Indholdsfortegnelse for December 2022 i Vogue

Guido Palau is beholden to the scroll. “I follow a lot of colorists from Japan, China, and Korea,” the legendary hairstylist says, noting a recent affinity for a specific hair dye technique that has long been popular in Asia and that is beginning to proliferate in the U.S. “It’s a kind of color conceptualizing that feels computerized almost,” says Palau, who has built a beauty hypothesis around the pervasive influence of technology. After years of clinging to the idea of “realness”—no-makeup makeup, come-as-you-are hair—we are now verging on the “hyperreal,” he says, the result of our collective consumption of archivable inspo photos and avatar construction through the glitchy pixels of our smartphones. “There is a sci-fi anime feeling to it for sure,” Lena Ott says of the specific quality Palau…

Three years after Bruno Frisoni launched his eponymous shoe label in 1999—a pump composed of denim scraps sourced from a vintage jacket was an early creation—he was asked to revive Roger Vivier, the storied French house that remains indelible thanks to a square-buckled cameo on Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour. By the time Frisoni showed his final Vivier collection in 2018—he’d shuttered his own line in 2011—he had cemented his reputation as a fantastical designer adept at using everything from feathers, jewels, and embroidery with a reckless, dreamy abandon. Not long after departing Vivier, though, Frisoni found that he simply couldn’t resist sketching once again. That turned into manipulating fabrics to see how they would look on a shoe, which led to making some samples, which led to his…

Jenna Gribbon’s life as a figurative painter made a sharp turn in 2017, when she was 38. “It took me so long to understand myself and my sexuality,” she tells me, “and that could be attributed in large part to the lack of images of women in relationships with each other. There’s a bit more history of gay men depicting and depicted in romantic situations, but I’d seen so few examples when I was growing up of queer identity among women. I wanted to make work that was impactful, but also more direct and more pleasurable,” she says. Jenna had been married to and divorced from a man, Matthew Gribbon, and she was then living with her partner, the novelist Julian Tepper, and their son, Silas. (Jenna and Julian were…

Families—of choice, fate, or circumstance—are sources of power in a suite of fascinating year-end films. Noah Baumbach’s White Noise, a strikingly faithful adaptation of Don DeLillo’s 1985 novel about consumerism, post-industrial paranoia, and fear of death, is the biggest and highest-minded swing of the season. Adam Driver plays Jack Gladney, a professor at a fictional liberal arts college, and he’s a marvel of comic energy, as personable as he is hilariously puffed-up. Greta Gerwig is his genial wife, Babette, with a perm and a secret pill habit, and their four kids form a chorus of pop-cultural erudition. When a chemical spill unleashes an Airborne Toxic Event on their small college town, the family and seemingly everyone around them piles into their station wagons to escape it. A boisterous vision of…

On a disquietingly hot and windy October day at the outer edges of the San Fernando Valley, Jennifer Lopez—who has never been accused of lacking ambition—is saving the world. Not this world, though it surely also needs saving, but an imagined dystopia some century ahead in which robots, according to their frustrating custom, threaten the human race. “To me, it’s a love story,” says Lopez, and she laughs. She laughs because of course she would see it thus, because love is her big project in this world, her messy, public, decades-long, sometimes glamorous, sometimes treacherous, often thwarted project, the lens that when it comes down over her eyes can’t help but turn everything as pink as the sixcarat diamond with which Ben Affleck proposed to her the first time, in…

If you were spitballing ideas for a show that would make you the toast of Broadway, the story of a fat, Black, queer musical theater writer struggling to write a musical about a fat, Black, queer musical theater writer struggling to, etc., might not be at the top of your list. But when Michael R. Jackson’s dazzling A Strange Loop won best musical at the Tony Awards last June, it confirmed that there is a place—an appetite, even—for offbeat, challenging work on Broadway. Now, in the footsteps of A Strange Loop and such other less-than-obvious Tony winners as Fun Home and The Band’s Visit, comes a new contender, fresh from a soldout off-Broadway run at the Atlantic Theater: Kimberly Akimbo. David Lindsay-Abaire and Jeanine Tesori’s gorgeous, tragicomic chamber musical stars…

