Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2019 i Vogue

On a warm June evening last year, the crowd at London’s Village Underground got an unexpected jolt when a platinumhaired Rina Sawayama joined Charli XCX onstage to put her own euphoric spin on XCX’s anthemic chart-topper “Backseat.” Since the release of her 2017 EP Rina, Sawayama has become accustomed to playing packed venues. But this was different. The concert finished at 4:00 a.m. Two hours later, the Japanese-born, London-bred model and musician was on set for Turn Up Charlie, the new Netflix comedy starring and produced by Idris Elba. Music, let alone acting (the Elba production is her first professional gig), is a fairly recent endeavor for Sawayama, who graduated from Cambridge in 2012 with a degree in politics, psychology, and sociology. Her education has left her with an expansive…

In Venice’s Cannaregio sestiere, a lesstrafficked district where arts-and-crafts workshops populate the poky streets, you’ll find the mosaic-tile makers of Orsoni—a historic furnace, first fired up in 1888 and in use ever since. The firm’s glass tiles can be found in the Seussical steeples of Antoni Gaudí’s Sagrada Família, at London’s Westminster Abbey, at Paris’s Palais Garnier, and in the interiors of Venice’s St. Mark’s Basilica—those are 24K gold. Orsoni is also where Michela Nardin of MNMVenezia sources the glass for her handmade tiles: 20-by-20-centimeter squares of colored glass chips arranged into artfully imprecise patterns. (“The broken sides always facing outwards!” she explains. “It adds character.”) In her most recent Motifs collection, Nardin re-created arrangements she found in frescoes or textiles, like a Baroque damask originally designed by Mariano Fortuny.…

Balenciaga’s spring show in Paris was a real brain-bender. “Now is the answer,” intoned a voice over a loudspeaker as models were engulfed in a tunnel of computer-generated imagery. At one point, the room seemed to pixelate. According to designer Demna Gvasalia, the idea was to conjure the experience of being trapped “in someone’s digital mind.” The show inspired rumination on surveillance and data breaches, and all the news about how screen time is warping our psyches. It also got me thinking about hair. Backstage, hairstylist Holli Smith amplified the cyberpunk vibe by pulling back models’ manes and giving them a good shellacking. By the time the fall shows rolled around, versions of that supersleek look were everywhere, with Proenza Schouler, Maison Margiela, and Alexander McQueen all summoning the look…

Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch first met in a classroom at the tiny Institute of Fashion Design in Basel, where they were both studying. Almost instantaneously, they felt drawn to each other’s garments. “I think we naturally came together because we both really love crafting,” Gadient remembers. Soon the two were talking about deconstructing classic silhouettes, manipulating fabrics—and reimagining fashion as something driven by the human hand rather than a trend. Those conversations led Gadient and Bösch—the former hailing from Basel, the latter from a small village in the Swiss countryside—to launch their label Ottolinger, a name borrowed from the moniker on the doorbell of their first studio, in 2015. “We wanted to create our own world within the fashion industry,” Bösch says. They started by relocating to Berlin. Gadient…

In 1956, Howard Hughes commissioned the Finnish-born Eero Saarinen to build a cathedral for his airline, the TWA Flight Center at Idlewild Airport (now known as JFK) in Queens, New York. With its Space Agey, winged shape, the building was an instant landmark in Futurist design. But ironically, when the terminal opened, in the spring of 1962, it was already out-of-date, ill equipped for the volume of passengers that soon arrived at its gates. A longer passenger corridor had to be added in order to zip travelers out to the tarmac, where newer, larger jets, like the 707, were waiting. Over the next several decades, as aviation advanced, Saarinen’s famous contribution to the history of architecture only narrowly escaped demolition; as of 2001, it was operationally defunct. This month, the…

It took me a long time to find my look. I have no real excuse for this, but here is me trying: I grew up in the wilderness of suburban Maryland, a state so bland that its official song sounds like a Christmas carol. I was raised by scientists, by which I don’t mean secret military operatives who could replace my bones with titanium; I mean my dad was a theoretical chemist and my mother an experimental chemist. Their view of the world was so restrained that once, when I asked my mother why the sky was blue, she replied, “Dear, that’s not my field.” I was the only Gentile kid in a Jewish neighborhood, and felt so left out that when I turned thirteen I insisted my parents throw…

