Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2020 i Vogue Australia

I am by nature an optimist and I’ve always looked to the future, which probably comes with the territory when you work in fashion, but lately my resolve has been tested. I returned to work in mid-January to find traumatised staff. At Vogue our hearts and thoughts are with all those affected by the fires, and especially those who have lost loved ones, and our thanks are with the brave firefighters and volunteers who have risked everything to protect us. Australians are resilient – we have to be to live in what can be one of the most inhospitable places on the planet – but this summer has pushed us to the limit. The summer began with us celebrating 60 years of Vogue and welcoming our colleagues from British Vogue…

1. “I’m in love with 070 Shake’s voice. She’s becoming big now and I’m so happy for her. She walked for a Koché show and did a concert for our after-party two years ago, and it was spectacular!” 2 “I was lucky enough to spend time this summer in an unknown part of Tanzania among all of these wild species. It’s crazy to understand how vulnerable we can be. I need nature, like everybody living in a big city. It brings us back to our origins.” 3. “I took a long time to read the diary of Simone de Beauvoir, [given it’s] more than 2,000 pages long. It was another time, another context, but I am stunned by how modern she was. The way she fought for women is an…

HIGH TOPS Teamed with a poker-straight fringe and pulled into a slick ponytail, a textbook plait takes on an architectural edge. ONE FOR ALL Worn as sky-high pigtails or understated and sleek, the versatility of plaits mean they’re as imperfect as you make them. BRIGHT SPARK Punchy colours need not be assigned solely to the sartorial. For an adventurous new turn, take a leaf from this season’s runways by introducing temporary (or if you dare, permanent) hues to your tresses. KNOT YOUR AVERAGE Hairstylist Kim Seung Won interlaced fuchsia extensions – randomly knotted into each section of hair – to deliver a touch of drama. PERFECT PARTNERS The best accessory to a plaited masterpiece? Dramatic make-up, of course, with interesting shapes and a painter’s palette of hues encouraged.…

1. “Whenever I go back to my home town of Naples, I love the spontaneity there that you don’t get living in a big city. When you’re in Naples, you call a friend and they’re like: ‘Okay, I’ll see you in 10 minutes.’ The day can unfold in a very unexpected way, which I have not seen in many other cities.” 2. “I’ll go on Instagram – sometimes just to see what’s happening, and to check in on what people and friends are doing – but apart from that I’m not really an app addict. I prefer to look at architecture, houses and design.” 3. “I’m inspired by travel. I like to get out of my everyday life or life at the studio and go out with a photographer. That…

AS WE STAGGER blinking and numb into this new decade, there may be no more appropriate summation of where we’re at as a species than the latest Silicon Valley trend: dopamine fasting. If you haven’t heard the term, the ethos is this: the reason why so many of us spend our days unproductively scrolling, overwhelmed and burnt out, is that our brains have become hooked on low-quality triggers of the neurotransmitter dopamine. It’s not our fault, it’s our neurochemistry that has us reaching for our phones, spending money we don’t have and making endless plans we don’t want to keep. The solution, according to a slew of San Fran-adjacent psychologists, is a detox. Fasting from dopamine stimulants, including but not limited to sex, social media and even stimulating music, can…

Clare Press: “What does activism mean to you? Moreblessing, you’re the only one among us who uses the word in your Instagram bio.” Moreblessing Maturure: “I remember when the phrase ‘alt right activist’ started being used to describe neo-Nazis, and going through my whole digital presence and removing the word ‘activist’. Recently, I reconsidered. I now list activist first. A big part of my practice is that, and I got a lot of this from Black Lives Matter – not everyone can be on the front line.” Varsha Yajman: “I actually don’t call myself an activist. I am a normal teenager. A lot of my friends, who don’t do interviews or media, do exactly what I do [in terms of climate action].” Isabella Wiggs: “To me, an activist is someone…

