Indholdsfortegnelse for August 2023 i Vogue Australia

TREND REPORT Giving shade Chiselled sunglasses give a futuristic appeal at Gucci, Givenchy and Balenciaga, blocking the glare and creating an air of untouchable mystery. Borrow from the realms of high-performance design in technical face-sculpting shapes. Cutting edge Heels were sharpened to the kind of points that looked like they could do damage this season. Ferragamo's red-hot wedges and Saint Laurent's killer slingbacks were literal high points. PRADA A/W '23/'24 GIVENCHY A/W '23/'24 ALEXANDER McQUEEN A/W '23/'24 MIU MIU A/W '23/'24 SAINT LAURENT A/W '23/'24 FERRAGAMO A/W '23/'24 Takes it all As the demands of fast-paced life return, the blown-up bag re-emerged in different variations at Loewe, Burberry and Coach. When toting just a smartphone and keys won't cut it. Lustre for life Oversized gold and silver pendants were the…

At every turn a fresco, a glass chandelier, a sprawling lawn that disappears in the shimmering heat of the day. We are in the Tuscan countryside at the 17th-century Villa Reale di Marlia in Lucca, for French jeweller Cartier's newest high jewellery launch. Inside, in the cool of the villa's ground floor, its shutters open to the spring air and the splash of cool water falling into the semi-circular entrance pool just audible, is a minute treasure. Cartier's director of high jewellery creation Jacqueline Karachi is here to remind us that, despite the immense grandeur around, the most precious things can be small. Barely the size of a bead of water, an 0.92 carat fancy diamond in a delicate shade of grey-violet is winking in the light atop the architectural…

It's a peculiar thing, watching a movie for the first time sitting just a few metres away from its star. Even more peculiar is when said star – 26-year-old Sisi Stringer, Hollywood by way of Brisbane – is also watching the movie, this month's Australian thriller Force of Nature, for the first time. “I'm really nervous,” she yelps, bouncing around in her seat. Stringer's expectations are high. “Bob told me it's even better than the first one.” “Bob” being Robert Connolly, the film's director; “the first one” meaning The Dry, the Eric Bana-led adaptation of Jane Harper's bestselling noir about a tortured detective and a terrible crime, which was released in 2021 and quickly became one of the most successful Australian films of all time. The lights go down. Bana…

Dilara Findikoglu isn't angry. Yes, her clothes are known for a fierce strength, and her models stare down some showgoers from the runway or coolly ignore others, but Findikoglu herself is centred, focused – feeling good. “I feel amazing,” she is saying from London, with a genuine, palpable zeal. In the pandemic – during which the designer hit pause on shows of her self-titled label, started in 2015 – she saw her experience as a keenly replenishing period, all negatives aside. “That time made us all go back into ourselves and our minds that I feel like I've found so much stuff in there. Now I feel very connected with the creative little part of my body and soul.” Findikoglu's transcendent calm is at odds with the weighty subject matter…

Leo 23 July-23 August With your ruler the Sun plus Venus and a New Moon in your sign, you're a magnet for all good things now. Even so, relationships could deplete your energy under the Full Moon's beams and your self-esteem may take a dive. Retrograde Mercury gives you a second chance to put things right, so focus on details and you'll reap what you sow with money and with partnerships. STYLE ICON: Shalom Brune-Franklin Scorpio 24 October-22 November You might feel you've come home now, or may seek a new lifestyle that suits you better. A New Moon suggests empowerment, respect and rewards at work but, as Mercury hits reverse, reconsider who you trust and deep dive into any unresolved issues to head off insecurity. Consider cutting toxic ties…

