Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2015 i Wanderlust

Have you been to Cuba yet? It feels as if the world and his wife want to get there this year, with a huge increase in tourism predicted from both the USA and China. Another recent change has been the growth in casa particulares – private homes in which you can stay (something rarely allowed when I was there two decades ago). On page 24, Chris Moss encourages us to use them for a flavour of the real Cuba. With wildlife watching a big part of many of our travels, we have taken our binoculars to Tobago for a spot of bird watching (p108) and produced a month-by-month guide on what to see where worldwide (p40), from snow monkeys to Komodo dragons, gray whales and more. Talking of whales, since…

ERIC LIS Founder of Canadian micronation, the Aerican Empire Eric, a psychiatrist from Montréal, founded the Aerican Empire in 1987, when he was just a child, but it has since got its own currency, flag, anthem and passport stamp. He gives us his theory on the rise of micronations – see p12 Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle... which are you? Mountain. First great travel experience? London in July. The weather, the people, the mix of modern and historic, the amazing museums and – as a huge geek – Hamleys Toy Shop and 221b Baker Street. Favourite journey? A walking tour of San Francisco, discovering the city and the life of Joshua Norton, first Emperor of the United States. Top five places worldwide? Montréal, Canada; London; San Francisco; New York City;…

Adventures in WiLd BritAin – An evening With PhoeBe smith  London, 9 sept www.stanfords.co.uk Stanfords, Covent Garden, London WC2E 9LP. Tickets £3 (redeemable against a copy of one of Phoebe’s books). Join our very own editor for an evening of bivvies, bothies and beyond! Phoebe will be giving ideas for wild UK weekends, talking about her Extreme Sleeps Challenge, and giving sage advice on how to stay safe in the wilderness. THE CRUISE SHOW Birmingham, 12-13 sept; manchester, 26-27 sept; glasgow, 10-11 oct www.cruisingshow.co.uk NEC Birmingham, B40 1NT; Manchester Central, M2 3GX; SECC Glasgow, G3 8YW. Tickets £10 (£6 in advance), under-16s free. Whether you’re a newcomer ready to plan your first voyage or a regular looking to expand your horizons, the Cruise Show offers oceans of inspiration.…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Havana Population: 11.3 million Language: Spanish Time: GMT-4 (Nov-Mar GMT-5) International dialling code: +53 Visas: UK nationals require a tourist cards (valid for 30 days). These cost £15 if you go to the consulate in person; there is an extra charge (£19) to apply by post. Airlines/tour operators can arrange this. Money: National peso (CUP), currently CUP41.24 to the UK£; this can be used at cinemas and local restaurants. However, tourists generally have to use the Cuban convertible peso (CUC), currently CUC1.55 to the UK£. There are ATMs in main cities. Check with your bank that your debit/credit cards will work in Cuba. When to go Dry season. Plenty of sunshine; average temperatures in mid-20°Cs. Hurricane season – storms more likely; weather generally wetter. Health & safety…

How did you get into geocaching? One of my friends invited me along after trying out a couple himself; I had no idea what to expect. After finding a couple just a few hundred metres from my house I was hooked. I think I went out every day for the next fortnight, hunting for geocaches. Why do you do it? I do it mainly because I love walking and this adds an extra dimension. When I have a whole day free I try to plan a series of geocaches as part of a long walk. It’s even better when I do it with a group of friends – the social aspect of a forest walk combined with hunting for secret containers is great. Even when it’s bitterly cold or we’ve…

1 Discard the first shots First shots will inevitably be the ‘standard ones’. Accept those for what they are and then try to look deeper into the subject and the reason why you want to capture what you see. Is there a story point? What is it that provokes emotion to take you beyond that simplistic view? 2 What’s the direction? Layers and exploiting the way they interact creates a journey through the image. The leading line in the foreground rocks takes you to the caver and then the vertical in the tree finishes at the canopy. Look out for the body position of your subject. They should be doing something that says something about their own feelings. The ‘braced’ legs suggest difficult terrain. 3 Stay protected Protect your camera…

Where does your Wanderlust take you? Every month we ask ‘Where does your Wanderlust take you?’, giving you a chance to win a goody bag including a versatile High UV with Insect Shield Buff® – the ultimate travel accessory (RRP £21). But can you do better than Kelly-Marie (above)? We want to see where your Wanderlust takes you and where you take your Wanderlust! Take your magazine with you on your next trip and share a pic with us. Post it on our Facebook wall, tweet it to us at @wanderlustmag, email it to fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk  or hashtag it #wanderlustmag on Instagram.…

