Indholdsfortegnelse for August 2021 i Vogue

I am still somewhat haunted by the memory of my first “statement” jacket: the school blazer I wore as a child growing up in ’90s London. “You look like a little gray mouse,” said my mother, reaching to pinch my cheeks as I emerged, ready for my first day of seventh grade, dressed in a knife-pleated gray skirt and matching V-neck sweater. I shrugged on the imposing gray jacket over my scrawny shoulders as if it were a giant cinder block—Mum had insisted on buying it with “room left to grow.” The expression on my face did, in fact, read like a small frightened animal’s. Having to wear a school uniform was bad enough, but somehow the awkward, too-big proportions set off a spiral of anxious thoughts. What I didn’t…

Théo de Gueltzl This month, along with shooting the model Anok Yai in some of the season’s wildest (but most wearable) accessories (“The New Bags,” page 72), de Gueltzl captured Gabriela Hearst, Chloé’s new creative director (“This Woman’s Work,” page 54). “We shared a lovely morning, very early, to catch the first light,” says the photographer, who is based in Paris. “We met around this weeping willow on the bank of the Seine.” They connected over their love for the environment, which plays a major role in both Hearst’s design sensibility and a long-simmering project of de Gueltzl’s, examining “the relationships between humans and nature in ancient cultures and indigenous communities.” The day, de Gueltzl says, “was a great memory.” Jonathan Van Meter Where Van Meter’s prior profiles of Dr.…

Ghosts (Knopf), by Dolly Alderton The action in Ghosts, an astonishingly assured debut novel, takes place after Nina George Dean turns 32. She’s a writer with a London flat that she adores, a new book in the works, two well-meaning parents, and a circle of close friends that includes an ex with whom she’s unproblematically close. When Nina meets the doting and superhero-handsome Max, she can’t believe her luck. But her house of cards soon starts to cave: Her dad’s health takes a turn; the proposal for her next book isn’t coming together; and after several blissful months, she’s getting radio silence from Max. Deftly observed and deeply funny, Ghosts considers, with what might well be described as haunting precision, where we find—and how we hold on to—love.—MARLEY MARIUS Agatha…

After a year when evening dress was replaced by the nap dress, aren’t we all desperate to be glamorous again? During the five years that I covered events for Vogue from my post on the editorial staff, I dressed up in black tie three times a week. Sometimes I had time to go home or get my hair blown out, but often I simply dragged my borrowed sequins or satin to the office in a garment bag—along with a tote stuffed with Manolo BB pumps, a pair of earrings, and my makeup bag—and under the harsh lighting of the Condé Nast bathroom scraped my hair back into a tight bun, slicked it with pomade to tame the flyaways, and swiped on an additional coat of mascara. Like most routines, it…

Is it possible to will ourselves into thinking optimistically with a little help from eye shadow? From finely etched fluoro flicks at Christian Dior to thick wings in striking pinks and blues at Versace, the fall runways—and TikTok, that other arbiter of style—seem to suggest yes. “Last season it was all smoky eyes and black liner,” reveals makeup artist Fara Homidi, noting the somber state of makeup as the pandemic raged on. Now, as we edge closer to a postpandemic future, “everyone is asking for color,” she continues—and not subtle washes and transparent finishes but what Homidi calls “impact makeup,” like the layering effort of bright canary creams and powder pigments she applied to Hailey Bieber’s clean skin and bare lashes to telegraph a certain sunniness. “It’s definitely a mood,”…

If you have sought out less-populated pastures over the past year, then you are likely familiar with All That the Rain Promises. The 30-year-old field guide to Western mushrooms (including recipes for food and hair dye) doesn’t have Didion’s prose or the urgency of a Michael Lewis exposé; but for a certain subsection of eco-curious hipster, it has become the housewarming gift for friends who have traded in city life for country living. Mushrooms—which are not plants or animals but fungi that constitute their own kingdom, with more than 10,000 different species—are having their cultural moment, and not just psychedelic varieties. Locally sourced morels and chanterelles are turning up on fine-dining menus; in March, Hermès announced that it would release an eco-friendly version of its classic Victoria travel bag made…

ON A SUNNY WINTER AFTERNOON IN Paris, Gabriela Hearst, the new creative director of Chloé, buzzes around the house’s atelier in the 8th arrondissement. She’s about to present her first Chloé collection with an atmospheric video shot at night in pandemic-empty Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and models are parading into a room lined with racks of clothes while assistants in masks put the finishing touches on each look: There’s a flowy marbleized red-and-green silk crepe dress, a chunky knit ankle-length dress, a long coat of scalloped brown-leather scales that looks, in the best way, like Joni Mitchell might have worn it in 1971. Every so often, someone asks Hearst a question, and she nods and offers a “Oui, merci” in slightly Spanish-accented French. “My French is ‘Oui, merci,’” Hearst says, a bit apologetically,…

My sense of adventure comes from the place I grew up,” says Omar Sy, the star of Lupin—the Netflix series that has become an international phenomenon—and easily the most beloved actor in France. (Three times Sy has been voted France’s favorite person, on an open ballot.) The place he’s talking about is Trappes, one of the infamous banlieues about 20 miles west of Paris, which, collectively, occupy a complicated place in the French national imagination. Banlieues are suburbs outside major cities filled with housing projects that were cheaply constructed for immigrant workers during France’s postwar labor shortage. As jobs dried up in the 1980s and ’90s, austerity settled in and xenophobia flared, giving the banlieues a forbidding reputation, either to be pitied or shunned. “In Europe, city centers are for…

Table of contents: 12: Dress, price upon request; louisvuitton.com. Cover look: 12: Tailor, Leah Huntsinger. Editor’s letter: 14: Top right photo: Leather belted dress, $12,395; (702) 675-9998. Bottom right photo: Coat, price upon request; louisvuitton.com. Dolce & Gabbana cap, $225; dolcegabbana.com. The Frye Company boots, $328; thefryecompany.com. Tailor, Nina Hannemann. THE DOCTOR IS IN 46–47: In this story: Tailor, Leah Huntsinger. THIS WOMAN’S WORK 55: Leather coat ($16,359) and boots ($1,595); chloe.com. 56–57: Dress ($4,995) and slides ($695). Dress at (704) 366-0388. Slides at nordstrom.com. 59:Dress ($1,950) and flat mules ($725); chloe.com. 60: Leather dress ($6,895) and belt ($380); chloe.com. 61:Puffer-poncho, $3,895; chloe.com. ON THEIR GAMES 62–63: Bralette, $38; freepeople.com. Commando bikini, $28; wearcommando.com. Tailor, Allison Cohen. 64–65: Coat, shirt, tie, and pants, priced upon request; louisvuitton.com. Tailor, Bonnie Lewis.…

Gucci bag, $2,400 How did this elegant accessory come to see spots? Simple: Creative director Alessandro Michele had them printed on the maison’s classic monogram Jackie bag—a simple satchel with a horse bit–like closure strap, named after Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis—in a glorious red hue, and while he was at it, he added a couple of sporty stripes to further liven things up. Take her with you no matter where you’re headed: She’ll be sure to attract all the right kind of attention.…