Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2019 i Wanderlust

Five things I have learnt this issue: if eating big hairy spiders (unlikely!), I should make sure that their hairs are singed off first (p159); that one of the world’s most surreal wildlife experiences is available again (p23); that no one knows where two-thirds of all North Atlantic right whales migrate to (p88); that Rod Stewart was rather cuddly-looking back in the ’90s (p26); and that I haven’t taken any photos as good as those shot by the winners of our annual Travel Photo of the Year contest (p10 & p110). The photography competition has been running for 23 years, yet the number and quality of entries show no sign of waning, and even the longer-standing judges get just as excited each year at the skill and originality on show.…

Star letter Hitting the heights I was recently very lucky to be able to return to Nepal for a fourth time and experience this magnificent country again in the company of some firm friends. This photo (I’m the one holding the magazine), taken from the top of Gokyo Ri (5,357m) in the Everest region was a high point in more ways than one. But, for anyone else thinking of doing this trek, I would recommend wearing a Buff or face mask over your mouth anywhere above 3,500m to avoid the dreaded ‘Khumbu cough’ (a hacking cough caused by low humidity at high altitude), which is a proper nuisance if you get it! David Kiddy, via email Going local Your recent online article on ‘5 Ways to Travel More Responsibly in…

Time to hit the (Silk) Road Exploring the mosques, tombs and ancient cities of Uzbekistan is now a lot simpler. Since 1 February, visa-free travel for up to 30 days has been introduced for UK citizens, so travellers can now skip the bureaucracy and focus on exploring the country’s incredible heritage instead. Whether admiring Samarkand’s Registan (pictured) or following in the footsteps of Joanna Lumley’s recent TV series by tracing the country’s Silk Road roots, it just got much easier. BACK FROM THE BRINK Great news for wildlife lovers. Palau’s ‘jellyfish lake’ – home to its famous stingless jellyfish – is back. Swimmers at Ongeim’l Tketau, in the Rock Islands of Koror, used to be able to paddle alongside 30 million golden jellyfish, but following the island’s 2016 droughts, jellyfish…

A flurry of arrows arced across the emerald-green steppe and thudded unerringly into a straw target decorated as an ibex. The Kyrgyz archers led the way, wearing pointed ak-kalpak hats that peaked like the surrounding snowy mountains. Alongside them were Kazakhs and Tajiks, and Mongolians, too, straining their longbows in the spirit of Genghis Khan, long deel coats ruffled by the dusty breeze. Swelling the ranks of this multinational force of bowmen were Bashkortostanis, Turkmen in shaggy woollen hats, a quiver of Iranians and a lederhosen-wearing German who looked a little out of place. The third World Nomad Games were proving riotously colourful. The game’s afoot This biennial Olympiad of nomadic sports was taking place in Cholpon-Ata, a summery resort town on the northern shore of Issyk-Kul, Kyrgyzstan’s largest lake.…

When it comes to uncovering hidden gems on your travels, it’s the locals who know best. Their stories and insider knowledge help unlock the secrets of each destination – whether that’s the best place to eat in Greece (on the shore, it turns out, tucking into freshly grilled fish from a recent catch),  or exactly where to stand to see the most spectacular Northern Lights (68.88378° N, 15.60273° E, according to Exodus local guide, Nigel). That’s why tour operator Exodus Travels only use local people as their guides – each knowledgeable and passionate about their own countries, taking you to the very heart and soul of the destination you’re exploring. Exodus visit over 100 countries, and have more than 40 years’ experience in leading adventure holidays. Here we shine a…

Montréal is one of North America’s best-kept secrets, where Old World Europe collides with vibrant modern Canada. The city – the second largest French-speaking metropolis in the world – is known for its architectural style and rotating calendar of events, with festivals celebrating everything from dance and art to world cinema and music. It’s a walkable city too: many of the most exciting districts are a short stroll away from each other, including charming Old Montréal, colourful Chinatown and the buzzing arts district of the Quartier des Spectacles. With over a century of experience, tour operator Collette can help you navigate through those narrow streets and delicious treats. Montréal in focus Collette’s Spotlight on Montréal tour takes you to the heart of this culture capital, where days spent exploring are…

