Indholdsfortegnelse for August 2023 i VOGUE PHILIPPINES

“What is your secret?” Vogue’s Pam Quinones had asked Dr. Dolores Ramirez, about her joyful demeanor, as she graces our cover for August. The 91-year-old National Scientist smiled as she replied, “I pass down all my stress to my assistants.” So, it goes. Passing down traditions, technology, and tensions. In this issue, we celebrate craft as a tactile experience, those skills that arise from the dialogue between the hand and the mind. The world of the artisan, the artist, the designer, and maybe the scientists, is often marked by starting points, by endless possibilities, by genesis and metamorphosis. This August, we honor the relationship between experience and expertise. From the Michelin starred Kasama’s elevated Filipino fare to digital designs from pop-surrealist Cian Xavier to fashion from basketweaves shot in Batangas…

Gone are the days when tie-dye takes you to the “make love, not war” generation. The print has taken on so much more sophisticated turns. Take for example Altuzarra’s monochrome dyes that play with geometry, symmetry and proportion with no swirls in sight. Rabens Saloner’s suit takes stripes to a new level with alternating rainbow watercolors and midnight vertical strokes. Ulla Johnson lends a delicate touch to shadow-and-light hues through peplum ruffles and bishop sleeves. Meanwhile, a certain red-orange look from Ulla Johnson is all contrast: corset waist and slouched shoulders, blood red and terracotta orange, and sunburst cores on square patterns.…

A FEW MONTHS BACK, Bayo presented a traditional Filipiniana dress to Jana Šedivá, Ambassador of the Czech Republic to the Philippines, which will be showcased at the Litoměřice Museum. The town where the museum is historically significant; this was where our national hero Dr. Joze Rizal once met Austrian teacher Ferdinand Blumentritt and became lifelong friends. It took the Bayo Atelier more than a month to craft the Filipiniana. There was a need to be intentional as each element used should properly show Filipino materiality and craftsmanship. A team at the HARVEST (Heritage and Artisanship Reimagined as a Vehicle for Economic growth, Sustainability, and Technology) Creative Community Hub collected materials from Northern regions in the country, particularly from Ifugao, Kalinga, Abra, and Mountain Province. Meanwhile, Bayo collected handwoven textile from…

FEATURE “They speak the quiet language of craft: sifting with eyes, engaging in the habit of exquisite stitches, fingers becoming intuitive, their minds collective” MUMBAI IS A CITY THAT INSISTS ON DENSITIES. Horns beep incessantly and the cawing of crows and mynas fill the sky. Lush bougainvillea hedges jostle above the sidewalks, fenced in by iron grillwork that slip into curlicues. Indo-Saracenic buildings flaunt their obsession with handsome moldings and eclectic flourishes. At almost every corner, onion domes peek through. Here, courtyards unfold into another, with doorways and archways collapsing into the next, ushering an infinity of Mughal patterns. Sentinel Banyan trees tower over the tide of townsfolk. An urban patchwork of faded glory, Mumbai will not let you forget its history. It is history in the remaking we see…

FEATURE WITH BACK-TO-BACK SHOWS, world tours, and a life on flights, nothing feels more exhilarating for J. Rey Soul than the opportunity to catch her breath and slow down. “I prioritize sleep, because you know, I’m a singer, I need to take care of my voice, my vocal health,” the newest member of the Black Eyed Peas says. “I make sure I have a humidifier–which I didn’t bring today, especially I’m in Vegas–and, you know, I workout, and do the steam and sauna, and pray before I get on stage.” In collaboration with her LA-based Filipino dermatologist, J.Rey has curated a collection of self-care tools as part of her travel essentials. Her doctor’s orders consist of using a two-step facial mask on board to minimize the appearance of pimples, a…

ACCORDING TO THE WORLD ECONOMIC FORUM REPORT GLOBAL GENDER GAP REPORT FROM JUNE, the Philippines, New Zealand, and Australia have the highest gender parity among East Asian and Pacific countries. If young Filipinas today have an edge, no doubt that this was carved out by the many trailblazing women who came before. Heroines in their own right, these revolutionaries are educators, scholars, writers, and artists. Here, we pay tribute to five pioneering women who have paved the way and showed us how to live a meaningful life. They are our national treasures. Literally, too, as Alice Reyes is a National Artist for Dance and Dolores Ramirez is a National Scientist. These women traversed challenging waters and anchored themselves on the world stage. They achieved tremendous milestones over 250 years combined,…