Travelling impulsively – exploring Easter Island with no particular plan or agenda. Jill24 Thinking about Asian adventures in China. I would go back to Chengdu for a quick trip if I could afford it! Loved seeing the pandas and the opera in 2012. @coastalspc Discovering the secret treasures of the rainforest. Many of them remain hidden – apart from the buggers that bite! Rhoda1 Seeking adventure through the epic Mongol Rally. We drove a 1.2L Vauxhall Corsa 8,000 miles over 27 days and through 13 countries in one journey! Kev Robson Looking to Wanderlust for trip inspiration. Long been thinking of a trip to the Guianas, now I’ve got a plan thanks to you. Just got to decide when! @juliamhammond Dreaming of cycling around the beautiful Loire Valley in France.…

1 Certain species of Peru’s macaws like to lick clay, a natural antidote for plant toxins in its rainforests; p40 2 You can find a geocache on the International Space Station; p60 3 Ants can be used as a substitute for stitching up wounds; p66 4 The coco de mer palm produces the largest seed – shaped like a woman’s bum – in the world; p76 5 The Swedish take their cinnamon bun-guzzling fika (coffee break) seriously: when hosting the rule is to make seven types of cookies for guests; any more or less is rude; p16…

Wanderlust aims to inform and inspire all your travel adventures. We strive to bring you the most trusted and reliable information in the world. That’s why we are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently or with a tour company. When a tour operator has been used we always try to use those who’ve scored a minimum satisfaction rating of 85% from readers in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. Responsible and sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do.…

Travel issues 1 Starting your own country is on the rise As three new self-declared nations claim an area of Europe, we look at how you can add even more countries to your wishlist... Ever got sick of the way things are run in your own country? Ever found yourself muttering “if I were in charge...”? Well some people decide to act on it and actually start their own country. Introducing the ‘micronation’, basically a legally unrecognised country that lays claim to land that is either disputed or its members believe to be unadopted. Three new micronations have already been formed this year. The Free Republic of Liberland, the Kingdom of Enclava and the Principality of Ongal all lay claim to land along the Croatia-Serbia border opened up by the…

6 Get baking for Sweden’s bun day Fika – or, taking a coffee break – is firmly embedded in Swedish culture. But it’s more than just stopping for a hot beverage – it’s a way of life. The Swedes love coffee. Per capita, they gulp down an average of 39 gallons a year. The practice of fika is adhered to religiously, daily. Swedes plan their days around it – whether they take it at work or at home, with family, colleagues or friends. Fika is not simply about a cup of coffee, it’s a social event. And having something to eat is just as essential. “In Sweden, when there’s company, you serve coffee; and serving coffee without something to eat alongside is simply unthinkable,” explains Anna Brones and Johanna Kindvall,…

Paul Theroux’s new book takes him a long way away from the exotic trains that made his name – though the southern states of America may as well be a foreign country to him. His look at the Deep South (Hamish Hamilton, £20) casts an ever-sharp eye over life, history, community and hospitality below the Mason-Dixon line while taking a scalpel to the literature that over romanticises it. Poet Simon Armitage stays on home turf too, amiably ambling along the South West Coast Path in Walking Away (Faber & Faber, £17) – a warm companion for anyone planning on tracing the fringes of Somerset, Devon and Cornwall. Slightly grumpier company is Steve Haywood, who’s following Britain’s waterways from the deck. Narrowboat Nomads (Summersdale, £10) is full of Haywood and his…

January Antarctica For… NOISY PENGUINS It’s balmy high summer on the White Continent this month – a sizzling 2°C, with non-stop days, thanks to the midnight sun. All this gives rise to a peak in wildlife, specifically penguins. January is when the rookeries are at their most raucous as chicks – emperors, Adélies, chinstraps and gentoos – begin to hatch. You might spot emperors concealing their little ’uns inside their belly pouches. Or spy a creche waiting impatiently for food; it’s not unusual to see chicks on a feeding chase, running after any old adult that’s carrying a fish supper. There’s plenty of other wildlife too – baby seals and birds such as skuas and snow petrels. January is also when whale sightings start to pick up (peaking in February-March):…

The key to looking after yourself when you’re out in the wilds is good preparation. Being fit enough for the trip you’re undertaking will mitigate many problems; also, pack some first aid essentials. However, what if something happens when you’re away from civilisation and you just have to wing it? Here are a few tips. Loo issues Being away from other humans reduces the risks of stomach upsets as long as good hygiene is maintained, which includes proper disposal of your waste. To do this, campers should excavate a small pit latrine. Use a knife or spoon to cut out a square of turf; then, if you can, dig down at least 15cm to make a toilet hole (dimensions will depend on how much the facility will be used). Burn…