One of the stand-out scenes from the acclaimed Blue Planet II series was when a tuskfish was filmed cannily smashing clams on an anvil. This is just one of the many extraordinary, perspective-changing sequences shot by Roger Munns, a British BAFTA- and Emmy-award-winning cameraman, who bases himself in the wildlife mecca that is Borneo. It is therefore a huge privilege to have Roger join this 20-day itinerary from Borneo to Singapore. It begins in his hometown of Kota Kinabalu. There he will give you insights into his career, before joining you on a tour of Borneo’s flora and fauna highlights, including the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary, Gomantong Caves and Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. Roger will also give an exclusive underwater filming masterclass in the coral islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman…

The sound was unmistakable: a deep, heavy breathing coming just metres away from where I was lying. My eyes opened fast, only to be greeted by the pitch black of the bedroom. Out of the corner of my eye I could make out the fluttering of fabric – a curtain, floating in the breeze that flowed through the window that I’d left ajar just hours earlier. Then it came again. Hearing heavy breathing in your hotel room is an unnerving experience – especially when you know for certain you fell asleep alone. But by the third exhalation of breath my sleep-fuddled brain suddenly remembered where I was, and instead of fear, I felt excitement. “Whales!” came the call from next door. My guide, New Brunswick local Beth Johnston, had been…

Adelaide, South Australia’s lively capital, is the kind of city where you end up jealous of the residents. It’s cultured. It’s easy-going. It has a packed festival calendar, huge swathes of parkland, food streets and a historic core full of handsome period architecture – generally seen basking in the South Australian sunshine. Little wonder that the place is consistently ranked by The Economist as one of the world’s most appealing urban areas. It’s a city for foodies and wine fans, art lovers and music nuts, beach  bums and museum drifters. In short, it’s a joy to spend time in. Of course, the same is emphatically true of South Australia itself, and part of Adelaide’s enduring charm is that so many of the state’s greatest attractions are…

The warm Indian Ocean lapped against the shore as an imam called the day’s last prayer. It was my first evening in Comoros and, as I ate smoky tuna brochettes at a beach-side bistro watching a vestigial crimson sunset, I wondered if these remote islands – a meeting of African and Arabian cultures – might be every bit as exotic as Zanzibar, the busy archipelago off Africa’s eastern coast that shares similar roots. Located between Madagascar and Tanzania, the Comoros archipelago was named the Islands of Qamar (the Moon) by tenth-century Arab traders. Native Comorians are Bantu Africans influenced in matters of trade and religion by the Islamic Swahili cultures of coastal Kenya, Mozambique and Zanzibar. Cloves, nutmeg and vanilla became their currency, and such riches quickly attracted Europeans. It…

A 2018 Ofcom report revealed that the average Brit checks their smartphone every 12 minutes. We’re addicted to our devices, and that doesn’t change when we travel. Going away used to mean getting away from it all; now it means uploading it all to Instagram. To state the bleedin’ obvious, the easiest way to ensure a digital detox is to leave your smartphone at home. That way you’re forced to stay in the present; to be immersed in the new rather than dipping back into the life you’re supposed to be escaping. Without the internet at your fingertips, you might ask a local for directions, get pleasantly lost or find yourself in serendipitous situations. When freed from your phone, you tend to look forward rather than down, opening your body…

Get orientated Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Neoclassic, Art Nouveau... Prague’s mesmerising architecture is a riot of styles and periods, reflecting its proud artistic heritage and its long, complicated, sometimes bloody history. The city that grew around the original ninth-century castle burgeoned in the Middle Ages, then fell under Habsburg control for three centuries until 1918, when the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian empire spawned Czechoslovakia. Invasion by the Nazis was followed by nearly half a century of Communist rule, then in 1993 the nation split into the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Prague, though, endures: a city that embraces its past while looking ahead to the future. The Czech capital cherishes its diverse historic buildings, each bearing testament to a different era of its past. The heart of the city is…

After taking six days to make the world, God rested on the seventh in Rio – if you believe the local Cariocas. He soaked up the sun (and a few caipirinhas) on Copacabana, swung his hips in Lapa and surfed the waves on Ipanema. When it was time to leave, he’d fallen so in love with the city that he left behind his only son, watching over it with arms open in permanent welcome. Thanks to new budget flights from Norwegian and favourable exchange rates, it’s never been easier to embrace Rio. Stay on the beach, in either Copacabana or Ipanema. You’ll find both within easy reach of everywhere, bathed in sunlight, stuffed with restaurants and bars and cooled by a gently wafting sea breeze. Then follow in God’s footsteps…

