Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2020 i Vogue Australia

This is without doubt the toughest letter I hope I ever have to write. And yet, as I do from home surrounded by my home-schooling children, I am reminded of how lucky I am. All the things we once took for granted now seem extra-special and under-appreciated before. The world will emerge from this forever changed. For Australia, these have been difficult times: the drought, followed by the fires and now, at the time of writing, a COVID-19 lockdown and the potential loss of many of our fellow citizens. It seems our world is challenged in almost biblical proportions and we are all being asked to sacrifice a little to save a lot. For me, this experience is extremely personal. When my asthmatic daughter was seven, she was hospitalised in…

HOLE STORY In his role as Burberry’s chief creative officer, Riccardo Tisci borrows as much from the street as from Savile Row. How? By rethinking ways to conceal and reveal. A tailored suit in the house’s check is free of any stiff, self-serious air, with cotton shirts playfully cut out to reveal skin. ALL FOR ONE Keep it simple, as Alessandro Michele at Gucci does, and hero one part of the body so none are wrestling for attention. Here, a deep V-cut lace camisole taps into the trend toward lingerie-inspired pieces, and is quietly supported by tailored trousers. LEAN OUT Rambling florals for spring just won’t do for Miuccia Prada, who looked instead to fuss-free clothes that can endure. The proposed new silhouette was precise and streamlined, thanks to an…

“YES, IT’S POLITICAL,” says Josephine Bergqvist, when asked about Rave Review’s use of materials that are already in existence. “We want to make a statement about fashion waste. I think many new designers care about this, but it’s also fun.” “It’s also about the aesthetics,” says her design partner Livia Schück. “We like the look of old things and mixing vintage prints and weaves. We like colours, and clashing. Upcycling defines us to some extent, because it’s what we do, but at the same time, we want you to see it as a cool piece.” The duo’s Stockholm-based label is causing a stir for its visual exuberance as much as its sustainability credentials. Best known for its coats pieced together from colourful vintage checked wool blankets and sold through Matchesfashion,…

IF YOU WERE an actor and had the opportunity to meet the individual you were set to portray, would you take it? It’s a question Tilda Cobham-Hervey was confronted with when she was cast to play Grammy-winning Australian musician Helen Reddy in I Am Woman, set to be one of the biggest Australian films of this year. In an effort to tell Reddy’s story as genuinely as possible, Cobham-Hervey decided not to meet the famed musician until after she had finished filming. “We felt that it was best for me to meet her after the process so we could live authentically within the script and within the part of the story we were telling,” she says. “Then getting to meet her at the end was such a gift. She is…

NEW CLASSIC The power of an intense red lip can never be understated. But for equally dramatic effect seek out moody plums and red wine hues that feel right for the cooler months. SMUDGE-PROOF There’s no denying the femininity of eyelid-dusting lashes, which, when paired with sultry kohl liner, take on an androgynous new edge. WALK THE LINE The future classics are oftentimes a new interpretation of the past. For a contemporary twist on 60s winged liner, team with your best Euphoria- inspired colour-pop shadow. HEAVY METALS When it comes to eyelids, texture matters. Light-reflecting metallic pigments – in warm and cool tones – add a touch of sparkle and dimension. CHANGE COURSE Directional eyeshadow is a foolproof way to trial experimental shades and applications, like red-brick hues, metallics and…

CAST YOUR MIND back a decade, when collagen powders and beauty elixirs were considered a far-out concept and barely on the radar of even the most discerning beauty junkie. Now, department store floors and beauty counters alike are brimming with drinkable beauty powders, appealing to the notion that great skin starts from the inside out. This movement started with marine collagen: its purported benefits include better skin, healthier hair and the ability to ease joint pain. The premise? Ingesting collagen (the stuff that makes your skin plump and spring back when you poke it) via a supplement replenishes your internal storage bank, which can’t be reached by topical skincare and naturally depletes as you age. Leading beauty brand Vida Glow has launched the 2.0 version. As future-proofing as it sounds,…