“THIS MASK IS MEANT TO SYMBOLIZE THE GROWING TREND OF CENSORSHIP AND CANCEL CULTURE in today’s society,” Ciane Xavier says as she dons a piece of jewelry that covers half of her face. The bas relief sculpture of a human head with rabbit ears, a recurring motif in her work, was created in her home studio, intimate compared to her main space where large sculptures are fabricated. In this room, she keeps a specialized 3D printer for liquid resin printing and its required curing machine. Sets of tiny scrapers and pliers are arranged on her work desk, along with jewelry hardware components. Against the wall is an Alienware desktop, which she uses to design games and render sculptures. Ciane’s jewels are palm-size, provocative versions of the human-scale figural sculptures she…

QUEEN’S GAMBIT By TICIA ALMAZAN Photographs by MIKEY SANCHEZ Styling by NICHOLAS CENTOFANTI PAGE 26 TEAM CREDITS: Makeup: Alex Levy. Hair: Robert Bradley. Stylist’s Assistants: Griffin Drake, Dan Centofanti. EVER AFTER Photographs by KOJI ARBOLEDA Creative Direction by EUGENE DAVID Fashion Director PAM QUIÑONES PAGE 46 TEAM CREDITS: Makeup: Anthea Bueno, Don De Jesus. Hair: Jay Aquino, Jaymar Lahaylahay. Talents: Cath Sobrevega, Jess Wilson, Mari Jasmine, Shaira Luna. Nails: Extraordinail. Production Design: Justine Arcega-Bumanlag. Producer: Mafia Escasinas. Production Assistant: Ian Urmaza. Photographer’s Assistant: Gab Villareal. PAGE 46 Tiffany Victoria line necklace in platinum with diamonds, Tiffany Victoria Vine climber earrings in rose gold with diamonds, Tiffany Soleste half circle ring, fancy shape Tiffany Soleste ring, Victoria Vine ring in rose gold, ALL TIFFANY & CO. HER OWN BEAT By ZOFIA…

MIKEY SANCHEZ Photographer, Queen’s Gambit “Craft is creating using one’s imagination, inherent talent, learned techniques, sources of inspiration, and personal expression.” BILL WATSON Hair Stylist, Cut Couture “I suppose craft for me means the dedication to practice to a point when the skill becomes natural in your repertoire. It then releases more options for you to express yourself creatively. It kind of represents your love and passion for what you do.” DEVI DE VEYRA Writer, Connecting Thread “Craft is a threedimensional articulation of our beliefs, aspirations, stories and memories. That’s why it is important for us to have a deep appreciation for the handmade traditions from the Philippines’ different regions, because the sum of all that is our collective identity as Filipinos.” JANA ZABARSKA Stylist, Where The Wild Things Are…

WEIGHT IN GOLD This season’s most eye-catching accessories invite a closer look. Body decoration comes in beautiful gold ornamentation, enhancing the beauty of amorphous pearls and smooth gems. By RENEE DE GUZMAN & TICIA ALMAZAN. Fashion Editor DARYL CHANG TWINED AND TWISTED Light, sandy hues set the tone for natural weaves that are anything but ordinary. For an extra punch, look at pieces accentuated by raven details in leather. By NEIL DE GUZMAN & TICIA ALMAZAN. Fashion Editor DARYL CHANG…

OPINION The word “craft” (in rabbit ears) is typically assigned to things thought to be ratherbut-not-quite art. For example, “craft” is a “tribal” ikat-dyed textile while art is the Picasso or Warhol. Rather, Art, capital A. Craft on the other hand is inevitably spelled with a lower-case c. The asymmetrical hierarchy between A and c has been well established since the Renaissance. Not only in the Euro-American world. Few notice A’s unremarked assumption of superiority to the inferiority of c. Still, there’s always the vexing foils to the A/c binary. The Costume Institute exists imperiously within the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, magisterially indifferent to silly ideas about fashion as not-art. That fashion is some kind of “craft” has long ago yielded to reason. Jewelry sculpted by…

