Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2023 i Vogue Australia

TRIBUTE The joy of Westwood is in the drape, the wicked corset, the curvy cardigan and the Tiny Orb so potent it holds the flame. The DNA: the rip, the riot, the royal. That MiniCrini … we wore it all. We walked tall. She punked us and we loved her for it. We were going nowhere fast, Never Mind the Bollocks, “God Save the Queen”. God help us all as we slashed our tights and stuck safety pins through our ears. It was dark fun. It was hard, it was fast, it was life-changing. We touched the edge of freedom and it felt good to be bad. Reckless, feckless, run fast through the streets, shout, laugh, get drunk, just be a punk, for a minute. Then we grew up, pause…

Anyone who follows fashion, and many who don't, are familiar with the spectacle on Coperni's spring/summer ‘23 runway. Supermodel Bella Hadid walked onto a platform, where scientist Dr Manel Torres and team sprayed a dress onto her nude torso with the aerosol material Fabrican. It clocked 10 million views on YouTube, narrowly skirted TikTok's nudity rules, and made Coperni one of the season's most talked-about brands. A model by trade, Hadid's celebrity status is undeniable; in 2022, fashion search engine Tagwalk revealed shows featuring Hadid garnered 825 per cent more clicks than those that didn't. Put simply, it was a match made in online engagement heaven. And it wasn't the only appearance of its type this season. Bones and All actor Taylor Russell opened Loewe's floral dreamscape collection, performer FKA…

There's never been a better time to dress for yourself. Gone are the days of piling on skin-tight, form-fitting looks to draw the male gaze – the new mode of sexy dressing celebrates the inner self and represents a shift of female designers catering to a more inclusive size range with an aesthetic that is unapologetically feminine. Motherhood, rolls of skin and all the parts of our lives that have traditionally been disregarded by fashion and labelled as unappealing or unsexy are now on full display in sartorial celebration. For proof, look to rising designers like Elena Velez, who consistently casts a diverse set of models, and challenges the obligations and multifaceted roles of being a woman through her clothing. Elsewhere, Greek designer Dimitra Petsa of label Di Petsa has…

No one's path in life is ever certain, but if Labrinth had wanted to avoid becoming a world-renowned, Grammy-nominated singer, songwriter and performer, he would have had his work cut out for him. To say he grew up in a musical household is a bit like pointing out the Williams sisters were raised a bit sporty; his family's East London home hummed with a soundtrack that ran the full gamut of tastes and styles and genres. “If you imagine my house when I was a kid, my sisters would be upstairs singing R'n'B and pop music, and one of my brothers was downstairs playing jazz. Then my other brother would be playing WuTang, dance music, garage – everything you could imagine,” says Labrinth, who was born Timothy Lee McKenzie in…

BOOKS Has the world drifted further apart? For Eleanor Catton, that isn't so much a philosophical question as a physical one. When she and her husband were travelling from their now home in the UK back to Catton's home country of New Zealand at the end of 2022 for the first time since the start of the pandemic, they conferred. “We were like, I'm sure this is further away than it used to be,” she says. Though she admits that feeling could have been the result of the toddler sandwiched between them. Her wide, warm smile just about fills the screen as she speaks from her parents’ home in Christchurch, where the author and her husband have been holidaying over summer with their two-year-old daughter. It was in Cambridge, England,…

Chaumet signatures are to be found throughout the 160-square-metre boutique including Liens (above) and the heirloom-worthy Joséphine Valse Impériale necklace (right), both paeans to a tradition of romantic and royal style – the latter so called after an early famous client, Empress Joséphine. Snag yourself the delicately torquing spirals of the Torsade de Chaumet, each a sculptural feat capturing distinctly French élan in exquisite, expertly set diamonds. The distinct cross that marks Liens, symbolic of two lives crossing paths, make it the collection to ponder in the boutique's new bridal salon. The only decision: just one, or a fistful of the elegantly minimal rings? Echoes of Chaumet's Place Vendôme Paris store can be found in the wheat motif, repeated throughout its heritage-listed Sydney location at 181 Pitt Street, seen here…

Blank canvas Across runways from New York to Milan, models committed to controversially thin 90s brows. Bleached eyebrows also made a return, providing vigour to the simplest of looks. Big, bold, brave At Versace and Dior, make-up artists amped up the drama on striking eye looks with exaggerated wings, black eyeshadow climbing up towards eyebrows, graphic shapes and lashings of mascara. The bixie Reminiscent of 90s rom-com heroines, the bixie cut marries the versatility of the bob with the punkish edge of the pixie. Slick it back or tease it up. Nothing but lip Glowing bare skin and minimalist eye make-up made perfect bedfellows for the striking lipstick shades seen on runways. Just be sure to skip the eyeliner and mascara.…

