Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2021 i Vogue Australia

Linda Marigliano As our guest music editor for this issue, Sydney-based musician, podcaster, TV host and radio presenter Linda Marigliano proved an invaluable and effervescent resource. She penned Vogue Voice (page 57), curated the line-up of local talent in ‘The sound of now’ (page 160) and also spoke to 18-year-old singer-songwriter Ruel (page 172). “I love interviewing, so sitting down and chatting in depth with Ruel was lovely. I was delighted to work with Vogue, plus music is my passion so it’s a damn perfect fit,” she says. “Australian music is thriving with creativity, but also suffering in the captivity of a pandemic. I hope people listen and support our local scene so that we can all dance at clubs, venues and festivals again soon!” James J. Robinson Tasked with…

The fine print Wallpaper prints in delicate colours carry an underrated power, as emphasised by Romance Was Born’s collage dress (above), and Tory Burch’s interlinked floral motif (left). In living colour Enliven homespun textures with exuberant accessories to place them in the now, like Aje’s electric neon shoes and woven clutch, which are anything but fusty. Want to shop Vogue’s edit? Scan the QR code using your phone to get instant access to the best of the trend as selected by the Vogue editors.…

His imagery remains visual shorthand for the good life – the salubrious lands of milk and honey that could only have existed in the golden hours after World War II – but George Allen Aarons, better known as Slim, never set out to explicitly capture style. Now a new book turns the focus to Aarons’s eye on the wardrobes and aesthetic tastes of the elite. In Slim Aarons: Style, the photographer’s own perception of his influence on the world of fashion is challenged. Shawn Waldron, currently head of the Slim Aarons Archive at Getty Images, curated the book, and says the 1916-born Aarons rejected the idea of shooting fashion, doing a handful of editorial shoots before leaving the format behind. “He didn’t like the artifice of it,” explains Waldron. “It’s…

Look this way, and there is a wall of tiny boxes holding every kind of delicate trinket and piece of silver imaginable. In one box are palladium padlocks, in another precious keys, and you’d likely discover a very familiar ‘H’, too. In the next room is a technicolour pile of sumptuous leather of chèvre de coromandel or goat leather in a zingy shade of chartreuse, clemence (a kind of grained bull leather) in deep merlot atop exotics like niloticus (crocodile), and buttery pebbled Togo leather in ballerina pink or dove grey, the kind that regularly finds its way onto Birkin bags. We are looking at the Paris workshop of Hermès’s petit h, a project begun by Pascale Mussard, great-great-great-granddaughter of Thierry Hermès, where they are working on a line-up of…

Seller: Hassida Vintage At: depop.com/hassidavintage Best for: Minimalist vintage from the 1970s, 80s and 90s. A healthy stockpile of wearable vintage pieces with an emphasis on timeless neutrals and tailoring from the 1970s through to the 90s. Click if Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy and early Calvin Klein are your thing. Seller: Real Life as Liv At: depop.com/reallifeasliv Best for: Rare vintage. Daughter of a vintage clothing dealer, 22-year-old student Olivia Haroutounian spends hours each day trawling for vintage Alaïa, Prada, Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier and noughties-era Céline, and counts Megan Thee Stallion among her fans. Seller: Susamusa At: depop.com/susamusa Best for: Y2K style With 95K followers, Asal Tehrani’s Depop is the not-so-well-kept secret from where Bella Hadid sources Y2K-flavoured pieces. Some items are designed by Tehrani then sustainably produced: everything is upcycled…

All The Streets Are Silent This documentary celebrates a time in the late 1980s and early 90s when the city that never sleeps was ruled by hip-hop beats, skate culture and DJs. Downtown New York has never been captured better than in All the Streets Are Silent, which brings together the stories of skaters such as Harold Hunter and interviews with key figures on the scene including Rosario Dawson. Screening at Sydney’s Golden Age Cinema soon. The Harder They Fall With its epic cast – Idris Elba! Regina King! Jonathan Majors! Zazie Beetz! LaKeith Stanfield! – and killer soundtrack, The Harder They Fall is shaping up to be one of the most anticipated movies of the year. The directorial debut of musician Jeymes Samuel, who was the music supervisor alongside…