Capital: Bishkek Population: 5.8 million Language(s): Kyrgyz; Russian is widely spoken Time: GMT+6 International dialling code: +996 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Kyrgyzstani som (KGS), currently KGS90 to the UK£ When to go May–September: Hot, dry summer season, when nearly all travellers visit; clear skies and temperatures in the upper 20°Cs although hotter down south around Osh and Jalal-Abad. Independence Day (31 August) is marked by colourful pageants of national costume. October–April: Many mountain passes are closed by snow; at this time, temperatures potentially fall to well below zero (°C). Health & safety Kyrgyzstan is a largely safe, friendly country. There are no required vaccinations. When trekking, there is, however, a risk of avalanches, landslides and altitude sickness, so be alert and listen to your guide. The trip…

The coolest hotels in the world – literally Sleep under ice sculptures, eat off frozen plates and have a go at building your own igloo. See our top eight chilly hotels from around the world made entirely out of ice wanderlust.co.uk/IceHotels Unlikely destinations Looking for a fresh, exciting idea for your next off-beat destination? Here’s some eye-opening places, sights and cultures that you’ll have never considered visiting before wanderlust.co.uk/UnlikelyDestinations Gallery of the month Take a sneak peek inside acclaimed photographer Steve McCurry’s new book A Life in Pictures with our selection of his images wanderlust.co.uk/SteveMcCurry Go green Thailand Discover culture, cuisine, wildlife and plenty of environmentally friendly credentials Wanderlust.co.uk/ResponsibleThailand Come to Georgia Journey through the Pearl of the…

“Georgia has always intrigued “ me ” – I’ve long dreamed of exploring the little-visited monasteries, the remote villages, the UNESCO sites and pristine mountain passes. And then there’s the wine, of course, considered some of Europe’s best. So come and join me in Georgia to experience this beautiful country together. Lyn Hughes” There are few places left in Europe that can be truly labelled ‘undiscovered’ but Georgia remains one of them. Set at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, lying across a key section of the fabled Silk Road route, it is a fascinating country – both culturally and visually. As Mike Gerrard wrote in Wanderlust, ‘If I had to come up with a description for Georgia, geographically as well as culturally, it would be Middle Eastern…

Vital statistics Capital: Fredericton Population: 761,214 (New Brunswick) Language(s): English, French Time: GMT-4 International dialling code: +1 Visas: Not required by UK nationals, however you do need to apply for an eTA (electronic Travel Authorisation) at least 72 hours before you go for stays of up to 90 days. This can be done online at www.canada.ca/eta and costs C$7 (approx £4) – it lasts for five years or until your passport expires. Money: Canadian dollar (C$), currently C$1.70 to the UK£1 When to go June–October: Humpbacks, pilot, fin, minke and – if you’re lucky – North Atlantic right whales all arrive in the Bay of Fundy during this period. It’s also a particularly good season for hiking, while trips to swim with salmon take place around September (check in advance).…

1 CABOT LODGE, NEAR FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK, SOUTH ISLAND Pastoral idyll meets alpine epic at this new lodge set amid the 800 bucolic hectares of Cathedral Peak Station. Wake to views across sheep-speckled meadows and the waters of Lake Manapouri to the craggy peaks of Fiordland National Park beyond, then tuck into a field-to-table breakfast with fresh berries, honey and eggs. Fuel up well: adventures on your doorstep include hikes along the Kepler Track – one of New Zealand’s Great Walks – kayaking on the lake and boat cruises on Dusky, Doubtful and Milford Sounds. B&B doubles from NZ$525pn (£278), based on two people sharing; cabotlodge.co.nz 2 POHUE PUREPOD, BANKS PENINSULA, SOUTH ISLAND Everywhere you look, there’s wilderness. That’s the beauty of a stay in this glass hut…