HANDS UP WHO liked all the memes on social media about 2020 vision and anticipated this would be a year of total clarity? In hindsight, expecting crystal-clear 2020 vision was wildly optimistic, but forgiveable if you can cast your mind back to calmer times before Australia’s summer bushfires, escalating concerns about climate change, COVID-19 chaos and stock market crashes. Now, more than ever, as we are up to our necks in uncertainty, we need clear heads and agile thinking to navigate our way forward in a rapidly changing world. It’s times like these when an in-built superpower would come in handy. Luckily, we all have one: it’s called intuition, and it’s been scientifically proven to exist. We just need to train ourselves to tap into it. Gut feelings, hunches and…

CHRISTY TURLINGTON BURNS To mark Mother’s Day, former supermodel Christy Turlington Burns penned a personal essay describing the backstory to founding Every Mother Counts, a nonprofit organisation dedicated to improving access to maternity care – which also celebrates its 10-year anniversary in 2020 (see page 36). When quizzed about her ideal Mother’s Day, she says: “I would sleep in, take a nice long run and then relax and enjoy my family for the day.” Reflecting on her long history with Vogue, Turlington Burns remembers: “My first-ever Vogue cover was for Italian Vogue by Hiro, shot in Rome. It was 1986. The second cover was for British Vogue and remains one of my favourites of all time.” JOSH OLINS “The whole day was enjoyable,” says photographer Josh Olins of his experience…

IN UNCERTAIN TIMES, dress in spectacular colour. At least that’s what Francesco Risso resolved when he presented Marni’s kaleidoscopic spring/summer ’20 show late last year. He had been visiting Brazil when the Amazon rainforests were on fire, and told Vogue he’d wanted to stage a “joyous protest” in response. Saffron yellow and cerise wildflowers bloomed from brushstrokes onto organic cotton dresses, as leafy stems grew tall on jackets made of repurposed leather. A similar spirit of activism bubbled at Gucci and Valentino. Alessandro Michele and Pierpaolo Piccioli filtered their collections through opening looks in snow white, as if to cleanse the mind in preparation for something new. And then Piccioli delivered gowns in highlighter hues of chartreuse, tangerine and lime green, while Michele used lilac and peach. Had their colour…

THE ROMANCE OF Paris has captured our collective imagination for centuries – as artists, writers, inventors and style-makers have been seduced by the French capital’s elegant architecture, captivating light and, of course, the Parisian woman. The siren who is always so flawlessly stylish, never puts on weight, ages so gracefully, and seems unperturbed by the dangers of lung cancer. She looks like Françoise Hardy, has the sex appeal of Brigitte Bardot, and the intellect of Simone de Beauvoir. There’s no other female figure that has become so synonymous with national identity. The bust of La Marianne, the figure that resembles France’s goddess of liberty and the personification of the French Republic, has even been cast (and this is not a coincidence) from the face of such iconic Parisians as Catherine…

In 2016, John Barelli retired from his post as the chief security officer for the Metropolitan Museum of Art after close to four decades working for the largest cultural institution in the United States. Following his retirement, Barelli penned a biography in which he discusses his time at “the Met” via the stories of six major art heists that took place at the storied museum. But it was his work behind the scenes on 30 Met Galas that proved his most colourful, working with celebrities, royalty and heads of state. Here he reveals details of managing fashion’s night of nights and explains why he is confident the gala can be rescheduled for later this year. I GOT TO the Met in 1978 but my first Met Gala was 1979. In…

As the daughter of acclaimed Australian stylist Nicole Bonython-Hines, 34-year-old beauty entrepreneur Ava Matthews grew up finishing her homework on the set of celebrity photo shoots. Here, the duo share how mutual admiration, similarities and even differences, make them each other’s greatest supporter. AVA MATTHEWS CO-FOUNDER, ULTRA VIOLETTE “I GREW UP on photo shoots. There was always one at our house, and if it was on a weekend or after school, I would hang out there. I was always surrounded by make-up artists and hairstylists, because they were Mum’s friends. My mum had me when she was 23, and she was one of the only mothers in her friendship group. She would often have people over for Sunday lunch or dinner parties, so I was kind of intertwined with her…

