Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2018 i Wanderlust

Loving a stay in the jungle: “Borneo Rainforest Lodge was amazing. I would return in a heartbeat!” Beki Smith Looking over some old travel snaps: “Reviewing photos and rekindling my memories of last month’s Arctic trip to Svalbard and Greenland.” @papaoscar55 Choosing between the poles: “I’d pick Antarctica because I listened to Ralph Vaughan Williams’ ‘Sinfonia antartica’ and it conjured up such vivid images in my mind.” John Devereux Earmarking the next trip: “Thailand is one of the places I’d most love to visit over the next few years.” @NatashaBalletta…

PAY HOMAGE TO A TRUE RAIL ICON The lucky ones arrive in Mumbai by train (the Mandovi Express from Goa is an iconic journey), but even if you don’t, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus – all gargoyles and neogothic spires – is well worth seeing. SEE THE GATEWAY OF INDIA BY BOAT The best view of the famous Gateway of India monument is from the water. Half-hour boat rides cost INR70 (76p), and from the Gulf you can see the grandly domed Taj Mahal Palace hotel, too. HEAD FOR THE CITY’S LUNG Sanjay Gandhi National Park is a vast smudge of green in urban Mumbai where you can spy chital deer, rhesus macaques and, if you’re lucky, hyenas, four-horned antelope and even leopards.…

CULTURE NORTH ISLAND The North Island edges it when it comes to festivals, such as Napier’s evocative Art Deco Festival in February, or the riotous Pasifika Polynesian festival in Auckland in March. There are more places to grab a sense of Maori culture, too, especially around the ‘Sulphur City’ of Rotorua, where a third of the population are Maori. SOUTH ISLAND Cultural gems exist in the South Island, too, but largely stem from its mining past. The west coast is rich in ‘gold rush’ ghost towns such as Waiuta, while plenty more dot the Old Ghost Road cycling route at Lyell. Then there’s Paparoa National Park’s new ‘Great Walk’ (left), which opens in 2019 and loops lush forest and the site of the Pike River Mine. OUTDOORS NORTH ISLAND  The…

“In 1964, I went to see a production of Ibsen’s The Master Builder, but I’d muddled the dates and instead saw a new play called The Royal Hunt of the Sun, about the conquest of the Incas. I knew nothing about Peru but wanted to learn more. I found out that there were still Inca ruins there, so I took a job to earn money for a South America trip. Five years later, I stood gazing down on Machu Picchu; another five years on and I returned with my husband to write a backpacking guide to Peru that started Bradt Travel Guides.”…

“My most formative life-changing experience was going to South Africa in the late 1980s. I went to a township called Alexandra and walked around with a young black man who took me to meet his family. All I’d heard about apartheid South Africa was that black people hated white people and vice versa. What I discovered was that could not have been less true, and that human beings have an amazing capacity for joy, even in difficult circumstances. It made me think: don’t just believe what you read – go and experience it for yourself.”…

“On the Katmai peninsula in Alaska, a brown bear sauntered to within a couple of metres of me, gave a loud ‘harrumph’, as if utterly unimpressed by my presence, then strolled back to hooking salmon out of the river with his great paws. In that single moment, I not only felt more alive than I had ever done before, but my whole life and all the wildlife I’d experienced prior to this suddenly made sense. I finally understood what the true definition of ‘wild’ was, and also how it was missing from most of our lives.”…

“Wee’get, the Raven, being the creator and wishing to leave a reminder for all time that once the land was white with ice and snow, set an island aside to be the home of the White Bear People. Then he went among the black bears and every tenth one he made white, and decreed that they would never leave the island for here they could live in peace forever.” ‘Story of the Spirit Bear’ told in the book Somewhere Between by Anthony Carter, who collected the stories of the Kitasoo/Xai’xais…

