Indholdsfortegnelse for December 2023 i Vogue

On a cool, early fall day in Los Angeles, the actor Sarah Paulson, a person of palpable charm and sincerity, pauses over lunch to consider how she came to embody a series of unlikable, and occasionally truly awful, women. (Her CV includes roles like 12 Years a Slave’s harrowing Mistress Epps, Linda Tripp, and One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest’s Nurse Ratched.) “I try not to judge them,” she says finally. “I try not to think about how they’re going to be perceived, because I don’t think many people are thinking about how they’re coming across in any given moment. People are, myself included, reactive and reacting to the environment around them.” If this sounds pretty elementary, you are probably not a Hollywood star, with all of the correlating concerns…

I want to be a Moonlit Winter! It makes me think of crunchy snowdrifts and hot toddies and burnished rosy cheeks and cherry red lips. Alas, this is not to be. Jeannie Stith, the founder and CEO of Color Guru, tells me that I am only half right—due to unsuspected greenish tints in my eyes and a yellow undertone lurking in my otherwise ghostly face, I am actually a Vivid Winter. Which means that, in addition to my usual funereal-gray-and-black palette, I can allegedly add chartreuse, shamrock green, and one specific shade of lemon yellow to my repertoire. This comes as quite a shock to me, since a lifetime of shopping has perhaps once or twice found me attempting to don chartreuse or shamrock and then running screaming back to…

Spanning fashion, music, painting, sculpture, dance, and photography, this season’s most elegant nonfiction is perfectly primed for holiday gifting. While Phillip Ziegler’s Queen Elizabeth II: A Photographic Portrait (Thames & Hudson) gathers more than 200 sumptuous studies of the late British monarch, supermodel Linda Evangelista’s endlessly inventive collaborations with Steven Meisel make up the aptly titled Linda Evangelista Photographed by Steven Meisel (Phaidon), and Vanity Fair: Oscar Night Sessions (Abrams), by Mark Seliger, extends a privileged glimpse inside the world’s most glamorous after-party. Twenty-four years after her death, CBK: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy (Abrams), by Sunita Kumar Nair, examines Bessette Kennedy’s legacy as a fashion icon; the darkly compelling vision of a singular fashion photographer animates Deborah Turbeville: Photocollage (Thames & Hudson) by Nathalie Herschdorfer; Simone Leigh (DelMonico Books/Institute of Contemporary…

“Fashion insists on galloping along, transient and ever mutating, while art, and I as an artist, pursue longevity.”—WANGECHI MUTU “There’s something really magical about a person getting dressed and being able to convey: This is the mood I’m in, this is how I want to be seen. To me, that’s art.”—NA KIM “What I like about art and fashion together is that they both aspire to beauty, and sometimes seek to provoke. I also believe that both thrive on the element of surprise.”—HADI FALAPISHI…

Table of Contents: 34: Jumpsuit; wrangler.com. Manicurist: Tom Bachik. Tailor: Kyle Kasabuske and Jen Hebner at Carol Ai Studio. Cover Look: 42: Dress; +33 155-351-600 for information. Earrings; ireneneuwirth.com. Manicurist: Dawn Sterling. Tailor: Cha Cha Zutic. Contributors: 64: Top left photo: dress; select Louis Vuitton boutiques. Goodbye, Vogue House!: 70: Bottom right photo: On Quenby: jacket, skirt, and apple accessory; Maison Schiaparelli, 21 Place Vendôme 75001 Paris. On Norman: dress; (800) 929-DIOR for information. On Newman: jacket and miniskirt; Maison Schiaparelli, 21 Place Vendôme 75001 Paris. On Ruea: dress and earring; (800) 929-DIOR for information. On Daing: corset and dress; fendi.com for information. 74: Top left photo: On Fawole: jacket, skirt, and boots; stellamccartney.com. Top right photo: On Claire: top and skirt; emiliawickstead.com. Shirt from With Nothing Underneath; with nothingunderneath.com.…

