Indholdsfortegnelse for January 2020 i Vogue Australia

BILLIE SMOLENAERS “It’s always been a dream of mine to shoot for Vogue ,” says Melbourne-based model Billie ‘Smolsy’ Smolenaers, who travelled to Sydney’s famed Palm Beach for the fashion feature ‘Now wave’, from page 124. Shooting her first-ever story for Vogue for an issue focussed on sustainability, diversity, creativity and innovation was an opportunity Smolenaers says she will never forget. “[It was] so much fun having a shoot with a group of girls, all from different backgrounds and different ethnicities,” she says. “It felt like we were one big family.” WILL DAVIDSON For this issue, celebrated fashion photographer Will Davidson travelled to Western Australia’s beautiful Kimberley region to shoot ‘Life aquatic’ starring Charlee Fraser, from page 104. “The light rises differently in Kuri Bay,” he says of the remote…

PURE AND SIMPLE Marlene Dietrich-meets-David Bowie was the point of inspiration from which Ian Griffiths designed the Max Mara resort ’20 collection. A prevalence of white – Griffiths’s shorthand for resort wear – worked to soften structure just enough, readying sharp shapes for more casual settings. INTO THE BLUE Think twice before abandoning suiting for summer. Albus Lumen’s latest iteration, this time in breathable linen, proves that soft tailoring can endure in spite of a seasonal change. For added versatility, consider wearing as separates (slip on shorts instead of trousers; swap out the jacket for a camisole) and keep in the spirit by teaming with flats. CORAL BRIEF Earthy shades like terracotta and ochre pervaded resort collections across the world, and Hermès’s offering was no exception. For resort, the maison…

“I KNOW SO many other women would have looked at me and thought: ‘We’re really similar, I’m going to look so cool as well,’” explains Cameron Stephens, the 18-year-old model who walked five shows at last year’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia and stars in ‘Now wave’, from page 124 in this issue. After a snap decision to attend an open casting call for inclusive clothing label Good American (co-founded by Khloe Kardashian) in 2018 landed her a coveted spot in the Good Squad, as the brand dubs its models, Stephens signed a contract with IMG Sydney in March last year. “I was one of the first curve models signed. It was gratifying that they wanted to have a change in the agency,” says Stephens, who had never considered modelling before.…

“IT STARTED AS a need to record feelings, imagery, words and moments in time,” explains Amber Symond of Common Hours, the elegant loungewear-inspired label she launched in 2019 which brings her inner thoughts, diary-like, out into the open through clothing. Although it’s a deeply personal approach, and one that requires Symond to wear the proverbial heart on her sleeve, it’s also a way for the designer to take her memories and invite others to share them. As she reflects: “Why not incorporate all those things into the fabric of this garment that I could wear?” Symond developed Common Hours for two years, with the made-to-order brand centring around the robe, an item typically relegated to the home. But for Symond, whose appreciation for the garment transcends limited associations with sleep,…

1. ON BEAUTY (PENGUIN BOOKS, 2005) BY ZADIE SMITH “A beautifully written book about family relationships and how one man’s actions affect an entire family.” 2. LONE DOVE (PERIMETER EDITIONS, 2019) BY BEC PARSONS “Shooting this project [documenting model and equestrienne Lauren Devaney and her family’s bi-annual visit to a ranch in Colorado] has changed the way I see the world. I fell in love with the Devaney family and the world around them; feeling such a wonderful connection to nature made me move from the city to the country, so I too could feel that connection on a daily basis.” 3. THE EARTH SPEAKS: AN ACCLIMATIZATION JOURNAL (THE INSTITUTE FOR EARTH EDUCATION, 1983) BY STEVE VAN MATRE “A beautiful collection of writings about our Earth, making you feel truly…

IT IS 30°C on Saturday at Glastonbury Festival in Somerset, England, and Lizzo is leading a sea of 30,000 people in a self-help affirmation. “I want you to know that if you can love me, you can love your goddamn self,” Lizzo says. “I want you to go home tonight and look in the mirror and say: ‘I love you, you are beautiful and you can do anything.” The crowd roars it back at her: “I love you! You are beautiful! You can do anything!” It’s the kind of call-and-response that seems cheesy on paper – straight out of the modern pop-star handbook about how to endear yourself to audiences – but coming from Lizzo, it’s an almost spiritual experience. It is helped, of course, by the fact that she…

