Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2023 i Vogue

ONE HEARS THE PHRASE passion project much too much—and yet I can’t think of a better way to describe Maestro, Bradley Cooper’s magnificent and meticulous new movie that depicts the life, and the very complex marriage, of the American composer Leonard Bernstein. His wife was the actor Felicia Montealegre, and she’s played by our cover star this month, Carey Mulligan—and more on Carey in a moment. If you’re lucky enough to be friends with Bradley, you know how hard he works. He is—and I say this with admiration—a bit obsessive, and never more so than he was with Maestro. The level of care and attention he devoted to every frame, every shot, every set and costume, even to the projecting equipment in Venice, where the film had its triumphant festival…

Some designers cling strictly to the calendar, releasing their collections in rigid sequence, but others have imaginations that cannot be tied down to a particular season. For Nadège Vanhée, the artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear at Hermès, this desire to break free, to throw out the old rules, has resulted in an exquisite, extremely limited edition (a mere 16 looks!) that she refers to as sleeping beauties—their formal name is Collection Hors-Série, Women’s 2023 Savoir-Faire Collection. Each of these creations, from the embroidered ivory swing coat to the silk jacquard Spencer jacket to the micromini woven with ribbons, is made from fabrics left over from previous collections. You might call it deadstock, but of course the end of a bolt of Hermès cashmere is not exactly a prosaic remnant; a…

In the late summer of 2021, Christopher Rothko—son of Mark Rothko, the celebrated New York School painter—found himself driving up and down the coast of California. The psychologist turned guardian (along with his sister, Kate Rothko Prizel) of his father’s legacy had been working to bring together many of his lesser-seen paintings for a large-scale exhibition. Emails had been sent; requests had been registered. But for some of those appeals, there had been little traction—until Rothko paid a visit. “People were so hungry for direct contact. Eleven paintings that had been nominally deemed a possibility were promised to the exhibition at the end of my trip,” he says. This fall, the fruits of those efforts, as well as those of his co-curator Suzanne Pagé, can be seen at the Fondation…

There’s an indelible scene in the film Shame, in which Carey Mulligan, in one of her early breakout roles, performs a torchy rendition of “New York, New York.” Director Steve McQueen frames Mulligan in a tight close-up, so we can see the exhaustion in her troubled character’s eyes as she sings those famous, triumphal lines: “Start spreading the news….” Nothing happens in this scene. And everything happens as Mulligan sings, because what we’re witnessing is a person fighting to keep the spark of herself alive. This, kids, is acting. Mulligan performs the same magic trick in the new movie Maestro. Only this time, she does it just by listening. Playing Felicia Montealegre, wife of legendary conductor and composer Leonard Bernstein, Mulligan’s character is not, cannot ever be, the star of…

An empty arena is an eerie place. I feel this distinctly on a Tuesday in early August as I hasten across an enormous parking lot to the dark entrance of the Oakland Arena, a 19,200-seat venue just east of the San Francisco Bay. Near the checkpoint where I wait, a metal detector blinks and beeps indiscriminately. I am here to meet Alicia Keys, who later that day will play the penultimate set in her five-week-long, 22-city Keys to the Summer Tour, concluding at the Kia Forum in Inglewood, California, the following evening. But hours before she strides onstage to an incantatory arrangement of “Fallin’” (the chart-topping lead single from her debut album, Songs in A Minor, now a shocking 22 years old), wearing a coruscating green bodysuit and matching coat…