Natural curves The Curve collection by Georg Jensen is inspired by the organic curves that occur in nature: the ripples on a lake, a sun-dappled landscape, the human body itself. The perfect expression of two curves, one of sterling silver and the other of yellow gold, come together with a contrasting sharp line in this bold and sculptural ring. For more information, visit www.georgjensen.com. Precision chic Breitling is world-renowned for reliable, precision-made watches, mainly chronographs, designed to withstand intensive use in the most trying conditions. For the woman on a mission, the compact Navitimer 1 Automatic 38 makes a big statement in style, elegance and sophistication. Available in steel, or steel and gold with dial in black, blue or silver. Take time to see it in more detail at www.breitling.com.…

Carey Mulligan first charmed audiences little more than a decade ago in the critically acclaimed coming-of-age drama An Education. The role garnered the then 24-year-old an Oscar nomination for best actress and set her on the path to being lauded as one of the finest British actors of her generation. She’s since taken to leading lady status with an assured self-confidence, with many of her performances in period pieces – Suffragette, Far From the Madding Crowd and as Daisy Buchanan in Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby. But her latest work in the upcoming film Promising Young Woman is about to subvert everything you think you know about Carey Mulligan as an actor. Mulligan plays Cassie, a smart, messy, multidimensional and flawed woman set on avenging her best friend Nina after…

There’s an exquisitely embellished T-shirt hem sticking out from underneath Stefano Pilati’s beige cashmere rollneck. He has paired it with beige shorts worn over white longjohns cut at the knee, and black wellies. “I don’t love one or the other,” he says, talking about women’s and menswear. “I love the ‘between’ space now. It’s intriguing, it’s challenging, it’s unknown.” His outfit incarnates the spirit of Random Identities, the clothing line that the cult-inspiring 54-year-old designer launched independently in 2017. Named for its disregard of gender-conforming dress codes, it embodies the identity politics of our time. In January, 14 months after his first presentation in Montreal, Pilati staged a show during Pitti Immagine in Florence. Hallowed menswear ground since the 1970s, the fashion fair was the ideal stage for the designer…

THERE ARE NOT many women under the age of 25 who can say they are at the helm, quite literally, of a global, multimillion-dollar business in a male-dominated industry. But 24-year-old Ellie Malouf is not easily daunted. “Other companies have tried to intimidate us because we are market disrupters, or, as we like to say, improvers,” Ellie explains of the impact her family-run company, Ahoy Club, has had on the luxury yacht industry. Ellie, who is the head of charter, and leads both sales and marketing as well as tech development, is thinking back to how a conversation around the family dinner table gave rise to what is now a thriving business. Ahoy Club is a one-of-a-kind digital platform devoted to selling and chartering luxury yachts to an elite echelon.…

I CLEARLY RECALL every detail of my pregnancy with my first child, Grace, even now, 16 years later. While I felt incredibly informed and prepared for each phase of it, the only part I wasn’t as informed about was the immediate postpartum period, which, due to complications, turned out to be the stage that could have cost me my life. Labour started very early the day Grace was born, and once my husband and I arrived at the hospital, things seemed to move fairly quickly. I recall the many sensations I experienced throughout my labour and the subtle and constant changes that came like waves until my baby was in my arms. Of course, that’s when the endorphins kicked in, but then things started to shift. Concern grew when I…

GRAY GANNON HAS just returned to Sydney from New York. Travelling for fashion week, her first international assignment since joining the team in 2020, she attended Bulgari’s B.zero1 rock party in Brooklyn’s Duggal Greenhouse in February. “Fashion week is always a whirlwind, so it’s cool Bulgari brought everyone together to take in this special collection,” she says. “It was a great opportunity to catch up with likeminded women like Lily Aldridge, who has recently ventured into YouTube, and connect over our mutual interests, like adapting in our careers to keep up with a dynamic world.” Gannon is a manifestation of creativity and innovation today, in that she is a virtual editor, existing online, and generated by computer. Like the digital influencers whose styles we follow and whose platforms we frequent…