IMAGINE YOUR BEAUTY routine in the not-too-distant future. Your favourite jar of age-reversing serum is almost empty. So you take a small scalpel, prick your finger, transfer a few droplets of blood onto a tiny microchip and courier it via drone to your preferred beauty lab. There, your blood cells will be reprogrammed into baby skin cells, then supercharged in a personalised serum and air-dropped back to you. For now, it’s a sci-fi scenario that biohackers – and beauty journalists – can only fantasise about. However, recent breakthroughs in biotechnology are keeping our dreams of smooth-skinned immortality alive. The desire to rejuvenate our skin, repair age-weary bodies, cure disease and sidestep suffering is as old as humankind, but significant scientific breakthroughs this century have given rise to a new era…

A juggernaut in the making, Adut Akech embodies values that are universal in scale, but human in practice. As someone who holds certain ideals close to heart, she is of the opinion that models can, and should, use their platforms to contribute to meaningful discussion. Akech has chosen to share her spotlight, using her influence and global following to encourage us to bear witness to the plight of refugees. It is an experience shared by millions worldwide, and something she knows first-hand, as a South Sudanese refugee who fled to Adelaide from a United Nations camp in Kenya as a child, although it is seldom discussed in the lofty realms of fashion. Above all, she believes the world should be a place for kindness, paying forward the mentorship she has…

Emma Watson and I are sitting knee to knee on the plushest sofa in the Royal Suite at London’s Savoy hotel. Ten minutes ago she greeted me with a sisterly hug, and since then I’ve not been able to shake the feeling that we’re at school and about to do the Christmas show together. We ask for the room to be cleared so we can talk freely, but there are still a dozen or more assistants, stylists and crew hidden behind a wall of light, filming us on camera, still and silent, like the antique bronze cupids posing on the mantelpiece. But Emma seems okay with the set-up. I suppose she’s been watched almost her entire life. The story of how Watson became one of the most recognisable women on…

It takes 2,700 litres of water to make a cotton T-shirt; almost 50 kilograms of raw materials to make faded jeans, and more than 70 kilograms of raw materials to create a viscose dress. Our clothes carry a heavy footprint. Waste, heavy metals, pesticides, plastics, global transport – the fashion industry is responsible for 20 per cent of the world’s wastewater discharges and 10 per cent of carbon dioxide emissions. In the face of these negative effects, the sector has started an ecological transformation. Case in point: in July 2019, Stockholm fashion week was cancelled to focus on finding a less polluting model. Responding to this issue, last May French President Emmanuel Macron charged François-Henri Pinault, president of the Kering group (Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Boucheron, Bottega Veneta and Alexander…

US FASHION ICON Tommy Hilfiger rounded out his recent trip to Australia with an intimate dinner, hosted by Vogue Australia, at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne. Shortly after arrivals, Jessica Mauboy performed an iteration of her single Little Things for Hilfiger and his wife Dee, which reverberated around the vast Federation Court, giving all in attendance goose bumps. Guests, including designers such as Mary Lou Ryan, Gary Theodore and Margie Woods, as well as actress Olivia DeJonge, were then seated in the Great Hall for an elegant but relaxed dinner that was also illuminated by soft shades Hilfiger’s signature red, white and blue.…

There’s nothing like an anniversary to make you reflect about where you’ve been and where you’re going. Vogue Australia’s recent 60th birthday celebrations did just that. Many of my team had the opportunity to sift through the archives at the New South Wales State Library (which houses a full collection of issues from 1959), and each time they returned to the office wonderstruck by the work of decades past and brimming with ideas about how to push the magazine forward. Which is good timing, because not only are we at the dawn of a new year, but also a new decade. While it has been incredible to reflect upon the amazing and enduring legacy of this brand with our 60th, Vogue Australia has always been about celebrating innovation and driving…

FASHION WUNDERKIND MAGGIE Hewitt doesn’t believe in a reality where women will stop buying clothes. She is, however, determined to live in one where they minimise the impact of their purchases. “Fashion is not inherently bad,” the designer states over the phone to Vogue from her native New Zealand, where she has helmed her ready-to-wear label Maggie Marilyn since 2016. “It’s the pace and the way we manufacture,” she explains. At a time when the young are straining to get political leaders to heed their calls for sustainability, and the repercussions of refusals to do so are in plain sight (such as the destruction of the Amazon and Great Barrier Reef), there’s risk that pushing for changes to the fashion industry could fall on deaf ears among those in the…

