Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2022 i Vogue Australia

OF ALL THE unique accoutrements we layer on our bodies, jewellery is arguably the most personal. Whether an understated pearl pendant, or vividly coloured decorative earrings, the regalia we wear speaks volumes about our personality. But while an elegant necklace may seem like a sensible choice, recent jewellery trends reflect investments in individuality, eschewing the idea of a ‘safe’ purchase. Specifically, talisman-style necklaces and brooches with large pendants dominated runways for autumn/winter ’22/’23, from coaster-sized silver worn around the neck at Chanel to thick, crystal-adorned amulets at Alexander McQueen. Gabriela Hearst’s monochromatic clothing at Chloé was complemented by chunky heart-shaped locket necklaces, with the charming addition of miniature keyholes. It bears wondering whether a life-altering pandemic has unlocked a new desire for self-expression among wearers, leading to jewellery of the…

GLAMOROUS, EXCITING, INNOVATIVE … much like art,” says Chiara Gatti, senior head of category management at Farfetch, describing high jewellery, a category traditionally dominated by an elite band of storied jewellers. Gatti’s characterisation goes part way in explaining why the ranks of fashion houses in the realm of rare gemstones and fantastical creations is growing. Joining names like Dior, Chanel and Hermès is Giorgio Armani (now in its third year of offering high jewellery) and Gucci (which recently secured itself a dedicated jewellery boutique in the mecca of jewellery, Paris’s Place Vendôme). “High jewellery is still typically by invitation only, behind closed doors and very, very discreet. The nature of fashion is not discreet,” Gatti observes, noting that, via the presentation of their distinct points of view each season, designers…

URWAH NAWAZ Winner 2022 Future Innovators Award, PhD student and co-creator of Vertere, seeking to design a smart mattress for those with mobility-limiting disabilities. At 26, Urwah Nawaz has completed a biomedical science degree, developed an interest in coding and pivoted to bioinformatics. She is now in the last months of a PhD at the University of Adelaide in the field of neurogenetics while on exchange at UNSW Sydney. Then there's Vertere - named for the Latin verb 'to turn' - the idea she is working on with co-founder and mechatronic engineer Kate Leone. The pair aims to create a low-cost smart mattress to enable regular movement in bed for those with a mobility-limiting disability, without the need for a human carer. For Nawaz, this creation is highly personal; her…

Long story To keep hair in check no matter the season, apply a nourishing mask from mid-lengths to ends before whipping strands into a top knot or plaits to seal in moisture when venturing outdoors. Sheer delight Transparent slips over swimwear belong beachside. So, too, does opaque metallic eyeshadow stretching all the way from lash line to brow. More is more Spring to summer, accessories come in all forms: OTT earrings, shapeshifting hairstyles, and platinum paint strokes across lids. Shell shock Comb the beach for beauty inspiration and get handy with a mother-of -pearlinspired manicure, worn short or long. Mixed metals The best match for golden rays? Sand-swept accoutrements on nails and whisper-soft lashes. Soft focus If you’ve typically reached for classic red or bright orange lip shades come summertime,…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA: Like our skin, when it comes to our hair, what changes can we expect over time? DUNCAN RICHARDS: "The natural ageing process causes many of the same symptoms in hair that it does in skin - dryness, thinning and a loss of elasticity. One of the key changes is that our bodies experience a natural decline in collagen production, which is an important protein for keeping our skin and hair looking and feeling healthy. Also, the sebaceous glands that produce sebum - the natural oil that lubricates our hair shrink with age. This decrease in sebum production makes hair drier and can lead to brittle hair that is more prone to breakage." VA: We treat skin-related concerns with active ingredients. Should we be doing the same for our…

Rochas dress, $1,205. Cartier earrings and ring, both P.O.A. Chloé shoes, $1,715. Fendi dress, $3,890. Caroline Reznik bralette, P.O.A. Hermès gaiters, $2,310, and $2,595.…

IT ALL STARTED WHEN … a young Louis Vuitton arrived in Paris in 1837 and identified a peed for the creation of hard-wearing, specially made trunks that jyould protect travellers' treasured personal effects, The house of Louis Vuitton, trunk master, opened in 1854 and has grown into a global fashion empirey while remaining, as it was from the outset, the choice of the discerning traveller. That mindset of innovhtion is echoed eloquently today by current womenswear creative director Nicolas Ghesquiere, whose ability to marry eras past and present produces something entirely modern. The fruits of this effort are often presented in far-flung locales, the destinations themselves never predictable. For resort '23, Ghesquière chose La Jolla, San Diego's brutalist Salk Institute, itself a soaring monument of modernity by architect Louis Kahn,…