It was the second week of 2020 and a large portion of the Australian eastern seaboard was burning. Catastrophic fires covering more than 10 million hectares had devastated entire ecosystems and townships. Meanwhile, trapped families were huddling together, holding vigil in the bays of beaches, waiting for the ash to stop falling like rain; for the sky to fade from its surreal, apocalyptic red. For help to come. In capital cities on the east coast, the smoke was so strong people slept with their windows shut. The air quality in Canberra peaked at 25 times above what is considered hazardous. It was the same week that US President Donald Trump, in the middle of an impeachment process, ordered the assassination of Qassem Soleimani, a hugely popular military commander in Iran.…

A flash mob made up of Vogue readers descended on Sydney’s Bondi Beach to celebrate Vogue’s 60th anniversary on December 12, 2019. Moonlighting as Vogue’s editor-in-chief, comedian Celeste Barber gathered guests to Bondi’s iconic Icebergs pool for a special voguing performance led by House of Slé’s Bhenji Ra and a supporting dance crew. The event concluded with an intimate performance by Australian pop star Jessica Mauboy. Afterwards, the festivities continued onboard Ahoy Club’s Mischief superyacht, where Australia’s pre-eminent designers, joined by special guest British Vogue editor-in-chief, Edward Enninful, took in Sydney’s beautiful harbour.…

CLEAN SWEEP Minimalism has again gotten under the skin of designers who are invoking the simplicity of the 90s mainstay. Try the freedom of an uncomplicated palette cleanser on for size, like a soft ecru head to toe. WRAP MUSIC Enclosed in a blaze of carmine wool, rapper and all-round musical talent Milan Ring lights the way when it comes to the new knits, which should be upbeat in colour and comforting in shape: choose those that hug the body in a wrap of snugness. FLOWER CHILD Just as Ring nods to her predecessors of the 70s – Quincy Jones, Stevie Wonder, Jimi Hendrix – in her music, take on the earthy spirit and sunny outlook of the era in garden-fresh floral prints best offset with a dose of tie-dye.…

JORDAN DALAH THINKS about clothing in a way that an artist thinks about painting. “You start off with an undercoat of paint [in art], which is like an underwear layer,” he says. “You lock everything in, and slowly adorn a canvas with all these rich colours.” Having grown up interested in Tudor style, both in clothing and in art, his debut spring/summer ’20 collection sways between each medium, often blurring the two. “The way the Tudor person gets dressed from underwear and corsetry … and then, how they adorn their body with deep reds and greens, the two seem really in sync,” he says. Born in Australia, 27-year-old Dalah graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2017. His mother nurtured his instinct for design and, taking him shopping with her,…

IT’S FORTUNATE THAT Milly Alcock isn’t one to shy away from profanity, because the opening scene of Upright, the Australian drama she starred in last December alongside actor and comedian Tim Minchin, required her to unleash the swearing. “I remember reading it, and being like: ‘Fuck, yeah.’ I think I say ‘fuck’ six times,’” she says with a laugh, speaking to Vogue in her home town of Sydney. “I do swear a lot in real life, but not in the way that [my character] Meg uses swear words as a deflection. I think it’s quite a common Australian thing … casual swearing.” Her role as misfit Meg in the highly successful local production was not Alcock’s debut, but the first role that’s earned her attention – and deservedly so. She…

MOST PEOPLE WOULD baulk at the thought of transforming their personal hardships into catchy anthems for others to connect with. Not Thelma Plum. For the 25-year-old Gamilaraay woman, making music is a form of healing. “There’s something so beautiful and therapeutic about being able to channel your pain and trauma into an art form,” she says. “It’s a lot easier for me to look at a situation and evaluate what I’m actually feeling if I write those words down.” Born in Brisbane, Plum grew up listening to country artists who would later help to hone her sound, which she identifies as indie-pop. Kasey Chambers, Dolly Parton, Joni Mitchell and Gillian Welch were especially impactful, helping Plum to develop a formula for her song-writing. Inspired by their composition, Plum wrote her…

