Indholdsfortegnelse for February 2022 i Vogue Australia

I have been avoiding sitting down to write this letter to acknowledge the tragic loss of Virgil Abloh, aged just 41. Doing justice to his impact and life is difficult. Virgil was very close with our fashion director Christine Centenera. They met working on sets and collaborating with Kanye West. Before Virgil was appointed artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear, we sat down for lunch in Milan in 2017. He showed us pictures of his upcoming collection for Off-White – which he would show the following week in Paris – a collection inspired by Princess Diana on the 20th anniversary of her death. Virgil’s impact on the fashion industry was most profound because he wasn’t an elitist. He treated everyone with respect and curiosity. The fashion industry is built on…

I was born in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, in 2005. My parents couldn’t have children, so they chose to adopt. When they were searching through countries to adopt from, they fell in love with Ethiopia and its culture. So they went over and adopted me when I was seven months old, and I’ve lived in Sydney, Australia, ever since. I’m very proud to be an Australian and grateful to have grown up in a country where there are so many opportunities, but I don’t identify solely as an Australian or as an Ethiopian. My little brother Kendly is from Colombia, I’m from Ethiopia, and my parents are Australian. So we call ourselves Aussicolopians. It’s a little family name we have and it incorporates all of our cultures. You hear adoption stories…

Suit sayer Anyone thinking the suit’s boundary ends in the boardroom is mistaken: in jewelled tones, as here in emerald green, or a high-shine fabric, it’s fair game for after-dark settings. Shirt tales The starched work top gets a shake-up with out-of-the-box patterns and sculptural forms that blend in any day of the week, out-of-office inclusive. In the fold Pleat skirts convey an office-worthy poise and polish, but add a micro top – or bikini if you dare – and this desk-bound look becomes drinks-destined. Set to go Today’s suits are about as far from stuffy as you can get. The fresh way to wear is by flashing some skin – either at cocktail hour or in workplaces where a less formal atmosphere now permeates. FIT FOR THE JOB Want…

1. “I have a workspace on the first floor of our home overlooking a field of banana trees that catches every sunset. The peace and quiet of island life helps me to go back to what inspires me most, whereas before, when living in Amsterdam, I could get sidetracked by the city’s latest trends.” 2. “In terms of accessories, I look to Cala de la Cruz for swimwear and beautiful lightweight sarongs, which I love to wear. [For jewellery], Simuero for yummy big pieces to go with small summer outfits.” 3. “I admire the style of Kai Avent-deLeon, the owner of New York’s Sincerely Tommy lifestyle store. It’s feminine and cool.” 4. “I’m in love with every piece by clothing brand Bode; the unique pieces, the details, embroidered texts and…

“BEAUTY IS IN the eye of the beholder, and for those of us bored with the conventional, a host of designers are experimenting with materiality and pushing the boundaries of form and function. These pieces, blurring the line between utility and art, are anything but ordinary.” Character piece “Design greats like Gaetano Pesce believe that modernism is less a style than a method for interpreting the present and hinting at a future in which individuality is preserved and celebrated.” Brave new world “There are no rules here; just fun, courage and experimentation.”…

MAHALIA CHANG Vogue’s Sydney-based head of digital content and growth Mahalia Chang, 29, on learning to embrace her Indonesian, Australian and Scottish heritage. THE PHRASE ‘I’M not like other girls’ is so overused these days. It’s a line we used as teenagers, desperately trying to solidify the wispy beginnings of our identity. I’m not like other girls, I don’t wear pink. I only hang out with guys. I hate girly stuff. Ugh, boy bands? Never heard of them. And if that ‘solidifying’ occurred while you were walking the tightrope of a mixed-race identity, the assertion of being different was a little more zealous. The cutting lines of internalised racism and self-hatred can be sewn deep and early, and ‘not like the other girls’ atrophies into ‘I’m not like other Asians.’…

When we first meet Odessa Young as Jane Fairchild in the opening seconds of Mothering Sunday, it is her steady gaze and utter stillness in addition to those pillow lips and flawless skin that captivates. The sum of which director Eva Husson calls “her visual charisma”. The film’s opening line, Once upon a time, before the boys were killed, which Young narrates, is taken from the Graham Swift novel the film is based on. It establishes the action that mostly takes place in 1924 on ‘Mothering Sunday’ – a day when maids, such as Young’s Jane, are given the afternoon off to return home to see their mums. The narrative travels through Jane’s lifetime: telephones ring, church bells sound and time rewinds. The film is a masterpiece of understatement, an…