1. “I adored Call Me by Your Name by Luca Guadagnino. I have watched it half a dozen times. Lost in Translation also resonates with me. I had a weird experience in Tokyo when I was there alone and I felt lost and like a complete alien. Sofia Coppola perfectly captured this feeling. [I also love] The Royal Tenenbaums ; this film was pivotal for me. The characters, the costumes, the music, the plot … I am a big Wes Anderson fan.” 2. “I am incredibly honoured to collaborate with Ancient Greek Sandals. For a traveller like me, they are such a great staple and we have created something special together. I travelled to Tangier in Morocco to gather inspiration for my resort collection and for this project. We looked…

SUBTLE NOTES On paper, graphic liner, a copper pout and even the artful placement of blush against the temples might read overdone, but on application it’s as cool as it is effortless. SMOOTH TRANSITION It goes almost undetected, but the subtle blending of lip shades – from wine to cherry-red – is all you need to reinvent a classic. SHAPE SHIFTER The best way to frame a natural brow and a sweep of shadow? With an architectural chop that adds dimension and effortless edge. QUIET ACHIEVER It’s not all about high-impact hues. Muted tones, like dusty pink, copper and nude, pack a punch in shiny and matte finishes. SPEAK VOLUMES A rouge lip is classic, but for a modern update press a metallic pigment on top. Keep the rest minimal…

1. “My favourite podcast is Oprah’s SuperSoul conversations. However, I’m more into books – 101 Essays That Will Change the Way You Think by Brianna Wiest is my mindful bible.” 2. “In LA, I head to Press Brothers Juicery & Kitchen for my daily dose of goodness. It’s such a cool spot to hang out and has a really relaxed vibe – a definite hidden gem in the Hollywood Hills!” 3. “I love my sauna and swim routine, which I usually do at Bondi Icebergs. A 15-minute sauna followed by two laps of the pool, repeated twice, is the ideal routine and I like to do this two or three times a week.” 4. “Fluidform Pilates two to three times a week is my non-negotiable. I’m so lucky that my…

This collection was designed to celebrate not only the clients but also the seamstresses, the muses, all the women that were part of the history of the house of Dior: in the past, in the present and for the future,” Maria Grazia Chiuri told Vogue after the haute couture autumn/winter’19/’20 show. She had just presented the collection at the house’s physical and spiritual home at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris, where Monsieur Dior had set up shop in 1946. The return to this setting was inspired by her cogitations on the writings of architect Bernard Rudofsky, as Chiuri embarked on writing yet another chapter of Dior’s story, wherein women are the central protagonists. Since her arrival at the French fashion house in September 2016, when she debuted T-shirts with slogans…

Stephanie* is sitting in front of her laptop, typing out an email to a co-worker in the London office of her sales team. The email is not an urgent one, but Stephanie knows that it will make everyone’s lives easier if she responds now – at 5am on her day off. She was feeding her baby, but quickly hands her 18-month-old son her phone to distract him while she types away on her computer. Alice*, who works at an advocacy firm, is also taking care of a child – her manager’s daughter. She understands that babysitting after hours will mean her manager can stay back at the office, and the report she is working on will be out faster. Emily* works in public relations. Her office has been without a…

I MET DAN at university. I was mesmerised by his raw talent as a law student and grew to love his sharp wit and sweet vulnerability. He’d recently come out as a young gay man and seemed unsure of himself. Over that summer I introduced him to my friends, who embraced him. In our little gang, he blossomed into a gorgeous, confident law graduate, later becoming a barrister. After uni I went off to live overseas. When I returned home I was soon back doing karaoke in Dan’s living room. Then one day, after 16 years of friendship, Dan cancelled me. I suppose it was the friendship he cancelled. But it felt so damn personal, so one-sided and so final (he didn’t respond to my initial peace offerings – we…

ON THE RUNWAY, all is dark. Phoebe Philo is about to make her debut for Céline. Most guests have their hands in their laps, not on their phones – Instagram is another year off and the iPhone is on iteration three. It’s the moment people will begin talking about Philo, and not stop. After the show, Sasha Pivovarova or Carmen Kass or Natasha Poly will be captured by Scott Schuman and Tommy Ton. They will be wearing distressed, studded Balmain leather jackets as they walk past Julia Sarr-Jamois, who punches something into her Blackberry and greets Hanneli Mustaparta in colour-blocked garb. Marc Jacobs is at Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière is ensconced at Balenciaga and Frida Giannini has five years left at Gucci. Vogue blares the indelicate headline ‘Gender bender’ for…