1. KATE BIEL: “Kate Biel’s soft and fluffy medium-format film photos are colour-corrected for the gods. Kate’s work is pop and feminine, and although innocent, is also inherently alien; it’s peculiar when you look closer. My favourite of Kate’s work is what she takes into Photoshop and pushes into an even more fantastical alien realm. This is where her work turns into art.” 2. CHRIS MAGGIO: “I found Chris on Instagram after seeing a wild photo he took of Pamela Anderson for Balenciaga. His work is mostly documentary photography and it’s pure genius. He takes some of the coolest photos I’ve ever seen, hands down. There’s a lot of humour in his work as he digs to expose the secret inner workings of culture and the outward hilarious reality of…

IT’S TELLING THAT among the first things you’ll notice about a Henry Rose fragrance is either the sleek, minimalist design (in transparent recyclable glass) or the intoxicating blend of botanicals. Less transparent is the fact the five-piece collection is the result of almost a decade of research and development spearheaded by Hollywood actress Michelle Pfeiffer. “I developed Henry Rose to prove you could create a premium product that doesn’t sacrifice luxury over safety,” says Pfeiffer, a closet fragrance devotee who tinkered with the line of genderless scents offering full disclosure of ingredients for years before the range was eventually stocked at Goop. “Our goal was to create a sensory experience that wasn’t overly precious” The celebrity fragrance vapour trail might have been paved by J Lo’s Glow or Sarah Jessica…

PIERRE-ALEXIS DUMAS , Hermès artistic director and sixth-generation family member, is feeling nostalgic. He’s handling an almost century-old pocket-sized mirror, which the brand’s namesake founder Thierry Hermès, designed and gave to his wife to assist with her morning make-up application. “Apparently she spent a little bit too much time putting on make-up, so he added a little clock, which she immediately spotted,” Dumas reveals from the brand’s Parisian headquarters. “When we started to talk about beauty, I remember I brought that object out of my office and said: ‘The idea of beauty has been looking at us all this time, we just didn’t see it.’” After more than three years in development, the French luxury house synonymous with craftsmanship and fastidious attention to detail now has its gaze firmly set…

An intimate supper hosted at the harbourside home of Justin Hemmes in Sydney, New South Wales, concluded Vogue’s 60th anniversary celebrations. Guests including past cover stars Lorde, Adut Akech and Gemma Ward, gathered at the property reimagined by NIDA graduates who assisted in the production design. Throughout the evening, attendees enjoyed sets by DJ Flex Mami and Electric Fields, as well as performances by Thelma Plum and Kate Miller-Heidke. As Moët & Chandon flowed, the stylish set enjoyed canapés by Danielle Alvarez, head chef of Merivale’s Fred’s, and were lensed by photographer Hugh Stewart to commemorate the night. The event was made possible by the New South Wales Government and Destination NSW.…

STEPHANIE YAZBEK “Evolutionary dreamscapes from the runway,” is how Stephanie Yazbek, a Sydney-based graphic artist, describes the collages she was excited to create for this issue, from page 82. “With the brief in mind, I’ll have images and ideas flood my mind, then go from there,” Yazbek explains of her process. “I try not to think or plan too much; I let myself go by feeling.” Music, art, architecture, travel and film are among the artist’s inspirations. “I play around and have fun with layered images and scapes until a world is created on the pages in front of me.” ELAINE WELTEROTH It should come as no surprise that Elaine Welteroth, the award-winning journalist who was crowned the youngest editor in Condé Nast history when she took the helm of…

FOR SYDNEY CREATIVE Milan Ring, last year was a milestone: she went a whole year without buying anything new, and that’s to say little of her musical triumphs as a singer, songwriter, producer, rapper and multi-instrumentalist. “I wanted to minimise my possessions and my environmental footprint and not cave in to the fast-fashion culture. I’m really not about it,” says Ring, which makes her the perfect ambassador for a season filled with feelgood clothing. The 29-year-old’s music has an equally good-times feel, with undulating synth-inflected R&B in which you can hear traces of her musical heroes growing up – Aaliyah, Jimi Hendrix (she’s a dedicated guitar aficionado, practising almost every day), Prince and Nas (her dog is named after the New York rapper). With an optimist’s world view that anything…

