Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2018 i Vogue

Fashion Culture Beauty There are many reasons why Jack O’Brien’s revival of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s dark 1945 musical Carousel, now in previews at the Imperial Theatre, should be at the top of your theatergoing list—from the beguiling score, which features such classics as “If I Loved You” and “You’ll Never Walk Alone,” sung here by the likes of Jessie Mueller (Beautiful; Waitress) and Renée Fleming, to the choreography, by New York City Ballet wunderkind Justin Peck. But for me, the main reason to ride this Carousel is Joshua Henry as the magnetic but good-for-nothing ruffian Billy Bigelow. After Tony-nominated performances in The Scottsboro Boys and Violet, among others, the ridiculously handsome, charismatic, and golden-voiced Henry, who acts as beautifully as he sings, is poised to take his place as a…

Cameron Diaz remembers the exact moment when she met Gucci Westman. She was on the set of a magazine shoot pegged to 1998’s There’s Something About Mary, and Westman was the makeup artist. “Instead of piling on a new face, she let my skin breathe, mixing and then spot-painting different colors onto every imperfection,” Diaz recalls. “To this day, no one does skin like Gucci.” That light-handed technique—a through line in her work with the likes of Annie Leibovitz and Spike Jonze—emerged as something of a revelation in the nineties, when Kevyn Aucoin’s spectacular spackle encouraged a conceal-and-redraw approach to makeup. “It’s kind of back now,” Westman notes of the recent rush on heavy, face-sculpting products. But her long-held commitment to transparency—in both product layering and ingredient selection—is poised to…

Meet Augustin, a surreal little bunny with a flair for trompe l’oeil. A resin objet d’art with a coat of feathers rather than fur, Augustin (exclusive to Dallas design destination Grange Hall) was lovingly handcrafted by Paris-based plumassier Laurence Le Constant. Trained as a dressmaker, Le Constant operates a Marais studio that’s more couture than taxidermy. The feathers (duck, rooster, and ostrich) she sources are intended for fashion applications, and some come from what she describes as “a secret address in Paris—a very old workshop that supplies Chanel and Dior.” Augustin’s facial expression, along with that of the artist’s other animal sculptures, is inspired by her real-life pets. “And sometimes,” she says, “from close friends—but I don’t tell them that!”…

The desert is a bare land, untouched and open to all possibilities,” explains perfumer Christine Nagel. That isolated expanse—a world away from the Paris headquarters of Hermès, where Nagel took over as the resident nose in 2016—supplied more than the inspiration for her newest scents. It also suggested the medium, resulting in the house’s exquisite first foray into fragrance oils. Evoking a history when anointing oneself was a means of subtle communication, this investigation was sparked by the widely adored Hermessence collection. Created six years ago by Nagel’s predecessor, Jean-Claude Ellena, the original ten eaux de toilette, featuring rare, unexpected notes, command a justifiable reverence. “It’s a kind of Holy Grail,” Nagel says of the line, to which she’s now lent her own long-awaited contributions. Homespun rollerballs these are not.…

WHEN JUDITH MILGROM COMES HOME AFTER A PARTICULARLY stressful day, she likes to commune with the Cindy Sherman clown that has pride of place in her open kitchen. Though there are many other artworks in her Parisian flat that she might contemplate, she finds this funny man in her favorite room oddly soothing. Milgrom, the founder and artistic director of Maje, has lived in this serene Sixteenth Arrondissement apartment for four years. “I looked for a decade for the perfect place,” she says, and though she could have had something far bigger, she loved the human scale of this perch, along with its windows, which frame the treetops and the famous toits de Paris. She subverted its conventional layout, dumped many of the rooms’ doors, made it as loftlike as…