1. “Just before the pandemic hit we had a last hurrah at the Chateau during Frieze art fair. It was literally a takeover of the entire hotel; a gospel choir showered you with vibes as you entered and the Compton Marching Band performed, too. I DJed to a packed lobby. It really felt like an ‘end of the world’ party.” 2. “Rose oil, Acqua di Parma and vintage 1970s colognes are among my favourite scents.” 3. “Choosing a favourite Are We On Air? guest is very difficult, but being with Jane Birkin in her home and listening to her beautiful voice was very emotional. I could hardly speak and just wanted to listen.” 4. “I most admire the personal style of [Italian industrialist] Gianni Agnelli, Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent…

It may be defined as a state of clarity, motivation and productivity, but let’s be clear, ‘flow’ sounds a bit woo-woo. It’s been more than four decades since University of Chicago psychologist Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi first coined the term after studying the crossroads of happiness and optimal performance, and the rather fuzzy term for what is a genuine physiological response in the brain and body has stuck. “We know that flow flushes stress hormones out of our system and resets the nervous system back to zero, so it’s actually a phenomenal antidote for stress” In 2021, it’s also increasingly pertinent. While Csikszentmihalyi describes flow as “a state in which people are so involved in an activity that nothing else seems to matter”, it could also be summarised as the flip side…

Nearly two decades ago, Jessica Simpson had an edible cosmetics line called Dessert Beauty, sold at Sephora. It was sugary and sexy, a shimmering distillation of the spirit of the early aughts. Then it disappeared. At the time, Simpson and her then husband Nick Lachey starred in one of the earliest celebrity reality shows, MTV’s Newlyweds . It was a simpler time, predating Instagram, Kardashians and sponcon. Celebrity beauty looks were documented and dissected primarily on red carpet shows and in gossip magazines. For the first time, their beauty businesses were tabloid fodder, too. When one magazine reported on alleged trouble with Dessert’s business side, they quoted a representative for Simpson distancing her from the brand. She was a “spokesperson” with no responsibility for any of the claimed financial snafus,…

A year is a very long time to spend not doing the thing you love. Which is how long Rita Ora spent, in our pandemic annus horribilis , never once setting foot onto a stage. “You put [music] on and you don’t feel alone. You’ve got something there that protects you, that gives you that shield of confidence, or that shield of sympathy, or whatever mood you need … It’s the only thing I rely on to bring me joy. It’s probably the one, [the] only thing I know I can rely on” Not that she didn’t sing at all. Throughout 2020, Ora noodled around in a makeshift home studio, trying out different things to see what stuck. One of those things was Bang Bang , a total knockout, shake-your-body…

When I was a teenager, about the same age as my twin daughters are now, I had a huge vinyl collection that had pride of place by the record player next to my bed. My passion for listening to records, scattered ever so fashionably on the floor of my bedroom, was only exceeded by my passion for live music. There was a thriving local pub scene in Sydney at the time, but not being old enough to get through the doors, I instead spent any money I earned on concert tickets to see international visiting artists. My taste didn’t discriminate and I saw everyone from Cyndi Lauper to The Cure, Dire Straits to New Order. The idea to make October a music-themed issue came about very organically. We shot Rita…

“I opt for a well-cut midi-dress when I need an instant confidence boost on hectic work days. The structure and shape have me looking a whole lot more put together than I might feel. The nipped-in waist and hip-skimming fabric create a silhouette that’s both sophisticated and feminine, yet there’s also a flexibility to wear this beyond the office, especially when there’s a beautiful print involved.” – JESSICA MONTAGUE, DEPUTY EDITOR “Switch out the abbreviated sundress – that can wait for high summer – spring is the perfect time to dabble in the slightly more grown-up feel of a midi hemline. My pick is one with a print that sings, not whispers, like this bold paisley tea dress that exudes the brand of Rive Gauche insouciance Isabel Marant knows inside…