RECENTLY, PETER RITCHIE had one of those clear-cut moments of knowing he was doing something right. As executive director of Australians in Film (AiF), he was in the crowd at the organisation’s eighth annual AiF Gala and Benefit Dinner, held in October in Los Angeles, when one comment hit home. Actor Sarah Snook was on stage accepting a Screen Australia Breakthrough Award and revealed that winning felt like having the country in her corner. “That was really beautiful in my eyes, that it feels like a whole country is behind her, and supporting her,” Ritchie says. It was particularly poignant, he says, because at its very core that is the purpose of AiF – to lend support to Australia’s creative talent and bring them together on the other side of…

OUTSIDE ADVANTAGE Everyone knows getting active releases endorphins, but researchers have found that exercising outdoors can boost those happy hormones more than first thought. A recent study found that as little as five minutes of open-air training improved self-esteem and mood (interestingly, the presence of water boosted these effects). Moreover, shifting your workout from the gym to the park not only naturally lowers stress levels, it’s also proven to keep us motivated to exercise in the long run. Better still, listen to music – another known stress-reliever – to boost the feelgood factor while breaking a sweat. STRESS FACTOR If you’ve ever had a breakout around a work deadline, you’ll be well versed on the effects of stress on your complexion. The body’s biological response to stress sets off an…

“AUSTRALIANS HAVE LONG-HAUL travel built into their DNA,” says Philip Capps, head of product and service at Qantas. He’s not mistaken. There’s more than 13,000 kilometres between Melbourne and Rio de Janeiro. It’s over 15,000 kilometres from Adelaide to Rome. And between Sydney and Paris there’s a land and sea expanse of nearly 17,000 kilometres. Frequent traveller or otherwise, you’ve probably received the customary “You flew for how many hours?” from someone somewhere in the world when you make mention of your valiant efforts to travel outside of our island nation. Another universal truth? Jet lag is a given. Severe tiredness, irregular hunger patterns, mood swings, difficulty concentrating, indigestion and, perhaps most frustratingly, insomnia are among the long list of physical symptoms associated with long-haul travel. However, to efficiently curb…

Two words flash up on my screen as I refresh the news: ‘Not today.’ As Queensland and New South Wales burned-up in flames in November, the words were uttered by New South Wales Premier Gladys Berejiklian alongside our Prime Minister Scott Morrison when they were asked about climate change: “Not today.” “Now is not the time.” “We’re not here to talk about that.” We’ve heard this rhetoric from leaders before, phrases that are filling Australia’s youth with despair. As I write this, the thick, hot air outside my home is an eerie, walnut glow from the 300-plus fires that burn across Australia. But my view is not nearly as extraordinary compared to the fluorescent orange Blade Runner 2049 -like blanket that envelops northern New South Wales. I read a meteorologist’s…

Sinéad Burke never imagined she’d visit Australia. Having grown up the eldest of five children in Dublin, Ireland and been born with achondroplasia (a form of dwarfism), long-distance travel, let alone an antipodean adventure, was an unlikely prospect. “And not even because airports and planes are inaccessible,” she says, “but because I didn’t even begin to realise that people in Australia would have some sort of interest in my ideas or what I had to say.” And yet over three days in October, Burke, who stands just 105.5 centimetres tall, not only made the journey to our shores, she headlined an entire fashion festival where every event she spoke at was a packed house. To borrow the headline from last year’s September issue of UK Vogue , which was guest-edited…

“HE WAS A very curious man and I think that he would be very, very interested in Seoul,” Maria Giulia Maramotti muses of her grandfather and founder of the Max Mara brand, Achille Maramotti. We are seated in the newly opened Duccio Grassi-designed Max Mara flagship store, rendered in Ceppo stone with gleaming brass finishes, in the South Korean capital’s humming Gangnam district, cars inching by on the wide boulevard outside. The scene is worlds apart from the cobbled streets and constellation of terracotta buildings of Reggio Emilia, the ancient Roman town in the north of Italy where the label was founded and is still based. “He was very open to evolution. He was never nostalgic,” continues the label’s scion, and vice-president of Max Mara’s US retail operations and global…

AQUARIUS 21 JANUARY–18 FEBRUARY Life goes into overdrive now, so aim to be as fit and ready for action on the inside as you appear on the surface. Home could be erratic, and while you thrive on unpredictability, maintain a dialogue that others can keep up with. Confusion over love and money may arise, being clear about your values is essential. STYLE ICON: Emma Roberts PISCES 19 FEBRUARY–20 MARCH You might experience what feels like a total eclipse of the heart, which reveals a need for a new approach if you’re looking for love, or that brings a breakthrough in a creative aim. The outcome will be the right path, even if it feels uncomfortable at first. Speaking diplomatically could make you a major force for change at work. STYLE…