2018 HEAVENLY BODIES: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination FROM BALMY, WINE-STAINED lips to twinkling smoky eyes, each beauty detail at the opening night of last year’s “Heavenly Bodies” exhibition read like an homage to celestial elegance. Hovering above Givenchy’s portrait necklines and Iris Van Herpen’s patent corsets, hair and makeup statements echoed the iconography of the show’s ecclesiastical artifacts and couture tailoring: Gigi Hadid’s ethereal, multidimensional eye shadow recalled a religious masterpiece, while Solange Knowles’s exaggerated lash line and intricate headdress raised the question: Is there a more flattering light than the glow of a gilded halo? PRESENTED BY MAY BELLINE NEW YORK 2014 CHARLES JAMES: Beyond Fashion ULTRA-FEMININE CUTS, luxe fabrics, and a flair for lavish parties kept couturier Charles James in demand with Hollywood stars and New York’s…

ANDREW BOLTON, WENDY YU CURATOR in Charge of the Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, has framed his spring exhibition, “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” around Susan Sontag’s seminal 1964 essay “Notes on ‘Camp.’” Sontag’s essay brought the subject—which she defined as the “love of the unnatural … style at the expense of content”—into the cultural mainstream, where, after the Stonewall riots of 1969, it flourished. The exhibition—which runs from May 9 through September 8—is designed by the theater scenographer Jan Versweyveld, partner of the innovative director Ivo van Hove, with whom he has collaborated on such resolutely un-camp productions as Network, David Bowie’s Lazarus, and the Tony Award–winning A View from the Bridge. The clothes showcased in the exhibition—by designers running the gamut from Christian Dior and Cristóbal…

Table of contents: 34: Vest ($1,150) and pants ($890); select Michael Kors stores. Shirt, price upon request; select Louis Vuitton stores. Goldtoe socks, $17 for pack of six; goldtoe.com. Giuseppe Zanotti shoes, $995; Giuseppe Zanotti stores. Tailor, Charline Gentilhomme. Manicure, Sophie A. Cover look: 46: Top, $2,100; select Chanel stores. Necklace, $11,940; ireneneuwirth.com. Tailor, Susie Kourinian. Manicure, Tom Bachik. V Life: 68: Dress, $5,500; Vera Wang, NYC. Manicure, Saffron Goddard. 76: Rings ($3,300–$12,500), bracelets ($8,800–$16,800), and earrings ($24,000). HOLDING COURT 121: Top, $2,100; select Chanel stores. Necklace, $11,940; ireneneuwirth.com. 122–123: Dress, $10,900; Valentino stores. Bvlgari B.Zero XX Anniversary ring, $2,500; Bvlgari stores. 124: Dress, $1,195; similar styles at modaoperandi.com. 126–127: Slip dress, $880; Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. Necklaces, $7,080–$11,940; ireneneuwirth.com. Shoes, $725; (212) 582-3007. 130: Swimsuit, $250; moeva.com. Sandals, $590; gabrielahearst.com.…

IN EVERY MAY ISSUE we have the pleasure of bringing you a preview of the new Costume Institute show at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. Last year’s “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” was devoted to the inspiration of faith to Church and designers alike. It was the biggest show the Met had ever staged, and it drew a record-breaking crowd—due in no small part, I’ve always thought, to the way “Heavenly Bodies” let us all walk the arcane and mysterious corridors of the Vatican, revealing a powerful and secretive institution known before to only a very few. This year’s exhibition, “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” takes quite a different approach, even if some might argue that devoting a show to Catholicism’s gloriously gilded excess was already pretty camp…

To understand what makes the leather-goods brand Métier tick, one need only select a piece—say, the ladylike Private Eye day bag, dubbed the “8AM till late” by founder Melissa Morris, or the coquettish Perriand Mini—and have a look inside. The leather is supple but strong, and the slouchy silhouette conceals a structured yet remarkably lightweight interior replete with practical pockets. (The key is reinforcing the bag’s natural “pressure points,” Morris says.) First launched as L.O.N.B. in 2017, the London-based Métier specializes in bags that last. “Functionality has turned into such an unattractive word,” says Morris, “but focusing on use should always be a part of luxury design.” That ethos of enduring luxury feels especially apropos now, as the appetite for logo-laden arm-candy ephemerality continues to cede ground to the values…

