Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2020 i Vogue Australia

I was in the car on the way to work listening to the radio when I heard an interview with a lovely man whose daughter had nominated him for the ‘Fitzy, Wippa & Sia Have Got Your Back’ campaign, which is donating $100,000 to help Australian families who are doing it tough during the coronavirus pandemic. His story was heartbreaking. He had lost his job, his home and his beautiful wife. Sitting next to his daughter he broke into tears when asked when his wife had passed away: “Mother’s Day” was his response. I had to pull the car over. It still makes me teary writing this. The gift significantly altered the immediate future of this kind and humble man and that of his two daughters. He simply could not…

CLASH FORWARD Nicolas Ghesquière’s anachronistic visions of future-meets-the-past breathed freshness into his newest collection for Louis Vuitton, inspired in part by motocross. Here, a look that is a bit bourgeois and a bit boyish drives home one of this season’s directives: dress up with a license to mix. PATTERN PLAY Having a female designer at the helm of a house like Givenchy means each of Clare Waight Keller’s collections were designed with an inherent need, and real know-how, to serve the modern woman. The result? A dress that deftly balances elegance with ease of wear, updating a fail-safe silhouette with happy colour-blocked graphics. SHORT AND SWEET Miuccia Prada has been steadily and consciously upending expectations. So, instead of revisiting tired tropes of femininity in her collections for Miu Miu, she…

A SQUARE WITHIN a circle: a geometric metaphor that, for centuries, has alluded to nonconformity and something that doesn’t (and will never, according to ancient mathematicians) fit. The idiom of “a square peg in a round hole” has long been used as a slight, aimed at someone who doesn’t conform. But today, it symbolises freedom, choice and unconventionality. These iconic shapes are at the centre of the Cartier Pasha, a timepiece launched in the 80s that embodied the spirit of the era defined by economic boom: success, power, extroversion and liberation. Initially designed as a men’s watch (its progenitor, a 1930s commission by the Sultan, or ‘Pasha’, of Marrakech), it quickly became a gender-neutral icon and one of the most idiosyncratic timepieces for Cartier. It earned fans among in-the-know watch…

LÉA SEYDOUX MIGHT be the only person left in the world who hasn’t seen Fleabag. “I’m sorry,” she says, laughing apologetically. The French actor knows that it’s an oversight, given that she just worked with Phoebe Waller-Bridge, the creator of the multi-award-winning television series. Waller-Bridge is one of the writers of No Time To Die, Seydoux’s latest film and the 25th cinematic outing of the world’s most famous secret agent. You know who we’re talking about, right? Martini shaken, not stirred; Aston Martin with the engine running hot; last name, first name, last name again. Waller-Bridge was drafted in at the behest of James Bond himself, the actor Daniel Craig. He was looking for someone to put some crackle and fizz into the steady-handed formula of a super-slick franchise that…

LAYING CLAIM TO the visual hallmarks of the times isn’t confined to helming a fashion empire, calling the shots on a nebulous singular vision and steeping it all in seriousness. Today, creating a place in the collective consciousness plays out on more than one (excuse the pun) stage. For the multi-award-winning costume designer of the multi-award-winning musical Hamilton , Paul Tazewell, it is “mind-blowing” that the show, six years after its debut, will make its way around the world, and to somewhere like Australia. “And it always has been, from the very beginning when we were on Broadway,” he says over the phone. “It latched on culturally and it’s just grown monumentally since. It’s so rare to be involved with a musical, or any piece of art that really does…

It’s a perfect wig,” breathes the publicist solemnly, letting the phrase hang in the air for a moment. We’re high up in the dress circle of the New Wimbledon Theatre. It is January, and dotted throughout the cavernous red-velvet space below us are a director, 40-odd television crew members, and 166 extras in dinner jackets and silk gowns – channelling more 1980s pomp than a mid-Thatcher-era fundraiser. It is exactly the sort of razzamatazz you want from a show rumoured to cost more than $18 million an episode, but beyond the fabulousness, what you really sense is anxiety-level anticipation. We’re all waiting for the wig. Marilyn Monroe and Alexander the Great aside, there is no rival in the historical blonde stakes to Diana, Princess of Wales, so it took more…

