Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2019 i Vogue Australia

Three beauties with uniquely Australian sensibilities and backgrounds – Margot Robbie, Adut Akech and Charlee Fraser – headline this September issue. Margot is captured by photographer Mario Sorrenti and styled by her friend, fashion director Christine Centenera, on four collectable covers that are as diverse in personality as her characters are on screen. Quentin Tarantino, who directed her in the blockbuster film Once Upon a Time in … Hollywood, alongside Brad Pitt and Leonardo DiCaprio, sat down with the actress for Vogue to discuss her meteoric rise to fame and quiz her about how she got there and where she came from – see page 188. Margot’s mum, Sarie Kessler, highlights her tenacity and individuality, which Sarie says was obvious from the beginning, in a touching conversation with her daughter,…

I’M NAMED AFTER my father. Stan is his name. To his family he’s Black Horse. He got the nickname because as a young boy he used to run around with tin cans tied to his feet and hands, imitating a horse. And he’s black. He’s black, Dad: black in a way I am not. It’s a blackness that comes not just from the colour of his skin, but the depths of his soul. It is blackness that comes from a certainty of being. He belongs here and this place is black. To be black was tantamount to a crime when Dad was growing up. Black meant that he could not be free; not counted fully as a citizen; told where he could live; whether he could swim in a pool…

THIS SEASON IS all about you. A very polished, put-together more chic version of you. Autumn/winter ’19/’20 focuses on a renewed show of sophisticated strength through cut, colour and an elevated couture-like elegance, or sense of it, applied to almost everything. Imagine that. The past five years have been ruled by the total energy of sportswear and the youthful exuberance of the street. The sneaker has been our god and we have all worshipped it – many of us have even downloaded the StockX app and bought, sold and bid on the Yeezy and Jordan Retro super-sneaker market. But with this new rule of chic law and order, the more chaotic and sometimes dysfunctional craziness of I’ll-wear-anything-to-getphotographed influencer style of dressing is under pressure. The schizophrenic bubble is finally deflating.…

A MURMUR WENT through the Kate Spade studio when Nicola Glass took over as creative director, the kind of muffled whisper that runs through an office about the new person. “I kind of banned bows,” Glass says with a semi-penitent laugh by way of confession from her 8th-floor office at the label’s Park Avenue, New York headquarters. “There was a ripple that went around the company of: ‘She doesn’t like bows!’” That’s hardly controversial, but when you are talking about a multi-billion-dollar brand that introduced exuberant quirk and fashion with a wink to a generation of American women (and then the world), a bow is serious business. Now, almost a year after showing her debut collection at New York Fashion Week – the first-ever Kate Spade runway show – the…

1. ”Alien (1979) is one my favourite movies, if I have to pick just one … which is almost impossible! Sigourney Weaver was one of my many teenage obsessions.” 2. “[A favourite place I’ve travelled to is] New Caledonia. One of my best friends is from there and I went to visit last year. It’s the most beautiful place. It’s on the other side of the world for me. For Australians it may not be as exotic, but it was for me!” 3. “I love so many photographers, but I kept my choice to Thomas Ruff, because I was recently able to buy some of his work and it makes me so happy to see it every day. He is an absolute genius and is consistently evolving his point of…

Expanding on the success of last year, Vogue Festival, presented by Vogue Australia in partnership with Rundle Mall, the City of Adelaide and the South Australian Tourism Commission, is back with a lavish array of fashionable parades, pop-ups and parties. This year we welcome GQ Australia, the leading authority on men’s fashion and lifestyle, to the celebrations. The festival opens on Thursday, October 17, with retail activities following on Friday and Saturday. Stores on Rundle Street and in the East End will offer exclusive promotions, outdoor activations and discounts. CELEBRATE AT THE OFFICIAL LAUNCH Join Vogue Australia editor-in-chief Edwina McCann at Rundle Mall’s famous ‘Mall’s Balls’ from noon on Friday to officially launch the return of Vogue Festival. VOICES OF VOGUE Hear from beauty and fashion leaders, and other industry…

