Indholdsfortegnelse for August 2020 i Vogue Australia

Astrology is a major driver of traffic on Vogue.com.au. Recently we matched star signs to wines. I am not sure how scientific the advice was, but the story was hugely popular. I think in an increasingly secular society it is interesting that in hard times audience trends suggest many of us are looking to our horoscopes for some clarity. I must confess I am sceptical. I once made the mistake of removing the horoscopes in Vogue resulting in an influx of tweets and emails from readers whom I dutifully listened to and returned the page. What troubled times these are and continue to be at the time of writing with Melbourne in a second lockdown. If Vogue’s horoscopes offer an antidote to some of our anxiety then publish more we…

I HAVE PROTESTED my whole life, starting in the Aboriginal movement in Sydney during the 1970s led by siblings Paul and Isabell Coe, Billy Craigie, many Wiradjuri Elders, Shirley ‘Mum Shirl’ Smith, Carmine and Lyall Munro Snr, Ann (Coe) and George Weldon, Lyn (Craigie) and Peter Thompson, Kaye and Bob Bellear, Naomi Mayers, Tony Coorey and Alana Coorey (Doolan), brothers Bertie and Bindi Williams, Gary Foley and Gary Williams. Our chants of “What do we want?” and “What do we get?” were never treated the same for us as Aboriginal people as they were for non-Aboriginal people. These memories remain with me because our lives mattered then and still matter now. The chants were about wanting land rights, but it was never only about land. It was always about our…

WITH FEELING  Turning inwards, there has for some been room for softening and escaping into the romantic, reflected in clothes with emotions. It’s about nostalgic shapes, airy fabrications, sheers, layers and an embrace of purity and naivety. RETURN TO GLAMOUR The bourgeois feel of recent seasons has a firm hold on all hours of our wardrobes. It’s both the details, and the overall effect of being put together, day or night. There’s glamour and joy in dressing with intent. TO HAVE FOREVER For some, a moment’s pause has calcified a lurking suspicion: the classics will transcend generations, but what do they look like? Pre-fall’s wearable, minimal lines, tailored outerwear and an easily digestible neutral palette. SEIZE-THE-DAY A significant swathe of the pre-fall collections were given over to carpe diem dressing.…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA: It’s exciting to talk you, Pandora. I’m not sure if you’re aware, but The High Low is beloved in Australia. Do you gauge the stats on global audiences? PANDORA SYKES: “Oh, that’s lovely to hear! We do have those statistics … I think about two thirds of the audience are UK, then it’s Australia, USA, Ireland and New Zealand, in that order. But I try not to give them too much attention because you can get a bit obsessed with that side.” VA: Is that because it feels overwhelming? PS: “I think it’s because we’re living in the kind of review culture where everyone is a critic now, so it’s possible to become consumed with what other people think of the work that you’re making, rather than the…

ROSIE KALINA A proud Wemba Wemba and Gunditjmara artist, with a focus on make-up artistry. FLEXMAMI AKA Lillian Ahenkan, an Australian-Ghanaian MTV presenter, DJ and podcaster. KYLEE FLEEK A self-taught Māori make-up artist and influencer known for his creative artistry. MAEVA HEIM The founder of Bread Beauty Supply who previously worked in marketing in the beauty industry. REMY RIPPON: Welcome everyone, thank you for joining us for a virtual roundtable today. You’ve all been involved in the beauty industry in some capacity. Let’s start by sharing your experiences. ROSIE KALINA: “One of my first experiences [in beauty] was an Indigenous attachment program on a production. It wasn’t a great experience. It was my first job right out of make-up school and it just felt kind of tokenistic straightaway and I…

Having only recently left her teen years behind, Adut Akech Bior carries herself with a self-possession that transcends her youthfulness. Plugged into the big conversations with a heartfelt authenticity more common in people twice her age, she has used her voice from day one of her career to demand a more inclusive fashion industry, and in 2020, she remains the same. “Adut is one of countless women at the forefront of change today. She’s a powerful voice, someone with an immense amount of strength, courage and optimism. That’s really what it’s all about, that inner power to enact change in one’s life and in our communities,” says Reed Krakoff, chief artistic officer at Tiffany & Co., the latest in a line that includes Valentino, Chanel and Saint Laurent to recognise…

GRACE DLABIK “After 23 years of being in the industry of fashion [and] pop culture, I’m finally invited to sit at the table! I plan to achieve a lot,” says Melanesian, Papua New Guinean and Austrian creative director and curator Grace Dlabik, who was enlisted as a key contributor for this issue and asked to help curate a portfolio of progressive commentators for, ‘Raising voices’ from page 92. Via her Melbourne-based company BE. One Creative, Dlabik works to give talented youth – particularly those from marginalised minorities – a platform that allows their voices to be heard. “I started the collective in response to not having these spaces when I was younger, where we could be inspired to become critical thinkers, where we could feel welcomed and a sense of…