Transforming unexpected objects into high art, the world was Jean Michel Basquiat’s canvas. In this respect, Stuart Vevers stamping Coach’s limited edition trenches with Basquiat iconography would have made perfect sense to the artist – in fact, we imagine he’d call it a stroke of genius.…

MICAIAH CARTER Photographer Micaiah Carter captured Sia dressed in a series of awe-inspiring designs for the cover of this issue. Taking inspiration from the set’s “ruffles, shapes and flowers”, Carter says his favourite image from the feature, from page 132, was “the one with the rose … because it has an introspection.” Grateful to have had the opportunity to shoot the Australian musician for Vogue , the Brooklyn- and LA-based photographer says that “although I have never been to Australia before, I am honoured to shoot a cover.” Confirming the artist was a pleasure to work with, Carter says the funniest moment from the day was seeing “Sia taking off her wig on the last look.” LULA CUCCHIARA “The inspiration was about being in tune with each other and the…

There are no cowboy connotations in this season’s take on fringing. Butter-soft leather and liquid fabrics give an elegant upgrade to the sweeping train, while trailing strands add movement and the illusion of height and drama.…

“I believe empathy and sincerity are consistent traits that define Lindbergh images” IN 1988, a group of then unknown ‘supers’ in white shirts had their picture taken on Santa Monica beach, before it was left in a drawer and discovered by Anna Wintour when she arrived that same year at American Vogue . The photographer had been the late Peter Lindbergh, who passed away in 2019. Lindbergh had captured the barefaced models in a moment of spontaneity that, along with Wintour’s decision to publish them in Vogue that year, catalysed a new look in fashion. His photography ushered in the era of the 90s supermodel (Linda, Christy et al) and introduced an element of photorealism then rarely seen in fashion editorials. Now, a special exhibition, Heimat. A Sense of Belonging…

MARION COTILLARD IS familiar with stepping into other people’s shoes. She portrayed Édith Piaf in La Vie En Rose , a performance that saw her become the first actor to win an Academy Award for a role performed entirely in French. She has played a cafe owner in A Good Year , a French Resistance fighter in Allied , and Lady Macbeth opposite Michael Fassbender in Macbeth . But her latest role, as the face of the globe’s most iconic fragrance may be one of her most daunting yet. “It was very intimidating at first, because Chanel No. 5 is such a big part of French culture. The fact that it’s such an icon, and I’ve known it since I was a kid, was very intimidating,” says Cotillard via video…

POT LUCK Easy swipe pads have become a beauty mainstay for their on-the-go usability but as far as being a serious skincare player, serums always packed more of a punch. The newest formulas however, are spiked with a host of effective ingredients (think vitamin C and hyaluronic acid) delivering the best of both worlds. WATCH THIS SPACE: BREAD BEAUTY SUPPLY Developed by founder Maeva Heim, Bread Beauty Supply is overhauling the hair-care market for curly and coiled hair. And it has nothing to do with ‘taming’ or ‘defrizzing’. Instead, it’s all about embracing natural texture with an arsenal of uncomplicated formulas set to launch in Sephora later this year. HELPING HAIR You probably haven’t given much thought to what happens to your hair once it’s lopped from your crown at…

Twenty minutes. A mere 1,200 seconds. That’s how long Sia remembers it took Maddie Ziegler to learn the now iconic four-minute choreography to her 2014 hit song Chandelier , a routine that irrevocably changed both their lives. At the time, the two had little or no expectations that the film clip was going to explode the way it did. Ziegler, then an 11-year-old prodigy from reality TV show Dance Moms , had flown to the west coast from her home in Pittsburgh for the job after Sia (a fan of the show) reached out via Twitter. “It was completely insane, especially for a whole new language of dance for her. I couldn’t believe how professional, sweet, grounded and talented she was,” remembers Sia of the young dancer who they filmed…