GET WILD IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA Wildlife, landscapes, people and travel icons: Western Australia is the perfect destination for anyone looking for inspiration for any of the Wanderlust Photo of the Year categories. The country’s largest state offers travellers an eclectic rainbow of colours with 12,500km of white beaches contrasting with the deep red ancient rock formations and lush greenery of the state’s southern regions. Nature lovers can swim with the world’s largest fish – the whale shark – or snorkel with manta rays at Ningaloo Reef, rub shoulders with wild dolphins and walk in the rainforest canopies along the southwest coast. Moving inland, you can take the expert advice of an Aboriginal guide as you explore the beehive-like rock formations in Purnululu National Park. Away from the extraordinary landscapes, Western…

VITAL STATISTICS Nearest cities: Gotemba (east), Fujiyoshida (north), Fujinomiya (south) Populations: 88,000 (Gotemba); 50,000 (Fujiyoshida); 132,000 (Fujinomiya) Languages: Japanese; English is usually understood and spoken Time: GMT+9 International dialling code: +81 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Yen (¥), currently around ¥190 to the UK£. Take cash for use in the huts: credit cards are not accepted and there are no ATMs available on the mountain or in the huts. When to go Official climbing season. Public buses operate between Tokyo and the lower stations, all of the mountain huts are open and weather is at its best. Avoid Obon Week (mid August) as it will be busy with holiday crowds. Shoulder season. Depending on the weather, some huts open until mid-September. There are fewer people, but facilities are…

Elephant memory The game warden Bill Woodley, who is mentioned in ‘The Ivory Tower’ article [Wanderlust, June/ July 2015, issue 157], was a good friend of mine; his wife and his boys stayed with me. Bill was always busy out on patrol catching poachers; flying in a Super Cub plane, it was also his job to guide the helicopter to rescue sites around Mount Kenya. He knew the mountain like the back of his hand. On one occasion I was staying with the family, and a baby elephant – about 3ft 6in at the shoulder – was brought in as she was being attacked by locals. The elephant, called Maragwa, was given a 24-hour guard. An English horse vet living in Nairobi with his wife was brought to see if…

Japan Wanderlust.co.uk  forum user Sophie Carr relives her 12-day Japanese journey The highlight: The food – so varied and often weird, but almost always delicious. Must see: So many! Visit the temples of Kyoto, explore different neighbourhoods in Tokyo, go to see the snow monkeys and visit craft beer bars in Osaka. Top tip: Explore! Spend as long as possible there. Try the different foods in Hiroshima, Osaka, Tokyo and Kyoto. Cautionary tale: Drinking in the cities isn’t cheap. Lots of bars have cover charges (Y300-500 [£1.50-2.50). Japanese whisky is amazing but pricey. I wish I’d known... How cool Osaka is. It’s often overlooked by tourists, but the food and drink scene is quite something. Anything else? There are wonderful places to eat and drink; lovely shrines and mountains; friendly,…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Scarborough Population: 62,219 Language: English Time: GMT-4 International dialling code: +1 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$), currently around TT$9.8 to the UK£. There are few ATMs outside the more developed south-west. When to go Drier season – though rain still possible; January-March are usually driest. Temperatures in high 20°Cs/low 30°Cs year round. November-April is the best time for birds. Carnival is February/ March (8-9 Feb 2016). Rainy season. Heavy downpours can occur but clear quickly. Migratory wading birds from North America visit August-September. Health & safety No specific vaccinations needed. Chikungunya is present – protect against mosquito bites. Wear sun screen and a hat. Organise comprehensive travel insurance (wanderlustinsurance.co.uk). Further reading & information Trinidad & Tobago (Footprint, 2014) Birds of…

• EVERYONE IS WELCOME It’s not first come, first served; bothies are there for everyone to use, so try to accommodate anyone who turns up. No one should be left out in the cold. • BE PREPARED Always take a tent or bivvy bag with you in case the bothy is full/closed/ damaged. Or in case the weather is so good you’d rather camp. • DON’T OUTSTAY YOUR WELCOME The whole point of staying in a bothy is to gain access to wilder places, so get there, stay the night, then move on. Any more than two nights in the same place requires permission. Group numbers should never exceed six. If the estate closes the building temporarily, respect its wishes. • USE THE SHOVEL Very few bothies have toilets so…

PHOEBE SMITH • EDITOR • Gasping at the sunrise in Japan from the top of Mount Fuji SEE PAGE 90 SARAH BAXTER • ASSOCIATE EDITOR • Craning her neck skywards to catch sight of Tobago’s best birdlife SEE PAGE 108 TOM HAWKER • PRODUCTION EDITOR • Eyeing up the islands of the Seychelles: he’s in paradise! SEE PAGE 76 RHODRI ANDREWS • EDITORIAL ASSISTANT • Lacing his boots ready to geocache in Britain’s hidden treasures SEE PAGE 60…