Uncomplicated style is the catch-all phrase that describes the kind of understated approach that has become a fashion holy grail. Interpreted differently the world over – the French have effortless nous, the Americans sporty ease, – but what do we call our own? A bevy of brands is now defining an underdone, minimal warm-weather mode of dress that has garnered a devoted following and is characterised by natural fabrics, timeless neutral palettes and well-cut, streamlined silhouettes. “The resortwear category has exploded over the past decade, particularly for Australian brands,” says stylist and creative director of swim and ready-to-wear label Bondi Born, Karla Clarke. She sees a preference for easy pieces as both a natural evolution in taste – beyond bright prints and frill-laden colour – and a feeling of ease…

SHAKING UP LONGSTANDING traditions is a necessity in the pursuit of a more sustainable fashion future. It’s something Polish accessories label Chylak’s founder Zofia Chylak knows from working with vegan leather for her brand. Frustrated with results that she felt didn’t hit the mark, the designer and art historian, who finessed her creative chops at Proenza Schouler, found the answer in the past. A family-owned business producing French moiré, an aristocratic fabric with antique roots and a distinct warp-look texture, was open to moving from silk to experimentations with a version made from 62 per cent recycled ocean plastic. The result is a line-up of elevated totes, shoulder bags and clutches in the opulent fabric. “The well-known truth is that fashion was sustainable for many centuries,” says Chylak. “It’s just…

In the summer of 2019, my partner and I started looking for a house to buy. We were both divorced and had washed up in two rented flats at opposite ends of London. The journey to see each other would take the best part of an hour, and by the time I hit 40 I was sick of traipsing across town with hair straighteners and a spare pair of underpants stuffed into my overnight bag. We began househunting with various criteria: the place had to be big enough for his three children to stay over, it had to be close to a tube station and I refused to live anywhere without a bathtub. We saw a house online that ticked all those boxes. It had recently been overhauled by a…

Karlie Kloss has worked with virtually every major luxury brand and famously fronted more than 40 international issues of Vogue during her megawatt 15-years-and-counting fashion career. But back in 2014, after a breakneck run in the world of high fashion, the then 22-year-old from St Louis, found herself drawn back to the classroom to study coding. A year later she founded Kode With Klossy, a free camp and virtual coding course which aims to get young girls aged 13 to 18 not only interested but upskilled to pursue careers in tech. Here she reveals how it’s evolved and her plans for scaling it up in a meaningful way. VOGUE AUSTRALIA: How did the concept for Kode With Klossy come to you and what was your vision when you founded it?…

Finding flow isn’t always simple, but you’re one step closer with the right routine. 1. MUTE DISTRACTIONS: Silence digital alerts, pop-ups and any controllable real-life distractions to keep your attention on the task at hand. When your focus falters, experts believe it can take as long as 25 minutes to capture it again. 2. FOCUS ON THE JOURNEY: You’re more likely to dip into flow if you’re rewarded by the task, not the end result. Set achievable goals. 3. WORK IN REVERSE : When you’ve felt in flow, make a mental note of the task, setting, mindset and routine, and aim to mirror it when it comes to your next challenge.…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA: False lashes are a niche beauty category, why start there? JENNA LYONS: “I don’t have any lashes of my own due to a genetic disorder, which makes me hyper-aware of how transformative they can be. When I was working at J.Crew, I noticed that so many girls were coming into the office with eyelash extensions and wore no other make-up. What I was looking for in terms of an eyelash wasn’t currently available, so I felt there was a possibility to create a space for my own.” VA: After departing J.Crew, how did you evaluate your next step? JL: “I wish I could say I did some evaluating. I did a lot of sitting, staring, and eating ice-cream. Everything I’ve done since leaving J.Crew – the television show…

DIOR MASTER PERFUMER François Demachy was in lockdown at his home in the south of France last year when he was tasked with reimagining one of the brand’s most revered fragrances. “I was in Grasse and [Dior rose grower] Carole Biancalana showed me this beautiful rose she grew as adornment at her place … its perfume is extraordinary and this is what inspired me,” says Demachy. The aptly named ‘Sweet Love’ rose is a “spicier and more intense note” than the bloom at the heart of the original scent and became the starting point for Demachy to remaster Miss Dior. “The rest of the process also happened during lockdown,” he continues. “I was sending my tests to marketing and top management in Paris from my lab in Grasse. Everybody was…