ALBANIAN DOG ATTACKS “On my first assignment for Wanderlust, in Albania, I was determined to go the extra mile – and quite literally did when my group didn’t want to walk to the old outpost at the top of the mountain col. The guide sent me off on my own and I nearly got attacked by a bear-guarding shepherd dog – rescued only by a six-year-old boy holding him back and speaking to me in Albanian. I thought I would never live to tell the tale…” Phoebe Smith FOOD POISONING… IN LOTS OF PLACES “I still remember fondly the time I had food poisoning on a train across Azerbaijan, as well as the time I had food poisoning after a tepid buffet in Kaliningrad, and the time I had food…

IT TURNED ME INTO A WRITER Travel journalist Helen Moat “Contributing to the community web page, blogging for Wanderlust, and now writing for the main website has helped me find my calling – as a Bradt Travel Guides writer, regular travel freelancer and champion of Slow Travel. So, thanks for that.” IT MADE ME REALISE MY CALLING Travel photographer/writer Lisa Young “I’d been living abroad for years, but had never considered a career as a travel writer or photographer – until, not long after I returned from a year in Nepal, I entered my image (pictured left) in the Wanderlust Photo of the Year competition. Because of the kind words from you guys when I was highly commended for the prize, I decided to keep going in photography, come hell…

Ashraf Masoud Where he guides: Egypt Booked through: AHI Travel (ahitravel.com) and Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent.co.uk) Ashraf loves leading groups around his native Egypt; he has even guided a few star names, including actor Hugh Jackman. One person who travelled with him said: “We not only learned about Egypt’s ancient splendours but also the complexities of its culture – and came away with a deeper appreciation of this interesting country.” Phauk Kimhoun Where he guides: South-East Asia Booked through: G Adventures (gadventures.com) A self-confessed history buff, Phauk is passionate about sharing cultures, beliefs, food and, in his own words, “Being part of something much bigger than me”. He goes above and beyond in his role, and loves introducing travellers to local projects that give back to the communities that they…

Vital statistics Starting town: Broome Finishing town: Either Kununurra or Darwin Kimberley population: 38,801 Languages: English Time: GMT+8 International dialling: +61 Visas: Required by UK nationals. Three-month eVisitor visas (free) can be applied for before your trip at www.homeaffairs.gov.au. Money: Australian dollar (AUS$), currently AUS$1.80 to the UK£ When to go Wet season (Dec–Apr): Heavy rains, extremely high temperatures (think high 30s and low 40s in °C ) and roads predisposed to flooding. Most operators offering road tours stop running. Dry season (May–Nov): Roads begin to open mid- to late April – you need to check ahead. Some road closures are always possible. Weather is warm and humid but bearable – expect averages of around 30°C and up. Health & safety No specific jabs are required. Water is safe but…

Osprey is offering one lucky reader the chance to win a Rolling Transporter 90L (Kingfisher Blue) piece of luggage. To be in with a chance of winning, just answer the following question: When was Osprey founded? a) 1972 b) 1974 c) 1976 To enter and for full terms & conditions and data policies, visit wanderlust.co.uk/competitions or send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p3); state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust or its sponsors. The closing date is 14 November 2018.…

HONG KONG Nature is not in short supply in Hong Kong. From Tai Mo Shan (957m) to the ridges of the Dragon’s Back Trail that loom over the deserted beaches of Shek O, there are natural highs aplenty to be found. For the adventurous, the MacLehose Trail meanders 100km across the mainland, or perhaps tread the tall silver grasses of Lantau Island instead on its 70km walk. There are wild encounters, too, with Hong Kong home to a higher biodiversity of reef fish than even Hawaii. Hoi Ha Wan Marine Park, home to 60 species of hard coral, is a good place to start, while back on dry land, the trails of Plover Country Park echo to the wild calls of barking deer in between the crashing of its falls.…