On paper, Katrina Flokis is like many Australian women – her life is brimming with work, family and everything in between. Her Linkedin profile reveals three decades working in managerial roles across the corporate healthcare sector and she has two grown children who share her home in Sydney's leafy northern suburbs. She also recently enlisted the help of a new personal trainer. “To get some of my fitness back,” Flokis shares. “I'm loving that. Reconnecting with my physical body.” That last comment hints at the unique mindset that sets Flokis apart. Because if you were to meet her out of hours, you would soon learn she is not like most. Every Monday and Tuesday evening and all day Saturday, you'll find her sitting in her front room behind a small,…

Pisces 19 February-20 March Your free spirit could feel tethered now with Saturn moving into your sign. Even so, you'll be taken more seriously as a New Moon and Jupiter usher in a fresh phase of self-belief that could bring you luck around money. As Pluto's shift into your emotional zone helps you wipe the past clean and rebuild, Mars moves into your romance zone to let the love-fest begin. STYLE ICON: Tuppence Middleton Aries 21 March-20 April It's a powerful time for you with the Sun rebooting your energy. Friendships and ambitions could get a radical reset and you toughen up now, too, with serious Saturn ruling your emotions for the next two years. A New Moon and lucky Jupiter in your sign urge you to lean into your…

DAN JACKSON It was incoming editor-inchief Christine Centenera's idea to shoot her first cover in full daylight, eclipsing star Hailey Bieber in radiance. It was a new style of shooting for photographer Dan Jackson – “which was exciting” he says and “beautiful” – but the concept came with its own set of challenges. “I was mostly being blinded by the sun,” Jackson admits, of the need to shoot directly into the skyline in order to capture the beams and flares. “Fortunately, HB was very patient and professional.” The result, from page 121, is all brilliance, and speaks to a fresh era for Vogue Australia. “We wanted something that felt like ushering in a new moment,” Jackson notes. “An evolution for us and something just bigger than we had done [before].”…

Emily Watson It was a case of 16,000-kilometres of distance, during a New York winter, that Melbourne-based designer Emily Watson realised her fondness for Australian summers, ultimately deciding the direction of her four-year-old label. “I was homesick,” she says of a semester abroad while completing a fashion degree at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (RMIT) in 2019. Tapping swimwear, something that instantly evoked home, she began subverting and reconstructing its codes. “It's funny to the people who know me, as I'm not much of a beachgoer,” she says of what now forms her brand's DNA. That hasn't stopped her splicing and lopping her way to asymmetrical separates, leotards and swim dense with ruffles, ties and panels – some individual pieces have 50-plus pieces – in pool-toy brights. Right now,…

VOGUE VANGUARD Nabilah Nordin For Singaporean-Australian sculptor Nabilah Nordin, a regular week in the studio might involve pouring resin on baguettes, encasing a sculpture in deflated balloons and melting kilos of beeswax. “I have 12 different artworks on the go at the moment,” the 31-year-old says of her process. “I'm creatively fuelled when I learn new processes, and when the work does something that, to me, is unexplainable.” From contorted shapes sprouting tufts of silky white hair to epoxy-clad armatures, Nordin's work is ambitious yet playful, and no material is too unconventional. “I don't believe in material hierarchies. Construction materials like timber, metal, concrete and adhesives are just as appealing to me as wax, bread, wigs, walnuts and feathers,” says the artist. “Whatever the material may be, I am always…

As they watch the sun set over the horizon from their Californian home, one of the world's most talked-about couples – he, one of the biggest singers and performers of our time, she a world-famous model and founder of skincare brand Rhode – sit down together for Vogue Australia. Marking the first time Hailey Bieber has been interviewed by her husband of four years, a new era feels imminent for the flourishing mogul, who in addition to the line she founded last year, also has a YouTube channel where she interacts with millions of her fans. While others her age are still finding their path, Bieber knows what she wants, and naturally, the rest of the world is seeing the light. JUSTIN BIEBER: “Welcome everybody, to our home. We are…

David Hallberg was appointed to the position of artistic director in March 2020 and, despite pandemic delays, he has already ushered in a new era of creativity, including the staging of radical Netherlands ballet Kunstkamer in 2022. Hallberg's vision for the anniversary season includes both “refreshing” the classics and pushing the boundaries of traditional ballet, with iconic works such as Giselle, Swan Lake and Don Quixote, as well as Identity, a co-production with the Australian Dance Theatre led by Daniel Riley, a Wiradjuri man and choreographer, set to music by Yorta Yorta composer Deborah Cheetham. Identity will see former company members return to the stage and is supported by Audi, marking the beginning of a multi-year partnership between the two companies as “partners in progress”. “There has to be progress…

Gone are the days when skincare was classed as a simple cleanse and a TV ad-worthy splash of water on the face. Today, it's a non-negotiable twice-daily practice, a personal investment and a retail juggernaut that shows no signs of slowing. Our obsession with skincare is clear on paper: valued at US$136 billion in 2021, the global skincare industry is projected to pass US$205 billion by 2030. It's even more obvious on social media. Scroll through your many feeds and you'll understand the mania. Posts tagged with #skincareroutine have reached more than 24 million (and counting) on Instagram, and on TikTok the hashtag #myskincareroutine has already hit 91 million views. The more passionate the skincare devotee, the more invested they become in innovation, and the more brands want to cater…