Kim Jones is at work, with a capital W. “We’re onto collection number seven now in the nine months I’ve been here so we’re on a roll,” says the newly minted artistic director of womenswear over Zoom from Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, the Roman headquarters of Fendi. Coming through the computer’s speakers are the muted sounds of people moving around him, an industrious low swish of white noise. Take a moment for that to sink in: seven collections in nearly as many months and all while retaining his commitments as creative director of menswear at Dior in another city – Paris – during a pandemic. “It’s not been the easiest time to start a job, I’m going to say, but I think we’ve been doing a really good job.” Jones…

LIBR A 23 September–23 October You’re able to reinvent yourself this month with the help of a New Moon in your sign. Romantic and creative urges get focused and a relationship may benefit from close scrutiny under the Full Moon’s beams. Make ‘don’t be a stranger’ your mantra now, as your ruler Venus sends cosmic waves to enhance all the ways you communicate. STYLE ICON: Dakota Johnson SCORPIO 24 October–22 November Your time in the spotlight arrives this month with the Sun in your sign. Recent mix-ups will be history once Mercury’s out of retrograde and you’ll handle a stuck situation at home like a boss. Work may stretch your limits and self-care might need an upgrade but your passion for life is about to reignite. Venus boosts your money…

My dad is a hairdresser and throughout my childhood, he would cut, wash and blow-dry my hair in a makeshift salon set-up in our laundry. He would lather up my hair in the deep sink and I’d shut my eyes tightly to prevent any shampoo dripping into them. While towel-drying my hair, we would walk into the connected garage to peruse his record collection. Shelves of vinyl lined the walls, creating a neat border around our family Toyota and I, with damp hair, would pull out some options and so would Dad. Eventually we’d choose something to listen to on his old record player. I remember how those dusty speakers would vibrate as the music played out through the garage and into the laundry as he dried my hair. A…

When Madonna took the stage on the first show of her ‘Blond Ambition’ world tour in 1990 wearing a corset with a conical bra, the fashion world effectively stopped in its tracks. The piece, designed by French fashion enfant terrible Jean Paul Gaultier, was a seductive statement – not just embracing the desire for sex appeal that female musicians are often expected to fulfil, but welcoming it with open arms. Standing out never looked better. Throughout history, we’ve seen how irreverent wardrobes can influence fashion and how rebelling against normality can spark innovation. Arianne Phillips, Madonna’s longtime costume designer and collaborator, says of the star: “She is not nostalgic, she doesn’t look back, she is forward-thinking and does not make creative choices [based on] on what other people will think,…

COLLETTE DINNIGAN’S DESIGN studio sits on her property in Bowral, New South Wales. The residence, with its 1880s homestead, is where she has been living with her family since returning in 2020 to spend time in Australia having travelled from Italy, a country she also calls home. The self-designed studio is an open-plan working space, filled with swatches, rolls of fabrics, mannequins for draping, books, boxes full of development ideas, threads and the tools of her trade as one of Australia’s most celebrated designers. It’s where fashion magic happens. “The studio is where I create my mood boards, play with colour and textures. I need a space where I can organise myself into those worlds,” she says. Dinnigan’s creative process is about gathering and editing; it’s thoughtful and intuitive. Since…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA: Having worked in technology start-ups before you joined Depop, what appealed to you most about the company’s modus operandi? MARIA RAGA: “I’ve always had a dream to get as far ahead working in digital, so Depop’s mobile-first, social-first business really appealed to me. Meeting Simon [Beckerman], Depop’s founder, really opened my eyes to the endless possibilities of Gen Z. A generation that’s transforming the way we do, and think about, business every single day, but also a generation that’s paving the way for the future – a more sustainable, equitable one.” VA: What have been some of the innovations at Depop created to deal with the pandemic that you are most proud of? MR: “While the pandemic presented many challenges for all of us, we immediately knew how…