“There are decades where nothing happens, and there are weeks where decades happen.” The famous Lenin quote is acutely resonant in 2020, amid a global pandemic that has killed hundreds of thousands and ongoing protests sparked by the deaths of Breonna Taylor and George Floyd and the shooting of Jacob Blake. Borders are closed, millions are unemployed, and whole industries have been decimated. Meanwhile the strangest and perhaps most consequential presidential election in American history is upon us. “What you make, how you make it, how you speak about what you’ve made – for me, everything is politics” What does any of this have to do with fashion? Everything, it turns out. Fashion is a planet-spanning US$2.5 trillion business that employed more than 3.384 billion people globally. Its touch extends…

For decades, Indigenous people around the world have challenged art museums and galleries to reconsider their engagement with Indigenous materials, ideas, concepts and narratives. The challenge has been to build meaningful and respectful relationships with the communities whose cultural materials these spaces have historically benefited from exhibiting. Since the beginning, art galleries have nearly always been spaces that amplified the voices of a predominantly white few. In recent years however, particularly since the internet, there has been greater accountability for these spaces to ensure more inclusive stories are being told and that the true diversity of the art world is reflected in what they put on their walls. Groups like the anonymous Guerrilla Girls have built a global reputation as a sort of industry watchdog, holding museums accountable for their…

EVERYTHING WAS FALLING apart. My agent was calling me every day. This job in Mexico is cancelled and this other one is going to be postponed. This client called and their budget is frozen for now. In the beginning, I thought things were merely being delayed. A new virus had hit the planet and no one knew how to react yet. “Let’s take a break and touch base in a couple of weeks!” we all said. Do you remember? Curious timing for me, though. I am a writer, a photographer and an illustrator. I was one of the first fashion bloggers. A weird job, one I sort of made up as I went. I was successful, so it was intense, exhilarating – and exhausting. I had gone full speed for…

1. “Ren Hang’s body of work pierced the veil of taboos, oppression and sexuality in China, a side we often see hidden and suppressed. His art inspires me to find courage in breaking free out of my own societal pressures and cultural instincts.” 2. “Christian Louboutin The Exhibition(ist) is an index of inspiration … It’s given me great insight into the history of art, its movements and the creatives throughout time.” 3. “Nendo is a Tokyo design studio that dabbles in furniture, graphics, installations, products and interiors that craft playfulness and cleverness while still upholding the minimalist ‘less is more’ concept.” 4. “I am in love with Louboutin’s Mondiri block heel.” 5. “Half of my blood flows through Taiwan and so it is a curious place for me. The cities…

1. FIONA MYER, WHITE STORY I DON’T KNOW HOW TO LOVE HIM (1971) HELEN REDDY “Growing up in the 70s, Reddy’s albums united our generation and listening back on her lyrics, it is humbling just how profound her words are even today. She was part of a movement that challenged the narrative of what it means to be a woman and to share her story with my daughter, Jess, has been particularly special during this chapter. I am an awful singer yet sitting by the fire with a full-bodied red in hand, there is no stopping me when I am Woman plays – it’s the one track we can’t seem to get out of our heads.” 2. EMILY NOLAN, E NOLAN THE ADVENTURES OF PRISCILLA, QUEEN OF THE DESERT, 1994…

THE PANEL ASHLEIGH WILSON (MODERATOR) Wilson is a Walkley Award-winning journalist, former arts editor at The Australian and author of Brett Whiteley: Art, Life and the Other Thing, and the short essay book On Artists. LYNDON TERRACINI AM Terracini has been artistic director of Opera Australia since 2009 following a career as an operatic baritone, actor, director and writer. He has previously served as artistic director of Queensland Music Festival and the Brisbane Festival. LEE LEWIS Lewis took the reins as artistic director of the Queensland Theatre Company in 2020, having garnered critical acclaim as artistic director and CEO of Sydney’s Griffin Theatre Company. IAIN GRANDAGE Grandage is a highly celebrated and award-winning composer, music director and curator. In 2018 he was announced as artistic director of the Perth Festival…