“Without wanting to sound like Clint Eastwood, I feel that I’ve unfinished business to take care of,” restaurateur Keith McNally says, snug in a red leather booth. He’s not speaking of Balthazar, the McNally establishment where he’s currently seated, but the now-closed Pastis—a restaurant that evokes pangs of nostalgia for a pre–social media Manhattan and a Meatpacking District whose cobblestones had yet to be overwhelmed by commerce. Opened in 1999, Pastis enjoyed unwavering It-restaurant status that checked all the boxes. Food: perfect scallops à la Provence. Patrons: discerning creatives and the curious chic. Setting: tin-tiled ceilings and agespotted mirrors that bathed the space in yellow light (a cinematic mise-en-scène that owed to McNally’s history as a film director). But if Pastis were a movie, it would be one that ended…

WHEN I ENTER KIM KARDASHIAN WEST’S sprawling family home in Hidden Hills, California, on a warm afternoon in January, the first things I notice are boxes of Huggies sitting just inside the door. They are reminders, if I need one, that the Kardashian family tree is growing ever more baroque: Kim and Kanye West’s fourth child is due via surrogate in early May. Earlier I had to pass through layers of Pentagon-level security and hesitated at their forbidding front door, which looks like it might be lowered over a moat, before deciding to walk around the side and enter through the garage like a normal person. Parked out back is a fleet of matte silver Range Rovers that look like they could sprout wings and fly. Inside the garage, there’s…

IT’S A DEWY, NOT-QUITE-SPRING morning in March, and I’m lingering outside a soundstage on the Warner Bros. lot where RuPaul will be photographed for Vogue, waiting to behold him in full drag. This studio is where Judy Garland filmed A Star Is Born, and it is now where RuPaul is shooting AJ and the Queen, a forthcoming Netflix series he created with Michael Patrick King, the head writer and executive producer of Sex and the City. (Ru is a down-on-her-luck drag queen named Ruby, traveling cross-country with an eleven-year-old orphan named AJ, played by the young actor Izzy G.) I’ve already asked to observe the preshoot transformation—who on God’s green earth wouldn’t?—and received a no from Team Ru that was polite but ironclad, as though I’d requested the nuclear code:…

In the new Hanna, Amazon’s eight-part remake of the 2011 thriller, Esme Creed-Miles is the “girl no one saw coming.” It’s a description that just as easily applies to the British-born actress. With no formal training, Creed-Miles took a hands-on approach to preparing for her breakout role. “I did almost all my own stunts,” she reveals, recalling the monthslong regimen of martial arts and boxing that helped her get into character as a skilled assassin raised in the wilderness. That’s not to say that the nineteen-year-old doesn’t know her way around a set. As the daughter of actors Charlie Creed-Miles and Samantha Morton, she grew up experimenting with prosthetic noses in hair-and-makeup trailers, which might explain her open-minded approach to beauty. “I look at it like acting,” she elaborates, trying…

At Miu Miu’s most recent runway show, fashion spilled over into the front row; more specifically, onto the body of the label’s longtime ingenue, Elle Fanning. The actress wore a prim dress, whipped up by Miuccia Prada, that featured a spray of dandelions (a recurring floral motif in the designer’s oeuvre) in a lustrous corn silk–yellow taffeta—all of it inspired by a 1903 portrait of a flaxenhaired girl in yellow painted by the little-known Oxfordborn Margaret Fletcher. (A turn-of-the century feminist, Fletcher founded a quarterly journal dedicated to women and academia and dabbled in the fine arts.) So if you were struck by how perfectly matched Fanning was with her dress, it’s worth noting: It was, literally, made for her.…

