Indholdsfortegnelse for April 2021 i Vogue Australia

Back in 2019, we started noticing questions on Vogue’s social media asking why Melbourne raised K-Pop phenomenon, Rosé, was not on the cover. By the release of a Netflix documentary focused on her Korea-based girl group, BLACKPINK in 2020, the scale of her following was searingly obvious: a mega-star had been born. For the uninitiated, this claim may seem over the top, or even premature. Only a few times as an editor have I seen the youngest members of our staff, and my teens at home, truly in awe of a cover, or rather, the idea that we might have spoken to – even know – their pop idol. Billie Eilish had the same impact when we ran her first Vogue cover in July 2019. Images from our photoshoot with…

JOY Ode to extravagant volume and ballooning shapes that express optimism: this is expansive fashion with a positive outlook. Bulbous gowns (Halpern, Simone Rocha, Loewe) with a surreal quality reminiscent of couture masters of the 20th century were a headline but can be translated in the everyday via puffball silhouettes, on sleeves and skirts. CREATIVE The romance of a brushstroke’s gestural arc the unpredictable unfurling of a pigment-loaded line – each capture the happenstance of human creativity as the mind’s wanderings are transferred to canvas, or fabric. Embrace artful patterns, scrawls and graphic prints in a cacophony of colour splashed this way and that on dresses, separates and accessories. SPIRITUAL: Toggle into a slower mode through a vein of sensitivity that ran through the collections. Fendi led the way in…

1. “I’ve been loving the [American] singer Raveena’s style in her latest music videos. Her make-up and outfits are up my alley, straying from the familiar and delving into swirling colours and groovy aesthetics.” 2. [A film that’s recently had an impact on me is] Waves, with Alexa Demie and Taylor Russell. It is such an incredible film with amazing cinematography, and the soundtrack was perfect.” 3. “[In fashion] I haven’t been able to stop thinking about Area’s spring/summer ’21 haute couture ombre Swarovski crystal dress. It’s inspired a few make-up looks of mine. I’ve also been loving decadent bridal chokers from Sabyasachi and stacked pearls from Soft Modality.” 4. “The character Jules [played by Hunter Schafer] from HBO’s Euphoria [available here on Binge] always pulls through with the best…

JEREMY O. HARRIS: Hi, Tilda. The fact that we’re both in our beds is the most amazing thing … So tell me, you’ve been able to keep working a lot throughout this whole shutdown period, right? TILDA SWINTON: ”It’s been partly the luck of the draw because of the projects that we’ve been developing. Pedro Almodóvar and I were planning our little film, The Human Voice , for months, and then everything ground to a halt. We looked at each other and said: ‘Actually, this is something we could do. This is one woman and a dog – we could probably do that.” It was very moving for all of us because it was at that point where filmmakers were really wondering how we’re going to do this thing we…

THE CHANGE MAKER: Rumbie Mutsiwa When Rumbie Mutsiwa opened her eponymous hair salon dedicated to clients with curls in Sydney’s inner-west, she soon recognised another gap in the market: a lack of education, appreciation and formulas created to enhance natural hair texture. The Zimbabwean-born Australian pioneered a four-step cleansing and care routine for curly, wavy and coiled hair – a segment of the hair industry that has long been unnecessarily complicated or ignored altogether. More than just another hair upstart, Mutsiwa’s philosophy is one of acceptance, inclusivity, community and belonging. THE BONA-FIDE POWERHOUSE: Zoë Foster Blake A no-nonsense philosophy may be a cornerstone concept in today’s beauty industry, but when author and beauty entrepreneur Zoë Foster Blake launched Go-To in 2014 – armed with whip-smart humour and a simplified approach…

Did you know that the internet equivalent of energy needed to power each globe on a Hollywood-style dressing-room mirror is almost equal to one hour-long video stream on a phone? It’s true. Consider then, the lumens that would glow from the output of Korean girl group BLACKPINK, as their fans tune into every live stream in the millions. If internet fame powered the world, the power of BLACKPINK would, as the 2020 Netflix documentary hinted at, light up the sky. One quarter of BLACKPINK is the trailblazer you see on these pages, Park Chae-young, or in her English name, Roseanne Park – or as she’s known today, Rosé. Whether you know her by name or not is, at this point, irrelevant. Because by every quantifiable measure, she is the most…