WHEN MARIAN WRIGHT Edelman said: “You can’t be what you can’t see,” the American activist hit on the effect under-representation can have on those who don’t see themselves in mainstream media. The #VogueChallenge hashtag sees users capturing their own images and has garnered 275K posts on social media at time of writing. As individuals from all around the world have produced these covers in their entirety, often conceptualising, photographing, modelling and MARLEY MORGAN “I am a proud descendant of the Wiradjuri and Yuwaalaraay nations. I work and operate in Gumbaynggirr country. I am a mother to two boys. My work reflects my personality and my deep connection to Country and culture. I am a passionate believer in keeping culture alive through learning from it, growing by it and passing it…

HAVE YOU HEARD the phrase: ‘I shop therefore I am’? American artist Barbara Kruger borrowed it from French philosopher René Descartes for a 1987 artwork, appropriating his philosophy: ‘I think, therefore I am’. Descartes held that the only truth he knew for certain was that our minds shaped meaning into existence; he believed our thoughts were a defining characteristic of human nature. Replacing ‘think’ with ‘shop’, Kruger reclaimed his words ironically to suggest something else. Critiquing the breakneck speed at which consumerism was accelerating at that time, infiltrating day-today life, she prompted the question: in our pursuit to own so much stuff, had we lost sight of ourselves? Even as some of us are lucky enough to dust off our finery and emerge from months shut inside, time in lockdown…

SHONAE HOBSON, BENDIGO Art Gallery’s First Nations curator, faced a hard task deciding exactly how to showcase more than 100 pieces from 70 artists and designers for the new exhibition Piinpi: Contemporary Indigenous Fashion. The skill in each garment, fabric, basket or piece of jewellery – informed by more than 65,000 years of histories and culture – gives each piece the quality of artworks, and yet most are made with a modern wearer in mind. “They really blur the boundaries between fashion and art,” she says of the final selection of creators in the exhibit. “It’s really a testament to the types of work that are being produced by First Nations designers and artists who are drawing on traditional techniques and ancient practices, but through really innovative methods.” She landed…

“A COSTUME IS only a costume once the actor wears it,” says Dihantus Engelbrecht, speaking to Vogue from Cape Town, South Africa. “The most important thing is to get the actors to shed their personal life so that they can step into character. If she or he sends the message beautifully, then my job’s done.” Clothing for Engelbrecht is an extension of identity, and it’s in his hands to clean the slate of previous characters to make room for a new one. This approach has landed him on the sets of films starring Jennifer Lopez (The Cell) and Troye Sivan (Spud 2, Spud 3), and, now, designing the costumes for the 2020 television drama Noughts + Crosses. Adapted for the screen by directors Julian Holmes and Koby Adom, Noughts +…

FOR KIM CULMONE, who was appointed global head of design for Barbie in 2013, Barbie has always demonstrated possibility to (mostly) girls. “Barbie is a purpose-driven brand. In 1959, founder Ruth Handler believed her daughter should have as many choices in life as her son and she wanted to manifest that in a doll. That is a crystal-clear purpose if ever I’ve heard one.” Barbie has undoubtedly been a doll-of-all-trades since she was launched, undertaking an exhausting round of professional duties including astronaut (1965), surgeon (1973), rapper (1992), US presidential candidate (2000) and robotics engineer (2018). And while the first Black Barbie was launched in 1980 (the first Black doll in the range was Barbie’s friend Christie, who launched in 1968), she has also attracted criticism for portraying an unrealistic…

I’VE ALWAYS SUSPECTED I’m more adept at being alone than most: I’m naturally introverted, live solo and often seek solitude. No man is an island, but I have thought I could pass as a metaphorical peninsula: connected to the mainland but content to be largely detached. So I was surprised to discover that during required annual leave – a period of three weeks during this year’s lockdown when social distancing regulations were at their most rigorous – I really, truly, profoundly missed humans. It wasn’t loneliness or sadness that descended, but a longing to be seen, connect with, and feel the energy of my own species in the flesh. Setting out on a daily constitutional and spotting a human on approach, I felt like a dog whose tail wags frenziedly…

LEO 23 JULY–23 AUGUST A drive to know more, do more and be more is pushing you to expand your world now. You’re feeling reckless, except with your love life, where romance that nurtures and sustains you has more appeal than passion. Flimsy relationships could fade away now or you might surprise everyone by making a commitment. STYLE ICON: Frances Bean Cobain VIRGO 24 AUGUST–22 SEPTEMBER Your health might have taken a hit lately, so use this month to refresh your self-care and work routines. Money and passion motivate you more than usual now and your fun-seeking side is activated too, so celebrate your friends, as collaborations of all kinds will attract good things your way. STYLE ICON: Blake Lively LIBRA 23 SEPTEMBER–23 OCTOBER Relationships are about to get more…

