Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2017 i Vogue

Franca Sozzani 1950 – 2016 As we all know, women do not always beat the odds. But in planning our March issue, we decided to take a moment to celebrate the strong, original female designers who have shaped our industry and who never stop inspiring and provoking us. Just like the incredible models on this month’s cover, these bold and unconventional women show us new ways to think and engage with the life that is changing so fast around us. Sadly, as we were preparing to go to press, my dear friend (and counterpart at Italian Vogue) Franca Sozzani lost her battle with cancer. I can think of no one more creative, bold, or inspiring. I dedicate this issue to her. Franca and I both became editors in chief in…

Olivier Rousteing “When I was growing up in Bordeaux in the nineties, Paris and its fashion world seemed a whole lot farther away than just a six-hour car ride,” says the Balmain creative director. “I was a good student, but I would often find myself lost in daydreams—almost always triggered by the amazing images of that era’s fashion. I was enthralled, watching as fashion transformed itself and the world around it—in particular the music that my friends and I listened to. Runway shows of that time were like nothing that had come before—I loved the liberating and invigorating energy that was on display, especially from someone like Gianni Versace, who always reminds me of how intoxicated I was by fashion.” VOGUE, 1995. PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEVEN MEISEL. Georgina Chapman “When I…

For Hubert de Givenchy, his first visit to the Château du Jonchet 40 years ago was a coup de foudre. The dilapidated, mist-swathed eighteenthcentury mansion, encircled by a moat, reminded the great couturier of the mysterious house in Alain-Fournier’s 1912 novel Le Grand Meaulnes; he fell in love on the spot. “How could one resist the building’s harmonious restraint, and the well-preserved beauty of its natural surroundings?” he noted. Built in its current incarnation in 1763 around an earlier structure by the architect Gabriel de Lestrade, the château once served as a retirement home for the Duchesse de Tourzel, governess to the children of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette, but had fallen into a ruinous state by the 1950s, when the architect and urban planner Fernand Pouillon stepped in to save…

the Curtain in Shoreditch, London, the latest project from the Gansevoort Hotel group, features 120 rooms, a private club, and the first outpost of chef Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster restaurant. The rooms’ eclectic decor fuses an industrial New York feel—exposed brick walls, oversize paned windows—with artwork by British rock photographer Mick Rock that plays o! the hotel’s live performance space, modeled after New York’s landmark CBGB. Guests can try out Samuelsson’s all-day taqueria and bar, which o!ers frijole breakfast and spicy tacos, or head upstairs to his brasserie before a dip in the year-round rooftop pool. A three-hour drive south to East Devon takes you to Lympstone Manor, a Georgian estate newly renovated by chef Michael Caines. Occupying 28 acres of parkland overlooking the Exe estuary, the property has 21…

The words belong to Diane von Furstenberg, but the sentiments could be those of any of the designers we honor in this issue—not to mention some of the feistier members of the new generation of models who grace our cover—each of them showing us that the rules about who and what is beautiful are being swept away. For the !rst time in the 125 years of Vogue’s existence—an anniversary we start celebrating this month—we’ve crafted a portfolio featuring solely the women of the fashion world. What better way to recognize not only their contributions to how we get dressed every day, but how their interests and concerns, their hopes and joys and fears, dovetail with our own? We spoke to them about their backgrounds, their careers—and their spring 2017 collections,…

When the songwriter David Byrne and the director Alex Timbers were casting the lead of their new rock musical about Joan of Arc, the follow-up to their deliriously funky 2013 bio-dance-musical smash Here Lies Love, at the Public Theater, they wanted to !nd someone who brought more to the role of the pious teen warrior who dies for her faith than singing and acting chops. “We were looking for a connection to the spiritual,” Timbers recalls, “and the belief from moment one that this was someone extraordinary that we would follow on any quest.” After many auditions, Timbers remembered Jo Lampert, a young singer, actress, and DJ with a big, bluesy voice, a semi-shaved head, and impeccable indie cred but no agent, who had been in his 2008 show Dance…

amid the lush green forests of the Ise-Shima National Park in central Japan, sharp-eyed kites see a scene beneath their wings that resembles a Japanese village from a centuries-old woodcut. Single-story minka villas, their slanting roofs scalloped with gray-green kawara tiles, rise discreetly among maples, cedars, and cherry trees along curving, rock-edged paths. The hillside tumbles to the glittering Ago Bay, where skeins of pearl-oyster nets embroider the surface of the water. A single detail gives away a contemporary time stamp: White golf carts, instead of rickshaws, convey guests around the recently opened Amanemu resort to the restaurant, library, lap pool, and spa—whose terraced onsen baths are fed by a geothermal hot spring nearly a mile belowground. It was here over a long weekend last fall that I let my…

This is a landscape an art-therapy patient might paint to represent depression: gray sky and a sweep of featureless peat rising out of the sea. The water is the same color as the clouds; it is !ecked by white-capped waves, spikes of black rock, and, intermittently, the silvery spines of dolphins. I pace from room to room in the empty house, testing out the silence with occasional noises: “Hi! Ha! Who! How!” My "ngers are sti# with cold. When I open my notebook, I fumble with the pages; I struggle to grip the pen. I write the title of a journal entry: “Bleaker Island, Day One.” Beneath it, an attempt at a beginning: “I am living alone on an island.” What I’ve written sounds like a metaphor, so I clarify:…