Na Kim Artist Na Kim’s usual subject is a female nude, head and shoulders only, so it was a bit of a departure for her to be asked to respond directly to a fashion house, in this case Bode, for “When Art Met Fashion” (page 156). But, as she points out, “fashion has been used throughout art history as a tool to convey mood, time, and place, especially within portraits to tell the story about who the subject is.” Kim, who is also the art director for The Paris Review and Farrar, Straus and Giroux books, is currently having her debut solo show at White Columns gallery in Manhattan.—DODIE KAZANJIAN Elizabeth Colomba For Elizabeth Colomba, the French painter of Martinican heritage, “a serendipitous pairing with Christopher John Rogers felt destined.”…

The last time I wore ribbons in my hair, I was also wearing a leotard and tights: As a kid at the School of American Ballet, I would often decorate my slicked-back bun with elaborate satin bows. They matched the ribbons I crisscrossed along my ankles, binding my pointe shoes to my feet, and the stretchy belts my classmates and I wrapped around our waists. My tendus may have been insufficiently turned out—but when I pinned on my favorite pale blue ribbons, at least I could be confident that the back of my head looked pretty. Now in my 30s, I’ve largely relegated ribbons to the realm of little-girlhood. But clearly, it’s time to reevaluate: They dominated the runways this year, from Sandy Liang’s tidy pastels and floor-skimming streamers to…

On an evening in late August, just as Donald Trump is getting booked on 13 felony charges at the Fulton County Jail in Atlanta, a sherbet sunset in the western sky casts Santa Monica Boulevard in a Nicki Minaj–pink blush. But Minaj has no time on this day for politics, nor for the soft summer tints gathering outside the windowless sound booth of a Los Angeles recording studio. She is under pressure to hand over a mastered version of “Last Time I Saw You,” a teaser release from her upcoming fifth studio album, and she is nitpicking. The verses sounded a bit muffled to her ear, so the team sent the track to a mixer, who brightened up the whole thing. But now it’s ping-y and “radio-ish,” she feels, and…

Cartier watch A sculpture-in-the-making wears a gem-filled Cartier High Jewelry watch like a necklace, with cabochon-cut rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and emerald-cut diamonds arranged like mere patchwork. On your wrist? It’s time to shine. Van Cleef & Arpels clips The latest to bloom in the glorious Van Cleef & Arpels gem garden? A pair of clips fashioned after a cluster of primrose buds. In lieu of petals, you’ll find rubies set in 18k gold. Wear them in concert or on their own, and fasten them to anything your heart desires, from gown to collar to lapel or beyond. Bulgari necklaces This clay bust doesn’t know how lucky it is—draped around its neck are two beguiling necklaces: On top, a Cuban-style chain adorned with diamonds and cabochon-cut rubellite and amethyst stones; on…

GR ACE CODDINGTON I first visited Vogue House in 1959, when I was a finalist for that year’s model contest. My prize was to be photographed by some of British Vogue’s top photographers—Norman Parkinson, Don Honeyman, and Eugène Vernier. I met them all at a rather daunting tea party hosted by Audrey Withers, the then editor in chief, at the photography studios on the sixth floor (the Vogue offices were one floor below). In the same studios, by the early ’60s you might see David Bailey, Saul Leiter, Frank Horvat, and Helmut Newton, while in the café opposite Vogue House, Bailey was often joined by his mates, the photographers Terence Donovan and Brian Duffy—“The Terrible Three,” as they were known—who watched the wannabe models carrying large portfolios and dragging heavy…

Alessandro Michele looks for a home in every city he visits, entertaining romantic visions for himself, and often following up on them. He has a particular love for faded beauties, run-down places brimming with history and lost grandeur—and this is why he has embarked on the quixotic endeavor of renovating one of the most iconic and mysterious buildings in Rome: Palazzo Scapucci. As a teenager in the early ’90s, Alessandro strolled the Eternal City with a solitary, focused look. Bright green hair held up in a mohawk, he was the only punk kid in his neighborhood. Merely standing at the bus stop was an adventure. He attended a conservative high school in the bourgeois and old-fashioned Quartiere Trieste—and nevertheless fell in with a group of anarchist friends before moving on.…