HUNTSMAN, THE TAILORING TITAN OF Savile Row, has cast a mythic shadow across the history of traditional British menswear since its founding in 1849. The discreetly best-dressed characters who have crossed its portals include such unlikely bedfellows as Laurence Olivier and Rudolph Valentino, Winston Churchill and Cecil Beaton, Lucian Freud and Marlene Dietrich, Clark Gable and Lapo Elkann, Lord Louis Mountbatten and Marc Newson. I have always coveted a Huntsman suit, but imagine my delight when I discovered that I could also, for a small mortgage, design my very own Hamish Bowles tweed from which to fashion one. Under the gaze of a brace of stags’ heads (courtesy of a client who left his fitting for a festive lunch in 1921 and forgot to return), I scrutinized the sample cards…

For the wildly convivial Francesco Bergamo Rossi—known as Toto to a legion of friends around the world—conservation is in his blood. He learned the craft of restoration on a UNESCO scholarship, working on iconic buildings and artworks in France and Italy, many in his beloved hometown of Venice, including the facade of St. Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s Palace, and the Tiepolo frescoes at Ca’ Rezzonico. Following university, armed with the knowledge that he gleaned on these work sites, he opened his own company, Sansovino Restoration Firm—many of its projects underwritten by Save Venice, the not-for-profit founded in 1971 that has done so much to preserve the fragile patrimony of the imperiled city. In 1999, a splinter group was established by two art lovers and collectors, Lawrence Lovett and Khalil Rizk.…

LONDON’S ACTOR-OF-THE-MOMENT JAMES NORTON is sipping coffee in front of the fireplace in the cozy drawing room of the Covent Garden Hotel. It’s a cold winter day, and he’s just breezed in from outside, wrapped in a herringbonetweed greatcoat under which he is dressed in brown cords, a gray cashmere sweater, and tan boots. His dark-brown hair is windswept from the weather, and he is good-looking in a classical English way—twinkling navy-blue eyes; fair skin; a generous mouth and strong jaw. He’s so affable, so chatty, so relaxed, you wouldn’t have an inkling that he’s about to go onstage next door at the Donmar Warehouse to play a troubled medic in Amy Herzog’s Belleville. He also doesn’t bear much resemblance to his current starring television role: In the AMC show…

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RAVENEL Having lived variously in the Bahamas, Paris, and New York, designer Rebecca de Ravenel (above) now creates supremely beautiful dresses and jewelry—and, soon, a home-decor line— out of Los Angeles. It’s those deeply rooted island vibes, though, that are ever-central to both her collection and her life at large. “I look at the world through island-covered lenses,” says de Ravenel. “They bring me to a warmer place.” DÔEN For Santa Barbara–born and –raised sisters Katherine (above left) and Margaret (above right) Kleveland—the duo behind the L.A.- based direct-to-consumer fashion collective Dôen—a respect for the idyllic American Western landscape has guided their vision, while Georgia O’Keeffe prints have adorned their studio walls. Now, two years after they started out, their hand-embroidered billowing blouses, hand-printed floral frocks, and handwoven nubby knits…

Table of contents 80: Coat, $6,970; Marni boutiques. Equipment shirt, $228; equipmentfr.com. Cover look: Top, pants, and earring, priced upon request; select Louis Vuitton boutiques. Manicure, Emi Kudo for Chanel Le Vernis. Tailor, Susie Kourinian. Editor’s letter 176: On Fey: Tom Ford trench coat, $8,950; select Tom Ford stores. Altuzarra dress, $1,295; select Nordstrom stores. Manolo Blahnik shoes, $665; nordstrom.com. V Life 240: Trench coat, $2,695; Dover Street Market New York, NYC. T-shirt, $40 for 3; calvinklein.com. Pants, $780; select Prada boutiques. 262: On Davis: Dress, $1,905; Dover Street Market New York, NYC. Boots, $285; ashusa.com. On Kichigina: Dress, $1,593;Dover Street Market New York, NYC. Shoes, $285; ashusa.com. 266: On Headrick: Shoes, $285; ashusa.com. 276: Jumpsuit, $2,820; missoni.com. Manicure, Naomi Yasuda. 282: Coat, $3,370; jilsander.com. Shirt, $850; Barneys New York,…