KE Adventure Travel is offering one lucky reader the chance to win two places on its eight-day Edge of the Sahara Trek, including international flights, transfers and all meals. To be in with a chance of winning, just answer the following question: On day 5 of the Edge of the Sahara holiday, you trek through tamarisk trees: how tall can they grow in the desert environment? a) 8 metres b) 12 metres c) 18 metres Find out the answer at keadventure.com – Trip Code: WST To enter and for full terms & conditions and data policies, visit www.keadventure.com/competitions. The closing date is 30 November 2018.…

As our Wanderlust guide to the Galápagos says: “Most of us dream of making a pilgrimage to this mystical archipelago”. No matter how many documentaries you see, nothing compares to being there – clambering the same banks as Charles Darwin, wandering the same ground as Lonesome George, or hearing the fizz of a Galápagos penguin swim past. This is your chance to make your dream happen on an exceptional voyage in the company of special guest Stanley Johnson. His passion for the environment and role as ambassador for the Galápagos Conservation Trust make him the ideal travelling companion for this extraordinary destination. HIGHLIGHTS Dazzling biodiversity Sailing around this unique archipelago affords more wildlife-viewing opportunities than it is possible to list here. Just a few of them include: sharing the beach…

To pay or not to pay, that is the question Rabies is one of the few diseases that scares the pants off me. Once symptoms begin, it is untreatable. Not only is there absolutely no hope of survival but the virus stimulates the brain’s fear centres so victims are scared to death – terrified even of their own saliva. Pre-travel jabs avoid the painful Rabies Immune Globulin (RIG) injection that is needed (with five other injections) post exposure but may not be available at your destination. Thus pre-travel rabies not only hugely reduces risk from the disease and worries about substandard treatment overseas but cuts necessary post-bite injections from six to two. The vaccine’s bad reputation is perhaps because of the 14 injections that were once given into the abdomen…

Size With airlines decreasing and increasing luggage allowances all the time, it’s difficult to keep track (not that we’re referring to any particular Irish budget airline). But do check the dimensions fit – pardon the pun – with most airlines so you’re allowed to fit them into the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you. Unpacked weight Vital to consider. With most allowances hitting the scales at 7kg to 10kg, every gram your bag weighs pre-packing is one less for your vital equipment. Organisation Some will come with organiser pockets, specially padded sleeves for laptops and tablets and vented sections to keep wet/dry or clean/dirty clothes apart. Weigh up if these things are important to you, as having them can often increase cost and grams on the…

“I want to inspire others to travel and take more chances with their adventures – and in life” Simon Reeve Step by Step: The Life in My Journeys Simon Reeve Hodder & Stoughton, £20 While averaging a show a year over the last 15 years has landed Simon Reeve on the travel A-list – and propelled him into Wanderlust readers’ affections – it’s had the unfortunate drawback of cutting short his literary career. Step by Step is a reminder that what makes Reeve’s best travelogues so entertaining is his knack for picking out a compelling, relevant narrative combined with a fun dose of boy’s own adventuring, a trait he crafted as an investigative journalist first on The Sunday Times and then on his acclaimed books on Al-Qaeda and…

1 Barriletes Gigantes, Guatemala There are festivals similar to Day of the Dead across South and Central America. In Guatemala, the Barriletes Gigantes is held on All Saints Day (1 November) and is marked by the making and flying of huge kites (some over 12m wide), which are flown over the graves of the dead. Locals also prepare a fiambre, a dish of salad and cold cuts that can include more than 50 ingredients. 2 Qingming, China For early April’s Qingming Festival, known in English as Tomb-Sweeping Day, Chinese people pay respects to their dearly departed by sweeping graves and making offerings, including joss sticks, joss paper and food (pictured). On the day, which is based on Confucian teachings, people often eat qingtuan green dumplings, filled with red or black…

I grew up in my family bed and breakfast in Preston, Lancashire. Our guests would put pins on a map of the world, showing where they were from. When I turned 19, I set off to explore as many of those places as I could. That led to years of wandering and, eventually, to becoming an overlanding guide leader with Dragoman. I found my calling. I think that everyone should try overlanding at least once in life. I take travellers across continents in specially built overland trucks, which are designed so that we can camp anywhere. You really get to experience countries at the ground level, interacting with locals and sharing the experience with like-minded individuals. People often form everlasting friendships. I know I have. On a trip, every day…

