Around two years ago, in the high-flying heyday of travel pre-Covid-19, Jacqueline Karachi-Langane, the French creative director of Cartier fine jewellery, was doing her usual rounds at the Tucson gem show in Arizona. At one stand, a dazzling 4.01-carat rose-cut diamond caught her eye, and she hesitated but moved on. “I thought it was interesting, but it needed something else,” Karachi-Langane recounts when we meet. The next day, that diamond was still lingering in her thoughts while she was on the lookout for coloured gemstones, and there, at the same dealer, she honed in on an 8.20-carat Siam ruby. The colour was intense and very saturated, like a sun-ripened raspberry, but it was remarkably flat in its shape. “I knew it needed more depth,” says Karachi-Langane, “and then I remembered…