Jake Terrey Jake Terrey, a Sydney-based fashion photographer who has been working with Vogue since the age of 22, captured homegrown model Catherine McNeil for his first cover for the publication. “The only real goal I ever set myself was to do a Vogue cover by the time I was 30. [It] took me two more years than that, but here we are,” he says. When quizzed on his favourite image from the feature, the creative cites one of the shoot’s most memorable moments. “Impossible to say, but the McQueen look we shot at the end of the day will always remind me of how incredible Cat is,” Terrey tells Vogue of the image plastered across page 139. “It was wildly cold and windy, but she was always able to…

“INTRODUCING THE JET-SET vagabond lifestyle, where the romance of travel is back with a vengeance. All paths lead to remote islands lapping up bacchanalian bohemia and wild new frontiers where freespirited adventure soars. Make your home a global mix of layered holiday memories, so we can cling on to that feeling of freedom eternally. No one and nothing rules, except love.” Visual voyage “Throw the rulebook out of your travel carriage. Mix pastels with primaries and welcome complementary clashes instead of fixating on tonal matching. Blend roughs with smooths, matt with sheen and never, never stick to just one style genre; create your own utopia. Be free, let loose. Don’t think, just do – go!” Souvenir spirit “The cult of personality reigns supreme – it’s all about improvisation, shapeshifting to…

vogue jewellery The antithesis of confinement may well be a tiara. Jean-Marc Mansvelt, CEO of French jeweller Chaumet, says 2021, a year still deep in pandemic stultification, was a banner one for the storied 240-year-old house. It was “the absolute record in terms of sales of tiaras”, says Mansvelt from Chaumet’s headquarters above its refurbished Place Vendôme boutique in Paris. Chaumet tiaras have been worn by everyone from the maison’s first major client – and eternal muse – Empress Joséphine, wife of Emperor Napoleon I, to the glamorous Edwina, Countess Mountbatten of Burma, who was the last vicereine of India. Now, Mansvelt says, tiaras are mostly worn by brides and then kept in the family until the next wedding. “The first reason is really about weddings. Typically, either one person…

vogue culture MUSIC For Alex Turner, time is moving slowly, and the Arctic Monkeys frontman is using his to quote the cult book Inherent Vice by Thomas Pynchon to Vogue Australia. Some 20 years after Arctic Monkeys first formed - then, four scruffy teenagers kicking their heels in a back garden in Sheffield - Turner is sitting in an East London hotel looking towards the future and Arctic Monkeys' seventh album, released on the cusp of another new era for the group who have continuously retooled what that means. "It reminds me of when Doc is in this new place, surrounded by people acting like regulars, and he feels out of place," Turner says, referencing the novel's protagonist. "He thinks about going back to his apartment, but he's worried about not…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA: How did you two originally cross paths? JOSEPHINE SUKKAR: "About 15 years ago, it became apparent to us at Buildcorp that women's rugby union wasn't supported in the way the men's was and it began a journey that ultimately culminated in us becoming the major sponsors of the Wallaroos, of which Alisha was a member. Buildcorp as a company has been sponsoring rugby for more than 31 years and over that time, it did occur to me the transferable skills people like my husband and his teammates learned from being part of a rugby team that they took into business and into life, that there was this opportunity women were missing out on." The other thing that interested me about rugby union, the 15-a-side format, is that it's…

vogue beauty Since he first set foot backstage, September has always been a busy month for Peter Philips. "Everything is very compacted. Because we have the shows, and then again in December, more shows, quite often with trips. There are a lot of things happening," says Philips from his office at Parfums Christian Dior's Parisian HQ, where he has led the brand's make-up collections since being named creative and image director of Dior make-up in 2014. Philips's tenure within the beauty industry and his ever-creative approach, to both the runway shows he works on and the Dior make-up formulas he develops, could be traced back to his formative years studying fashion. Hailing from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts - fellow alumni include Dries van Noten and photographer Willy Vanderperre,…

After nearly two decades of long-haul flights, early call times and 12-hour days on set, hairstylist Nate Rosenkranz was at the end of his rope. He hadn't fallen out of love with his craft, but he had grown weary of everything that came with it - so much so he began to question his career path. He was, simply put, burnt out. But for Rosenkranz, burning out didn't look like it does in the movies: a law student collapses at their desk after a string of late nights, or an overworked executive has an office outburst and quits on the spot. Burnout is typically sneakier than that, says psychologist Michael Leiter, a leading researcher on the topic and co-author of the book The Burnout Challenge: Managing People's Relationships with Their…