The old way of fashion creation—designers inspired by fashion itself, using the things we wear to spark ideas about making the things we’ll want to try next—is being upstaged. Now there’s a new group of designers—Sander Lak at Sies Marjan, Jonathan Anderson at J.W.Anderson and Loewe, and Jonathan Saunders at Diane von Furstenberg, among others—who, while long accustomed to curating their own physical environments via the collecting, assembling, and arranging of everything from furniture to pottery to rugs and textiles and beyond, are honing not just their designs but their take on what they do, their view of the world, and what their labels stand for. In a search for value and a kind of permanence in our increasingly frenzied world, they’re looking past fashion and its mood board–centric aesthetics…

Spring’s brightest statement—LED lighting—illuminated its way across some of the showiest runways in the game. Dolce & Gabbana engineered towering block heels with embedded lightemitting diodes. At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld released handbags with blinking, scrolling motherboards seen through perforated leather amid a runway of supercomputers, an ode to mass technology. Issey Miyake is making purses with e-reader–like screens. Recently, Nike introduced its self-lacing Mag high-tops; 89 pairs were made, each featuring a light-up sole pulsing with cyan illumination. Even Cottweiler, the edgy men’s streetwear label out of London, proposed LED navel piercings for its fall 2017 collection. Last October, Nieves Zuberbühler preempted the trend by wearing a shorn-off Brandon Maxwell dress with bulb-ringed platform sneakers at the after-party of her Halloween nuptials to Julio Santo Domingo—and she’d do it again:…

The strikingly original new PBS Masterpiece drama To Walk Invisible: The Brontë Sisters drops us into the oppressive Yorkshire parsonage where the creators of Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights grew up. Set from 1845 to 1848, it gives us the three adult sisters— ambitious Charlotte (Finn Atkins), inwardly roiling Emily (Chloe Pirrie), and peacemaker Anne (Charlie Murphy)— who fight to get taken seriously in an era so dismissive of women that even their father (Jonathan Pryce) can’t see they’re more talented than the family pet, their alcoholic brother, Branwell (Adam Nagaitis). Closer in spirit to Mike Leigh’s Mr. Turner than, well, Masterpiece Theatre, the show was written and directed by Sally Wainwright (Happy Valley), who grew up eight miles from the Brontës’ village of Haworth and clearly feels their story…

Falling bombs in 1940s London provide the backdrop for Their Finest, Lone Scherfig’s romantic dramedy about Catrin Cole (Gemma Arterton, excellent), an unassuming copywriter hired to bring a woman’s touch to pro-British propaganda films. Paired with a cynical screenwriter, Tom Buckley— played by Sam Claflin with a pinch of Hugh Grant—she soon becomes the favorite writer of Ambrose Hilliard (Bill Nighy), a faded matinee idol who wears his narcissism like a tuxedo. Even as Scherfig (An Education) heightens the chemistry between Catrin and Tom, she deploys Ambrose as a host does champagne: Whenever things risk seeming dull, she serves up more of Nighy’s sparkle. . . . In Olivier Assayas’s offbeat ghost story Personal Shopper, Kristen Stewart plays Maureen Cartwright, a troubled young American in Paris who dresses a globe-trotting…

The third folksy LP from Father John Misty is just as ironic and irreverent as one would expect from the man who once feigned sleep in the audience of the Brit Awards after losing to Justin Bieber. But the album is not, as its title suggests, Pure Comedy. The former Fleet Foxes drummer (born Joshua Tillman in Maryland) wrote the majority of the songs in New Orleans, where he lived for nearly two years while abstaining from alcohol and, as he put it, “everything else—which is not in my nature.” His knowing jokes are really polemics—“At some point you just can’t control/What people use your fake name for”—that are veiled by country-music chords and harmonious violins. With Pure Comedy, Misty—who wrote for Beyoncé’s Lemonade and Karen Elson’s latest—lands himself somewhere…

Follow the logic of the street numbers and this house is in the wrong place. But once you spot the understated exterior, there’s no mistaking its distinctive stamp. While its neighbors are painted the glossy cream characteristic of the smarter swaths of central London, here the facade has a patina as matte and subtly mottled as an ostrich egg. The house, owned by antiques dealer turned interior designer Rose Uniacke, opens into a hallway almost stately in scale: a sweep of stone stairs, a !replace, a work by Carl Andre (two copper plates) posing as a rug. Commissioned by the society portrait painter James Rannie Swinton in the late 1850s—and thought to be the first purpose-built artist’s studio in London—it was designed with impressive proportions, the better to cultivate wealthy…