SCIENCE DR CATHY FOLEY AO, CHIEF SCIENTIST, CSIRO Cathy Foley is disarmingly modest. As the chief scientist of Australia’s national scientific research agency, past president of the Australian Institute of Physics, a world-class research physicist in her own right, and the winner of awards too numerous to list, she has plenty to be proud of. But as the middle child of seven, the healthy teasing from older brothers taught her to avoid any hint of airs and graces, and she also credits her resilience to her upbringing in a large family. Her mother, who died when Foley was young, was an architect with her own practice at a time when this was rare. “I just had this idea that women persevere,” says Foley. “I thought, ‘if she could do it,…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA SPOKE to Dr Nadine Pernodet, vice president of Skin Biology and BioActives, Global Research and Development at The Estée Lauder Companies, based at the laboratories in Melville, New York. VA: Tell us about your upbringing; how did it shape your career? NP: “I grew up in France. I have always been extremely curious about everything and my parents always encouraged that. I remember going with my dad at 5am to forage for mushrooms in the forest, and being in our vegetable and flower garden with my parents.” VA: What were your early career aspirations and can you tell us about your first professional steps? NP: “As far back as I remember, I have always loved science. After school, I studied chemistry. I liked the process of understanding how…

She was the face people knew, but didn’t know much about – and though her acting career requires she take on other personas, there’s much more of the real Abbey Lee on show than ever before. By Alice Birrell Otherworldly”. That’s the stock word for Abbey Lee. It’s bandied about like a persistent halo, along with “ethereal”. ‘Abbey Lee in an ethereal exclusive’ reads a story, another: ‘the otherworldly Australian’, and now, with a fully formed acting career she’s playing ‘otherworldly figures’. It’s been inescapable for the actor, who at her modelling peak in the late aughts, fitted neatly into the homogenous aesthetic that dominated the scene: mainly Eastern-European, and definitely predominately white, models who wafted down the runways on a tangle of legs with faraway stares. And that was…

TALENT: Stella Rose Bennett aka Benee BORN: 30 January 2000, Grey Lynn, Auckland ZODIAC SIGN: Aquarius; Chinese year of the Dragon SPIRIT ANIMAL: Dolphin SCHOOL: St Marys College, Catholic girls’ school, Auckland DROPPED OUT: Auckland University of Technology (Because we all need to drop out.) MOTHER: Tania Bennett FATHER: Ian Bennett BROTHER: Oliver Bennett, younger by three years (Not annoying.) DOG: Tui (A native New Zealand bird.) KITTEN: Pistachio Moobug (Because it’s great saying pistachio with an Italian accent.) INSTAGRAM: @beneemusic 524K It is 8pm Auckland time and we are on Zoom. Benee is in her new home – she has just moved in with three school friends, only four minutes from her mum and dad, just because. She is wearing her trademark oversized knit and jeans. She has the…

FOR EIGHT YEARS I had been living, mostly, in French kitchens, amongst the copper pots and pans and the oily jars of duck fat stacked on swaying shelves betwixt the plum jams of early autumn, the cornichons, and the candied onions. I was happy in those kitchens: I had distanced myself from the city, and what a city it was. Who in their right mind would ever leave Paris? Later, I had no particular reason to leave my French country kitchen either – and 100 good ones to stay. Yet Italy was calling us. After all, it was there where the seeds of our country life had been sown a decade earlier. All those holidays in Italy, by the sea in small, grand hotels with waiters in white jackets and…

LIBRA 23 SEPTEMBER–23 OCTOBER Work and personal partnerships have felt full-on lately but things simmer down this month. Show those big personalities in your orbit how it’s done, with the subtle kind of charm offensive you exude so well. Keep a check on your money and health now too to handle a home-based challenge. STYLE ICON: Julia van Os SCORPIO 24 OCTOBER–22 NOVEMBER It’s an under-the-radar kind of month for you but with some possible endings and reversals that could raise the drama factor. Recent intensity around health, work and relationships may escalate but will subside just as quickly by letting things play out rather than by fanning the flames. STYLE ICON: Rachel McAdams SAGITTARIUS 23 NOVEMBER–21 DECEMBER Too much down time could lead to frustration now, a state that…