Landscape WINNER Feeding on salt Lake Retba, Senegal Paul-Vlad Epure, Cabin crew DJI FC220, 26.3mm f/2.2 @ 4.7mm, 1/1,250 sec @ f/2.2, ISO 100 Judges’ comments: “A highly original and bold composition. The 50:50 split might break the rules of photography but it works a treat here. Great visualisation by the photographer to see the potential of the contrast between the orange water and chalky-coloured land when viewed from the air.” 1 Nature’s light show Sarek National Park, Swedish Lapland James Hamer, Video editor Canon EOS 70D, EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 @ 10mm, 30 sec @ f/3.5, ISO 2,500 Judges’ comments: “Captures the wonder of the aurora and that feeling of being just a speck in the universe. The presence of the three observers within the shot really makes it, lending…

Grape expectations Western Cape “Take the tram from Franschhoek to tour the Western Cape’s wine estates. Boschendal had some of the best food I have ever eaten.” Gill Bond Escape the crowds Western Cape ”If heading to Hermanus to see the whales, stop off at Betty’s Bay for its penguins – it’s less crowded than the better-known Boulders Beach.” Joy Fowler Delve into the past KwaZulu-Natal “Whether you are interested in military history or not, the battlefield tours from Fugitives’ Drift Lodge to Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift are an unmissable part of a trip around KwaZulu-Natal. They are moving, engaging and memorable.” Richard Kitzinger Hit the heights Lesotho “Take a couple of days to visit Lesotho via the Sani Pass – the scenery en route is jaw-dropping, particularly the 27-corner…

What is Fagu Purnima? This is Holi – the shirt-splattering Hindu festival of colours – but as celebrated in Nepal, rather than the standard destination of India. It takes place on the full moon in the month of Falgun (late Feb–late March) and marks the arrival of spring. Do I still get to hurl powder? Yes. Lots of it. But while a multicoloured abeer (powder) shower is still key, there are variations to, say, India. ‘Playing’ Holi in Kathmandu hots up at midday, as people head onto the streets to flirt with, tease and chase each other with powders while others hurl water balloons from the safety of their flats. So, is everyone fair game? Nepalis are generally very respectful. Un-powdered foreigners will often be asked before being ‘anointed’ for…

Before you arrive Osaka has a reputation for being at odds with the rest of Japan. In fact, the city prides itself on standing out: the local sense of humour is loud and brash, people jaywalk (frowned upon elsewhere) and the salarymen (businessmen) work hard and play harder. Long-established as one of Japan’s commercial centres (and occasional capital), Osaka was rebuilt after bombing in the Second World War. In April, 11.5-hour direct flights with British Airways launch from Heathrow (britishairways.com; returns from £570), making it even easier to explore the city’s electric buzz. Along the Dotonbori (the city’s main strip) the neon lights shine brighter than Times Square, and garish octopus figurines leer above you (takoyaki, or battered octopus balls, are an Osakan hallmark). You’ll probably find yourself beside suited…

With nearly 12m of rain pounding the lush forests of mountainous Meghalaya state in north-east India each year, life in the wettest place on Earth isn’t easy. Crossing the forests’ raging rivers can be impossible during monsoon season (Jun–Sept), and bamboo bridges built elsewhere just rot away. So, some centuries ago, the region’s Khasi and Jaintia peoples came up with an ingenious solution: they began growing jing kieng jri – living root bridges. Rubber trees are planted on either side of a river, and their roots are carefully trained to grow across the water. It can take up to 20 years for the roots to meet, and the strongest bridges are over 100 years old. Fine examples survive in the Khasi Hills and Jaintia Hills; the most picturesque of them…

TRAVEL ICON WINNER Colourful Cuba Havana, Cuba “This was taken on the seafront road in Havana. One afternoon, after a heavy downpour, I returned to this beautiful white Orthodox church and photographed the old cars as they drove past, using a fast shutter speed to freeze the splash of water made by the vehicles.” Congratulations to all the finalists of this year’s Travel Photo of the Year competition. Over the next eight pages you can enjoy the fabulous winners of the four categories in their full glory; for the complete list, turn to page 110. “Cuba’s a photographer’s dream of colourful classic cars and beautiful architecture”Geraint Rowland WILDLIFE WINNER Scissors, paper, stone… Chobe River, Kasane, Botswana “I was on an early-morning river safari when I noticed a couple of baboons…

