Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2017 i Vogue

LIKE MANY PEOPLE ON THE MORNING OF NOVEMBER 9 last year, I was to be found watching television, transfixed by Hillary Clinton as she gave her gracious and eloquent concession speech. Secretary Clinton writes about that moment honestly in her memoir What Happened, published on September 12. It’s a candid account of the events leading up to the 2016 election, as well as the personal and emotional footpaths of her life that led her to run for the presidency. Our excerpt from this book recounts that very day—when, she says, “my job was to smile, be strong for everyone, and show America that life went on and our republic would endure. . . . I wear my composure like a suit of armor, for better or worse.” After addressing the…

FROM THE TIME HE WAS SIX YEARS OLD, my father wore his difference like his missing eye. His older cousin had shot him with a BB gun, and for years my father sported a patch before he was fitted for a false eye in his teens. Something about the experience enabled in my father a different kind of vision. He began to draw. He drew through his childhood, through his adolescent years. Fantasy creatures and animals and portraits of his mother. He taught himself to pay attention to proportion and placement, to imbue lines with life. Sometimes I think about how my father sat in his room in his mother’s house, stared up at the thin ceiling while bundled against the Bay Area chill, and felt the creative impulse in…

“ITEMS: IS FASHION MODERN?”—the Museum of Modern Art’s new exhibition—is material proof that there’s always more than meets the eye. In addition to surveying the garments and accessories that have come to define contemporary fashion, the show also dives deep into their associations and their back stories (and, sometimes, their future possibilities). The motorcycle jacket? A progression from early–twentieth century policemen’s uniforms. Cartier’s iconic Love bracelet? “A suggestion of subjugation—almost like a chastity belt,” says the program’s curator, Paola Antonelli. She then adds, with an eye roll and a grin: “Then again, you have Kylie Jenner wearing so many of them on one arm at once.” The exhibition—which depicts 111 iterations of specifically branded wares like Hermès’ Birkin bag and Nike’s Air Force 1 sneaker, or generally categorized brackets including…

Petra Collins is both female and a photographer—and, indeed, her work is overwhelmingly about women. Just don’t call her a female photographer. “It’s part of an old way of thinking. It’s just limiting,” says Collins, 24, who is also a model, actress, Selena Gomez music-video director, and the consummate Gucci girl who makes no distinctions between any of those occupations and her work as an artist. The way she sees it, “everything I make is public art.” That would include Petra Collins: Coming of Age, her first monograph, out next month from Rizzoli. It includes an essay by Laurie Simmons and a conversation with Marilyn Minter (they both see Collins in the vein of Nan Goldin), as well as her own diaristic entries on subjects such as battling mental illness…

When facialist Kristina Holey relocated to San Francisco from New York two years ago, she noticed her wait-list-only clientele suffering from increased sensitization, likely due to hormonal fluctuations and overly aggressive prescription-based protocols (not surprising in a city known for its data-driven slant on wellness). So Holey set out looking for topical yet nontoxic solutions, discovering a kindred spirit in Marie-Véronique Nadeau. Frequent trips to the French-born chemist’s Berkeley studio, home to Nadeau’s namesake organic product range, sparked a friendship, followed by a small-run trio of serums that launched last year with a simple philosophy: The key to nursing skin back to its optimal state is to nurture, rather than obliterate, the good bacteria that thrive on its outermost layer. The same idea now anchors Holey and Nadeau’s expanded skin-care…

For a collaboration with Moda Operandi, Costanza Paravicini and her daughters, Benedetta and Margherita Medici di Marignano, of Italian ceramics house Laboratorio Paravicini, dreamed up a tabletop collection dedicated to the night sky. “The Zodiac collection was designed because we were looking for something connected to mystery and a kind of individualized magic,” notes Benedetta. The dinner dishes feature hand-painted astrological motifs, while the dessert plates’ patterns are set against stunning washes of cobalt, in part inspired by Venice’s famous St. Mark’s Basilica clock tower. Harmonious and elegant, even when Mercury is in retrograde.…

EVERY AUGUST, ON MY WAY TO THE MAINE lake where my grandparents bought a cabin 70 years ago, I spend a night or two in Boston at my mother’s house. At some point on this visit—I can’t say why, exactly—I find myself sifting through the condiments in her refrigerator door in search of a jar of apple jelly from Star Market with a best-by date of March 1984 stamped onto its humid lid. The contents, of an amber that has deepened over the years, are receding glacially; my mother uses just a spoonful, thinned with warm water, to lacquer the top of the occasional fruit tart. In high summer, when New England’s farmers’ markets argue loudly for food at the height of its season—beautiful and delicious but darkened by the…

ALEXIS LOWRY: Dia Art Foundation Alexis Lowry was still in elementary school when her father, Glenn, became the director of the Museum of Modern Art. Ironic, then, that her formative art experiences took place south of Fourteenth Street. “My dad and I would walk around the SoHo galleries, and nothing was censored for me,” she explains, looking bemused through Warby Parker horn-rimmed glasses. “I was taken to see a wide range of probably inappropriate art for a ten-year-old, but it gave me a keen sense of looking.” Now 32, Lowry lives in a “tiny garage apartment, quiet and woodsy,” within shouting distance of Dia’s Beacon outpost, where she is an associate curator and working on Particulates, a newly commissioned light sculpture by Rita McBride opening at Dia Chelsea this month.…