MARIO SORRENTI Three years after capturing Margot Robbie for her September 2019 cover of Vogue Australia, Mario Sorrenti worked once again with Vogue Australia editor-in-chief Christine Centenera to photograph the homegrown star. “This was even better,” the revered creative muses. “We have now worked together a few times, so we definitely have established an amazing trust.” Confirming the shoot was a collaborative effort, Sorrenti shares that Robbie herself provided great input throughout the process. “Tire entire day was beautiful, and just got better and better with each picture,” he recalls. “Margot was amazing and very generous with her time and energy.” PATI DUBROFF Pati Dubroff is the make-up maestro behind Margot Robbie's most famous beauty looks and joined the 33-yearold on set to create her headturning cover image this month.…

VOGUE COLLECTOR Few things can be identified by the touch of a finger, but such is the case with Prada's Saffiano leather. In 1913, Mario Prada, founder of a newly opened eponymous leather goods store in Milan, patented a water-resistant, hard-wearing hide that more than 100 years later would remain intrinsic to the brand's accessories range, and identity. The process involves embossing brushstrokes onto heated calfskin before coating it in a wax finish. The resultant textured leather is uniquely robust, a quality it shares with Prada's famous nylon accessories, both slotting neatly into the Italian house's pragmatic and functional approach to luxury for real life. It wasn't until 2007 when Miuccia Prada – Mario's granddaughter, today helming the family brand alongside Raf Simons – revitalised a finish that was in…

Many won't know how familiar they are with the work of leather artist Robert Mercier, until they realise he lends his artisanal approach in making bespoke pieces for brands including Schiaparelli and Loewe, among a multitude of others. “I'm an artisan – my priority is [materiality] and the technique to make it work,” he explains of his one-of-a-kind bodices and corsets. Using hand-manipulated leather, Mercier moulds work intended to instil confidence, creating optical illusions in the process: Zendaya's sculpted wet-look leather corset dress that evoked paperthin draped silk for Balmain at the 2021 Venice Film Festival; and Beyoncé's ‘Queen Bee’ futuristic Mugler bodysuit for her Renaissance World Tour. Everything materialises in his studio near Paris, where his inspirations converge. Here Mercier shares his current obsessions with Vogue.…

Margot Robbie, homegrown Hollywood powerhouse, and Greta Gerwig, the Oscarnominated filmmaker behind Barbie, the movie everybody wants to talk about, are grasping for a metaphor. How to describe this film, a blockbuster with an impeccable cinematic pedigree and a cast which is, well, chef ‘s kiss, that wrestles with such weighty subjects as feminism, identity and the human/toy relationship? “Barbie contains multitudes” could have been the tagline. (They went with: Barbie is everything.) “You know at the end of the year when all the awardsy films are coming out and you're, like, ‘I know they're going to be good, but I gotta sit through six very …’” Robbie grimaces. “I don't really feel like I wanna watch something sad.” She is sitting in a hotel suite in sunny Sydney on…

Scan the QR code to shop Vogue's edit of the best of the trend. Pencil in Take a feminine stance on power dressing with the pencil skirt emerging as the newest stand-in for trusted trousers. In leg-lengthening lines, it cuts an equally commanding figure. Call to arms The assertiveness of a muscled-up shoulder gives a new kind of power to daywear: cast an authoritative silhouette. Scan the QR code to shop Vogue's edit of the best of the trend. Hold court The ladylike appeal of a classic pump gets spiked with a femme fierceness in afterdark fabrications, and sharply honed knifepoints. Scan the QR code to shop Vogue's edit of the best of the trend. Waist high It's not all rigour and rigidity, with figure-eight blazers making a convincing play…

It's not always about what's on the surface, but what's underneath that counts. That is, until the interior becomes the exterior and takes on a whole new meaning. Case in point: Miu Miu's autumn/winter '23/'24 runway show where models wore exposed underwear, underpinnings and intimate garments like sheer shift dresses and stockings, initially designed to be concealed. The opening outfit, a simple cardigan and skirt, featured delicate stockings tugged upwards on display. Following them: knits and hooded jumpers devoid of matching bottom halves, instead paired with cotton briefs that exposed the legs and tights that provided a partial cover-up. That energy was matched by Irish designer Simone Rocha, who showed revealing gowns not in the provocative, racy style of “naked dressing” – pinpointed in recent seasons by brands like Versace…