TEXTURE PLAY On paper, fusing high-shine cobalt blue and matt black might seem laborious, but in real life it spells creative genius. Make Up For Ever Artist Shadow 2 Palette, $64. SHAPE-SHIFTER Eyeliner may be a stalwart of any beauty bag, but when used to create arresting shapes (and layered with a dusting of rosy shadow) it feels brand-new. Maybelline Master Precise Curvitude Liner, $19, and Fit Me Blush in Pink, $15. JOIN THE DOTS Sometimes the simplest strokes are the most impactful. These hand-painted spots sing against a natural complexion and brushed-up brows. Dior Diorshow on Stage Liner in Matte White, $56, Diorshow Bold Brow mascara in Medium, $44, and Dior Addict Lip Maximizer in Pink, $49. UP AND AWAY Who said paint-box colours should be relegated to the…

KEEPING IT REAL The entire autumn/winter ’19/’20 season was underpinned by the notion of discretion, with both hair and make-up artists noting that understated polish speaks volumes about the wearer. It’s less about creating a disguise and more about enhancing what lies beneath. “You have a bunch of really beautiful-looking girls – you cast them for a reason – so polish is right. I’m talking about it being kind of discreet grooming,” said make-up artist Dick Page of the Jacquemus girls, whose hair was pulled back or tucked behind the ears, with a wash of chocolate brown swiped across eyes. At Alberta Ferretti, Tom Pecheux spoke of “leftover make-up”, noting it was all about the skin and just a touch of maquillage. Echoing his words, Carole Colombani coined the term…

FOR ALL ITS gorgeous gloss, the beauty industry is serious business. In Australia it’s continually growing, and is forecast to be worth A$9.5 billion by 2024. In the much larger US prestige beauty market, the skincare sector alone grew 13 per cent in 2018, accounting for A$7.9 billion in sales. These are enviable figures, driven, of course, by a largely female consumer base, but also, increasingly, by women as the leaders and founders of beauty businesses. Jane Anders is senior vice-president of innovation for the Asia Pacific region for the Estée Lauder Companies. With the group’s senior ranks consisting of 54 per cent women, she is no longer alone. “In previous roles, there were many times when I was the only woman at the table, so it’s a real pleasure…

SARIE KESSLER: “Hi sweetheart, it’s Mum.” MARGOT ROBBIE: “So Mum, how’s it going?” SK: “Good, darling, I’m just finishing my smoothie from breakfast. I wish I had a cup of tea and you were sitting here with me. Okay, sweetheart, I wanted to talk to you about when you first started acting. You went down to Melbourne [for Neighbours] and cold-called the casting agent and did all of that by yourself. Where did that come from, that courage, the impetuousness to do that?” MR: “I couldn’t say. I guess it’s a question I’d ask you, because you know me better than most people. Tell me what you think.” SK: “Okay, this is my take on it. When you were born you were a very independent little person – you just…

POINT THE WAY With the kind of care afforded a jewelled creation, Fendi’s boots sit in the spot where hosiery, footwear and jewellery meet. Walk on into the night. PRECIOUS LITTLE Fashion has not forgotten the power of something with a little bit extra. Glinting pieces like J.W. Anderson’s brooch are no longer gauche but gloriously glamorous. HEADFUL OF DREAMS A haute hat whipped up from gossamer-thin French lace is exquisite enough, but add Pierpaolo Piccioli’s knack for high elegance at Valentino and you have a millinery masterpiece. ROSE TO GLORY A pinch of the surreal has the power to send pedestrian accessories into the style stratosphere, like Prada’s pretty stems arching out of frame from petite satin evening bags. COURTING ROMANCE Riccardo Tisci set the dial back to ladylike…

Bawah Reserve guests are picked up from Singapore and ferried to a regional airport for the seaplane flight to the island. Boutique travel agency Travel Associates (137 071; www.travelassociates.com) organised flights for myself and my husband. The transfer to Bawah Reserve takes place in the morning, so to maximise time and restore energy levels it’s recommended you stay in Singapore the night before. We chose Six Senses Duxton (www.sixsenses.com), which, befitting its wellness reputation, offers experiences such as complimentary consultations with a traditional Chinese medical practitioner, natural tonics in the room to aid sleep and to wake up, and a welcome sound bath with a Tibetan singing bowl (which I was initially dubious about, but was quickly won over by the vibrations, which did, indeed, relax me).…

