Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2023 i Vogue Australia

VOGUE VANGUARD Alvi Chung Australia's sprawling landscapes have long provided inspiration for creatives. For Alvi Chung, founder and director of emerging label Speed, a visit to Kaba Kada, or the Daintree Rainforest, planted the seed for her upcoming debut solo show at Australian fashion week. She describes the collection through a lens of “mystic fierceness”; sinuous skirts, crop tops and jackets channel the beauty of north-east Australia's rainy terrain, along with Speed's curved-hemline shirts, which take visual cues from winding mountain roads. “Since the beginning of the label in 2018, only sustainable or remnant fabrics have been used [by Speed], and often they are from other designers,” Chung says of her pieces, which are made from regenerative hemp, cactibased faux leather, and offcuts of garments from now-defunct label Raf Simons.…

Sabine Marcelis is all or nothing. In fact, she's always been like this. The Dutch artist and designer was raised in New Zealand after she moved there with her family as a child. “I think my parents are very nomadic and very hungry for new experiences, and I for sure have that as well,” she says. It was here, for a time, Marcelis became a semi-professional snowboarder, chasing the winter in New Zealand and America. “I'm a very passionate person, but very hot and cold as well. So when I stopped snowboarding, I really, like, cold turkey quit, and then 180 moved my focus to design and really gave that my all, and still am,” she tells Vogue Australia. “I don't do things medium. It's all in or nothing.” Marcelis's…

Hair: Tamara McNaughton Braids: Jeelan Nadirah Aleem Make-up: Homa Safar. Manicure: Emi Kudo Producer: AP Studio Models: Adwoa Aboah, Devyn Garcia…

EMMA SUMMERTON Fashion photographer Emma Summerton shares it was editor-in-chief Christine Centenera's creative direction that led her to capture a series of images celebrating actor Riley Keough's power, spirit and beauty for the cover of this issue. “We wanted to show her strength but also to embrace her vulnerability,” says Summerton of her vision for the shoot, which took place in California. “She really possesses these qualities all at once, which to me is what makes a great artist. It's beautiful and inspiring.” On communicating a sense of freedom, Summerton reveals: “It was about staying in the moment, keeping things moving and feeling out each picture as it came.” JONAH WATERHOUSE “Even if I wasn't already sure Casey Cadwallader was the right fit at Mugler, my recent call with him…

Two years after Alexandre Arnault made news securing Beyoncé and Jay-Z for Tiffany & Co.'s ad campaigns, when he first became the executive vice president of product and communications at the American jeweller in 2021, and after procuring numerous collaborations with icons of culture and fashion in the same short period, he is making a surprising admission. “It's hard,” he says. He's speaking about remaining at the nexus of the zeitgeist and luxury as he guides the house's messaging and new direction – a demanding job that can't leave room for much else. Arnault was appointed after the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy conglomerate added the luxury jeweller to its stable of brands, one with an over 150,000-strong workforce globally and that has made his father, LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault, the…

CURATED BY For all that's been written about Zoë Kravitz's style and her seemingly perfect balance of feminine ease and masculine cool, her method is simple: “Checking in with yourself first,” states the 34-year-old, who will be making her directorial debut late this year with the provocative Pussy Island, a feminist lens on the power dynamics in billionaire tech circles. “People should dress not based off a trend, but [for] what they want to express. Sometimes I just wake up and feel more masculine and I want to channel that.” She dresses in stages, too, preferring pieces to become “kind of melded together” with her body. “When I put something on, I leave it on for a month,” she says of jewellery, including her Omega timepieces, for which she is…

Look,” Aisha Dee grins, angling her laptop camera to a slouchy, comfy couch in the corner of her living room in Los Angeles. “You're going to be sleeping right there, babe.” The actor wants to make sure that Mabel Li, her co-star in this month's SBS series Safe Home knows that when she comes to LA for a holiday she'll always have a place to stay. Dee, 29, and Li, 25, only met during the Melbourne production of Safe Home last year, but they're already close friends. Almost immediately, this three-way Zoom interview turns into a catch-up session. “You want the truthful answer, or do you want some bullshit?” Dee jokes, when asked how she is. “Mabel, how are you really?” (Li's polite response: “Truthfully, I'm a little bit stressed.”)…