The first thing Nicolas Ghesquiere does when he arrives in New York City is look out the limo window on his way from the airport, gazing with deep interest at the kids on the street. "It's a very different street style here than in Paris, a unique combination of fantasy and function. A New Yorker wears athleisure, but then will put luxury pieces on top. I love it! I am always so inspired here." It’s been more than two pandemic-plagued years since Ghesquière – who since 2013 has been the artistic director of women’s collections at Louis Vuitton – has been in Manhattan and he is relishing doing the simple things he’s missed so much. “This morning, I woke up so early. I walked around the reservoir and had breakfast…

Eor more than a century, British Vogue has enjoyed the rarest of relationships with the Royal Family. Barely 10 years younger than Vogue itself, the late Queen Elizabeth II, one of the most photographed women in the world, is certainly the most steadfast face to be found in the pages of the magazine. Of Her Majesty herself, its historic archive contains boxes of prints and drawers full of transparencies and illustrations of ceremonial portraits, official souvenirs and private moments. There are press snapshots, candid pictures at home and on holiday. Most are pristine, some are suffering the vagaries of age, all are remarkable. Many made it to the page, but many more have remained unseen. Princess Elizabeth first appeared in Vogue in 1927, just a year old, at her mother's…

Coffee, pastries and scintillating conversation were on the agenda at the Vogue Codes breakfast series presented by Audi and held around the country in August this year. Part of Vogue's Codes initiative, which inspires young women pursuing careers in STEM, the 'In Conversations' saw outstanding female leaders in their field share insights on different codes-related themes. The first breakfast kicked off in Brisbane at GOMA's Roof Terrace, treating guests to panoramic views over the city and Brisbane River. Here, Vogue's deputy editor Jessica Montague was joined by guest speaker Katrina Donaghy of blockchain company Civic Ledger for an illuminating talk on 'Sustainability and Tech'. At Sydney's Opera House the next day, Vogue editor-in-chief Edwina McCann welcomed attendees to the dazzling harbourside venue before leading an esteemed panel - which included…

I was at an all-time low when I decided I wanted to try to fix everyone else’s problems. My head was a mess and my heart was broken. It was one of those years where every month brought a new sadness – an annus horribilis, I think they call it. And, in a mean-spirited move from Fate, My Bad Year also coincided with THE Bad Year – 2020. The most horribilis of all the annuses. During that time, I pitched myself as an agony aunt to my editor at the Sunday Times Style. I had always wanted to be an agony aunt. In my adolescence, I would buy teen magazines and immediately skip to the problem pages. Sex was discussed in my house, I imagine much more than it would…

vogue viewpoint CURATED BY 1. “I love LRNCE ceramics and textiles, and Popolo dishes.” 2. “The basket bag is a classic summer accessory that can be worn from beach to bar.” 3. “I love that [photographer] Guy Bourdin’s creative and artistic vision takes precedence over the product photographed.” 4. “Assouline collections of different countries, beautiful places and unique creators are a favourite. You can escape to a beautiful summer destination any time just by opening up a book.” 5. “Our philosophy at Eres is ‘the art of the body’. We love to design and create swimsuits to fit like a second skin and suit all women’s bodies and needs, so my best advice on finding a swimsuit to suit your body would be to choose the style you feel the most…

SPIKE INTEREST punk spirit has crept in of late, and Cartier’s to-the-point pieces tap a youthful energy while keeping a versatility in classic proportions. A matching set packs extra rebel punch. SILVER SERVICE Understated silver has a stealth cool that those in the know are recognising. Invest in chain-link necklaces, bangles and earrings with an industrial edge à la Tiffany & Co. WRIST ACTION Bold cuffs are commanding attention and when laden in jewels, or stacked one on top of the other, transmit an outré glamour, whether paired with a floorlength gown or a simple white T-shirt. DIALLED UP Choosing a matching band and watch face is the fresh way to add a colour accent to any look. Paintbox brights are the style note to follow.…