Virgil Abloh was a fashion designer who always did things differently. His path to the very top of the fashion industry – as artistic director of menswear for Louis Vuitton – was anything but conventional. And when he reached the apex of the fashion world – as designer for the world’s biggest luxury brand as well as the founder of his own very successful label, Off-White – he made sure he brought others up with him. Even the way he managed his illness, and death in late November at the age of 41, was unorthodox, preferring to keep it private with those closest to him, and to focus on his work. An aggressive and terminal form of cancer would have slowed most people down, but Abloh was unlike any other…

BLOW UP This season there was a continuation of fashion’s affinity for voluminous shapes, with brands like Molly Goddard and Halpern updating standout overblown silhouettes from past seasons. However, it was the debut runway show of 25-year-old designer Harris Reed that put a new gender-neutral spin on the trend, embodying fashion’s desire to break free from confines in a post-lockdown world. Harris Reed, as reviewed by Benji Park TIKTOK: @FASHIONBOY “Reed grew exponentially off social media during lockdown after being initially catapulted into the spotlight by Gen Z poster boy, Harry Styles. He then utilised this to showcase his gender non-conforming, upcycled pieces. Nothing is more Gen Z than growing a genderless, thrifted fabric-sourced brand on social media with Styles as your star.” THIS MOD LOVE Harking back to the…

“Just when I was looking for proof that the mini-skirt is back, this playful matching set provides it. Acne Studios’s Johnny Johannsen leans into unexpected pairings: a hip-hugging mini paired with overly long sleeves. Together the proportion play feels fresh and appropriate for warm afternoon parties.” – ARQUETTE COOKE, DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR “This look from Blumarine is the double-denim, crop-topped, early-noughties dream reimagined. The masculine shape of the low-cut jeans is offset by a refreshingly imaginative top – it’s the perfect combination of cute and cool.” – HARRIET CRAWFORD, JUNIOR FASHION AND MARKET EDITOR Exaggerate the street feel of utility pants by sizing up. The right counterpart comes via a second-skin slinky bodysuit to dial up the glam factor. “At Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada slashed pants and skirts as low…

When Alexandre Arnault moved to New York in January of 2021, it was a very different place from the one he’d grown up visiting. The city, of course, was in the throes of the pandemic’s winter surge – muted streets, shuttered theatres, abandoned parks. But the emptiness gave the 29-year-old LVMH scion a chance to see the urban landscape anew, and to absorb a little on-the-ground inspiration – which he promptly funnelled into his new role as executive vice president of product and communications at Tiffany (LVMH had bought the brand that same month). It was an essential re-education, even for someone familiar with the east-coast metropolis. “If you were to ask anyone in the world to name three New York brands,” he says, “probably the first one that comes…

Sometimes, just sometimes, Milena Smit misses being a receptionist. That was her job in a hotel in Murcia, Spain; before that, she was a waitress. She loved those jobs, loved the connection that she could make with a customer or a colleague as she solved problems and fielded requests. “I try to enjoy everything I do,” says Smit, speaking through a translator from her living room in Madrid. “It’s not that I really want to go back to doing them again, but I miss it sometimes,” the 25-year-old admits. “I live in a very different world now.” That world is one of movie sets and magazine covers and red carpets and best-dressed lists; at events, Smit has worn super-sheer Saint Laurent, chain-embellished Givenchy and a slinky Cong Tri halter dress.…

1. EAT A PEACH BY DAVID CHANG “Life at the top of the global Momofuku restaurant empire ain’t all ramen and fluffy pork buns. Chef David Chang’s memoir is honest about his stumbles and struggles, particularly with his mental health as he grows up, fast, and finds his feet within success, as a chef, boss, husband and father.” – SM 2. JUST KIDS BY PATTI SMITH “Patti Smith, a gift to all of us on this fair Earth, is forever youthful, no matter her age. A tumultuous, tender, New York rock’n’roll love story.” – SM 3. JERUSALEM THE GOLDEN BY MARGARET DRABBLE “This book is a frothy delight – all a bit too much of everything, but exactly enough of what I love. Clara is the kind of protagonist who…