Casey Cadwallader's energy feels rambunctious when he Zooms in from Paris, his silhouette framed by 19th-century rooftops outside his Galerie Royale office. At the time of his interview, it's been a month since Mugler's latest show, autumn/winter ‘22/’23, a nearly half-hour rave-style extravaganza which currently sits at 30 million views on Instagram. It's morning, and by his visibly peppy demeanour, you can tell the brand's creative director is still feeling the buzz. “I must say, it's taken me a little while to recover from it. Mentally, I think it was full of so much risk to do that, it was a real challenge,” he says. At the show, models Adut Akech Bior, Paloma Elsesser and Amber Valletta, as well as Venezuelan musician Arca and viral comedian Ziwe Fumudoh, wore pieces…

Hair: Syd Hayes Make-up: Lynsey Alexander Manicure: Adam Slee Set design: Daisy Azis. Production: Ragi Dholakia Productions Models: Małgosia Bela, Karen Elson, Lara Stone, Mona Tougaard, Anok Yai…

JESSICA MONTAGUE Executive editor My life in a home with two young children and two full-time working parents is one of joyful chaos. I predominantly use products that are tried and trusted and save me time. I'm a repeat purchaser of things I love – Bassike's Mini range, Acne Studios jeans, Saint Laurent pumps, potions from Diptyque and Santa Maria Novella and the highly addictive Clarins lip oils. My wardrobe is full of uniform pieces and most days you'll fifind me wearing a white tee, blazer and jeans with high heels and a great handbag for polish. Two products that give me life each morning are my Smeg coffffee machine and the lactation cookie mix from Cocoon (hint: you'll need to pre-order), which I still unashamedly cook and eat on…

I have been bleaching my hair a solid, uninterrupted blonde – not brassy, not grey, but a shade of pure peroxide, like Barbie or Pamela Anderson – since 2002, when I persuaded a friend to lovingly paint my entire head with a packet of pharmacy powder bleach and let it cook. My scalp burned and itched. Inches of my hair snapped off, but the result was glorious. It was unnatural, and unkempt, and radical – a kind of imperfect perfection that rebelled against the glossy-lipped, high-definition, pseudo-real pop world that MTV was peddling at the time. I didn't want to slip into a pair of leather chaps like Christina Aguilera; I wanted the 70s grit of Debbie Harry. Despite my decades-long desire for nonconformity, I always feel a bit of…

Beauty giant Sephora recently introduced its newest category: Sexual Wellness. Stocking everything from sex toys to personal lubes and libido supplements, as well as menstrual and hormone support, these products will sit next door to Sephora's regular skincare and make-up offering. Alexandra Fine – co-founder and CEO of sex toy company Dame, one of the brands carried in the extensive section – says it's a powerful step in breaking down stigmas around women's sexuality. “Women deserve sexual pleasure, and there's a huge implicit messaging, simply by being in these stores, that opens up [this] dialogue in the minds of women,” she says. Fine believes the category – which will also roll out in physical Sephora stores over the coming months – will go a long way in continuing to bring…

SOIREE The 2023 La Prairie Art Award ushered in its second year in style at the Art Gallery of New South Wales (AGNSW). The ongoing partnership between the Swiss skincare house and the AGNSW celebrated the empowerment of female-identifying artists and their work. Taking out the top award was Arrernte and Kalkadoon artist Thea Anamara Perkins for her portraits of her three generations of relatives, several of which will be acquired by the AGNSW. Guests included Vogue Australia publisher Edwina McCann, Isobel Parker-Philip, senior curator of contemporary art, AGNSW, as well as a range of designers and artists, and for the first time, members of the public, who were treated to a Q&A with Perkins, an intimate lunch and luxury La Prairie hand treatments.…

Taurus 21 April-21 May It's a lucky time for you with Jupiter moving into your sign. Your own New Moon brings a fresh look and attitude, despite a Full Moon eclipse that could move partnerships in unexpected directions. Home is feisty with Mars in the house, so channel your ruler Venus for compassion in all you say and do. At work, a financial revolution could emerge with Pluto in the mix. STYLE ICON: Adele Gemini 22 May-21 June Radical schemes may need to backtrack now as Pluto spins into reverse. A Full Moon eclipse hints at something as yet unknown but ultimately worthwhile around a work issue. As the love and money planet Venus lands in your financial zone this month, Jupiter adds optimism and Mars makes you loud and…