“The idea was to have an energy and a spirit—to be bold, to be strong!” says Francesca Amfitheatrof, explaining the sensibility behind B Blossom, her first jewelry collection for Louis Vuitton. The blossom in question—something between a bud and a star—is the instantly recognizable symbol of the house. “Wherever you are in the world,” Amfitheatrof says, “when you see that flower, you know it is Vuitton.” Though the petals, rendered in subtle gold on sable, may have graced suitcases and Speedys for decades, Amfitheatrof—Vuitton’s new artistic director for jewelry and watches—is determined to unshackle the pattern from its historic underpinnings and treat it “like a tattoo or a marking,” she says. “It obviously comes from the luggage that was created in 1896, but nowadays, it’s like an Instagram avatar.” Amfitheatrof,…

For Youth America Grand Prix’s anniversary celebration, the nonprofit organization—which is commemorating 20 years of sustaining international ballet talent among young people—looked to its own ranks: in particular, American Ballet Theatre’s Melanie Hamrick, an alum of YAGP who happens to be the girlfriend of Mick Jagger and the mother of his youngest child. Would she be interested in choreographing a ballet set to Rolling Stones music? “Mick was super supportive,” says Hamrick. “He was like, ‘Yeah, go for it!’” The production, titled Porte Rouge, is not the first ballet inspired by the iconic band; Jagger had relished Christopher Bruce’s strutting 1994 ballet Rooster. But this production has become something of a family affair, with Jagger adding a score that links songs as disparate as “She’s a Rainbow”—“a very whimsical, sweet,…

In 2018, after spending five years building her Olive & June salon into a destination for Los Angeles’s discerning nail enthusiasts, and picking up some 200,000 social followers in the process, Sarah Gibson Tuttle did something radical. She stopped getting professional manicures. “I took the year off,” she confirms, becoming “user 1” in an attempt to understand why more women aren’t empowered to do their own nails. “There’s a huge opportunity,” she says of the at-home nail market, which inspired the new Olive U Studio Box ($48), a multitasking kit that aims to ameliorate common issues, from polish slipups to messy cuticle oils. Along with a sturdy foam file and buffer, a versatile straightedge nail clipper, a cuticle-serum click pen, and a gentle polish-removing sponge, there’s a makeup-inspired clean-up brush…

The American dream goes global in Xuan Juliana Wang’s spectacular debut, Home Remedies (Hogarth). Moving from lower Manhattan to mainland China, the dozen tales in the collection are peopled by immigrants in limbo and Asian millennials riding high on WeChat and rock ’n’ roll. One of the most enchanting, “Echo of the Moment,” is a retelling of the Cinderella story for the age of influencers. A size 0 Chinese-American student in Paris steals the clothing of a dead socialite and transforms herself into fashion-world royalty—until the items begin to wear out and the magic wears off. Wang, who was born in China and now lives in Los Angeles, has cherry-picked from disparate worlds and engineered a whole new, sublimely captivating one. Karen Russell’s latest, Orange World and Other Stories (Knopf),…

WHITNEY WOLFE Herd opens the double doors of her suite at the Oberoi Hotel in New Delhi in a hotel bathrobe, her face hidden beneath a sea foam–green beauty mask. “Do you use any dating apps?” she asks the trio of roomservice waiters as they roll a large trolley table into the room. Indeed they do. “Bumble has changed my life,” says a handsome 23-year-old named Shlok, who could be a spokesperson for the four-year-old dating-and-networking company. “We don’t have time to meet people.” Wolfe Herd’s eyes widen, delighted. And though it’s 1:30 a.m. on a December night, and she has just changed out of the floor-length beaded Indian gown that she wore to Priyanka Chopra and Nick Jonas’s Delhi wedding reception (the last of five days of Chopra-Jonas festivities),…

AS THE WEATHER WARMS, whose thoughts don’t turn to raw fish and beef? The fish: cubed and lightly marinating in a Peruvian bath of lime and chile. The beef: chilled, minced by hand, elevated by dabs of piquant flavors, dolloped on thin toasts or potato chips…. I’d assumed everyone shared my seasonal reverie. But everyone does not share my reverie. In fact, following a brief anecdotal survey, I now suspect that no one makes raw fish and meat dishes at home. Never mind that every street, in Manhattan at least, is so lined with poke spots that it can be hard to locate a hot-dog vendor. Never mind that we blithely order tartare on menus from New York to Chicago to San Francisco. Uncooked meat and fish is “restaurant food,”…