Pete Oxford Photographer Pete is a conservation photographer and guide based in Ecuador. His images of his adopted homeland bring to life our Viewfinder (p10) and Ecuador (p76) features. Life-changing travel: “When I first set foot on the Galápagos Islands, I immediately felt a deep connection to them. Little did I know that I would later live there as a naturalist guide and go on to publish four books about them!” Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth Travel health expert Writing about rabies on page 161, Dr Jane’s been with Wanderlust since Issue 1. She now lives in Nepal, and has written many travel health books, including How to Shit Around the World. Life-changing travel: ”In Kafiristan, while dressing wounds, I explained that washing limits infection. That simple message improved health locally, and…

Even by Namibia’s arid standards, the Skeleton Coast isn’t what you’d call hospitable. Over the years, Namibian bushmen and Portuguese sailors have approached this stretch of Namibia’s north-western coast with a mixture of awe and dread: the bushmen called it ‘The Land God Made in Anger’, while Portuguese sailors dubbed it ‘The Gates of Hell’. With the infamous Benguela current bringing in fierce swells and dense sea fogs, this area close to the Angolan border is known for the scores of ships that have run aground here over the years, and whose wrecks still remain. Abandoned diamond mines, bomber planes and rusting steam trains, not to mention the whale bones poking out of the sand, only add to the post-apocalyptic vibe. But, as of June this year, the Skeleton Coast…

“I was just out of university and in California for the summer when I went on a whale-watching trip. For the first two hours, there was nothing – I didn’t see a thing. And then suddenly, without any warning at all, a grey whale – it must have been 40 foot long – leapt out of the water. I was 21 at the time, but I still remember it in slow-motion: this whale appearing out of nowhere and falling back into the water with a huge splash. I remember thinking: this is what I want to do with the rest of my life! It all came from that one moment.”…

“To my wide-eyed amazement, the Woodcraft Folk organisation volunteered to take a six-year-old from the streets of Crawley to the wonders of Westmorland (Cumbria) for a week’s camping. After one day exploring a landscape carved by rivers and dry stone walls, I became lost amid brooding fells and stormy skies, and I learned travellers can rely on the kindness of strangers. Decades later, I have been lost and rescued many times. I am no better at lighting a fire from twigs than I was when I was six. But I am always thankful for the Woodcraft Folk.”…

“There was one voyage that changed the way that I looked at the world: going from Dubai to Mumbai on a dhow boat. It was in 1988, a time before sat nav and mobile phones, and as we made our way down the Gulf, through the Strait of Hormuz and across the Arabian Sea, we were entirely dependent on our crew of 16 Gujaratis, only one of whom spoke any English. But we struck up a rapport, and I was a different person after that journey. My guard was down and my fear of the unknown had begun to evaporate.”…

Tucan Travel is offering the chance to win a private ten-day tour to Peru for two people, including flights and trips to Lima, the Amazon jungle, Cusco, a private two-day trek covering a portion of the Inca Trail, a Machu Picchu tour and tickets for the VistaDome train. For a chance to win, just answer the following: In what year was Machu Picchu discovered by Hiram Bingham? a) 1895; b) 1901; c) 1911 To enter and for full terms & conditions and data policies, please go to wanderlust.co.uk/competitions or send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p3); state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust or its sponsors. The closing date is 14 November 2018.…

Kyrgyzstan clothing calamity I had no time to pack for my trip to Kyrgyzstan but saw online that Bishkek was swelteringly hot, so bought a bunch of T-shirts at the airport. Heading above the snowline, I realised this to be a mistake, and also that I’d lost my only long-sleeved shirt. The solution? Urgently grab the guide’s fleece and do lots of star-jumps. Sausage suffering Wandering around with a wild boar sausage in my pocket in Macedonia (don’t ask!), I attracted a large dog that bit my hand. Cue a saga of infected wounds and rabies treatments. Safari setback On a visit to Zambia’s Luangwa Valley, I jumped out of the 4WD to photograph an elephant. The only problem was that the vehicle hadn’t stopped. Result: torn rotator.…

