Indholdsfortegnelse for Winter 2023 i Vogue

THERE’S A MOMENT OF SERENDIPITY in our cover story this month, which is on the remarkable actor Florence Pugh. When she arrives at a weaving studio in Brooklyn for an hour of loom work and conversation with Vogue’s Chloe Schama, they find a pair of teenage girls sharing the space. Of course Florence, being who she is—which is unfailingly genuine and gregarious—immediately engages the girls in talk. I saw this quality myself when Florence and I recently attended the theater together in London’s West End; audience members were drawn to her like a magnet (young women especially) and she was lovely to each and every one. Much is being made of the end of the movie star—it seems Hollywood is not minting them the way it used to. But Florence…

PROUNIS While other college students spent their summers goofing off, Jean Prounis, 29, was studying chain making, granulation, and bezel making. “I just fell in love with it,” she says, smiling. “I found it a very meditative process.” For the New York–based Prounis, the muse can alight in strange places: The curved legs of a Greek funerary bench encountered in a museum in Pella, for example, inspired a pair of exquisite earrings of rock crystal and lapis—rendered, like all her work, in 22-karat gold—among her latest creations. (Grace Wales Bonner and Kaia Gerber are fans.) The Roz ring, this author’s favorite, offers a single stone sunk in a hammered frame. “Everything is made with purpose, to be worn with purpose,” Prounis declares. Then again, she admits, “I do like to…

On the corner of 51st and Seventh Avenue in Manhattan, the aroma of charcoal-burnished lamb hangs enticingly in the winter air above Midtown’s halal carts. Alas, I can’t stop for a snack. I have a reservation down the block at Le Bernardin, that temple of pristine French seafood helmed by Eric Ripert. Tonight, however, I’m not going for the delicate skate wing or sea trout. Ripert is the first chef in New York City to be cooking with Nature’s Fynd, which is not seafood at all, but a protein fermented from an extremophilic fungal microbe (Fusarium strain flavolapis or “yellow stone,” nicknamed Fy) discovered by NASA-funded scientists in an acidic hot spring in Yellowstone National Park. “I really think it’s fantastic,” says chef Ripert, as my first course arrives—a tender…

On a drizzly, gray October morning, I arrive at a nondescript address in a northeast London suburb where, I’ve been told, Caroline Polachek is shooting the cover for her new album. Given the musician’s knack for world building—the delicately arranged layer cake of Disney backdrops and ’90s Steven Meisel Versace campaigns that informed the visuals for her 2019 record, Pang, for example—I expect to arrive at a studio filled with extravagant sets and esoteric props. Instead, I find myself at an outdoor train museum, where Polachek is crouched inside an old subway carriage crawling through a pile of sand. She’s wearing a dress covered in coffee stains (intentionally, it’s worth noting), a lick of kohl across her eyelids, and she’s surrounded by extras playing oblivious commuters. “I wanted the cover…

Freshly painted a vivid shade of coral, designer Coco Brandolini d’Adda’s atelier is a tiny jewel box of a space tucked away on the top floor of a Via Montenapoleone address in Milan. Hidden from the street, it’s accessible only through an elegant, dark entryway, with one side opening to the back entrance of a baroque church and the other leading up to her charming and bohemian nest. Brandolini d’Adda, 43—the daughter of Georgina Brandolini d’Adda, a longstanding habituée of Valentino Garavani’s inner circle—honed her racé sense of style working for the likes of Oscar de la Renta, Alberta Ferretti, Tomas Maier, and, most recently, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana at their couture line, Alta Moda. Now she’s going solo, launching a new line of high-end, limited-quantity ready-to-wear with the…

Daniel Lee is sitting in a penthouse suite at Claridge’s in an army green sweater, sporty black pants, and Nikes. It is mid-November, and beyond the French doors behind him, a sweeping view of drizzly London is visible; Big Ben stands in the distance. The night before, Lee was at Chiltern Firehouse, reconnecting with local fashion reporters and at least one of his former professors from Central Saint Martins, and his throat is a bit sore. “It was nice to do it in that kind of environment,” he says. “You know, when I’m not exhausted from a collection.” Lee, who is 37, was named chief creative officer of Burberry last September, just days after Riccardo Tisci’s final show for the British heritage brand. It’s a homecoming for the designer—his creative…

My preparations for each Lunar New Year begin in the bathroom. On Lunar New Year’s Eve, I turn on the hot water and let the air fill with steam. With my bare toes curled against the chilly floor, I scissor off a lock of hair, clip my nails, and discard these symbolic crumbs of bad luck into the trash. Then I get in the shower, where I suds and scour and scrub down every inch of skin. “You have to wash off all of the bad luck from the year before.” This was my mother’s imperative, as if bad fortune could accumulate into a grungy layer over the course of the year. As if I had one chance—a crucial opening on a February night—in which it would be possible to…

At 21, Emma Chamberlain is as “new” Hollywood as they come. For the uninitiated, the digital creator dropped out of her Bay Area high school in 2017 and moved to Los Angeles alone, at 17, to pursue YouTube stardom. She quickly found a 3 million–strong following that propelled her to sign with UTA, take home numerous Streamy Awards (arguably the Oscars of online creation), and become a fixture of Paris Fashion Week. Chamberlain isn’t just on YouTube; many people credit her with creating the ubiquitous editing style that now pervades the platform—quick cuts, text-heavy screens, carefully selected pauses—and that keeps viewers tuned in to the mundanities of her day. The marketing opportunities soon followed, from Chamberlain Coffee, with its Zoomer-friendly vanilla and matcha blends, to endorsement deals with brands including…

In the private basement lounge of Henry Jacques’s recently opened Avenue Montaigne fragrance flagship situated across from the Pont de l’Alma in Paris, Rafael Nadal is being uncharacteristically expressive—a rarity for the often tight-lipped tennis legend. Despite 20 years on the sport’s biggest stages, Nadal has maintained a near-absolute privacy around his personal life, especially his relationship with his wife, María Francisca Perelló. “One of the most important things—and what I consider to be one of my greatest successes—is that María and I have been able to have a really normal life,” says Nadal. The couple met as teenagers in Manacor, Mallorca, and were together for 14 years before they wed in 2019; their first child, a baby boy also named Rafael, arrived last October. “We’re moving to the next…

Bret Easton Ellis’s first novel, Less Than Zero, published in 1985, is hard to shake—a drifting, menacing story about Los Angeles private school kids who go to parties, do drugs, have sex, and try to feel something about any of it. The Shards (Knopf), Ellis’s hypnotic, prodigious, and unsettling new novel—his first in 13 years—is a time machine back to that early ’80s milieu. It stars none other than Ellis himself, a prep school senior writing a book called Less Than Zero and surrounded by a pack of rich, beautiful friends who are themselves shadowed by a serial killer nicknamed The Trawler. Ellis holds nothing back through these 600 pages of baroque violence, startling eroticism, and a relentless cataloging of mood-specific song and movie titles. His gothic predilections are not…

“Does anyone else want one?” Florence Pugh calls out from behind the kitchen island where she has been mixing martinis. She is dressed a little absurdly, and very formally, for a kitchen, in a clinging vermilion Alexander McQueen dress and heels—an ensemble she has put on for the sake of a Vogue video crew that is having her demonstrate some of her favorite recipes: a vodka martini with a twist in a chilled glass and a cherry tomato crostini with lots of garlic and a bit of chopped chile pepper. She has made sure to cut up the baguette before she gets started on the drinks (not her preferred sequencing) so that the slices have a chance to toast in the oven. The flat of the carving knife descends on…