Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2024 i Vogue

YOU WOULD NOT THINK, WHEN it comes to Miuccia Prada, that there is still such capacity for surprise. But in Milan for the ready-to-wear shows last fall, we were struck and amazed all over again by the vibrancy and intelligence of what we were seeing at Prada and at Miu Miu. With Prada this is, of course, down to Miuccia and her creative partner, Raf Simons. Never have I known two similarly immense design talents who have achieved such a rare and intensely mutual collaboration. But when I and the other editors considered the quality that extends between both houses—so restless and modern at Prada, so playful and pugnacious at Miu Miu—it was Miuccia’s creativity, brilliance, and confident spirit that dominated the mind. At 74, Miuccia has simply never been…

As I join a video call with Johnny Valencia, the founder of Pechuga Vintage, I notice his attention split between two screens: his phone’s, where he’s talking to me from Los Angeles, and his computer’s, where he’s scrutinizing an online auction of Mouna Ayoub’s Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld collection. The French Lebanese socialite is doing away with 252 pieces from her substantial haute couture archive, and Valencia is eyeing the magnificent black silk crepe gown from Chanel’s 1992 couture collection that Christy Turlington first wore on the runway, and that Lily-Rose Depp reintroduced at the 2019 Met Gala. “I like to see myself as a vessel for transitory beauty,” says Valencia with a laugh. The vintage dealer, who started his business officially in 2018 after years of amateur thrifting amid…

Vibrant red is the first color that a baby perceives after black and white. Ancient Romans painted their villas vermilion tones and wove carnelian-colored threads into their tunics. In Egypt, red clay adorned bodies during celebratory moments. For Swiss psychiatrist Carl Jung—not just the founder of analytical psychology but a proponent of the idea that we are all ruled by underlying “color energies”—it represented both a warning sign and passion. There are, needless to say, innumerable reasons a red lip persists. For the modern woman—touring the world like Taylor Swift, who reportedly wears Pat McGrath’s LiquiLust Legendary Wear Matte Lipstick, or walking the Golden Globes red carpet like Rachel Brosnahan in a shade that matched her gown and her hair ribbon—a crimson pout elicits feelings of power. The models on…

There’s a little hidden park, Le Jardin des Rosiers–Joseph-Migneret, in the heart of the Marais in Paris. The secluded spot takes its name from the principal of a local elementary school, who—after witnessing the roundup of 165 of his Jewish students in 1942—committed himself to the anti-Nazi resistance and scrambled to keep as many other young people from the gas chambers as he could. “N’oubliez pas!” commands a plaque in the park. “Do not forget!” A leisurely 10-minute stroll away from Le Jardin des Rosiers–Joseph-Migneret, you will find La Perle, a hip brasserie with outdoor tables jammed up against one another in the classic Parisian manner. People go there to be seen, and one night in 2011 what onlookers saw was a man insulting the couple beside him, saying, among…

The follow-up to 2017’s National Book Award finalist The Leavers, Lisa Ko’s Memory Piece (Riverhead Books) is a moving, strikingly evocative exploration of New York’s art, tech, and activism scenes across the decades. The novel follows three teens from mall-bound suburban New Jersey into adulthood as they forge their own paths in a rapidly changing world. Chafing against the assumptions projected onto them as Asian American women and resisting the stifling expectations of their immigrant parents, they yearn for freedom—from the demands of race, gender, and family—while grasping at the expansive futures they once imagined.—LISA WONG MACABASCO A faded estate on Maryland’s Chesapeake shore, packed with family members for a Fourth of July weekend and haunted by its history, provides the backdrop for Christopher Tilghman’s elegant, boisterous, and moving new…

Dior Ring, ring! Spring is calling, and the message is clear: Ballet-inspired flats—with each of those seen here from houses headed by women—are the shoe silhouette of the season. Let’s start with Dior: The squarish toe box of its silk satin slippers winks at ballet pointe shoes, while the pearl dangle—like the C and D monograms adorning the straps—is there purely for the fashion of it all. Want to really walk the ballet walk? Crisscross them up your ankles for an entrechat. Khaite To be fully transparent: You need a pair of mesh shoes—that is, if you haven’t already taken the chic plunge. Khaite’s version, featuring meadowy 3D embroideries of lily buds in snow white and royal purple, is splendidly suited for spring—clearly the perfect way to step into the…

Miami Nice “Island Time” (page 250) sent photographer Theo Liu and Vogue contributing fashion editor Jorden Bickham down to Miami Beach, where they shot model (and hometown hero) Devyn Garcia—seen at center, in Marni—with her younger sister, River (left), and their model turned firefighter mom, Jennie (right). (Although she posed for other Vogues during her career, this story marks Jennie’s US debut.) Together, the crew cavorted on the beach, stopped in to the shops on Washington Avenue, and had a seafood feast at Joe’s Stone Crab, a local mainstay—enjoying just another day in paradise. Mad About Miuccia This month’s cover story, simply titled “Mrs. Prada” (page 170), had writer Wendell Steavenson meet the inimitable Miuccia Prada in Venice and Milan. Their conversation is paired with a portfolio, shot by Stef…

I like to go where things are uncomfortable, or complex,” says Omar Apollo. “Making music isn’t easy. That’s why I’ve dedicated a lot of my life to it.” It’s also why the 26-year-old musician hasn’t taken much of a break since releasing his debut album, Ivory, in 2022. A lush blend of R&B and hip-hop along with Latin trap and Mexican corridos, Ivory revealed Apollo’s chameleonic versatility and earned the singer-songwriter his first Grammy nomination for best new artist. Not long after, he left his home base of LA to open for SZA on the North American leg of her arena SOS tour. “It’s not my show, so I was kind of scared of how the crowds would react,” he says. But “seeing people’s expressions, it’s huge.” In October, Apollo released…