VIRGO 24 AUGUST – 22 SEPTEMBER Renewed and revived this month, you have the power to attract who or what you want, but use your discerning eye to recognise scammers who may try it on to win your heart and money. You’re serious about your passion projects now too, after feeling lost in the dark recently. A little added luck links to all things home-related. STYLE ICON: Carmen Kass LIBRA 23 SEPTEMBER – 23 OCTOBER Make a clean sweep of your look and your outloo k this month. Your sometimes ‘floaty’ approach to work needs refreshing, so it’s all about making a plan and having the grit to stick to it. Manifest who you want to be and you’re sure to get seen and heard. From mid-month you also have…

ANDREW NUDING For London-based fashion photographer Andrew Nuding, a dream came true when he got to work with Adut Akech for this issue. “I remember watching her walk for Simone Rocha in 2018 and thinking that I would love to photograph her one day,” he says. Describing the theme of the shoot as “a sort of dark romanticism”, Nuding says: “We shot on the grounds of this beautiful dilapidated castle ruin in the Blue Mountains and photographed Adut in the pockets of light coming in from the windowless frames of the building, as well as on the grounds of this overgrown, tranquil landscape.” KAILA MATTHEWS Vogue Australia’s market editor had one of her busiest months yet since joining the team back in February 2018. She worked across every shoot in…

HIP TO BE SQUARE The shoulders that Anthony Vaccarello carved out at Saint Laurent – in jutting right angles – reinforced the effect of his overall silhouette this season: a potent dose of pure Parisian classicism and a tip of the hat to the city’s enduring influence. PRETTY IN PLEATS The Egyptians considered pleats to be a symbol of power, but the real takeaway here is that they have endured from era to era and trend to passing trend. Reinstate them as an everyday staple to wear in place of trousers. SWING THING Fashion’s ongoing love affair with the suit has distracted from the power of a perfectly formed dress. Zimmermann’s covered-up leather midi is at once commanding and louchely feminine: its sumptuous skirt adds movement and freedom. FIT TO…

CONSIDER THE CLICHE that money can’t buy you style. If the truism holds, then style is a feeling dictated by our gut or eyes and indulged by our wallets. When we drown out the noise (shop assistants, friends and family, targeted advertising), it all boils down to the law of attraction. We gravitate toward clothes that feel good on our bodies, snub the rest and suddenly we’ve managed to get dressed in an unadulterated fashion vacuum. Or so we think. In her 1990 book Gender Trouble, American philosopher Judith Butler regarded gender to be performative: if we repeat expected behaviours often enough we’ll believe them to be normal and true. In fashion, this translates to slipping on boyfriend jeans to feel a frisson of supposed masculinity, or shopping in the…

NO WALLFLOWERS HERE. Benjamin Garg’s work is an explosion of volume and colour: orange; the weathered ochre of ancient Rajasthani castles; summer-sky blue. “For me, these colours evoke joy,” says the designer. Taking those hues, the sari’s drape and the energy of Indian classical dance as his starting points, Garg has produced something rooted in the past but committed to the future. His process begins on the mannequin, gathering, pleating, knotting, then moves to a computer, where he Photoshops his dreamy silhouettes before creating his patterns. One skirt might take as much as 20 metres of fine pleated, wrinkled cotton, yet come across light as fairy floss. The wearer “must feel free, relaxed with continuous circulation of air”, he says. Melbourne-based Garg, who hails from the village of Mudki in…

IF YOU SPENT a good portion of the 80s glued to a hairdresser’s chair coercing your poker-straight tresses into corkscrews, you have reason to be a little apprehensive about the return of the perm. You’d better brace yourself, however, because the curl-inducing protocol is having a revival. But it’s not as you remember it. Instead, hairstylists from backstage at the shows to salons around the world are using the technique to achieve everything from a voluminous wave to a beach-like tousle. A notable exclusion, though, is the Shirley Temple ringlet synonymous with perms of decades past. Models with a natural wave, curl or coil spent less time in hair and make-up this season, with hairstylists from New York to Paris embracing all manner of movement. And where it was missing,…

FOR SUCH A small section of the face, the eye area can be rather bossy. Firstly, each of these delicate sectors of skin houses 22 muscles, which ironically, never sleep. Moreover, the eye’s surrounding skin is more delicate and thinner than the rest of the face, which is why common bugbears, like dark circles or puffiness, consistently show up. And, unlike other regions of the face, there are fewer oil-producing sebaceous glands, which can make the eye area prone to dehydration and dryness. Even the most vital and basic action of blinking – which on average we do 10,000 times a day – makes it one of the most unique and problematic zones for fine lines and collagen depletion. High maintenance is an understatement. “Your general skincare regimen is not…