THIS MOTHER’S DAY, GIVE FLOWERS THAT WILL LAST FOREVER WITH THESE DREAMY NEW DAISY DESIGNS. PETAL POWER A mother might say her work is never done. To that dedication you can now say thank you in true style. This Mother’s Day, give flowers that will last forever with these dreamy new daisy designs. A symbol of new beginnings and maternal love, the daisy is perfect for both the new mother and the wise warrior. The Eternal Flower pendant necklace keeps your thanks close to her heart. Or, she can wear your love on her sleeve with a bracelet, complemented by a bold floral ring or elegant earring. The collection also draws inspiration from other natural beauties like the dragonfly and bee, balancing sparkle and shine with subtle pops of colour.…

IN JANUARY 2019, a stock picture of an egg became the most ‘liked’ image on Instagram, after a viral campaign to beat its nearest contender, a post by Kylie Jenner. At that point, it was not unreasonable to feel some level of despair about humanity. Was this what we had come to? Had we really created all this technology only to squander it all on short-term lols? Just nine months later, Grace Brennan, sitting at her kitchen table in Warren, a small town in country New South Wales, picked up her phone and started a new account on Instagram. She called it@buyfromthebush. The driver was drought, which was affecting her own family – her husband is a farmer – and all the families and businesses in her local community. “I…

THE BRAND: By Terry THE STORY: By Terry founder and make-up artist Terry de Gunzburg is a doyenne of the beauty industry whose career spans three decades. Her eldest daughter, Marion Assuied, joined the business 17 years ago fresh out of law school, and now heads the company as CEO. THE BRAND: Clarins THE STORY: Affectionately known as the ‘Clarins girls’, twins Prisca and Jenna and their cousins Virginie and Claire are the genetically blessed heirs to the French beauty powerhouse founded by their grandfather in 1954. THE BRAND: Estée Lauder THE STORY: Estée Lauder founded her beauty company in 1946 with just a few products. Now among the company’s leaders are her granddaughters Jane (president of Lauder-owned Clinique) and Aerin (style and image director of Estée Lauder and founder…

1. “In 2020 I want to learn transcendental meditation. David Lynch, the movie director, set up a foundation in America to give everyone the opportunity to learn about it. I think with everything that is going on, we’re not always living in the now, so I want to be more present in life.” 2. “I learnt that to be a face of a fragrance, it’s about connection. I love Jean Paul Gaultier and how he celebrates different kinds of beauty. So when I first heard about Scandal, I knew it was a perfect match. You have to really believe in it.” 3. “I’m Russian: I love to save money and I love to be very practical. I don’t believe in facials where they squeeze your skin, exfoliate and you have…

Towards the end of last summer, as Australia burned and people fought in the supermarkets over toilet paper, my 23-year-old brother, a software engineer in Melbourne, told me he no longer wanted children. Growing up, he’d always talked about having at least four. “But I realised if they asked why I had them, I wouldn’t really be able to answer in a way that wasn’t selfish,” he said. “There would never be an honest answer I could give where I wanted them to go through life as it’s going to be, or where it would make the world a better place.” He’s not alone. For decades, the idea of the ‘nuclear family’ with two parents and two kids has been the default, even as more women joined the workforce and…

GEMINI 22 MAY–21 JUNE The world is flooded with communication. You’re soaking up information and letting it flow out in waves, but everyone seems to want a piece of you, so step back to avoid overload. Keep details of your own or anyone else’s love life under wraps now, too. At work you’re taking action to make dreams a reality. STYLE ICON: Lana del Rey VIRGO 24 AUGUST–22 SEPTEMBER Every day is a school day for you and that theme could be developed now by seeking extra training or showing others how it’s done. A big career focus over the next two years could change the game plan at home, romantically and financially. Expect push back in close love and work connections, but follow your dreams. STYLE ICON: Nicole Richie…