Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2024 i Vogue

THAT AIR OF BEING SETTLED, of seeming content, has never been Lady Gaga’s strongest impression. She is too electric and restless, too chameleonic a creature. Who can forget the way she came to the Met Gala in 2019, an arrival-as-performance-art that included four costume changes, five dancers, props, selfies, and more? Her covers are all unforgettable too—our anniversary cover in 2012 being one of my very favorites. She’s been generous to us at Vogue, gamely transforming herself time and again. But when I read Jonathan Van Meter’s new cover profile of her this month, which accompanies shape-shifting portraits by Ethan James Green, I was left with an unusual feeling. Gaga is happy. This is not for any mysterious reason. Her film career is in full flight, with a new Joker…

You’re blushing! my sister cries with delight. We’re playing on the front steps of our London house and have just heard skateboard wheels approaching. I am 13 and in love with the skateboard’s owner, a boy who lives up the street whom I’ve never actually spoken to. He has long sandy hair and an American accent. Basically, he’s Kurt Cobain. It’s magical and mortifying and a secret—except it’s not, because it’s written all over my face. If the eyes are the window to the soul, then our cheeks are the back door. What other part of the body so readily reveals our hidden emotions? Embarrassment, exuberance, delight, desire, all instantly communicated with a rush of blood. It’s no wonder that blush has been a mainstay of makeup bags for decades:…

Saturday, Fourth of July weekend, lakeside with friends. Voices nearby are discussing the suddenly unsettled state of Western politics—in France, the UK, here in the US. Me, I’m gazing at drifting clouds, wondering what’s going on with pants. We all have our ways of processing the world. The pastoral setting had put me in mind of Jonathan Anderson’s fall 2024 Loewe show—its country-manor-through-the-looking-glass vibe. One striking thing about that collection was its smorgasbord of trouser silhouettes: balloon-shaped cargos; swishy harem pants; one style I can best describe as “überjodhpurs”—explosive volume through the thigh, tapered at the waist and calf. This is a very incomplete list. Anderson wasn’t the only designer running the pants gamut this season. At Bottega Veneta, they came stovepipe, tulip shape, cropped flare, slouchy. Chemena Kamali’s Chloé…

A new Alan Hollinghurst novel is always an event, and Our Evenings (Random House) marks his first in seven years. Yet in place of the febrile sexual and political tensions that typically define his books, the British author’s latest emerges as his most understated—and quietly moving—work to date. We meet our narrator, the gay, half-Burmese actor Dave Win, in the present day, mourning the death of his lifelong mentor as well as his increased alienation from a former friend, now a leading pro-Brexit politician. Receding into his childhood, we trace Dave’s journey from the hum of discrimination that underpins his life as a biracial scholarship boy, to his exploits as a university student and sexually adventurous young adult, to his middle-age discovery of true love. What makes it classic Hollinghurst,…

Kieran Culkin beats me to the steakhouse and receives word that without a reservation—which neither of us has made—we will not be able to walk into 4 Charles Prime Rib for dinner. “Bad news,” he tells me when I meet up with him on a tree-lined stretch of the West Village. “We have been refused.” But his spirits are not dimmed. Actors must get used to rejection, but few metabolize it as Culkin seems to: with a zip of pleasure. Be honest, he prompts me. Isn’t it kind of fun to be rebuffed? We slide into the car he has reserved and consider our options: There’s The Grill, that Midtown temple to excess where he once filmed a scene for Succession; Bowery Meat Company, which specializes in “large-format roasts”; and…

On the Flip Side “Woman to Woman” (page 148) sent Vogue senior editor Chloe Schama to Paris to meet Chemena Kamali, the recently appointed creative director of Chloé. The German-born Kamali has a long history with the French house—years before getting the top job there last October, she was hired as a senior designer under Clare Waight Keller, and years before that, she was a Chloé intern—but her relationship to Vogue goes back even further. Case in point: The snapshot above sees Kamali at 13, reading the magazine in bed while her family was living in Laguna Beach. The Time Travelers “I love working with Mikael. We really had fun, and it felt like everyone else on set did too.” So says fashion editor IB Kamara (center, in denim shorts)…

Over the course of Lobmeyr’s two-centuries-and-counting, the company has supplied drinkware to the House of Habsburg, collaborated with Josef Hoffman and the Wiener Werkstätte, and lit up Manhattan’s Metropolitan Opera House with mesmerizing starburst-shaped chandeliers. This fall, it explores a new kind of frontier with its first-ever cowboy-themed collection. Launching this month, the Marfa Collection includes six tumblers and a pitcher inspired by the mystical town in Texas. It’s a collaboration between the family-owned glassmaker, currently run by three cousins (Andreas, Leonid, and Johannes Rath) whose family has worked for the company for six generations, and Douglas Friedman, the well-known interiors and fashion photographer. Friedman was the one who approached the Viennese house with the proposed collaboration, which ranges in price from $245 to $545. “I was surprised they said…