CHECK LIST The idea that being classic equates with being banal should be laid to rest with Chanel’s day-drama checks and Parisian uniform high-gloss pants. BOW WOW Prep returns. Nod to the bon chic, bon genre progenitors of Fendi’s sweetly demure skirt suit and keep the trim impeccable and bow expertly tied. CAPE TOWN A sweeping cover-up never looked so sleek. Valentino’s lean cape in a languorous length is a winning case for a coat switch-up. POSITIVE STANCE Suiting is reinvigorated by way of Gucci’s power pants, imagined in voluminous shapes and a gloriously offbeat colourway. TALL ORDER Giorgio Armani serves straight-up evening wear, created as an attenuated take on the LBD with sheer panelling to tease. WELL-ROUNDED APPROACH With achingly precise deftness, Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy reworked the…

Enter Alessandro Michele’s office in the 16th-century palazzo (designed by Raphael, no less) that is Gucci’s design headquarters in Rome and you enter what he calls the “beautiful confusion” of his creative universe. Beneath soaring frescoed ceilings, reference books and fashion magazines are piled on every surface alongside an eclectic collection of objets , including tiny, elaborate 18th-century women’s shoes, Mickey Mouse and Gremlin dolls, antique vases and Persian rugs scattered across the vast stone floor. The room is a multi-layered mash-up of past and present, of history and pop culture – the same potent mix that has characterised Gucci since Michele became creative director in 2015 and turned it into the fashion powerhouse it is today. It is perhaps no surprise that the designer was born and brought up…

Pip Edwards is just shy of her 40th birthday, and she’s never felt better. The fashion industry stalwart, who made her mark at brands like Ksubi and Sass & Bide before co-founding athleisure label P.E. Nation, exercises daily (sometimes twice if her Instagram and washboard abs are any indication), maintains a healthy diet and, earlier this year, pondered what her ‘peak self’ – her mental and physical A-game - might look like. So she gave up booze, too. It began with Febfast – 28 days of sobriety in February – and spilled over into sober March and April, too. By May, although she marked her birthday with a celebratory cheers, the feelgood factor of ditching cocktails had become her new norm. “My speed, clarity, memory, foresight … everything is sharp.…

THE FARM BY JOANNE RAMOS An electrifying debut that probes contemporary social issues. DAISY JONES & THE SIX BY TAYLOR JENKINS REID A light read that deftly explores feminism and power in the music industry of the 70s. NORMAL PEOPLE BY SALLY ROONEY One of the buzziest books of the year is worth the hype. YOU THINK IT, I’LL SAY IT BY CURTIS SITTENFELD My favourite collection of modern short stories that humorously comment on the Zeitgeist.…

Shop in style David Jones has renovated its flagship Elizabeth Street store in Sydney just in time to showcase this season’s best new fashion, beauty, homewares and food. With three levels dedicated to women’s fashion, and 55 new brands by leading international and Australian designers, this is a shopping experience befitting David Jones’s 181-year legacy.Visit www.davidjones.com. The right time For more than six decades, Breitling has been creating timepieces that sit at the forefront of diving technology. Now, the brief has been extended with the new Superocean collection: sturdy enough for the deep sea but with a fashionable look for everyday life. The Superocean 36 is a smaller design, for women who want a reliable sports watch that isn’t short on style. Go to www.breitling.com. For all occasions The Furla…

MARGOT ROBBIE HAD just arrived in Hollywood when she first covered Vogue Australia. Having captivated audiences as Leonardo DiCaprio’s gold-digging wife in Wolf of Wall Street , she instantly picked up a slew of new roles, including starring alongside Will Smith in Focus and playing Jane in The Legend of Tarzan . Looking back on the shoot for the March 2015 issue, photographer Alexi Lubomirski noticed Robbie’s rising star quality. “She knew how to use her body to convey an emotion in front of the camera, which is always a blessing for a photographer,” he remembers. “She was very warm, friendly and unaffected.” The shoot took place in a studio in New York City that had been carefully styled to look like an old boudoir. Lubomirski had asked Robbie to…