To be in with a chance of winning all you have to do is head to Exodus Travels’ My 7 World Wonders website at www.exodus.co.uk/my7and select your personal seven wonders of the world with Exodus Travels on its interactive website – there are 25 wonders to choose from – and create your ultimate wish list. Once you’ve made your selection, you’ll be entered into the competition – to win the chance to visit each and every one of your selections on seven trips of a lifetime over seven years. To enter and for full terms & conditions and data policies, please go to www.exodus.co.uk/my7. The closing date is 15 December 2018.…

1 LA SULTANA OUALIDIA, OUALIDIA Blink and you’ll miss this sumptuous coastal hotel, hidden in the sand dunes halfway between Essaouira and Casablanca. With its infinity pool, private seawater jacuzzis and a handful of luxurious bedrooms (complete with king-size beds and marble en suites), La Sultana Oualidia is a knockout. But the wow-factor lies in its location, overlooking wild Atlantic coast and wetlands. Here you can ride horses on the empty beaches, go birdwatching by kayak in the glistening lagoon and slurp delicious fresh oysters right from the sea. Bliss. B&B doubles from MAD3,400pn (£278), based on two sharing; lasultanahotels.com/oualidia 2 SALUT MAROC, ESSAOUIRA Bright, bold and a little bit bonkers: that’s how we’d describe Salut Maroc’s eye-popping style. From the flamboyant feature walls to the hand-stitched pillow…

Four countries, thousands of miles and 33 days: this is one of the most remarkable tours you can undertake. And the rewards for those who join it are suitably immense: magnificent landscapes, fabulous cities and extraordinarily beautiful architecture. It’s a journey along one of the most important thoroughfares in history, connecting continents and plied by merchants and travellers from Marco Polo onwards. With guest appearances from the intrepid Benedict Allen and Jonny Bealby, founder of Wild Frontiers and a Silk Road veteran, plus a foreign correspondent, your travels will include a rich variety of fascinating viewpoints. And there will be no danger of roughing it like the traders of yesteryear. Staying in comfortable hotels throughout, you will leave the logistics in the capable hands of Wild Frontiers, allowing you to…

India is a mesmerising country full of contrasts, colour and chaos. An assault on the senses in every way, it boasts unmissable sights, and people who make it one of the most life-affirming nations in the world. It’s this mix that inspired Deborah Moggach to write the novel that would become the hit film The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, and our unique tour follows in the footsteps of Judi Dench, Bill Nighy and Maggie Smith’s endearing characters. As well as visiting some of India’s most spectacular monuments – including the Taj Mahal and Chittorgarh Fort, a World Heritage Site – you’ll spend the night in the Ravla Khempur in Rajasthan, the real-life Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. Your trip also includes the chance to meet Deborah for an exclusive talk, as…

The highlight: The gorilla trek – especially the experience of being gently pushed aside by a silverback as he passed between me and another visitor, trying to get to a fresh patch of greens. Must see: I seem to be repeating myself here, but if you do one thing in Uganda, then the choice is pretty obvious – go trekking to see the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Top tip: Be sure to take a porter on the gorilla trek, even if you are super fit. You contribute to the local economy, engage local people with these lovely creatures and help to preserve a part of nature that needs our assistance to survive. The porters also carry your bags and help you along paths that are steep, slippery and…