Though each stand on their own as a colossus in fashion, the Hermès Birkin and Kelly are progeny of the same root. Before the Kelly —previously called petit sac pour dame, but renamed after ardent fan Princess Grace wouldn't let it out of her grasp since she clutched it onscreen in 1955's To Catch a Thief – there was an even earlier iteration. One quick google hit and does early 20th century Haut à courroies look familiar? Sensibly built to house heavy riding boots and the heft of a saddle, its trapezoidal generousness and gleaming hardware clasps look Kelly-esque, but more closely mirror a 1984 iteration, which went on to become one the most sought-after bags ever made. The Birkin, sketched by Jean-Louis Dumas for a gamine Jane decrying to…

VIEWPOINT At first glance, Charlotte Lynggaard's desk could be the workspace of a botanist. A spindly, fossil-like seashell here, an anatomical sketch of a flower there – intricate treasures carefully foraged from the natural world. We're in Charlotte's office atelier, an expansive space with lofty ceilings and light timber floors. Sunlight seeps through the many windows which overlook the surrounding Hellerup area of Copenhagen. Here, the headquarters of Danish fine jewellery brand Ole Lynggaard are housed across several handsome heritage buildings. Charlotte, the brand's 56-year-old creative director, sits behind her desk in simple striped knitwear and denim, her dark blonde hair swept back in a low bun, a cluster of softly gleaming gemstones – her own designs – at each earlobe. To Charlotte's right is a large wooden pinboard laden…

Phoebe Go “I just love the art of making something out of nothing,” says Phoebe Go. “Rearranging things you know and feel into some brand new kind of truth, and doing it with total honesty and freedom.” She's been writing music since she was 10 years old and playing in bands since high school. But it was when Phoebe Go decided to trust her intuition and go solo that she found her authentic voice – which dances on folky guitar strings, full of wistfulness and heart – and discovered the joy in sharing it with others. “I was like, ‘Hell yeah, I'm just doing my thing,’” says Go of branching out on her own. “And I'm really proud of myself for getting there even though it was so unknown. I…

It is while experiencing reasonably high levels of time anxiety that I sit down to write this story … about time anxiety. The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) recently released a report claiming the next 10 years are critical in slowing down the progress of global warming, or else catastrophic weather events risk becoming too extreme for humanity to handle. “There is a rapidly closing window of opportunity to secure a liveable and sustainable future for all,” states the AR6 Synthesis Report. As the existential terror of these findings bubbles away in the back of my mind, my prefrontal cortex hums with thoughts of competing work priorities, text messages I haven't replied to and this irrational sense of guilt I'm harbouring for choosing to stay out late with friends…

Hot tip Carmine pigments enliven lashes and lids. Go all in with Chanel Noir Allure mascara in Rouge Grenat layered from the root to tip, or apply it to the ends of lashes only for a flash of fiery drama. Red on repeat Make it a royal flush with regal ruby swept over eyelids, lashes and lips. Inner glow Hydrate the skin with a velvety serum and moisturiser before adding a reflective sheen to the cheek bones, lips and eye lids with a luminous stick highlighter. Tone on tone Lip liner makes a striking return as a style statement rather than an invisible guide. Pair two similar lipstick hues and using an eyebrow brush define colour along the lip line before filling in the pout.…

Where are my socks? I am madly fossicking around in pitch-black darkness. I could have sworn I had put them right here, by this wall. Frustrating … I bend down quickly in one last attempt to solve the mystery of the evaporating socks, and smash my face. Hard. My head spins and I taste blood. I am completely disoriented in the room where I am spending the next eight days in total darkness, silence and solitude. Finally, I retire to the floor defeated, angry and exhausted, wondering why on earth I signed myself up for this kind of torture. For the past six years, my work as a photographer has given me the opportunity to live in Los Angeles and explore more deeply my curiosity about human consciousness. As a…

It's not science fiction … we're on the cusp of seeing human beings become bionic. We're living in a world, where for some, medical wellness retreats are the new nightclubs, scientists are the rock stars and superhuman health is the recreational drug of choice. There are very few things to thank the pandemic for. But the growing wellness movement has been fast-tracked because of covid. A combination of people desperately seeking answers, while wanting intel straight from the source, rather than misinformation channels, saw the velvet curtain yanked back on the previously mysterious world of science. The spotlight hit the health stage; scientists found their voice and revelled in the newfound appreciation of their research and hard work. And thanks to the global megaphone of modern communication, health awareness became…