Watching Morgan Davies’s screen performance as teen trans character Oberon is so raw, vulnerable and heartbreaking it’s almost too much to bear. During the 10 episodes of the Foxtel black comedy The End, we follow Oberon’s difficult journey as he transitions from a female, Titania, and the battle for acceptance he wages not only with his father but with himself. Suicide attempts and drug abuse are just some of the coping mechanisms at play. Although the series is often laugh-out-loud funny it can be tough viewing. It’s a powerhouse performance by the Sydney actor, and a particularly brave role to undertake when you learn how closely the storyline follows Davies’s own life. Now 19, the acclaimed young actor was born female, as Morgana Davies, and discovered acting in unconventional fashion.…

Rumbie Mutsiwa “This was the first time I have styled editorially, solely using our own Rumbie & Co Curly hair care line, and to say I was thrilled was an understatement,” shares Zimbabwe-born entrepreneur and hairstylist Rumbie Mutsiwa, who was tasked with showcasing model Sabrina Dhowre’s natural curls for the fashion feature ‘Ray of light’, from page 128. “I immediately wished my mum was there for me to share and celebrate with her. She struggled with the idea of me being a hairdresser and not the expected doctor, lawyer or engineer,” says Mutsiwa. “I hope she sees this now.” Julia Stone “I hope the piece I’ve written is a part of normalising conversations around mental health,” homegrown singer-songwriter Julia Stone says of her first person feature for ‘Vogue Voice’, on…

Designers were unanimous this season: louche tailored trousers are meeting our hankering for comfort, utility, and a feeling of being put-together. From Chanel, to Balenciaga to the doyennes of distillation, the Olsen sisters at The Row, the varietals catered to every occasion. Twenty-two-year-old model Shimma Marie is a deft hand at relaxed pants. “I feel powerful when I wear them, like I can conquer the world and feel comfortable doing it,” she says. She imparts her knowledge on how to style the modern building block. “When it comes to finding the right pair of trousers, I look for a number of things,” she says. “Firstly, the cut: I find the most flattering pants for a woman’s body cinch in at the waist; a thick waistband does wonders for this. Then,…

Remember personalisation? For a time, it seemed that not a handbag, shoe or phone case went un-monogrammed. So, it makes sense that fashion has taken the next step, embracing made-to-measure clothing as the ultimate in personalised design. Far from its usual associations – the lofty (and astronomically priced) world of couture, bridal, and Savile Row – a new crop of local makers is reinstating made-to-measure as a slower approach to fashion with sustainability at its core. In fact, as Rannia Al-Salihi, of label First Principles sees it, if money and time are invested in a custom piece, “you’re likely to wear it for longer, care for it better, and ultimately reduce your overall textile and apparel consumption”. This is nothing new (in fact, most clothing was made-to-measure in the 1800s,…

MEET THE SLOW knitters: a body of labels making small-batch, hand-knitted jumpers and cardigans. With either a small selection on offer, or pieces made to order taking up to several weeks to craft, they draw on a hankering for pastoral purity. Take New Zealand label Frisson Knits, made with ethically sourced local mohair, or The Knitter, another Kiwi outfit eschewing machines in favour of hand-making bouncy knits for bundling up in. Or the newest venture, Nodi, from Adriana Giuffrida, founder of accessories label Poms, who has turned a love of slow craft into a line of bags and bandanas among others. Italian for ‘knots’, Nodi was created in loving memory of her grandmother, who taught Giuffrida how to crochet. Add to that Kamala Harris’s step-daughter Ella Emhoff’s recently launched (and…

The Golden Globes are always long and always chaotic, and always, always controversial. They get it wrong more often than they don’t, and when they get it wrong they really get it wrong. Like this year’s snubbing of Michaela Coel’s indelible turn in the mini-series I May Destroy You – a performance that she also wrote, directed and created. “Awards are insane,” sighs Taylour Paige, who stars in the lauded Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom , alongside Viola Davis and the late Chadwick Boseman. “If we are going to take them so seriously, I just hope that people are recognised for how hard they worked,” she adds. “Someone like Michaela Coel, who ripped herself open to give us that.” But sometimes the Globes get it right, which they did only a…

Poppy Starr Olsen may only be 20 years young, but boasts maturity beyond her age both on and off the skate park. Since first stepping onto a board and being the only visible female among a sea of male skaters (many of them much older) she’s harnessed an unwavering sense of self that continues to propel her forward with hope and optimism. Her professional career started early. At just 16, Olsen transitioned from the amateur to professional division with the goal of “trying to scratch a spot in the finals” at a high-profile event in California alongside girls she idolised. She ended up winning the event with that single leap of faith. Vogue spoke to the Optus Olympic Ambassador as she trained in Sydney ahead of this year’s Tokyo Games.…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA: Was there a particular turning point for you in choosing to live more sustainably? GRACE LAM: “It was a gradual change, starting four years ago. I was living in Hong Kong and beginning to realise that it wasn’t a particularly eco-friendly city, so I began to make changes to the way I was living. It was simple things in the beginning: I saw that my mentor, Edward Enninful, editor-in-chief of British Vogue , had planted trees as gifts for friends, so I started to do the same for my family’s birthdays and as Christmas presents.” VA: And how did that lead to your beauty routine? GL: “It starts with daily habits. I can’t say I’m doing everything right but I do try to make an impact in every…