Well red For a top-to-toe statement, update classic red lips with style cues in the same vivid colour palette. Gel with it Pencil and liquid liners produce precise lines, but if it is a free-hand application you’re after, forgo the brush and apply gel liner to lids with your fingertips. New tricks If you’re playing with a single shade across lips and eyes, do as make-up artists do by contrasting gloss and matt textures. Eye know The nuances of application propel make-up into art. Here, it’s a teardrop wing against a glass-skin canvas and brushed-up brows.…

WE ALL KNOW stress – and its sidekick cortisol – can lead to skin flare-ups. But a growing area of research known as psychodermatology, recognises the link between our emotional state and our skin, as well as the need to address them concurrently. That’s particularly useful given a national study by McCrindle found one in four Gen Z’s reported the biggest impact of the pandemic has been on their mental health. It’s also the reason a growing cohort of brands are using cosmetics as the conduit to open meaningful discussion about mental wellbeing. Here are the brands championing mind over matter. RARE BEAUTY While Selena Gomez’s Rare Beauty spans make-up, skincare and tools, to call it a straight-up beauty line wouldn’t paint the complete picture. Since launching in 2020, the…

Maria Grazia Chiuri, like many of us, is navigating the technical difficulties of inter-continental Zoom and wireless earphones. “I’m not so digital,” she confesses with a laugh as she connects from Dior headquarters in Paris. “My daughter helped me.” Twenty-four-year-old daughter Rachele Regini has just slipped out of frame to leave her mother, silver-blonde hair pulled back in a ponytail, black jumper and recognisable kohl-rimmed eyes, squarely on the screen. Chiuri is in her sixth year heading up the global luxury behemoth that is Dior, becoming the often-noted first-ever female creative director of the French house in 2016, after 17 years at Valentino. From the beginning, she has marked the tenure with honesty. Rather than cultivate the image that she is a lone visionary, struck by the unpredictable winds of…

Good morning and welcome to your workday. Congratulations on hitting your VR headset workout target this morning. Please log into your workplace avatar, the 3D representation of you that mirrors your movements, expressions and gestures. Reminder: you have a client presentation in the metaverse – would you like to browse through the work looks you’ve purchased from digital boutique DressX? How about a suit from rising Swedish designer Placebo Digital Fashion House or signal your real-world love of prints with this DressX Kandinsky shirt? Your meeting is at the client’s customised office space, with the Andrés Reisinger chairs from his recent digital furniture NFT auction. Please wait for all avatars to fill the room before you begin the fully immersive slide show in 3D. No, nobody will tell you are…

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AQUARIUS 21 January–18 February Who will you be and what will you do next? That voyage of self-discovery starts now. The Full Moon in your partnership zone may reveal who’s a keeper and who’s not, and a rare meet-up of Venus and Mars on Valentine’s Day could bring a clearer picture of what committed love truly looks like. Taking care of your assets is a priority, too. STYLE ICON: Amal Clooney PISCES 19 February–20 March The New Moon sharpens your intuition. Retrograde Mercury has been messing with your ambitions, but now you can kiss and make-up on both fronts, with Venus and Mars sealing deals on Valentine’s Day and potentially turning a friendship into a romance. A Full Moon flags up self-care, just as the Sun sets your personal power…

IT ALL STARTED WHEN ... Silvia Venturini Fendi, as head of accessories, debuted Fendi’s Peekaboo handbag at the brand’s spring/summer ’09 show, and it quickly became a cornerstone piece for the Roman house. Its unique clasp and front-flap design acted like a blank canvas on which successive creative directors could apply their vision, from the monochromatic to more eccentric iterations. Now, current womenswear artistic director Kim Jones has let fly with a striking new energy. This edition’s whorls of electric colour evoke the cross-section of an agate stone in lysergic lines – or Roman marble, a motif Jones has enjoyed riffing off since his arrival at Fendi just over a year ago. Like the designer’s loosening up of the Fendi monogram, this print continues his playful subversion of house icons.…

Jon Ervin New York-based photographer Jon Ervin captured up-and-coming Australian actress Odessa Young on location in Brooklyn’s Marine Park for the feature ‘Forever young’, from page 128. “It was a seamless and collaborative experience all around,” he says of his first time working with Vogue Australia. “Odessa contributed to every image. From the beginning of the shoot, she understood our direction and let herself take on this character from the story,” he explains of the 24-year-old actress. Of the shoot’s collective effort, he adds: “We had a lovely team that worked hard to create these images and that’s all you can really hope for on these shoots. That’s what makes them memorable.” Jonah Waterhouse For this issue, 24-year-old Vogue fashion features and news assistant Jonah Waterhouse sat down with 23-year-old…

