine cuisine, boutiques, and nearby wine country. In my jet-lagged state, only the Australian accents convinced me I hadn’t just landed back where I’d started.
But after some sleep and a few of those “flat white” espresso concoctions Melbournians are mad about, I began to discover that although Victoria, Australia, may look like California, the attitude there is more relaxed, and the artisanal bent toward food, wine, and business isn’t confined to a…