On using her spotlight: “My purpose is to use my platform to pay it forward. To inspire women, girls, and all people around the world to do great things, to disrupt, to be confident, and to be future leaders. To advance literacy, equity and access, and to create meaningful impact. When I decide to do a partnership or work with an organisation or brand, I ask how can we knock down as many dominoes as possible just by flicking one. Through the Estée Lauder Companies and the Writing Change fund [a global three-year US$3 million literacy initiative], we are supporting and highlighting organisations that represent the best in their field, who are approaching literacy not just as an educational tool, but as a real instrument of social change.” On inspiring…

Sheer force Embrace the elegant reveal of filmy sheers and featherweight fabric, which give breezy understatement a sultry twist. Floor work Take the minimalist's approach to modern femininity: a long-line skirt that skims toes gives the illusion of height, plus wardrobe mileage when the weather shifts. Scan the QR code to shop Vogue's edit of the best of the trend. Let's ride Biker jackets expand their rebel associations with streamlined cuts for round-theclock relevance. Zing thing Succeeding the domination of bright pink, electric lime has emerged as the striking colour of the moment. Boldly go. Scan the QR code to shop Vogue's edit of the best of the trend. Precious cargo Utility's many iterations this season included elevated takes, like these satin cargo pants, which seamlessly straddle day to evening.…

Caroline Reznik felt she was destined for the stage. A trained ballet dancer, she never could have predicted how it would come to pass though: in front of tens of thousands at Coachella in 2022. Don't be surprised if you don't know her name. It was as an emerging designer that she debuted, her work worn by Grammy award-winning rapper and producer Doja Cat on stage. “You have to kind of shoot your shot. And it paid off,” says the 29-year-old designer based in New South Wales's Central Coast region. It began three years earlier during Reznik's graduate year at Sydney's University of Technology, when the name of Doja Cat's creative director, Brett Alan Nelson, appeared in her inbox. “I don't know exactly how they found me,” she recalls. “I…

Haider Ackermann is jubilant, and it's infectious. Just home from work and dressed in a fresh white T-shirt, his Hollywood-handsome face framed by a boyish new haircut, he is grinning from ear to ear. It's late January and less than a week has passed since the triumphant reveal of his first-ever haute couture collection at Paris Fashion Week, a one-off for the house of Jean Paul Gaultier, and Ackermann's second only runway collection in nearly three years. If you have been following the couture beat, Gaultier stepped down from the brand in 2020 and has entrusted a new designer each season to create a collection. Colombian-born, Paris-based Ackermann, is the fourth and he has cleaned up in the reviews, with The New York Times calling it, “The best show in…

Lisa Pavane, 1980s Lisa Pavane was 28 weeks old when her mother declared she'd become a dancer. “She named me Pavane, after the dance.” Pavane became a principal artist in 1986, and in 1991 returned to the stage just six weeks after giving birth, paving a path of her own. “Motherhood gave me a different perspective on romance, death and tragedy,” shares Pavane, now director of the Australian Ballet School, “so I love that we're seeing women now dancing much later into their lives than they used to.” Gladys Lai (Right) Sharni Spencer 2020s Being accepted into the Australian Ballet was a surreal moment for Sharni Spencer. “You pinch yourself and think they're going to call and say, ‘Oh, actually, we made a mistake,’” she laughs. Even today, after 15…

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1. MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA ON A DATE EDT, 100ML FOR 205, FROM MECCA. Intended to mimic a summer day in France's Provence (where else?), pink peppercorn and blackcurrants sit atop sparkling rose and patchouli notes. Sharp and sweet. 2. TOM FORD ELECTRIC CHERRY EDP, 50ML FOR 540. In another of Tom Ford's signature bold scents (with the hardware to match), sticky-sweet morello cherries and ginger zip across the senses, while jasmine and pink peppercorn work underneath. Not for the faint of heart. 3. GUERLAIN JASMIN BONHEUR EDP, 100ML FOR 560. For Guerlain's newest release, tart apricot and jasmine work in tandem to craft a fruity and earthy experience uplifted by powdery iris. Add to cart Sisley Paris knows a cult product. Fortythree years after first launching its bestselling Ecological Compound,…

SOIRÉE With the announcement late last year that Vogue Australia's fashion director, Christine Centenera, would succeed Edwina McCann as the new editor-inchief, senior members of the Vogue team, designers, friends and family gathered to toast the new chapter at Bondi Icebergs. Centenera was joined by partner Joel Edgerton and a host of celebutantes, including Catherine Martin, Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban, Pip Edwards and Troye Sivan. All enjoyed martinis served by Belvedere Vodka as Centenera and McCann, who steps into a new executive role, delivered poignant speeches. Crackling with excitement, the mood in the room certainly mirrored the reaction from the fashion world at large as Centenera takes the helm.…