IT IS A strange time to be alive, and an even stranger time to be a child. Toddlers today are only doing it for the first time and should not therefore be regarded as authorities in their field. Only handfuls of humans have managed to remain in the Eden of their own imagining, never having left behind the sunlit scenery of their early years, and it is they who set examples for the rest. But most of us have lost touch with the children we once were, either simply through negligence or due to having been forced by circumstance to grow up prematurely. In spite of how convinced we may at this present moment be of our own adultness, however, there is a possibility that our younger selves never stopped…

1. “[Some of my favourite interior designers include] Jacques Garcia for the splendour and unapologetic style. Vincent Darré for his flair, humour and amazing colour work, and architect Terunobu Fujimori for his craft and delicate historical approach. I would still choose to live in a house by Fujimori.” 2. “I like the scent of cypress. It’s reminiscent of my roots in southern France and my family home in Vallauris. My grandmother used to pick cypress balls and rub them in her hands and make me smell them when I was a child.” 3. “Yves Klein’s work speaks of our place in the universe in a modern, powerful way. James Turrell’s work is an all-time favourite for me and I came to discover his work through land art.” 4. “W.G. Sebald’s…

1. AN EVERLASTING MEAL: COOKING WITH ECONOMY AND GRACE (SIMON & SCHUSTER, 2012) BY TAMAR ADLER “This is definitely in my top three books. Tamar Adler is a great writer. I also really identify with her cooking approach, and especially her views on food scraps and waste.” 2. ALWAYS HOME: A DAUGHTER’S RECIPES AND STORIES (PENGUIN, 2020) BY FANNY SINGER “This book just came out. Fanny Singer talks about her journey as her mother’s daughter [American chef and restaurateur Alice Waters].” 3. HEART OF THE ARTICHOKE AND OTHER KITCHEN JOURNEYS (WORKMAN PUBLISHING, 2010) BY DAVID TANIS “If you were to buy just one cookbook, this would be it. David Tanis is a fellow bean and potato lover, and one of the most sensitive cooks and food writers of our time.”…

IN MID-NOVEMBER , 2019, I landed in the beautiful city of Sydney. I was greeted by enthusiastic and passionate women all of whom I grew close to in the days that followed. As we took part in the journey of visiting the Ronald McDonald House in celebration of and to raise money for McHappy Day, I was transformed in spirit by the people I met and the generosity of so many in Australia who gave to this beautiful cause – to help families of seriously ill children stay together. The families I met were so strong and accepted the suffering they endured with grace, stamina and gratitude for the simplest and grandest acts of kindness they received. A few days after McHappy Day, I drove to my photo shoot for…

ROUGE RENEWED It may be one of the original pillars of our beauty arsenal, but when Chanel’s global creative make-up and colour designer Lucia Pica interprets a classic rouge lip – coating it in Chanel’s Baume Essentiel Transparent – it takes on a dynamic edge. SHINE ON When assigned to lips, high shine feels reminiscent of the 90s. The updated take involves gloss all over the lids, or frankly, wherever you see fit. SOFTLY, SOFTLY Rebooted sorbet pastels are taken to brow line and beyond, proving that the quietest statement can be just as impactful. LINE UP For an update on a standard winged liner, take the almond shape up a notch by extending the curve both above and below the lash lines. Want to go bigger? Dial it up…

There are vital voices of change out there speaking – and there is much power in listening. Those leading the charge in Australia, pushing for inclusion and equality for all, are numerous, and they come from diverse backgrounds and experiences from all over the country. For this issue, we invited some of these women, who are all creatives but also vocal and confident voices for change, to capture a portrait of themselves that reflects who they are and the way they want to be seen in the wake of conversations that grew from the Black Lives Matter movement. Coming together across different disciplines – from music, dance, fashion and the arts – they share an ability to express themselves through their chosen mediums, but also powerfully using their own voices.…

Dust off the inner vamp, says Dolce & Gabbana, whose high-gloss carmine stilettos and matching shoulder bag speak to the re-emerging appetite for glamour for day. Fendi’s dipped-in-blue Baguette is commitment to style with flair and encapsulates a light-hearted optimism, against the odds. An unexpected dash of lipstick red paired with orange is a pigment match-up with purpose: to uplift. For those craving a freewheeling accent accessory, look no further than Michael Kors’s artfully streaked and whip-stitched top handle. Dior proposes winklepicker points and lady-like purses to rediscover the pleasure of feeling thoughtfully turned out. Prada’s thigh-highs might be able to slip under a trouser leg, but with a vinyl finish in cherry red, why should they stay hidden? Celine’s shopper is grown-up in its pursuit of practical dimensions but…