Hmm, your blood pressure is low. We’ll check that again in half an hour. Is there any chance you could be pregnant? Wait, of course not; you just had a hysterectomy!” The nurse frowns awkwardly as she administers my blood thinners, the shot you get when you can’t even begin to walk, leaving a constellation of needle bruises across the abdomen. I’m getting used to this—the repetition of a mandatory question about my fertility and my half-rehearsed answer, something playful so she won’t feel too awkward about having reminded a very young woman of what she will never have. I’ve tried responses like “Well, wouldn’t that be something?” or “In that case they took out the wrong organ yesterday!” The night before my uterus is removed, my nurse is a…

MOLLY GODDARD WHEN THE BRITISH DESIGNER MOLLY GODDARD FOUND herself at loose ends four years ago—her academic career at Central Saint Martins had stalled—her boyfriend persuaded her to take one more stab at it. Just make the kinds of clothes you love, he told her, put them on your friends, and let the chips fall. Her younger sister Alice would do the styling; her parents would help with staging. “Really, we just threw a party—all my girlfriends were there, with my dresses over their jeans,” Goddard says, laughing. Long story short: Dover Street Market was in the house that night; they took one look at Goddard’s utterly individual, oversize tulle frocks, and placed an order. “I made 86 pieces at my mum’s house, sewing from 8:00 a.m. to midnight for…

ON JANUARY 19, CONDÉ NAST partnered with eBay and Time’s Up to auction pieces from the seventyfifth Golden Globe Awards to benefit the organization’s legal defense fund to support those who have been victims of sexual misconduct. “We’ve always believed in the importance of swift action to support meaningful social change,” said Anna Wintour.…

When nineteenth-century French pharmacist and inventor Stanislas Limousin pioneered the use of ampoules—tiny, hermetically sealed glass vials that facilitated the transport of potent medicines—he may not have imagined them landing on the Los Angeles doorstep of Chloë Grace Moretz. “These are a dream,” the actress recently effused of Babor’s delicate snap-top serums, loaded with active ingredients such as brightening vitamin C. Moretz is “obsessed with healthy skin”; these days, who isn’t? A fervor for resultsoriented skin care has fueled the rise of these single-dose capsules; suddenly they’re everywhere, from New York Dermatology Group’s much-anticipated wellness clinic, where a holistic facial will feature a new trio of ampoules from Susanne Kaufmann’s cultish Austrian line, to red-carpet prep during awards season. Acting like an instant infusion of vitamins, spring launches from Babor,…

The mother shop, as hairstylist David Mallett charmingly calls his flagship salon near Paris’s Place des Victoires, abounds with creature comforts: herringbone wood floors, fresh flowers (courtesy of Léa Seydoux on a recent visit), taxidermy panther in repose. That domestic sensibility—a nod to the Australian expat’s early career, styling for French Vogue and cutting friends’ hair at home—is partly what reels in regulars like Clémence Poésy and Charlotte Gainsbourg. The rest, of course, is all about the hair. Mallett’s refined yet unstudied approach earned him entrée into the newly renovated Ritz in 2016, adding a jewel-box space to his portfolio. But his next move—to an eight-chair studio on the fifth floor at Laure Heriard Dubreuil’s SoHo outpost of the Webster—is undeniably more daunting. For the French-born Dubreuil, Mallett’s spaces always…

The Eight Mountains A quietly defiant, and defining, friendship is forged between two boys of different backgrounds—one rural, one urbane— in Italian novelist Paolo Cognetti’s crystalline, Dolomiteset debut, The Eight Mountains (Atria), a slim novel of startling expansion that subtly echoes its setting. The Female Persuasion No novel could feel more prescient in the #MeToo moment than Meg Wolitzer’s The Female Persuasion (Riverhead), the story of a pair of idealistic young women, college students who bond after an attempted assault on campus only to find their attempts to carve out meaningful lives derailed along with their friendship. Though occasionally slipping into caricature, Wolitzer’s ultrareadable latest illuminates the oceanic complexity of growing up female and ambitious—and reveals the author’s substantial insight into the tangles of gender and power. The Sparsholt Affair…