I’m not saying that I predicted last year’s inflation—but if you’re as addicted to shopping as I am, you probably saw the writing on the wall too: At least since the start of the pandemic, the prices of luxury goods seem to have skyrocketed from really expensive to really, really, really expensive—or from aspirationally splurge-able to no-way-can-I-afford-that. A few months ago I bookmarked a pair of designer leather boots in the hope that I could maybe budget for them, only to find that by the end of the season they’d gone up by $200, not down—for no apparent reason other than being in demand. When they finally went on sale, it was at the price I’d first seen. (Needless to say, I still don’t own these boots.) “I started to…

IT WAS NOVEMBER AND A little windy on the balcony of the Ca’ Corner della Regina, the 18th-century palazzo that is home to the Prada Foundation in Venice, where Miuccia Prada was posing for photographs against the backdrop of the Grand Canal. She clasped a red silk coat (from her very first collection in 1988) over a citrine sweater, bright and sharp against the gray sky and the terra-cotta, ochre, and verdigris of deliquescent Venice. She wore no discernible makeup; her long blond-and-auburn hair was unstyled and hung in soft curls at her shoulders. When it fanned in the breeze, she joked about looking very 1990s, like Cindy Crawford in a wind machine. Afterward, several of us gathered around a table for lunch. Mrs. Prada, as she is deferentially known,…

The videos keep coming: armed fighters taunting men with their hands tied behind their backs, bodies piled in an open grave. The videos are from Sudan, where two generals began a struggle for power last spring that has killed more than 12,000 people, displaced 6.6 million, and turned the nation into a battlefield, one that has flooded social media with images and videos that give the impression of a country burning alive. The Washington, DC–based Sudanese women’s rights activist Niemat Ahmadi can’t stop watching the footage. Nor can her friend and fellow activist Sadya Eisa Dahab. “Shooting and burning, people running for their life,” said Ahmadi when I visited her at home on a recent winter day. “It’s shocking.” Trees shook in the wind outside, but Ahmadi’s two-story house in…

In March of 1915, a crowd of fashionable patrons gathered for the New York premiere of Alexander Scriabin’s Prometheus: The Poem of Fire. The Russian-born Scriabin had composed the piece by means of what he called his “color hearing,” a synesthesia-inspired interpretation of the correlation between notes and hues—something the staging at Carnegie Hall was meant to reflect. “Over the heads of the musicians stretches a gauze screen,” reported one gushing contemporary account, “and across this screen play many-colored lights, blending, sweeping onward in overpowering beauty.” It was the first complete performance of the first composition arranged this way, notes musicologist James Baker, and a culmination of the pianist and composer’s future-forward music. Mere weeks later, the avant-garde visionary died, taken down by a simple infection. This month, more than…

The first compliment I received at Vogue came thanks to a drugstore impulse purchase. It was 10 years ago, during my first days as a beauty assistant at our labyrinthine old 4 Times Square offices. As I made my way down a corridor known for star sightings (Julianne Moore once smiled at me there), I ran into a colleague, Chioma Nnadi, whom I’d heard editors describe as the most stylish person on the planet. “You always have the perfect lip color,” she said, and asked me what it was. Flattered, I told her about the chubby MoodMatcher pencil I picked up next to the cash register at Hudson Square Pharmacy downtown. On contact its color changed from a light blue to pink, after which I’d blot everything away, leaving only…

VICTORIA BECKHAM Victoria Beckham—above, taking a quick runway turn in 2018, and above left at her London home—is the rare celebrity designer whose second act has utterly eclipsed her first. Launched in 2008, Beckham’s eponymous ready-to-wear collection has evolved alongside her, from the body-con “results” dresses of its early days to a spring 2024 show with everything from knit leotards and jersey dresses inspired by her youthful dance training to the kind of outdoor jackets and brogues she wears with her family at their English countryside retreat. (If you saw the wildly popular Netflix documentary about her husband’s storied life and football career, you likely caught glimpses of it.) “This is a very personal collection,” she said backstage at that show, but her philosophy hasn’t changed since her Spice Girls…

Table of Contents: 52: Dinosaur Designs earring; dinosaurdesigns.com. Manicurist: Mamie Onishi. Tailor: Zunyda Watson. 72: On Garcia: minidress; jwanderson.com. On Covalt: top; aritzia.com. Pants; net-a-porter.com. On Pickens: dress; michaelkors.com. Manicurist: Donna D. Tailor: Sew On Set Tailor. Contributors: 98: Top left photo: On Covalt: Hunza G swimsuit; hunzag.com. Wales Bonner pants; walesbonner.net. Proenza Schouler shoes; proenzaschouler.com. Tailor: Ombra Renzini. On Garcia: dress; Marni Soho. Proenza Schouler shoes; proenzaschouler.com. On Pickens: Eres swimsuit; eresparis.com. Free People pants; freepeople.com. Khaite shoes; khaite.com. Top right photo: hair, Akemi Kishida; makeup, Karin Westerlund. Manicurist: Eri Narita. Tailor: Lauryn Trojan. Live at the Apollo: 115: T-shirt and pants; commission.nyc. Tailor: Susie Kourinian. Red Hot: 120: Bottom photo: Jacket; select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques. Fleur du Mal bra top; fleurdumal.com. Earring; bulgari.com. Tailor: Susie Kourinian. MRS.…