How long did you spend in Mumbai making the show? It was a great trip – I loved it! I got three weeks out there; I got to walk every day and get a real feel for the place. I had a really interesting few weeks in the city and spent a lot of time walking, just trying to get under its skin. What should we do when we’re in Mumbai? What I always think with cities is: hit the streets. It’s weird because I spend a lot of time filming within museums and galleries but within the city I like to walk, walk and walk, and eat the street food. The highlights of Mumbai are the extraordinary municipal parks, which date back to the British period, and of course…

YES Tom Hawker, Wanderlust’s production editor “the guidebook is evolving, and now tech can provide different options that even a human guide can’t – the app here has extra visual info. so while they seem gimmicky (and expensive) now, eventually these digital guides will have instant access to a specialist’s worth of history, as well as all the practical info – perfect for the traveller who really wants to fly solo.” NO Julia Hammond, Wanderlust reader “there’s no substitute for the real thing. When i’ve used a human guide, it’s because i’ve wanted their expert opinion; guides have contacts in local places that you just wouldn’t have as an outsider. Also, i like to switch off my mobile during the day so i can’t check my emails. And i think…

Vicky Boughton, senior product manager for wildlife encounters at Exodus Travels (exodus.co.uk) suggests her top destinations… SPITSBERGEN: A captivating land of peaks, glaciers, endless tundra and cobalt waters, this remote icy wilderness is a must. Kittiwakes, guillemots and little auks thrive at 80° north, while walrus can be found wallowing in the shallows. In the summer months, 24-hour daylight maximises the chances of seeing polar bears. EAST AFRICA: Discover the vast plains and abundant wildlife of Kenya’s Masai Mara, witness the Migration thundering through Tanzania’s Serengeti or spend one precious hour with a family of mountain gorillas in Rwanda or Uganda. East Africa’s safari credentials are renowned the world over – and with excellent reason. INDIA: The Tadoba-Andhari Reserve is one of the emerging destinations for seeing tigers in the…

1 Choose a route that’s within your capabilities If you’ve never walked day after day, then practice. Try a weekend away, then a few more days, in the sort of terrain that matches your chosen trail. Don’t bite off more than you can chew. 2 Be ruthless about pack weight and bulk Carry as little as possible, but still pack all the essentials. You’ll be carrying this load for days, weeks, maybe months. It needs to be comfortable and not a tiresome, energy-sapping burden. Alternatively, use a baggage transfer company, then you can take monstrous amounts. 3 Check the weather forecast on a daily basis The forecast says gales and rain? Maybe skip that day, or at least dress for the occasion and take precautions. If it’s going to be…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Victoria (Mahé Island) Population: 91,650 Languages: Seychellois Creole, English, French Time: GMT+4 International dialling code: +248 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Seychelles rupee (SCR) currently around 19 to the UK£. Prices for most tourist services are often quoted in euros. Credit cards are accepted at upmarket hotels and restaurants; take cash for cheaper establishments, markets and taxis. There are ATMs at the airport and on the three main islands. When to go Temperature between 24-32°C year-round, with some humidity at all times. Seasons are defined by the trade winds Southeast trade winds bring a relatively dry spell. Prices rise July-August; book accommodation well in advance. There can be heavy rain, especially in December and January (though these are busy months – book in advance); temperature…

Letters, tips, photos & exploits from you, our endlessly adventurous readers The taxi’s engine hummed in the cold mountain air. I stood and wondered if I’d be OK with the altitude; not for the first time that day, my heart started to race. The driver had pulled over to let me relieve myself and I was now seriously doubting what we’d let ourselves in for. A dark lake lay below me, reflecting my mood, its surface rippled by the keen winds whipping off the high peaks to the north. We were already at 4,000m and still had a way to go to the trailhead at La Cumbre, almost 1,000m higher up the road. I jumped back in the passenger seat of the ageing car we’d hailed back in La Paz…

Biking in the buff In the August issue of Wanderlust, I was interested to read Rachelle Meilleur say [in response to the recent nakedness on Mount Kinabalu] that: ‘Would we be accepting if tourists posed naked in front of Buckingham Palace?’. She obviously missed the London Naked Bike Ride on the afternoon of 13 June (the Queen’s official birthday – probably a coincidence?). Unfortunately there is no evidence of anyone peeking from behind the curtains. I am not sure how many of the riders were tourists, but there was plenty of evidence to show that tourists enjoyed the event! Bruce Lloyd, via email…