VALUE BUY CRAGHOPPERS Commuter Cabin Luggage 40L, £80 This pared-down, soft-sided budget wheelie is neither heavy (2.25kg; third-lightest on test) nor pricey, but has all you need for a break. It’s easy to pack, and while the fabric doesn’t feel as hardy as some, it does the job well. www.craghoppers.com AMERICAN TOURISTER Soundbox Spinner Expandable 41L, £115 This is a good price for a four-wheeled, hard-sided case, though it has fewer organisational features than others here. Fourth-lightest (2.55kg), it is also handily expandable (via a zip), increasing capacity from 35.5L to 41L. www.americantourister.co.uk ANTLER Global DLX, £155 A slightly heavier case (2.75kg; sixth-lightest), but its twisting double-telescopic handle is great for use on two/four wheels, while the TSA-approved inbuilt lock is good for US travel. It’s just a shame the…

Journeys to the Other Side of the World David Attenborough Two Roads, £25 In the late 1950s, Attenborough made his name on Zoo Quest, a TV series that followed London Zoo bods on their business. As the series went on, it focused more on capturing these on film in the wild, marking the baby steps of modern wildlife docs. Attenborough also later wrote up these early travels, with this second batch offering not just his clear-eyed insights and but a thrilling time capsule of ‘50s/60s-era Polynesia, Madagascar and Australia. Adventures for a Lifetime Ed Stafford Collins, £19 When not listing bare-cheeked around a desert island (we miss Naked and Marooned ), Ed Stafford also has a line in DIY travel books for those looking for something (much) more challenging for their…

Population: 55,027 Languages: Lao, French; English is widely spoken in tourism areas Time zone: GMT+7 Int’l dialling code: +856 Visas: UK nationals can get 30-day visas on arrival. But you’ll need to bring a passport photo, and it helps to have US dollars to pay for it, as it’s typically cheaper (US$35/£27) than using Thai baht (THB1,500/£35). Currency: Laotian kip, currently around LAK11,033 to the UK£. While it’s not encouraged, you can also pay with low denomination US dollars and Thai Baht if you’re stuck for local cash. ATMs: ATMs are widely available in Luang Prabang and most accept Visa and Mastercard. Typically, you’re charged a fixed fee of LAK20,000 (£1.80) for a withdrawal. Most ATMs won’t let you withdraw more than LAK1,500,000 (around £135) at a time. Credit cards:…

GOLD AWARD WINNER CUT AN EPIC OVERLANDING SLICE THROUGH WEST AFRICA Join Gold Award-winning guide Julie Gabbott as she navigates and drives travellers across West Africa on Dragoman’s Dakar and Accra via Togo and Benin tour. Try and spot the elusive pygmy hippo on Tiwai Island in Sierra Leone, spy lions and elephants in Benin’s Pendjari NP, visit the Great Mosque of Touba in Senegal and tread Butterfly Mountain in Togo. And that’s just barely scratching the surface on this 70-day epic, which can also be broken up into three shorter trips for who prefer short- to long-haul… Who: Dragoman (01728 861133; dragoman.com) When: 12 Nov 2018; 28 Jan 2019 (reverse journey) How long: 70 days How much: From £4,285 (excl flights; plus €1,840/£1,660 kitty) SILVER AWARD WINNER SEE A…

‘Through walking, something that seems enormous suddenly feels manageable’ Where did the idea for the book come from? I live in an area of the UK where if you don’t walk, you are wasting a landscape that deserves to be seen at that pace. I also have three demanding dogs, so I have to start my day on foot. I soon realised I was walking with an uncrowded mind: not wearing headphones, not looking at the phone, just allowing myself to be a part of the landscape. The other thing I discovered is that these morning walks do good things for the creative part of the brain and your attention span. Through walking, something that seems enormous and insurmountable suddenly feels manageable. It might take several walks to dissipate an…

“Glencoe in Scotland was my first real adventure after I left school. I’d never been anything like that distance on my own before. When I arrived it was too late in the day to go anywhere. But I thought I’d go for a quick hike. When I started my journey I was an insecure teenager. But the climb changed me. I passed hikers and climbers on the way. More than one eyebrow was raised. I reached the ridge in the dark, and stood there feeling euphoric and a bit brave. I made it down unscathed and spent a freezing night in the car, but I didn’t care. I was elated.”…