IN 2018, A FASHION HOUSE IS NOT A HOME—not unless the designer living there is able to transform it so that it reflects our lives and times rather than some vainglorious past. A respectful reverence for the way things once were is one thing, but no one wants (or wants to wear) a timid tiptoe through a house’s greatest hits. Thankfully the last couple of years have seen houses taken over by designers who aren’t interested in just blithely looking back. It’s a big world out there—show that you actually live in it and put out work that’s both personal and real. The appearance of Alessandro Michele at Gucci in 2015 kick-started a revolution in the industry that’s still being felt. Michele was an unknown studio stalwart of two-plus decades…

1 Mombo and Little Mombo, Botswana Sister safari camps within Botswana’s Okavango Delta just got a major facelift: Mombo and Little Mombo, the flagship lodges operated by the African wildlife virtuosos at Wilderness Safaris, were entirely rebuilt. Inside Mombo’s nine tents and Little Mombo’s three, copper tubs and Belgian linens evoke a bygone age of exploration, while outside, leopards, elephants, and black and white rhinos roam. Deborah Calmeyer, CEO of tour operator Roar Africa, says, “It’s luxury in the bush.” 2 Awasi Iguazú, Argentina Perched within the Atlantic Forest in Argentina’s northern Misiones province, Awasi Iguazú is located just 20 minutes from Iguazú Falls, a waterfall system so large it makes Niagara look delicate in comparison. The lodge’s fourteen villas are designed so “you feel like a guest in the…

Trudging through slush, pounding the pavement like a runway, or simply shopping, stylish women are treading lightly in lugsole boots.…

In recent years, there’s been a call to arms for women to give their actual arms a rest by putting down the blowdryer, unplugging the straightening iron, and showcasing a pastiche of natural beauty instead. I’m all for this. To see the world’s individuality reflected back on the runways has been both heartening and logical. We are women, after all; not Lego figurines with one-size-fits-all wigs. Our stories about unruly hair thus tend to conclude the same way, with a burst of self-acceptance. But I must warn you in advance: This is not one of those stories. I have blown my coarse hair straight, or ceded the task to a professional, my entire life, and I have no intention of stopping— not now, not ever. Which presents a problem in…

It can often seem that Issa Rae sprang fully formed from the internet. The writer, actor, and TV impresario was catapulted to YouTube fame seven years ago, when she uploaded the very first episode of a web series called The Misadventures of Awkward Black Girl. In it, Rae, playing a character named J, has a series of hilariously uncomfortable interactions while driving to work in South Los Angeles. The video had the fly-on-the-wall intimacy of Broad City and other web comedies of the time, but it did something quietly revolutionary. In its unvarnished everydayness, the sketch portrayed a young black woman as a three-dimensional person, free of clichés. That single episode—less than four minutes long and made for $25— attracted nearly two million views. Rae now has her own hit…

On the Friday afternoon before Christmas, a dark, chilly Paris is emptying out. Over at the Saint Laurent studio on Rue de l’Université in Saint- Germain-des-Prés, though, the only hint of the impending festivities comes from the enormous fir tree that takes up much of the courtyard, its lights twinkling through the second- floor atelier’s floor-to-ceiling windows. Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director of Saint Laurent for almost two years now, along with his husband and design partner, Arnaud Michaux, and a five-strong team of studio hands and seamstresses, has been hard at it all day on fittings for the fall-winter 2018 collection, the follow-up to the heart-stopping spectacle of his spring-summer 2018 show last September. Vaccarello’s compact frame is clad in his uniform of black jeans, beaten-up white sneakers, and…