IT IS NO more than five degrees in wintry Milan on a January day, but at least in Paul Andrew’s mind, the sun is always shining. “I love to be outside in the heat, with the sun and the blue sky,” he says. “I find that so uplifting and inspiring.” Given he grew up in England, it’s unsurprising he has honed the skill of mentally simulating warmth with aplomb. He is thinking of the summertime in his house in Connecticut, New England, where he retreats to gain inspiration for the six collections he designs each year in his role as creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo. That is, when he’s not commuting between the US and Florence, where the heritage house is headquartered since its establishment in 1927. The designer founded…

HER NAME MIGHT not be instantly familiar, but Melina Matsoukas’s show-reel tells a different story. The 39-year-old director behind such music videos as Beyoncé’s Formation , Rihanna’s We Found Love and Lady Gaga’s Just Dance has bagged two Grammys for her powerful storytelling through music. This month, she makes her big-screen debut with Queen & Slim , a richly shot drama that sees two African-Americans (played by Get Out’s Daniel Kaluuya as Slim and newcomer Jodie Turner-Smith as Queen) flung into a speed chase when a Tinder date results in the death of a white police officer after he pulls the pair over. Matsoukas says even though she grew up “an MTV baby”, bringing a feature-length script to life was always her end game, and she teamed up with Lena…

TAYLA VLAEMINCK IS one of Australia’s most talented young cricketers, despite only taking up the sport when she was 14. As a child she was a keen soccer player, but experience with the bat and ball only extended as far as playing with her brother in the family backyard. Now one of the best pace bowlers in Australia’s women’s T20 team, Vlaeminck can reach speeds around 120 kilometres per hour. “My dad tried to coach me, but I was pretty erratic,” she says of her humble suburban start. “I definitely didn’t have much of a base to go on.” While her talent was raw, what Vlaeminck did have was a role model. Just a few years earlier, schoolgirl Ellyse Perry dominated headlines when, at the tender age of 16, she…

LIVING OUT LOUD Maximalists rejoice: the new approach calls for all manner of conversation-starting hues for eyes, lips, cheeks and beyond. ON MUTE They may whisper their arrival, but a dewy complexion, balmy lips and second-skin tints speak volumes on application.…

FRESH START If hairstylists this season taught us anything, it’s that even the most enduring hairstyles can be spun in a fresh new way. Case in point: the humble ballerina bun, which showed up at a handful of shows, including Emilia Wickstead and Elie Saab, was teamed with imaginative twists and experimental heights. “I wanted to make something really graphic and strong so it had a lot of 90s influence to it,” noted Jon Reyman, who created the slicked back buns that sat atop models heads at Marta Jakubowski. “We had a tight bun and made the rest straight and shiny.” Full-blown shine was also the reason the low and sleek ponytails at Proenza Schouler and Christopher Kane felt new, while among the various styles at Chanel – some centre-parted,…

“Never.” Pierpaolo Piccioli is weighing in on whether an haute couture idea is ever abandoned for being too difficult. “It is never too much. Here, it was the idea of embroidering, not on the dress but so it was floating around the dress so it’s like a dream, almost 3D. It moves,” he says pulling a sprig of silver, atop which sits a tiny rose-coloured flower. The gown in front of him jangles in response. The delicate floret is one of hundreds springing from a look that is part of a couture collection he is showing in Beijing the next day. En masse , they complete the jaw-dropping effect of blurring the silhouette. Like a cloud of flowers. “Do you like it?” he asks, posing a question that seems too…

ARIES 21 MARCH–20 APRIL You’re ready to dive into new plans and rock a bolder look this month. Explore a different approach to health, too. Money comes in abundantly but may go out just as fast. With changes socially and around your work, consider involving friends with your career or elevating a co-worker to BFF status. STYLE ICON: Jessica Chastain TAURUS 21 APRIL–21 MAY A spot of clear thinking gets you into the mindset to achieve anything you want to this month. Your powers of attraction are high now too, but you’re in no mood for time-wasters so, solo or spoken for, raise the bar on romantic requirements. At work, angle for extra study or training to help you up the corporate ladder. STYLE ICON: Behati Prinsloo GEMINI 22 MAY–21…