Picture this: a five-year-old girl, eyes glued to the television. E.T the Extra Terrestrial is playing, and a crucial moment is about to unfold both onscreen and in real life. If this were a movie, it’s when the score would kick in. Elliott and his new friend E.T are trundling merrily along on a bicycle through the woods. The accompanying orchestral soundtrack by John Williams is a dazzling and dizzying melange of strings, zipping up and down the register as the pair cycle on. And then, suddenly, that bicycle takes off into the sky and the score swells to its full majesty: triumph and joy, wonder and incredulity, and through it all a total lightness. “That music almost felt like it was behind them, propelling them up into the air,”…

Phoebe Waller-Bridge: The Fleabag creator has appeared on the podcast twice. Each time she has been funny, frank and forthcoming. A perfect interviewee. Dolly Alderton: Another repeat guest, Alderton and Day have cracking conversation chemistry – probably because they’re real-life friends. Their many episodes together cover friendship, ambition and creativity, and are all must-listens. Sharmaine Lovegrove: The brilliance of How To Fail is all in Day’s empathetic interviewing and the honesty of her guests. This episode featuring Lovegrove, a celebrated publisher who was homeless in her youth, is a riveting tale of resilience.…

For the good part of two decades, Vicki Lee couldn’t bring herself to uncap a bottle of Chanel No. 5. “I deliberately avoided smelling it for 19 years,” says the Sydney-based artist known for her work with mirrored Perspex, resin and dramatic florals. The iconic glass flacon was the only material keepsake Lee had belonging to her late mother, and just a few months ago had shattered across the bathroom floor of the Bondi home she shares with her husband and two daughters. “But the funny part of the story is three months later there are 10 of these [fragrances] stacked up in my kitchen,” says Lee in jest. “And after almost 20 years of avoiding that scent, Chanel is asking me to do a project with them.” “The thing…

According to a paper published in the Journal of Human Sport and Exercise, music counteracted mental fatigue during a run and duped participants into thinking they were expelling less energy. PE Nation co-founder and exercise devotee Pip Edwards shares her top workout tunes. • Four to the Floor by Thin White Duke • Final Credits by Midland • No More Conversations by Freeform Five • My, My, My by Armand Van Helden • Dumb Love by Neil Frances • God Made Me Feel It (Claptone edit) by Simion and MD X-Spress…

In 2020, we turned to music for comfort and joy, and we asked it to reflect back at us reminders of our past lives and reassurances that, when this was all over, dance floors and concerts and gigs would be waiting for us again. But this year, upon hearing the music written and recorded during the various states of shutdown all over the world, you’d be forgiven for forgetting about dance floors entirely. Everything feels softer, lighter and altogether more earnest. On Solar Power, Lorde has traded the neon lights that lit both her and her path up on Melodrama for natural lighting. In considering the effects fame has had on her life, Billie Eilish turned to post-war crooners like Peggy Lee, Julie London and Frank Sinatra for inspiration. The…

His name is Zeus. He is muscly, assertive, and the mountain he lives on is not Olympus, but one of those that make up the Greater Blue Mountains area, the million-hectare region west of Sydney. “They’re normally pretty placid in care, but he was really vigorous,” says Dr Kellie Leigh. Zeus is, of course, a koala, and he is one of the many that come in and out of Leigh’s care at Science for Wildlife, a New South Wales-based not-for-profit conservation effort that has just received the backing of international jeweller Tiffany & Co. It is part of the company’s ongoing support of Wildlife Conservation Network (WCN) through its Save the Wild collections, which this time has seen rendered in rose gold, silver and diamonds the iconic Australian marsupials which,…

IT ALL STARTED WHEN … Thierry Hermès opened the doors of his eponymous brand in 19th-century Paris, ushering in a dedicated clientele of leather purists. The house would grow to include timepieces and fine china in its offerings, eventually acquiring 435-year-old French crystal brand Saint-Louis, noted for its world-renowned glassmaking. Almost two centuries later, things understandably look a little different. Trends ebb and flow in fashion’s field of vision, but the appeal of the forever piece is always in clear sight, and Hermès’s artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski continues to update the brand’s most cherished items, imbuing high-quality classics with a contemporary flair. And so to 2021, and the house’s Daisy ankle boots where white leather is paired with an orb-shaped heel inspired by Saint-Louis’s Djerba vase, reflecting the house’s artisanal…