A shadow can be open to interpretation: child’s play perhaps, the anticipation of the theatre or a feeling of something not easily accessible. The juxtaposition of darkness and light, of what is concealed and what is revealed, is something Pierre Hardy, creative director of fine jewellery at Hermès, aims to explore in Les Jeux de l’ombre (shadow games), his seventh high jewellery collection for the house. Hardy plays with expectations of high jewellery in the new 53-piece collection. It’s an MO he has explored since first taking on fine jewellery at Hermès in 2001, adding the maison’s high jewellery universe to his responsibilities in 2010. He first joined Hermès in 1990 as creative director of women’s, and then men’s, shoes. It is a role he still holds, along with his…

“THROUGH THE DISCOVERY of other places, we weave a universal and timeless language where the past, present and future are combined. We’ve been working with Maison Cartier for more than 20 years and have helped these concepts evolve, and here in Sydney, nature and all its components gave us the key. “For the design of the new store, we were inspired by the aquatic world where waves, reflections and soft mists create a floating universe. The nature is wild, luxuriant, of an infinite richness with flora, fauna and unique minerals. Our aesthetic is also influenced by the sun and the contrast of light and shadow that goes with it.” Cartier’s new boutique is open this month at 388 George Street, Sydney, coinciding with the reopening of Cartier’s reimagined historic Paris…

vogue culture ART Do Ho Suh has a rather unique way of familiarising himself with spaces. "When I found myself measuring my student studio in the US, shortly after leaving Korea … a lot of my thinking coalesced," recalls the artist to Vogue. "It was a deeply instinctive urge, a way of acquainting myself with a new environment." Of course, there's nothing peculiar about measuring nooks in a new apartment. But the motivation behind Suh's cartography is slightly different. Many of the South Korean-born, London-based artist's most renowned large-scale artworks, fashioned from bright textiles or resin, are replicas of places he's come to know intimately, having lived or worked inside them. "It's become an emotional part of the practice for me," says Suh, of his measuring ritual. "I need that deep,…

It's September 2019, and Catherine McNeil is backstage at Burberry's spring/summer '20 show, one of the most anticipated events of the London fashion calendar. It not only marks creative director Riccardo Tisci's third collection for the esteemed British fashion house, but McNeil's, too. As one of the designer's favourite faces, McNeil has walked in all three shows. The show caller waves her over, and she takes her place alongside Kendall Jenner, Irina Shayk, the Hadid sisters and noughties It-girl Agyness Deyn, who is making a much-anticipated return to the runway. Then it's showtime. As the likes of Naomi Campbell, Dua Lipa and FKA Twigs look on from the star-studded front row, McNeil emerges onto the runway wearing a beige trench coat and sheer stockings that reveal her trademark tattoos, her…

I am running out the door of my apartment into a premature spring day in Melbourne when I feel a buzz from my Apple Watch. It's not reminding me to stand up again. It's not telling me my Uber is approaching. It's declaring that now is the #TimetoBeReal. I pause next to the dumpster, swipe my phone open and channel my inner Tumblr teen as I angle the lens up to capture both the clouds and my own face, squinting into the golden hour light. Pause, pose, post. Later, at dinner with my girlfriends, we take pictures of each other and our food. Some make it onto our Instagram Stories, others become the sixth or seventh instalment in a photo dump weeks later. Most will languish forever in camera roll…

Coffee: "Same Same But Different cafe at Cerritos Beach. Founded by a collective of young, diverse individuals, with coffee that's 100 per cent Mexico-made, its motto is 'Do what you love.'" Cocktail hour: "Hotel San Cristobal, which sits on a fishing beach at Punta Lobos. You can watch the sun go down and disappear into the horizon at the exact level of the pool." Art gallery: "La Sonrisa de la Muerte in Todos Santos is a gallery and workshop celebrating the production and exhibition of graphic art. It proudly focuses on work by Mexican artists." Inspiration: "All around Todos Santos, there is artistic inspiration, from the brutalist-inspired design of Paradero hotel to the sheer expanse of the desert filled with cactus and wild fauna." Packing essentials: "Swimsuits (plural), a hat…

SCORPIO 24 October-22 November A key partnership may go through changes now thanks to a Full Moon eclipse that could potentially make, break or adjust the course of the connection. There's a focus on worth, values and money and a New Moon signals that a new approach could work in your favour. Trust your instincts, as Jupiter brings back joy to creativity and love. STYLE ICON: Alexa Chung CAPRICORN 22 December-20 January You could alter your point of view now with a Full Moon eclipse making you reassess what or who gives you the most pleasure in life. A new mindset could evolve, with the cosmos bringing you deeper revelations. Jupiter makes you unusually open now also, with asteroid Vesta adding warmth and depth to communications. STYLE ICON: Nicola Peltz…