JAMES J. ROBINSON The 26-year-old photographer, filmmaker and writer is based between Melbourne, New York and Los Angeles. CAN YOU RECOUNT A SIGNIFICANT MOVE OR STEP IN YOUR CAREER THAT TURNED OUT TO BE A TURNING POINT THAT LED YOU TO WHERE YOU ARE TODAY? “Living in America, your level of ‘success’ is measured by the largest invoices and the biggest celebrities you get to work with. I was admittedly roped into this world when I first moved to New York, wanting to attain that success and pay my rent comfortably. But when I did, I found it unfulfilling … I came back to Melbourne for a holiday and instead chose to photograph my Filipino family. Going from shooting Kylie Jenner to shooting my family and friends was an important…

WHEN SOPHIE LAWRENCE PARKER and her husband, musician Kevin Parker, moved from Western Australia in 2019 to live Stateside part-time, they didn’t expect that their new house – a Spanish hillside home in LA’s Los Feliz – would feel so much like home. “LA almost feels like Perth, but on a massive scale,” says Lawrence Parker. “We fell in love with the Bronson Canyon area first, and were looking for more of a mid-century house.” She was hesitant then when a real estate agent convinced her and Kevin to visit a 1920s-era property instead. But “as soon as we saw that arch window in the living room we were sold”, she says. As the co-founder of sugar-free ice-cream business Denada, Lawrence Parker operates her business remotely. Trans-Pacific travel and touring…

I remember the first time I was guilty of what we would now call ‘virtue signalling’. I would describe the action in two words, and if you’re about my age, 25, these words will induce a full body and soul cringe, or you won’t know what I’m talking about. The words are: Stop Kony. For those who aren’t familiar, Joseph Kony is a Ugandan warlord, and in 2012, a non-profit called Invisible Children ran an awareness campaign about his crimes against humanity. Teenagers were implored to do something, including changing their Facebook profile picture to a square containing the words: ‘Stop Kony’. At 16, I was one such teen. Needless to say, I did not ‘stop’ anything. When I talk to friends about their experiences with activism and social media…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA: FIRSTLY, CONGRATULATIONS ON PLAYING CATWOMAN. WHAT DREW YOU TO THIS ROLE? ZOË KRAVITZ: “When my agent called me and said they were making a Batman film and they wanted to meet me for this role, it was exciting for almost superficial reasons in that we’ve all grown up with this character and she means so much to us culturally. But then I met Matt [Reeves, The Batman director] and read the script and it became about something else for me. He had written such a wonderfully complex female character and sadly those don’t happen all the time, so it was this incredible combination of a very big movie, but one that had so much depth and heart.” VA: CATWOMAN’S PHYSICALITY AND STRENGTH IS KEY TO HER CHARACTER. WAS…

Prince Harry wears one. So do Twitter’s Jack Dorsey, Jennifer Aniston and Miranda Kerr. How does Kim Kardashian West sleep at night? Optimally, according to feedback from her Oura ring: Once, after a restful eight hours, she awoke (at precisely 7:22am) to a sleep score of 93 out of 100, which she then posted to Instagram. “Okay WHAT??” Gwyneth Paltrow replied. “I thought I was killing it at this Oura ring game … I guess not.” NASCAR drivers wear them. At the onset of the pandemic, the NBA ordered more than 2,000 rings to outfit players, coaches and staff in their Orlando bubble (Will Smith and Shaq are investors in the company). “Looks like a tracking device,” observed former Laker Kyle Kuzma. And he’s absolutely right. I wear one too,…

Gladys Lai: “We’re a generation where our first real step into adulthood coincided with such a defining moment in history, forcing us to take stock of the things that matter. There was this thing looming over us, this idea that the planet is deteriorating and there’s a lot that we can do to stop it, but it’s easy to feel powerless. It can really impact the way that you think about family – like, do we want to have kids? Where are our careers going to be in 10 or so years? What can we do to stop what feels inevitable? It’s stressful.” Jonah Waterhouse: “Do you think it would be less bad if we didn’t have the constant connection to social media?” GL: “Social media is a double-edged sword.…