Indholdsfortegnelse for August 2019 i Vogue

BEAUTY “You can’t trust a dermatologist who says you have to come in for Botox every three months,” Tom Ford declares on an early summer morning in Los Angeles, referring to his staunchly held belief that it’s required only every eight. “I need to be able to move my face!” insists the designer, who has been interested in skin care since, as a teenager, he watched the legendary talk-show host Merv Griffin discuss his collagen injections on air. Ford has other strong feelings about the state of beauty. Bewilderment at these “pumped-up butt implants”; curiosity about how one can be aroused by breasts that are essentially “two bags of saline”; and a blunt meditation on hyper-manicured eyebrows: “Personally, I find it a little frightening,” the 57-year-old says, sipping a half-decaf,…

“It evokes the glamour and exuberance of what fashion can be,” says designer Prabal Gurung of a campy feathered dress worn by Naomi Campbell at Yves Saint Laurent’s fall 1987 couture show. That flight of fancy was the jumping-off point for this business-up-top, party-on-the-bottom jumpsuit, which was recently taken for a spin around Manhattan by Yara Shahidi. (The color is inspired by handwoven baskets crafted by Rana Tharu artisans in Gurung’s native Nepal.) “I absolutely love this look on Yara,” Gurung gushes. So do we…

BEAUTY I am not the target demographic for a tinted moisturizer. I cling to full-coverage foundation to mask hyperpigmentation and late nights; anything in which words such as natural figure prominently just feels too risky. The onetime outlier on my vanity was Laura Mercier’s ubiquitous tinted moisturizer, which I used regularly before committing to a steady diet of primer, foundation, and color correctors. The daily essential Meghan Markle has credited for her “dewy glow” has long been a makeup-artist favorite. “When I started, it was such a revolutionary product,” says Monika Blunder, the woman responsible for the lit-from-within complexions of Gemma Chan and Amanda Seyfried. A fan since its launch in 1996, Blunder recalls the original as the first sheer base to align with her skin-first aesthetic. “When things are…

THE ENGINE OF THE MAYBACH is silent, but the raffia fringe on Anastasia Soare’s Dries Van Noten bolero crunches as she turns into the lot at her West Hollywood office. The sedan’s headlights brighten the plaque of her parking spot: reserved: ceo, anastasia. When Soare, 60, moved to Los Angeles from Communist Romania 30 years ago, she could only afford to buy a $200 Ford station wagon with a leaky exhaust to shuttle her from her home in the Valley to Beverly Hills, where she worked as an aesthetician. “It was an enormous car,” she laughs, her accent throaty and warm. The used Mitsubishi Mirage that followed was no better. “Claudia was so embarrassed,” Soare recalls of her daughter’s horror during school drop-offs. Today, Anastasia Beverly Hills, the cosmetics empire…

FASHION Catherine Holstein likes to say that Khaite, the brand she launched in New York in 2016, isn’t actually a brand at all: “It’s a breath, a feeling, an emotion.” It’s also a raging success, and has been from the very start. Before she sold a single pair of jeans, with their elevating enamel button, or one lofty cashmere sweater, Holstein started an Instagram account, and its inspired mix of 1990s magazine editorials, old movie stills, and Cecily Brown and Marlene Dumas paintings soon had Net-a-Porter and MatchesFashion emailing her for appointments. Holstein wasn’t exactly an unknown quantity. Barneys picked up her Parsons School of Design junior thesis collection, and she went on to sell at Lane Crawford, Isetan, and 40 other global accounts before working in the design studios…

FASHION Around Memorial Day, 2011, I realized I had a bra problem. I was headed to London for the summer, and the mini-move entailed a radical wardrobe edit—I was adamant I’d pack only things that I genuinely loved and regularly wore, and nothing in my overstuffed lingerie drawer fit the bill. I had flimsy, candy-colored “sexy” bras that were impractical to wear. I had T-shirt bras with heavy molded cups that I wore but devoutly despised because they made me feel like I had a pair of dirigibles strapped to my chest. There were latter-day versions of the legendary WonderBra that seemed to set my breasts on a platter and offer them to the world as a gift. And then—my secret favorite—I had a comfy, tank-style Jockey sports bra that…

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Table of contents: 24: Earrings, $420 each pair; select Prada stores. Dress, $5,500; miumiu.com. Tailor, Christy Rilling Studio. Manicurist, Eri Ishizu. 28: On Krieger: Dress, $950; floravere.com. On Harris: Jacket ($2,900) and shorts ($980); gucci.com. Tailor, Bonnie Barton. Cover Look: 28: Dress and bodysuit; priced upon request; Dior stores. Hat, custommade upon request; ericjavits.com. Ear cuff, $4,846; anakhouri.com. Tailor, Olga Meverden. Manicurist, Betty Fuentes. V Life: 48: Dress and necklace, priced upon request; Dior stores. Manicurist, Dawn Sterling. 68: Sweater, $2,950; select Hermès stores. Manicurist, Dawn Sterling. THE PRESENT IS FEMALE 78–79: On Valletta: Simone Rocha brogues, $1,040; Simone Rocha, NYC. On Summers: Tod’s shoes, $595; tods.com. On Yai: Versace boots, $1,650; select Versace stores. On Ceretti: Etro boots, $1,660; Etro stores. On Wen: Jacket (price upon request) and skirt…

BEAUTY Jorja Smith is feeling a bit under the weather. “I thought I was going to be OK, so I apologize,” she laments to the crowd at this year’s Governors Ball Music Festival inside Randall’s Island Park. But a summer cold is no match for the celestial falsetto of the Grammy-nominated R&B star, who has taken to the stage in a burnt-orange leather crop top and metallic trousers, with coral-tinted eyelids to match. Smith unleashes her lush, velvety vocals, seamlessly crooning the songs on her debut album, Lost & Found (2018)—including “Blue Lights,” the politically charged single that launched her career. Forty-eight hours later and Smith is still in the throes of the bug, she says, intermittently humming along to Frank Ocean’s breezy “Pink + White,” which is playing in…

TALEN Aisling Franciosi doesn’t look like the type to keep a journal, an activity often associated with introverted adolescents. But sitting across from me at a downtown New York restaurant, sleek and composed in a white T-shirt and black pants, the 28-year-old Irish-Italian actor insists she is. Aisling (pronounced ASH-ling) keeps a work journal, a chronicle of her roles and auditions. “If I’m feeling anxious,” Franciosi tells me, “it’s good to look back and realize that this is just one of the troughs.” She likes to keep the journal unemotional, but there are exceptions. The day Britain woke up to the news that Brexit had passed, she got a call offering her the lead in Jennifer Kent’s The Nightingale (the director’s follow-up to the highly acclaimed Babadook). She granted that…

A female culture runs far and wide across the landscape of 21st-century fashion. It’s there at the top of the canopy, in major Parisian houses; it pervades the uprising of young, self-made independents and generations of established entrepreneurs: a multifaceted critical mass of women steadily working to change an industry for the better. What’s remarkable is the way they talk about feeling, their agile ability to intuit the time we live in, and their quiet but steady turning of the fashion world toward the overthrow of bad and old institutional behaviors. I was working at my first job in New York when Donna Karan launched Seven Easy Pieces, her inspirationally efficient wardrobe that heralded the rise of the ’80s power woman and the first wave of consciously feminist fashion. Nothing…