Jonathan: “So what do the ‘Big Cat People’ do when they’re not tracking wildlife in Africa? We’re not divers but we love snorkelling. Angie, my wife, was born in Alexandria in Egypt but brought up on the coast of Tanzania. So, when we were in Tonga and our friend and fellow wildlife photographer Griet Van Malderen invited us to join her to swim with humpback whales, we were overjoyed. “This was something Angie had always wanted to do, though I had a bit of a problem putting on a facemask because of my moustache – I basically swallowed a lot of ocean water. But we did have some unforgettable encounters. One moment in particular (pictured here) was absolutely sensational, and so different to the wildlife we normally encounter in the…

‘“We’ve had great orca sightings this year. But that was one of the most magical I have ever had”’ The osprey took off from a cedar tree and soared above, framed against a brilliant blue sky, its white underparts gleaming in the sun. My legs were braced, steadying me against the boat’s motion, as I watched the beautiful raptor through my binoculars. A whooshing noise next to the boat made me jump, and I looked down to see that two orcas – killer whales – had surfaced right beside us. It was one of those extraordinary moments when time both stands still and races by. There was just time to be impressed by their size and power before they descended again under the waves. There were half a dozen of…

Nov 1993 Lyn Hughes and Paul Morrison launch the first issue of Wanderlust, costing £2, with a print run of 5,000. Paul is the publisher and Lyn the editor, though Paul also writes and takes photos. Apr 1994 The third issue of Wanderlust is the first to sell out, with the magazine now on the shelves at WHSmith. Jan 1995 A stray kitten turns up at Wanderlust’s back door. Jasper, named after contributor Jasper Winn, becomes the office cat. She turns out to be female, but the name sticks. Nov 1995 The second anniversary issue has 88 pages and readers from 73 countries. New features include beginner’s guides and job ads for tour companies. Spring 1996 Wanderlust moves to Eton, with views of Windsor Castle and a friendly ghost, after…

Over the years, Paul became a fantastic writer and photographer, even if others rated his work more highly than he ever did. He took this beautiful shot during a sandstorm on a camel trek out of Zagora in Morocco. It initially appeared on the cover of Issue 35 in August 1999. It’s the only image that has ever been used twice on a Wanderlust cover: we printed it again for Issue 69 (February 2005), which was the first issue published after Paul lost his long battle with cancer.…

MEET THE EXPERT Dr Ian Yeoman is the author of the New Zealand government report 2050 – Tomorrow’s Tourism, and is a pioneering futurist in the travel sector. A senior academic researcher at Victoria University in Wellington, New Zealand, he is also a visiting professor at the European Tourism Futures Institute in the Netherlands. Space will be the ultimate passport stamp “In 25 years, the really adventurous travel destination will be space,” says Dr Yeoman. “By then, companies like Virgin Galactic will be offering suborbital day trips, and the view of the Earth’s curvature will be the ultimate shot for travel one-upmanship. It will still be very expensive, but it won’t just be for the super-rich.” ALMOST EVERYONE WILL BE ABLE TO CLIMB KILIMANJARO Switzerland is already heavily promoting e-bike…

Time is fast running out to send your top shots in to the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year 2018. This year has already seen thousands of fantastic entries flood our inbox – and thanks so much to all who’ve done so – but there’s less than a month till that 15 November closing date. So if you want to enter the UK’s biggest travel photography competition, it’s time to root through your memory cards, find those great images and send it it. It doesn’t matter whether it was from a recent trip or an old escape, it’s so easy to send them in to us! But please do note that the competition is only open to amateur photographers, with the four category winners (along with a travel companion of…