Table of Contents: 22: On Zahara: Briony Raymond hoops; brionyraymond.com. Manicurist: Yuko Tsuchihashi. Tailors: Carol Ai and Egle Paulaus. Cover Look: 22: Dress; select Louis Vuitton boutiques. Brooch; tiffany.com for information. Manicurist: Ama Quashie. Tailor: Della George. Editor’s Letter: 28: Left photo: Dress; select Louis Vuitton boutiques. Manicurist: Ama Quashie. Tailor: Della George. Contributors: 34: Top right photo: Maison Me dress; maisonette.com. Bottom right photo: Max Mara dress; us.maxmara.com. Bottom left photo: On Keys: Proenza Schouler dress and boots; proenzaschouler.com. Jennifer Fisher earrings; jenniferfisherjewelry.com. On Moon: Alaïa jacket and pants; maison-alaia.com. Timberland boots; timberland.com. Jennifer Fisher earring; jenniferfisherjewelry.com. Hair, Nai’vasha; makeup for Alicia Keys, Ayako Yoshimura; makeup for Maleah Joi Moon, Kuma. Manicurist: Eri Handa. Tailor: Cha Cha Zutic. Out of the Past: 54: Jacket and skirt; hermes.com for information.…

Dior bag This bag has your name on it—or, it could: Think of the tidy band encircling the Dior Panier Chapeau bag as a blank canvas for the monogram of your choosing. While the silhouette here recalls the maison’s much-toted-around Book Tote, it splays out in a manner not unlike the brim of a chapeau, with a pattern that evokes a historic block print but is actually far more luxurious, with intricate embroidery featuring a kaleidoscope of wondrous colors. It’s a statement accessory, for sure—but one that lets you decide what you want it to say.…

Oh the joys of the compact essay! Set against concerns over the fragmentation of media—and the fetishization of “long-form”—it’s a tonic to recall just how potent a short read can be. Hilary Mantel, the beloved author of the Wolf Hall trilogy, was for decades before her death last year a journalist as well as a novelist. The works collected in A Memoir of My Former Self (Holt) are sharp and shapely, models of economy and density of thought. They also cover an expansive terrain. Here is the story of her time in Saudi Arabia, and her struggles with a culture she deemed both rich and claustrophobic; her lifelong compulsion to write; her endometriosis—which becomes a moving meditation on women’s pain. If you are a Mantel completist or if you have…

AMONG DOWNTOWN New York art aficionados, 57 Great Jones Street is something of a sacred site. Andy Warhol bought the two-story building in 1970, famously renting the second floor to his friend Jean-Michel Basquiat a decade later, shortly after they met. And now, with the façade almost completely covered in graffiti, it seems as if every street artist within a 30-mile radius has paid homage. “Perhaps we can do something with all the art,” says Angelina Jolie, peering out from under her enormous umbrella. It’s a drizzly Sunday morning in mid-July, and she’s fresh off the plane from Italy. Six months ago, she and her eldest daughter, Zahara, 18, a student at Spelman College in Atlanta, stumbled upon this place while hunting for downtown retail spaces. The moment they walked…

I HAVE LONG BEEN OF the belief that a low, sultry eyelid is a thing of beauty. Lauren Bacall made a career on it! Eyes down, then flicked up, two arrows through Humphrey Bogart’s heart. You know how to whistle, don’t you? Zendaya too. These days you can find the white-hot starlet in any number of high fashion advertisements, eyes elegantly lowered to half-mast, a modern master of the “smize”—a Tyra Banks–credited invention from America’s Next Top Model, employed as shorthand to entreat the aspiring Christys and Naomis and Kates to “smile with their eyes” in a sort of purposeful, unwrinkled microsquint, transforming an image from average to alluring. Eyes, we’ve so often been told, are the windows to the soul, the key to flirtation, to connection, to engaging seriously…

Miranda Brooks and Bastien Halard had their work cut out for them when, in 2017, the married couple acquired a 17th-century farmhouse in Gloucestershire, England. The interiors were damp and poky; outside, untouched fields rolled on for miles. “We didn’t have a single flower,” recalls Brooks (who has designed some of New York’s most beautiful gardens). The scenery was especially barren right outside the kitchen window, where the family members (including daughters Apollonie and Violette Grey) spend much of their time and Halard has positioned a couch for midday naps. So what’s a landscape architect to do? Upholster furniture in the garden, years away from blooming, with brilliant red roses—and design the fabric herself. Catswood, a line of textiles for outdoor living named after the family’s historic home, is not…