WHO WEARS THE pants? That was the perennial and political question thrown up at the 51st Wimbledon Championships in 1931, when Elsa Schiaparelli dressed tennis champion Lilí Álvarez in a pair of culottes. The bold choice ignited the press, which condemned Álvarez and set the tone for the divisive reception of the pants. Dating back to the 1500s, when they were the exclusive domain of French aristocratic men, it wasn’t until the Victorian era that the ‘divided skirt’ became available to everyone. To resolve the quandary of riding bicycles and horses, women too adopted the silhouette, thereby associating culottes with liberty, practicality and style. “With origins rooted in menswear, [culottes] are an empowering piece, focussing on what they feel like to wear, rather than how others will respond to them,”…

ARNSDORF This eco-conscious womenswear label creates elevated everyday clothes using organic cotton, hemp and linen. CHRIS RAN LIN A focus on tailoring plays into Chris Ran Lin’s love of knitwear for his eponymous menswear label. KALAURIE Handcrafted-to-order, limited-edition capsule collections use deadstock trims and surplus fabrics. Melbourne Fashion Week runs from August 28 to September 5. For tickets, go to mfw.melbourne.vic.gov.au.…

1. VILLE DE CALAIS: HENK WILDSCHUT (GWINZEGAL, 2017) “This book has been a huge touch-point for me. It covers the settlements of the Calais ‘Jungle’ migrant camp in France, which I’d been data mapping over the six months of its forced evacuation, in my last big project. Not only is it a brilliant testament to the site and its residents, but it’s also an invaluable one-stop reference to what was there before, since I was working in the now empty land.” 2. PATTI SMITH: CAMERA SOLO (YALE UNIVERSITY PRESS, 2011) “Memories and tokens, arranged in Smith’s own world, across a million cities. It makes living like I have been a little less lonely when you think of women like Smith carrying her…

1. The eye area has 22 moving muscles and they’re among the fastest moving in our body. 2. We blink on average 10,000 times per day. 3. The skin around the eye area is about 40 per cent thinner than elsewhere, which is why it has a tendency to show dark circles. 4. For 84 per cent of women the first signs of ageing show up as wrinkles around their eyes, according to a 2006 study. 5. There are fewer oil glands surrounding the eye, which is why maintaining hydration is key. 6. Fine lines and wrinkles can start to form as early as our 20s. 7. Photo-ageing accounts for as much as 80 per cent of ageing. To protect the eye area, apply sunscreen and invest in polarised sunglasses.…

At 29, Margot Robbie has built one of the most impressive nascent careers on screen, thanks to star turns in The Wolf of Wall Street, Suicide Squad and, more recently, I, Tonya, which she also produced. But her new role as actress Sharon Tate, who was killed in the Charles Manson murders in 1969, is set to propel her to even greater heights. In Quentin Tarantino’s ninth and penultimate film, Once Upon A Time in … Hollywood, Robbie is both mesmerising and energetic opposite her one-time film star neighbour Rick Dalton (played by Leonardo DiCaprio) and his stunt double Cliff Booth (Brad Pitt), who are clinging to the final days of cinema’s golden age. On a recent Friday in Los Angeles, Tarantino, the Academy Award-, Golden Globe- and BAFTA-winning director,…

At last look, Instagram posts tagged with #JOMO – or joy of missing out – numbered 118,000. Meanwhile #FOMO (fear of missing out, for those who may have missed just a little too much in the last few years) surpassed this four-fold, with a total 526,000 posts. An ongoing battle has been brewing on internet listicles and in agonised texts between friends: should I stay in, or should I go out? What’s weighing on us heavily on social media could be hinting at a little truth: when we’re tempted to turn off all notifications, we might actually have more fun when we go out. And no wonder. Several scientific studies have revealed that the quality of our social interactions are one of our single biggest health predictors – one found…

BAWAH RESERVE, RIAU ISLANDS THERE ARE FEW phrases in the holiday vocabulary that can be uttered with the same hushed thrill as ‘private island’. Private islands are for Richard Branson, members of the Onassis family and Julia Roberts (if rumours are true). For the most part, they are not for us laypeople. Except now, where you can secure a stay at Bawah Reserve. Three hundred kilometres north-east of Singapore, Bawah Reserve lies in an Indonesian archipelago that encompasses 250 islands with only 50,000 inhabitants. Such numerical factoids are impressive, if difficult to fathom, at least until we actually embark on the journey to Bawah. My husband and I fly into Singapore and stay the night in the city; the next morning we head to the port to catch a ferry…