“Pausing for a break on a motorcycle trip around the Mae Hong Son Loop in Northern Thailand.” @freespiritofme “Trekking the Himalayas with Mount Everest in the background. Amazing when you see it for the first time.” Pammi Bhogal ”Taking my Wanderlust with me on a freezing trip to the Garibaldi Glacier in Chile.” Derek Mepham “Experiencing an unforgettable sunset with magical colours in Lac Assal, Djibouti.” Sebastian Huschner “Getting ready to join the Day of the Dead celebration in Oaxaca, Mexico. Great costumes.” Andrew Heppleston “Dangling my feet over Washington’s Vance Creek, on one of the highest railroad trestle bridges in the USA.” @onewaywander “Walking on an ancient Inca road in El Cajas National Park, near Cuenca, in Ecuador.” Louise Markus “Experiencing the colourful, vibrant energy and culture of the…

You’d be surprised what you can do with the humble chickpea. Fry up some falafel, mash them into hummus, toss into a curry – whatever you like. Best of all, this flexible legume is also the star of Turkish street snack nohut piyazi (see online for recipe). Mix with onion, garlic, sun-dried tomatoes and peppers – it’s easy. Yet this simple treat as much a tradition as it is food. Travellers to Turkey will find this dish on any corner in south-eastern Anatolia. Vendors cook the chickpeas in a rich lamb stock (use veggie stock at home if vegan) and serve in fresh salads or stuffed into rolls sold in front of bakeries as breakfast for ravenous workers. This tradition is still going strong in cities such as Sanliurfa and…

Sometimes I think the best part of travelling is sitting still. I was co-leading a trip to the Luangwa Valley in Zambia, and one of our guests, Heather, decided not to take part in the morning walk. This was quite a big deal: it is, after all, the centrepiece of the day – the principal activity, what you’ve come for, what you’ve paid your money for. So I was… concerned. The others came on the walk, the highlight of which was a herd of 1,000 buffalo going down to the river to drink – you could almost see the level of the water dropping as they did so. Back at Crocodile Bushcamp, the first thing I did was check on Heather. She was smiling in the manner of an angel…

1 Afghanistan Trek the Wakhan Corridor and visit UNESCO-listed Bamiyan’s Buddhist heritage. Be sure to travel with a group as insurgent activity may currently be an issue. 2 Kazakhstan Visit eagle hunters, admire Almaty’s old architecture and marvel at the immense Charyn Gorge. And immense but safe country to visit. 3 Pakistan Enjoy the fertile Hunza Valley, meet the unique Kalash people and trek to K2 base-camp. Northern Pakistan is spectacular yet not without risk, so go with a tour. 4 Tajikistan Hike Jizeu Valley, travel the Pamir Highway, which is often described as the ‘roof of the world’, and experience a homestay in the dramatic Fann Mountains. 5 Turkmenistan Marvel at Ashgabat’s opulence, sleep by the Darvaza gas crater and ride thoroughbred akhal-teke horses. Getting a visa is difficult…

THE INCA TRAIL, PERU THE USUAL: Few icons inspire as much emotion as Machu Picchu. Your first sight of the sprawling Inca citadel from the Sun Gate is unforgettable: it seems to have been whittled from the very rock by a divine hand. And the trek to get there is just as exhilarating. The 43km Inca Trail is a testing route snaking past ancient ruins and across slopes carpeted in cedar, intimpa and laurel. It also requires forward planning: only 500 permits per day are issued for ‘the’ Inca Trail. THE ALTERNATIVES: Some companies offer a five-day alternative rather than the typical four-day itinerary, staggering campsites and starting later in the day to avoid logjams on the trail. But there’s more than one Inca trail: some 30,000km of stone-paved tracks,…

The secret of an unforgettable travel experience? Exploring with the experts. Not only with a great guide at your side, ready to reveal your destination’s authentic treasures, but also with a top-notch tour operator, on a carefully crafted itinerary. That’s why we launched Wanderlust Journeys – a curated selection of exclusive trips, taking you all over the world in the company of the most knowledgeable and respected names in the travel industry. We partner with tour operators that we know and love, combining the very best adventure itineraries with great local guides and high-profile expert guests. And with each exclusive trip endorsed by Wanderlust, you know you’ll be in excellent company too. LATEST TRIPS Malaysia with legendary cameraman Roger Munns; an off-the-beaten-track adventure in Georgia with Lyn Hughes; an Iceland…