Everything that I’ve learned about covering politics, I’ve learned from covering losing candidates. When I was a tabloid reporter for the New York Daily News, there was Christine Quinn, the redheaded, Irish American, lesbian Speaker of the New York City Council, with a booming voice and a hearty laugh, who at one point was widely assumed to be the mayor-in-waiting of New York. (She wasn’t.) I had recently turned 30 and the assignment made me feel like I was at the center of the universe. After 12 years, Mike Bloomberg was leaving office and the entire city was gripped by the question of what would come next. Right after graduating from a small liberal arts college outside Philadelphia, I’d moved to a New York so defined by the billionaire mayor, and…

It might be assumed that a model’s runway makeup prep begins with some concealer or foundation—maybe a fluff of the powder brush. Not so: “Skin today has to be flawless,” makeup artist Michaela Bosch proclaimed backstage at Christopher John Rogers’s resort show, where staggered swipes of statement lipstick in hot pink, deep aubergine, and a bright cerise punctuated exaggerated silhouettes. Bosch was busy giving Nepalese model Varsha Thapa a facial massage with MAC’s Hyper Real Serumizer, a new multitasking fluid that officially launches in January. While no one would confuse the behind-the-scenes chaos at Fashion Week for a spa, the comparison was there for the making: Among even the most color-forward makeup brands, there’s a new emphasis that it’s what’s underneath that counts. After lockdown caused a spike in skin…

I’ve never thought of myself as much of a carrot farmer. (As a committed city dweller, I never much considered the vegetable’s provenance.) Yet, on a late September afternoon, I found myself with hands submerged in crumbly dirt as a farmer named Jax examined my grip. “Now gently pull,” he counseled. A quick tug revealed a stubby orange Atlas. I was foraging at Wildflower Farms, a new Auberge resort nestled at the foothills of the Catskill Mountains, where you can also rock-climb on nearby boulders, bake with pansy petals and other edible botanicals, release your children to fend for themselves in the nature playground while you meander the miles of hiking trails that snake along the Hudson River, or partake in seasonally themed treatments at the sleek spa. “The core…

Brad Pitt has not read the beauty tutorial memo. We’re 25 minutes into my interview with the newly minted skin care brand founder at Château Miraval, the sprawling property and vineyard in the South of France that Pitt bought with Angelina Jolie in 2008, and after a few quick-fire exchanges we arrive at the inevitable question: “What’s your regimen?” I ask, with a certain amount of trepidation. “Can we have a product demonstration?” Pitt balks, smiling. “I’m not doing that!” “Maybe just talk about how your routine has evolved, then? Just don’t make it too QVC,” I suggest to the Academy Award–winning actor and producer, hoping he might warm to the idea of applying face creams while being filmed. “I wouldn’t know how to do that, unless it was a…

To paraphrase Jane Austen, one the greatest observers of the British male, it is a truth universally acknowledged that the species would rather subsist on their own entrails before tending to matters of self-care. I should know; I have been married to one such shining example for more than 25 years. The manchild I live with in otherwise conjugal bliss has never, to my knowledge, set foot in a gym or made a doctor’s appointment unbidden; we haven’t eaten the same food for years because gastronomy to him equals something lavishly fried and intensely caloric. In fact, the only thing he is rigorously fastidious about is stockpiling (in case of possible Armageddon) his beloved Kronenbourg beers and peanut M&M’s, both of which he consumes daily. So when I breezily suggest…

One evening in July 2021, 22-year-old Jennifer Burns—“Jenna” to her friends and family—was sitting in a Walmart parking lot in Clemson, South Carolina, when a flurry of email notifications appeared on her phone. Jenna, a mechanical engineering undergraduate at the city’s university who’d been shopping for a simple dinner with her roommate, remembers thinking the timing was “weird”—it was after work hours after all. Then she noticed the source: a DNA site she’d subscribed to several years earlier. “A new DNA relative has sent you a message,” one notification read. “At that point I’m kind of freaking out,” she remembers. It could only mean one thing. Jenna was born Maria Mashinka in the grim Russian industrial city of Nizhniy Novgorod and given up for adoption as an infant. When Jenna’s…