JEWELRY SHAIRA LUNA “It is a vintage dress, date unknown, with a partial label that says Patricia Fae. I love how the dress looks like it came straight out of one of my childhood storybooks, with its little lace details and unique buttons. My friend was in an ukay-ukay in La Union when he came across this piece. Knowing how much I love vintage, dreamy dresses, he went ahead and bought it for me because it was only PHP100.” MARI JASMINE “The designer is Danielle Frankel. I love the square neckline and tulle off-shoulder details. For me, it’s a modern silhouette that feels timeless. The dress is special as it has a stretch to the fabric that accommodated my little baby bump.” CATH SOBREVEGA “I personally designed my three wedding…

EVERYONE HAS A STORY TO TELL ABOUT MARCH 2020—where they were, what they were doing, how their plans got derailed when the entire world shut down. For chef Timothy Flores and his partner, pastry chef Genie Kwon, fate seemed particularly cruel. They’d just passed city inspections and received their business license for Kasama, the bakery and modern Filipino restaurant they had envisioned opening in Chicago, when all dining establishments were ordered to close for two weeks. In the face of extraordinary uncertainty, without knowing how long the pandemic would last and how long it would take for the industry to recover, Flores and Kwon soldiered on in the pursuit of a long-held dream. Building the restaurant during the pandemic was certainly anything but ideal, but it was still, on some…

SHOPPING In recent years, Olivia has been exploring the sculptural possibilities of fabric, working with Philippine-grown abaca that has been hand-woven by artisans in Cebu. Her taste in furniture naturally extends to organic shapes and natural materials that have been finely crafted by hand.…

Tapping into a garment’s surface potential, designers are exploring fashion as a sensory experience. How? According to Balmain, through sculpted weaves that create tension between sturdy materials and pliable curves. Off-White and Alberta Ferretti school us on nature-inspired appliqués: the former with a midnight floral frock that’s more feathery than bloomy and the latter with sprays of body-hugging botanicals that leave room for skin to peek through. Zimmermann on the other hand layers lace upon lace, making a regal high-low frock delectable as decorative icing on cake.…

DESIGNER PROFILE On the evening R’Bonney Gabriel was crowned Miss Universe 2022, every item on her webstore was tagged with two words: Sold Out. Her namesake fashion label wasn’t exactly under the radar, but the influx of orders was still a feat for the beauty queen and eco-conscious designer, who has been sewing clothes since she was 15. The first dress she made was a strapless polka dot red dress, she recalls, and she used to source “unique pieces that didn’t fit right” during thrift and vintage shopping sprees with her mom, who would alter these ill-fitting garbs on a sewing machine. Without realizing it, R’Bonney’s mother had introduced her daughter to upcycling. MIXED BAG As a teen in high school, upcycling was just one of many interests that R’Bonney…

dark ALLURE Goth goes glam as this season delves into the supernatural world of Tim Burton. While lashes at Chet Lo mimicked bat wings, dark siren eyes, lips dyed in noir, merlot, and lazuli, flicks sharp and sinister, and graphic shadows set the moods for Valentino and Rodarte. At Christian Dior, makeup artist Peter Philips opened with a rough handed, gel-made smokey eye, while the runways of Givenchy, Etro, and Chanel couture went for subtle gray finishes. skin DEEP Fresh faces took center stage as runways continue to envision what’s next on skin. At Alexander McQueen, makeup artist Lucia Pieroni took skin shine to another level with an elevated wet look in highlighted face contours and glossed up hair. Light bounced freely on glasslike canvases at Giambattista Valli and Schiaparelli…

What does it mean to stand the test of time? For British brand Toni&Guy, it signifies cultivating spaces for creativity and marrying haute couture with hair styling. Now in its 60th year, Toni&Guy celebrates decades of producing thousands of the world’s most talented and award-winning hairdressers, winning more than 80 British Hairdressing Awards along the way. Among them include educational director for Toni&Guy Japan and Southern Hemisphere Bill Watson, British Colour Technician Of The Year Finalist of 2022, and International Technical Artistic Director Francesco Fontana, and Toni&Guy Philippines Head Mane Cherry Reyes. The team shares their collaborative vision with Vogue Philippines. THREADS THAT BIND “We started by looking at the story we wanted each look to tell,” says Bill, “for some, we used previous creations as base to grow from,…