Reader travel tips You give us the inside skinny on exploring Hong Kong and Macao Just back from... The latest dispatches from you, dear reader, reporting on gorilla trekking in Uganda Travel health Some travellers think they can skimp on costly rabies jabs, but as Dr Jane (right) explains: the blood-curdling consequences may just lead you to rethink your plans The big read: Simon Reeve Why adventurer (and Wanderlust reader favourite) Simon Reeve’s latest is his bravest tale yet, as he charts his early career growing pains; plus the latest travel reads reviewed… Travel gear: cabin-approved bags We put eight new bags to the test, to find out which of these cracking cases best suits that eternal travel dream: going hand luggage only! Ask the experts Our travel gurus ready…

“I was in New York City for the weekend when I got lost and stumbled into the Brazilian Day celebrations. It was amazing! The people, the food, the music; all of it was fantastic and I’d recommend it to anyone.” Lorraine Tinsley SECRET CASCADE “Halfway through our Costa Rica road trip, we thought a stopover at Uvita village would be uneventful. But our guesthouse host took us on a surprise trip to a beautiful waterfall, which we had all to ourselves.” Caroline Lywood FEELING THE HEAT “We were surrounded by a herd of elk in Iceland – which had huddled around our coach for warmth – when we went to see the northern lights.” Rowan Parfree BIRTHDAY BIKER “My wife and I had a pillion tour of Hanoi, and that…

Where to go? All of the islands of the Gálapagos have their own appeal, but Española is the oldest and overflows with endemic flora. Sea lions litter the sands of Gardner Bay, with the most colourful iguanas in the islands found here. Best way to get around? Join a small-group boat cruise to see the full contrasts of this unique habitat. Boats alternate their itineraries around a two-week loop of the archipelago, giving you the chance to see lava fields, cactus forests, volcanic craters, mangrove lagoons and turquoise waters. Wildlife highlight? Snorkelling with sea turtles blew me away! Watching them glide through the water, only resurfacing to take rasping breaths of air, was wonderful.…

That’s the Mexican Halloween, isn’t it? Au contraire, or de lo contrario. Día de los Muertos, or the Day of the Dead, is held around the same time but, as visitors will quickly find out, it is less about scaring people and more about celebration. The theme is death, but it’s a life-affirming explosion of singing, parading and revelry. So, they’re celebrating? Yes. Mesoamerican cultures saw death as a cause for cherishing life, rather than mourning, which was seen as disrespectful. The Aztecs duly created a riotous festival (originally held in summer) honouring Mictecacihuatl, the mythological Lady of the Dead, who was sacrificed as an infant. For the two days of the festival, the underworld is said to have opened, allowing deceased souls to return to Earth for a knees-up.…

When to go: It’s worth a visit year round, though from December to early May there’ll be both snow on the ground and northern lights in the sky. Getting there: Between November and March, Norwegian flies direct from London Gatwick to Tromso from £95.80 return (norwegian.com). Getting around: While the city is walkable, renting a car is recommended. The usual suspects can all be found here; prices from around £93 for three days. Where to stay: The plush waterfront Clarion Hotel The Edge is arguably the best large hotel in town (nordicchoicehotels.com); doubles from NOK1,130pn (£104). The Comfort Hotel Xpress is its no-frills, albeit well-located, sister; doubles from NOK629pn (£58). Where to eat: Emma’s Drommekjokken (emmasdrommekjokken.no) serves up a famous fish gratin (pictured) that is popular with locals and visitors…

1 Unlike larger tourist hubs in Cornwall, the fishing village of Mousehole has retained its old character, with picturesque cottages huddled around a busy harbour (pictured top). It is also the resting place of the woman said to be the last person to speak only Cornish. 2 At the toe of Cornwall is the open-air Minack Theatre (minack.com). This classical-looking venue, hewn from coastal rocks, hosts theatre and musical performances during the warmer months, but is also worth checking out off-season and includes a fascinating museum. 3 You can spot seals all around the Cornish coast, but a good place to start is the pier at St Ives harbour, where the resident mammals often pop up to say hello. But remember, don’t be tempted to feed them.…