If you have yet to visit the unique island of Iceland then this is surely the arm-twist you need. With its thundering waterfalls, dramatic volcanoes, mighty geysers and otherworldly landscapes, Iceland continues to grow in popularity and it is not hard to see why. This seven-day small-group tour is one of the best ways to explore the island, from buzzing capital Reykjavík to the natural wonders of the Golden Circle. Added to this is the chance to do so in the company of one of Britain’s greatest mountaineers and adventurers – the irrepressible Sir Chris Bonington. As well as talking about his extraordinary adventures, he will join you in exploring this striking scenery, including a glacier walk across Vatnajökull, Europe’s biggest ice cap. It promises to be a trip to…

When it comes to American music, all choruses lead to the Deep South. A pulsating hotbed of blues, country and rock ‘n’ roll that soundtracks the fascinating culture this region harbours. It’s a way of life that the experts at Grand American Adventures can help you tune in to, offering you the chance to win a place on their toe-tapping Deep South and Delta Blues tour. One king to another First stop: Atlanta. You have the day to explore this iconic city, well known for its Southern charm and delicious local cuisine. Next, spend time in Birmingham soaking up the birthplace of the civil rights movement, spearheaded by Dr Martin Luther King Jr, before bee-lining south for the cultural crossroads of New Orleans. Wander its elegant French Quarter, feast on…

There’s a wilderness to discover at the heart of Japan. Nearly 70% of the country is covered by forest, striped with snowcapped mountain ranges and pocked with rumbling volcanoes. There are fairytale woodlands, sprawling national parks and tropical islands teeming with weird and wonderful wildlife. You can get your fix of food and late-night fun in the cities, but if you want a taste of the real Japan, head to the countryside where few travellers venture… SCENIC HIKING It’s no surprise that hiking is a favourite Japanese pastime: two-thirds of its land is mountainous. Walking is especially popular in Hokkaido, northernmost of Japan’s main islands, where temperatures are cooler than in the rest of the country. The scenery here is soul-stirring – trails snake over hills strewn with alpine flowers,…

The highlight: Seeing the rich history, culture and diversity of the Abrahamic religions in the Old City of Jerusalem. Must see: The Western Wall – sometimes called the ‘Wailing Wall’ – at the Temple Mount is a Jewish site of pilgrimage, and an opportunity to put pen to paper with a global peace prayer, which is then folded and placed in one of the cracks in the wall. Top tip: At the top of the Carmelite Monastery of Mukhraka, just outside the coastal city of Haifa on the Horn of Carmel, there’s a panoramic viewpoint offering breathtaking vistas. Cautionary tale: Some airlines flying into Tel Aviv have strict security protocols, so be prepared to answer lots of questions before check-in, and be aware that queues for busy flights can be…

HIT THE HIKING TRAILS AROUND SAN FRAN Q We’re spending time in San Francisco – what’s the best day hike within easy reach of the city and what wildlife can we see? Ian Tilbury, via email A Beyond the urban core of San Francisco, the natural beauty of the Bay Area is ripe for exploration on foot. About an hour’s drive north of the city, the 287km sq Point Reyes National Seashore is a top hiking spot, with a web of trails unfurling from the cliff-edged coastline into sprawling grasslands and pockets of pine forest. Wildlife-spotting opportunities are plentiful here: look out for migrating grey whales along the Chimney Rock Trail; spot herds of tule elk at wind-swept Tomales Point on the northern tip of the peninsula; or glimpse majestic…

“Basilicata has always been poor – even the mafia didn’t bother us,” my guide, Nicola, smiled. It’s a Iine I heard a lot in this improbable region. Paradoxically, it has enough oil to make a Texan envious – yet for decades it was known only as ‘Italy’s shame’. In the 1940s, the writer Carlo Levi, exiled to southern Italy by the fascists, wrote of a city of caves called Matera. He told of its ‘tragic beauty’, and of its people who lived in ‘dark holes’ known as sassi, hand dug from the rock since prehistory. Levi’s words later caused a stink in post-war Italy, and in the 1950s Matera’s sassi were cleared and its residents relocated. After lying derelict for decades, it was only in the 1990s – after a…