The nipple has been freed. But now, how to wear it? Kendall Jenner (above) did so this summer in a semi-sheer scarlet top for day (sans bra, of course) that more than hinted at what lay beneath. And she’s not alone: Bella Hadid and Rihanna are also fans of a blasé take on the deliberate wardrobe malfunction, both on the red carpet and on the sidewalk. These days, a daring après-beach moment might call for a white tank top that is see-through in the right light. Come evening, a diaphanous lace option no longer requires a slip. The key detail is that a visible nipple is not necessarily a bare one, and we recommend at least one layer of fabric—to say nothing of confidence in spades. No need to bust…

LONDON The reverberating influence of local icons like Mick Jagger and Kate Moss still shapes the concepts of cool in London— something Winnie Harlow, a Toronto native who has walked the runway for Marc Jacobs and H&M, learned when she crossed the pond a year ago. “It’s a big thing in London,” she says of staples like full, moist, and exfoliated lips—a Jagger holdover—that have made sheer plumping glosses, such as Buxom’s Full-On Lip Polish in Sophia, a mainstay. Moss’s heavy-lidded bedroom eyes are on similar rotation. “The eyes are so important here,” explains Harlow, who herself layers on multiple mascaras while other women prefer smudging their lids with sultry black shadows, like those in Burberry’s Complete Eye Palette in Smokey Grey. For all of their swagger, the Brits are…

WHEN I ARRIVED AT BLACKBERRY Farm in early June, after a two-hour flight to Knoxville, a dinner of justpicked greens and grilled bread cocooning a layer of homemade pimento cheese had been thoughtfully placed in my room on account of my late arrival. “We don’t have biscuits and gravy all the time,” Blackberry’s proprietor, Mary Celeste Beall, assures me the next morning with a warm smile. We’re sitting in the living room of her Colonial-style home at the eastern Tennessee country resort, whose lush grounds back into Great Smoky Mountains National Park. “You can come here, eat clean, hike, and have the wellness experience that people travel out West for. Not everyone sees that yet,” Beall continues, sipping on a green smoothie. She’s hoping to change that. Beall’s in-laws purchased…

When Ruben Östlund’s The Square premiered in Cannes, on its way to winning the Palme d’Or, everyone left the theater buzzing about its star, Claes Bang: How come we’ve never heard of this guy? In fact, the 50-year-old Dane has had a long career in Scandinavian theater and television, although his six-foot-four-inch frame and dashing looks have tended to get him typecast. (“If the script says ‘A tall, dark, handsome man,’ ” he tells me with a rueful laugh, “that’s my part.”) His untapped brilliance finally finds a larger-scale outlet in this stylish satire, in which he plays a slippery Stockholm curator trapped between the art world’s chic idealism and gritty pedestrian reality. Östlund (Force Majeure) likes to create a collage of tones—The Square is at once funny, horrifying, and…

“This is something I’ve always wanted to do,” says Mad Men creator Matthew Weiner. In a reversal of the long-standing tradition where a novelist heads to Hollywood (e.g., F. Scott Fitzgerald, Joan Didion), the acclaimed show runner is set to make his literary debut at age 52 with Heather, the Totality (Little, Brown). The fall after Mad Men’s finale, Weiner was on an extended “creative vacation,” allowing himself to catch up on books and movies, waiting for a new muse. He found it in New York City, where he spied a lanky, beautiful schoolgirl striding down the block. The tightly coiled Upper East Side noir that subsequently unfolded centers on the privileged Breakstone family and a menacing criminal turned day laborer who becomes fixated on the Breakstones’ only child, the…

WHEN CLAUDIA SCHIFFER FIRST MET EDGARDO OSORIO, the founder and designer of Aquazzura, over a private dinner at Loulou’s in London, it was a magical meeting of the minds, an immediate lovefest. Osorio, a child of the eighties, was beside himself with excitement as he chatted with the iconic supermodel/actor/entrepreneur; Schiffer was thrilled to meet the guy behind the shoe line she adores. But you know how these things go—you have a big talk at supper; you both say, Let’s do something together, blah blah, and then nothing ever happens. Not in this case! “A week after that night, the decision to collaborate on a collection was done and dusted,” Schiffer says, laughing. Barely a year later, Claudia Schiffer for Aquazzura—a charming, highly seductive, very personal eight-piece collection—is happily done…

ON A WEDNESDAY EVENING IN LATE SUMMER, GLOSSIER’S downtown showroom is beginning to fill up with tourists, high school girls, mothers—a typical crowd for a weekday, says founder and CEO Emily Weiss, who often pops into the penthouse turned retail showcase for quality control. Suddenly a trembling college-age brunette named Jaden bulldozes over my exposed toes. She can’t believe she’s in the same city—let alone the same store at the same time—as Weiss. Jaden changed her major to marketing once she became a Glossier rep, one of the brand’s loyal customers incentivized to create product content on their own social channels. Weiss is her idol, she says, and meeting her is a dream in which I am mere background scenery. This kind of thing happens a lot, I quickly learn.…

“Isn’t it nice to be lying down?” Annie Clark asks me, her eyelids growing heavy over her inquisitive doe eyes. All afternoon, the musician has been steering us toward this moment, when she can kick off her shoes and kill two birds with one stone: doing an interview and getting a few moments of rest. She’s tucked into bed at the Marlton Hotel in Greenwich Village, where she has been holed up for several months. Like Clark herself—whose slight physique and high-voltage sound make for a compelling contrast—the room at the Marlton is compact and austere, with a spike of flamboyance: a black chandelier with breasts as bulb enclosures. Clark, who at 34 has been performing as St. Vincent for the last decade, deserves a moment of rest. Her recent…