In a 2017 interview with American magazine Essence, Idris Elba broke the hearts of eligible bachelorettes everywhere by saying he wouldn’t get married again. “Marriage is an institution of sorts. And I’ve done it. It’s not for everybody. It’s not my life’s calling,” acknowledged the British actor, DJ and People magazine’s 2018 Sexiest Man Alive. But then images began to surface of Elba spending time with a stunning Canadian woman he’d met in Vancouver while filming The Mountain Between Us. The questions soon followed: Who is she? And will she change the actor’s mind about marriage? In February 2018, Elba popped the question. He and Sabrina Dhowre, the beautiful Canadian, were engaged to get married in Morocco the following year. “In many ways theirs is an old-fashioned love story,” wrote…

From the age of five, I have memories of being told “go change your clothes” before men came into my house. As I got older, I wondered whether the men were told not to sexualise a five-year-old girl upon entering. Now, I question why it was acceptable to welcome someone who my parents thought had the potential to do that into our family home in the first place. My answer: because we live in a rape culture society, where anyone could harbour the potential to do this. But when you’re five and that’s what you’re told to do, you just change your singlet into a baggy T-shirt and shuffle around uncomfortably when someone who cares about you gives you a familiar look that you know silently says “don’t sit like…

It’s one of life’s great pleasures, but you may be surprised to learn that most luxury spas lack natural sunlight. It makes sense: sequestered to the calm arteries of a multi-storey hotel away from the city bustle, the sole purpose of a spa is to feel removed from life’s stressors, which means fashioning a dimly lit, soundproof refuge. But if those busy streets were replaced by the gentle lap of Sydney’s iconic harbour, as is the case at Crown Towers Sydney’s recently opened in-house spa, it would be remiss not to welcome the outdoors in. “To have this spa in the location that we do right on Sydney Harbour takes it to the next level of experience,” says Crown Sydney’s executive general manager of non-gaming, Mark Holmes, of the spa’s…

IT ALL STARTED WHEN prophetic designer Karl Lagerfeld took the reins at Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s namesake brand in 1983, and so began a legendary era. Lagerfeld’s fantastical, opulent vision would go on to change fashion, but his respect for Chanel’s past was undeniable – from the brand’s famous tweed suits and jackets, to Coco’s classic 2.55 bag, so named after its date of inception: February, 1955. Instantly recognisable for its precisely stitched diamond quilting, its inspiration Mademoiselle Chanel reportedly took from puffed equestrian jackets. Lagerfeld added an eye-catching double ‘C’ clasp on the bag’s flap, and a status symbol was born. In the place of the 2.55’s interlinked chain, the designer fused metal with buttery leather. The emergent 11.12 bag is a Chanel cornerstone and part of current creative director…

It was the final day of production rehearsals in March last year when I remember hearing echoes of a virus in Wuhan. I was due to fly to Europe to shoot the cover for my new album Sixty Summers, then to Mexico City for a one-off show, then back to LA for a photoshoot. I called my friend Louise, a doctor who works with medical organisations around the world, who responded directly: “I strongly recommend that you don’t get on that flight.” And just a few days later, borders around the world closed one by one. As our government attempted to control the situation, I was very aware that the entertainment industry and arts would suffer. I’m a huge advocate for the arts – a civilisation can’t thrive without it…

I’ve talked with so many women in the past five years and after really listening to them I started to understand,” Alber Elbaz explains via Zoom from his new office in Paris. It’s only a few weeks after his lauded return to fashion with his new venture AZ Factory. “I said to myself that if and when I do it, I will work differently,” he continues, reflecting back on his shock ousting from Lanvin in 2015 at the height of his stellar 14-year tenure as creative director. “So in the five years that I didn’t work, I think I did the best work of my life, because I was so bored,” he smiles. “I realised the boredom was the most essential thing for creativity.” The first and last letters of…