The first four or five or six times I encountered Lady Gaga, in London or Paris or New York, backstage in Vegas or Madison Square Garden or the O2 arena, at the top of the Skytree in Tokyo or from inside a giant replica of her fragrance bottle at a party at the Guggenheim, or even when, six years ago, we hung out in her kitchen in Malibu and danced and cried while listening to music—“Like, real Italian style,” she said—every single one of those times, in all of those places, she was both there and not there. She was viscerally present and accounted for but also somehow absent. This is not a complaint. Costumes have a way of upstaging people. You can get so hung up on all the…

Table of Contents: 32: Dress; rabanne.com for similar styles. Manicurist: Ama Quashie. Tailor: Michelle Warner. Cover Look: 32: Balenciaga 53rd Couture collection coat; couture. balenciaga.com. Manicurist: Kim Truong for Glitterbels at Star Touch Agency. Tailors: Hailey Desjardins, Egle Paulauskaite. Full Flower: 72: Bag; erdem.com. SHAPE SHIFTER 107: Sweater, skirt, and dress; Dior boutiques. Vivienne Westwood fall 1993 shoes; Pechuga Vintage. Tony Duquette brooches; tonyduquette.com. 108: Coat; therow.com. 109: Dress, bodysuit, hat, tights, and shoes; maisonmargiela.com for further information. 110–111: Sweater; hodakova.com. 112: Jacket; Rita Watnick, Lily et Cie Inc. 113: Dress; Valentino boutiques. 116: Jacket; driesvannoten.com. Hat; therow.com. 117: Dress; theshopyohjiyamamoto.com. Hat; Pechuga Vintage. Manicurist: Kim Truong for Glitterbels at Star Touch Agency. Tailors: Hailey Desjardins, Egle Paulauskaite. ON WITH THE SHOWS 118–119: From left: On Zhang: jacket, skirt, and…

All of a sudden, I couldn’t stop crying. For some reason, around the turn of the year, I was waking up in tears. Then, the rest of the day, any little thing would set me off: train delays; a remix of Whitney Houston’s “Greatest Love of All” playing at the gym; showering, weirdly. To say this was uncharacteristic would be an understatement. I am pathologically level—always quick to steady myself. Until now. I was a black hole, future dimming, my weeping the weeping of a collapsing star. What the hell was going on? “Maybe,” a friend offered, gently, as I wept to her over martinis, “this is perimenopause.” Well. I should have known. I mean, really, I should have: The good thing, I guess, about living in a technocapitalist surveillance…

Plenty of us dream about, read about, and fantasize about fairy-tale endings. Fairy-tale beginnings, though? Not so much—unless you’re Erdem Moralioglu. After almost two decades of building his namesake label around dreamy dresses and romantic brocades fit for storybook heroines in array after array of lush botanicals, he’s only now setting about launching a bag—called, appropriately enough, the Bloom. “It felt like something I wanted to do before we turned 20,” says Moralioglu, laughing. “It started with the last collection, which really got me thinking about different iterations of accessories and the idea of crafting something. We started playing with a singular piece of leather, and it was a very organic process.” What emerged from all that was a distinctive handbag—one that emphasizes the dualities of pragmatism and poetry, masculine…

On an uncharacteristically overcast afternoon in August, I meet Los Angeles–based painter Hilary Pecis at her Eastside studio. The largescale works for her new solo show, “Warm Rhythm,” line the oblong warehouse walls and are getting touched up in preparation to ship out, bound for a September opening at the David Kordansky Gallery in New York. “Not my favorite,” the 45-year-old California native says of the gloomy skies, where the steadfast midsummer sun has all but disappeared. “I used to live in San Francisco, and I’m over that.” Given the exuberance of Pecis’s paintings, which bear the influence of Fauvism, the Pattern and Decoration movement, and the contradictory charms of the city she’s called home for the last decade, Pecis’s distaste for today’s meteorological humdrum comes as no surprise. Pecis…

Gucci boot It wasn’t so very long ago that being dubbed a horse girl implied some forlorn attachment to bays and grays. With a recent-ish boost from some chic equestrian models, though, everything has changed—and fashion houses that have long drawn on shapes and motifs from that world, like Gucci (replete with its legendary horse-bit hardware), have been only too pleased to double down. This shiny pair of tall boots from the fall 2024 collection, for example? Blue ribbon worthy.…