The fifties are back—with a contemporary twist. This time, designers like Alessandro Dell’Acqua of Rochas and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana of Dolce & Gabbana (among others) are getting in the retro swing of things with ball skirts and cinched waists in texture-rich fabrics and frothy, frilly lace. “The new generation doesn’t make comparisons to the past— they’re more spontaneous,” says Gabbana. Dolce finishes the thought: “They’re the ones deciding what’s of the moment. For us, the silhouette recalls the fifties, but because it’s reinterpreted with the eyes of today, it’s modern and new.” As for the finishing touch: A prim belt is a modern twist on the wasp waist—and the perfect accessory to polish off a ladylike dress.…

In a small conference room at Google’s New York City headquarters, Yasmin Green is about to get some bad news. Green, 35, is the head of research and development at Jigsaw—the tech giant’s in-house think tank—and the trouble at hand has to do with trolls, those who foment anger and disrupt discourse online. People tend to think of trolls in terms of random harassment, teenagers with too much time on their hands, but these in particular are globally scattered and state-sponsored, targeting journalists and activists, an independent press, or outspoken citizens. Trolls are big, for instance, in Iran, where Green was born (her family !ed to London in 1984). “Iran is really kind of trailblazing in terms of developing digital repression,” she likes to tell people. Jigsaw is a little…

Call it culinary fatigue: Between our aptly named social-media “feeds” and the constant chase to the latest destination restaurants, the days when three square meals were enough to satisfy the appetite seem quaint—which makes this new guard of gourmets all the more of a palate cleanse. These three innovators in the food scene are neither working the line nor brandishing Michelin stars. Instead, they’re staking out their own territories at the intersection of the culinary and art (yes, art) worlds. And for two spheres long dominated by men with bravura personalities, it’s telling that some of the most nuanced voices now inhabiting the gray spaces in between happen to be women. The hors d’oeuvres at an event run by Laila Gohar !ip the script on white-glove fare. The Cairo-born New…

For the longest time, ‘plus-size’ was put on the back burner. It was like, ‘You can’t sit with us—you’re not glamorous!’ ” says Prabal Gurung, explaining his passionate commitment to diversity. Gurung, who is 37 and was born in Singapore and raised in Nepal, has just launched his !rst limited-edition collaboration with Lane Bryant—twelve key looks that include blown-out "orals and nipped-in waists, horizontal stripes and the indispensable cropped biker jacket. Though he is justly proud of all the pieces, Gurung says he is especially enamored of “a chunky knit, a great trench for layering, and a sexy-yetsophisticated jumpsuit to go from day to night.” The collection pays scant attention to the outmoded and frankly dumb assumption that it is impossible to make beautiful clothes for curvier customers. “We designed…

Progress takes strength and vision. The women who lead and shape our culture embody these traits—and share an indomitable pioneering spirit. In making their mark, they have gained a greater—one could say overdue—foothold in the places that matter, from the White House and courthouse to the executive suite and Olympic podium. Take Michelle Obama. The nation’s !rst African-American First Lady left nothing less than a historic imprint on that o"ce. Or Serena Williams, who has conquered the worlds of both sport and fashion. Or Lena Dunham, who is changing the way a generation of women and girls sees itself. Vogue has always celebrated formidable women, and in recent years each of the !gures appearing on the following pages has been featured in the magazine. Our one-hundred-and-twenty-!fth anniversary seems an appropriate…

W eeks before Marc Jacobs’s spring show, an assistant on hairstylist Guido Palau’s team found Jena Counts via an Internet search for candy-colored dreadlocks—a crucial (and ultimately controversial) accompaniment to Jacobs’s rave-inspired collection. A soft-spoken grandmother from Palatka, Florida, Counts had turned an idle-hands hobby of boiling, spinning, and custom-dyeing wool hair extensions into a homegrown business, and after tinting samples in every shade of the psychedelic rainbow, she got a ticket to New York—and a jaw-dropping commission of 12,500 pieces from Jacobs. “You couldn’t even walk in my living room! We had them stacked everywhere,” Counts recalls of the whirlwind production process. By the time she and her two daughters arrived backstage at the Hammerstein Ballroom last September to see their work looped into topknots on Gigi Hadid and…

“I love that old-school look of upholstering everything in the same fabric,” says Lulu Lytle, cofounder of Soane Britain, and her hand-printed fabrics debuting this spring make for the perfect allover textiles. The crisp, leafy designs, seen here in Scrolling Fern and Seaweed Lace, trace back to a leather-bound 1820s French swatch book. “They would look really wonderful in a small powder room or an attic bedroom with awkwardly shaped ceilings,” she says.…

What is a woman supposed to look like? Agnolo Firenzuola was certain he knew. In his in!uential 1548 treatise A Dialogue on the Beauty of Women, Firenzuola detailed the female ideal, specifying, for instance, the correct distance between the tip of the nose and the bow of the lip. “The true and right color for hair,” he wrote, “is a fair yellow.” As for ears, “a middle size is to be desired, with the shell "nely turned.” Firenzuola’s wonkish beauty decrees read as comical now. And yet: Has there ever been an era in which some beauty ideal hasn’t loomed large? In 1900, the paradigm was the Gibson girl, with her corseted wasp waist and waterfall of curls. A century later, women were !ocking to salons for pin-straight blowouts and…