THE LADYLIKE HEEL “The excuse to invest in the point-toe has arrived via Saint Laurent and its silver-tipped heels. With closed shoes required for autumn racing dress codes, the extra metallic flash raises the elegance quota. Just add point d’esprit stockings for a twist of French ingenue.” – Alice Birrell, fashion features director ELEGANT ARMS In the spirit of enduring fashion, accessories like Longines’s DolceVita timepiece in lean lines, and with a classic face, have almost universal applications within the wardrobe, making them worth the investment. While ears have been the focus of attention on runways, and Zoom calls, of late, wrists get a rework in subtler keepsake pieces, like this diamond-studded timepiece to keep forever. THE CAPE Hybridisation is set to become a hallmark of this time; now that…

“GROWING UP CAN be a little daunting, with responsibilities mounting and the inevitable curveballs that life throws at us, all while trying to master the balance between work and fun. There’s no doubt the enduring allure of pieces designed by Memphis greats such as Ettore Sottsass still hold relevance today due to their playful nature and a bold use of colour that transports us back to a simpler time. This collection of art and design pieces will create the perfect adult playground – high in sophistication but still filled with joy.” Gingham style “Striped and gingham textiles will create a fresh and nostalgic feeling in just about any space.” Mix it up “Look to tastemaker Alex Eagle for examples of how these bold pieces can mix so well in a…

YOU’RE AS LIKELY to encounter DJ Peggy Gou in the fashion sphere as in the music world. The Berlin-based creative has risen to the apogee of global dance music, defying convention with a multifaceted approach to her output. From her clothing label Kirin, encouraged by polymath Virgil Abloh, to her record label Gudu, she outstrips her contemporaries on many levels. Here, she discloses the real-life career philosophies that have helped her rise to the top. VOGUE AUSTRALIA: You’ve forged a career that doesn’t neatly fit into categories. What advice would you give to someone who wants to pursue a creative path, but isn’t sure what they’re aiming for? PEGGY GOU: “I think it’s very important to know your passion first; sometimes people make the mistake of diving into things fast…

YOU’RE PROBABLY FAMILIAR with Hermès orange, but lesser known is the brand’s kinship with the colour pink. The shade was a mainstay of the delicate equestrian silks made by the house for more than 80 years, while in the spring of 1961, a best-selling pink woollen suit which featured in the maison’s fanciful window displays sealed the hue in the house’s storied DNA. In building out its make-up offering, Hermès has brought the rose hue back to the fore with the launch of Rose Hermès, a collection of eight velvet blush palettes. “It is a palette of shades that sketches contours without fixing them, animating the face and giving it movement,” says creative director of Hermès Beauty, Jérôme Touron, of the powder formulation. The buildable shades, designed to suit all…

I’m not sure why I stopped spritzing fragrance during lockdown last year. My favourite scents – Byredo’s Gypsy Water, Jo Malone’s Wood Sage and Sea Salt, and the floral notes of Burberry’s My Burberry, sat abandoned on my dresser. Was it that I associated a fragrance with special moments or celebrations, which were periodically paused? Or had the downtime established that I actually wear scent for everyone around me? And if that was true, why had I spent hours combing department store floors, or nose-deep in the beauty cupboard at work seeking out a fragrance to effortlessly suit my mood or occasion, when this mid-pandemic social experiment had proven it wasn’t, in fact, for my own enjoyment after all? It turns out I’m the anomaly. In France, a country for…

Anthony Vaccarello is a sensitive and deliberate designer. As the creative head of the French house of Saint Laurent for five years now, he continues to weave a story of seduction while paying respect to the founder of the brand, Yves Saint Laurent. Seduction, so much at the heart of the house, is something Vaccarello pulls off with unrivalled ease. Rejecting the vagaries of the trend cycle, he is steadfast in his vision, asserting a sensual strength that has become his ace card and has held him in good stead, echoing not only the history of fashion but its ability to intrigue and embody the best of culture, emotion and personality. Vogue spoke to the designer about his preoccupations and mindset in the wake of his spring/summer ’21 collection shown…

ARIES 21 March–20 April You get to reset your plans for 2021 this month if things haven’t worked out quite as you’d hoped. You’re upfront, vocal and a love magnet, with more sway in your ‘hood than further afield now. What you value most in life is your top priority, and a rejig at home, with finances or with a partner could reveal new depths. STYLE ICON: Rooney Mara TAURUS 21 April–21 May You’re a bubbling cauldron of passion this month, making all the right moves in all the right places. What you say gets heard and how you look gets noticed. It’s your time to shine so enjoy the limelight but be mindful not to bruise other egos in the process. Keep fuelling your lucky career streak with hard…