Alice Englert spent a lot of time on film sets as a child. The daughter of the filmmaker Jane Campion, she was raised behind her mother's camera; as a toddler, Englert copied her mum and shouted “action” on the set of Nicole Kidman's 1997 period adaptation The Portrait of a Lady, and she spent many afternoons kicking about in the editing suite of the 2003 psycho-sexual drama In The Cut. (She was eight; if the scenes became too adult, Englert was sent to the waiting room.) A few years later, Englert was the one in front of the camera, appearing in Campion's short film The Water Diary. Film sets were an endlessly fascinating place for a kid, says Englert. “I just remember being amazed at watching adults know exactly what…

In the opening pages of Byron Bay, the first Australian title in the publishing house Assouline's iconic Travel Series collection, author Shannon Fricke recounts the pull she felt to relocate from Sydney to the Northern Rivers. “The call of Byron Bay first came to me as a whisper,” the owner of Newrybar Merchants, the region's beloved retail collective, tells Vogue Australia. At first, the call felt “fanciful” and far off, but “over time, the niggle became an echo, then a screech, then a loud bellow”. She rented a house in the hinterland, packed up her family's lives and began anew. That was almost 20 years ago, and she's never looked back. “Every day living here I'm reminded of the beauty that comes with spending time in nature and with this,…

Beauty influencers want you to know they get it. You're exhausted by the hyperspeed of flash beauty trends that infiltrate our lives at every point. Actually, they are too; “like really, really exhausted”. Slide into the DMs of a handful of content creators, offer full anonymity in exchange for an honest description of the state of beauty under the reign of the algorithm, and they will say things like: “Fearmongering gets views, sadly.” “We've all become shop girls, selling shit people don't need.” “I used to love beauty.” “I can't talk about the things I want to talk about if I want views.” “It used to be about expressing myself, but all I think about is what is trending or what could be trending.” “Trying to keep up with it…

As debuts go there was a lot riding on it. A lot. Such was the expectation when British behemoth Burberry rolled out its autumn/winter '23/'24 collection under newly appointed chief creative officer Daniel Lee. This was not, of course, Lee's first rodeo; his proven design record at Bottega Veneta added to the hype and heat. Lee is from up North in England, a Yorkshireman and grounded. He has wool and tweed in his veins and an innate understanding of what Britishness and therefore what Burberry is about beyond the famous raincoat and the Burberry check upon which its fortunes have been built for the past 167 years. All of us lucky enough to be invited to the show were provided with a hot water bottle and a good wool blanket…

BEAUTY Skin is a visual certificate of health,” said American psychologist Nancy Etcoff in her 1999 book Survival of the Prettiest, an investigation into the science of beauty. It's a sentiment German dermatologist Dr Patricia Ogilvie lives and works by, the international authority on aesthetic medicine joining Etcoff and 16 other internationally renowned researchers as part of Dior Science's Board of Reverse Aging. Together, this powerhouse of experts has identified 12 key hallmarks of ageing, one of them, the mechanism known as cellular senescence – a process whereby a cell stops dividing and lingers, potentially harming neighbouring normal cells. An accumulation of senescent cells can contribute to the ageing process in tissues, including the skin. The board's latest breakthrough, revealed in a 2021 study, focuses on an organic compound called…

Onella Muralidharan, vitiligo “One of my earliest memories as a kid is standing in the hot afternoon sun, covered head to toe in oil. When I was young, my mum would make me do this all the time in an effort to recover the pigment in my skin. I was born with vitiligo – an autoimmune disease that kills off the pigment in my skin cells. I don't blame her for it. I was born to Sri Lankan parents in Bangladesh, and in 1999, if your child's skin is starting to change like mine was, it's a scary time for any parent. My parents always had this view of wanting to cure me, of wanting me to be ‘fixed’. “It was the little things. Throughout my life, my parents would…