Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2020 i Wanderlust

New faces and old legends have been keeping us anchored to our cosy armchair this month. First in the saddle is Reza Pakravan, whose adventures pedalling from Europe’s most northerly point to the bottom of Africa is now a gripping four-part TV series on Amazon Prime. Already an excellent book, Kapp to Cape sees the cyclist battle challenges such as thieves, armed militias, malaria and the increasingly fractious relationship with his touring partner, although his greatest hurdle could well be the internal conflict within him as he finds himself torn between wanting to explore and desperate to set a new record. Travel hero Sir Michael Palin gets a well-earned four-part retrospective with Michael Palin: Travels of a Lifetime [BBC iPlayer]. The series sees him reflect on his four landmark shows…

It was a daunting sight. An armada of narrowboats faced me, waiting their turn to go into the lock I was exiting, some of the skippers clearly as novice as me and desperately trying to get out of my way. So having successfully avoided them, I enjoyed a brief few moments of smugness as I navigated a right hand bend only to find a boat heading straight towards me on the wrong side of the canal. I put my boat into reverse to slow and stop her, but the woman steering the other narrowboat frantically waved at me to pass her on the wrong side. Cursing under my breath I did so, only to then over-steer back to the right hand side and get the long suffering Amelia spread-eagled across…

“Picture ‘the Silk Road’ and it’s the incredible cites of Uzbekistan that spring to mind. I can’t wait to see them but also to meet Uzbek locals and experience some of its natural beauty too.”Lyn Hughes No matter how many photos you’ve seen of Uzbekistan’s Silk Road cities, nothing prepares you for the scale, sumptuousness and richly storied history of Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand. They’re yours to discover on our exclusive trip with Wild Frontiers – as well as taking in the Soviet monuments of Tashkent, and the peaks of Nuratau Reserve. You travel in the company of Wanderlust’s editor-in-chief Lyn Hughes, swapping tales in local tea houses, seeking out Uzbek’s best plov (biryani), and delving into the treasures of this ancient cultural crossroads. HIGHLIGHTS Step back in time From…

“Georgia more than lived up to my expectations, thanks to its fabulous scenery, culture, history and people. Oh, and not forgetting the wine. To travel there with Dario was a real pleasure.”Lyn Hughes In search of pristine mountain scenery, celebrated vineyards, and ancient cave towns? Well, Georgia has them all. Best of all, it’s still practically undiscovered. Team up with former Wanderlust World Guide Awards winner, Wild Frontiers’ Dario Ghirlanda, who’ll show you the lesser-explored side of the land on this 11-day small-group tour. Explore Georgia’s crown jewels – the current and former capitals of Tbilisi and Mtskheta, where UNESCO-listed gems and hidden treasures go hand in hand – before delving into the remote Tusheti region. HIGHLIGHTS Tbilisi Set on the banks of the Mtkvari River, Georgia’s cosmopolitan capital is…

Get orientated The hexagon-shaped Galle Fort is so compact that you could zip about the whole place in a few hours – but it’s worth lingering at least a few days to soak up its charm. The UNESCO World Heritage Site sits on a peninsula on the west coast of Sri Lanka, 125km south of the capital Colombo. The area’s colourful history dates back to its days as a port, when it exported cinnamon from as early as AD125. The Portuguese arrived in 1588, fortifying the city in the 16th century before the Dutch took over in 1640, later building the present granite wall that's become one of the area’s defining visuals. The British then arrived in 1796, occupying the region until Sri Lanka finally gained independence in 1948. Today,…

According to local legend, the Brecon Beacons took their name from ancient signal fires lit on the mountains to warn of invaders. Whether that’s true or not, there’s clearly been a fear of invasion in this part of South Wales, with castles, forts and other defensive sites right across the Brecon Beacons National Park, from the Iron Age through to Second World War anti-tank blocks. Many of the defences are still standing. The closest thing to an ‘invading force’ now are the visitors who come to hike, bike, paddle or ride horses through the park’s wild spaces. The only fires I saw on my visit were in warm, welcoming pubs. Established in 1957, the Brecon Beacons is one of Wales’ three national parks. At the heart of its 1,347 sq…

Watching a caravan of camels plod across the valley, it’s surprising how little Wadi Rum has changed since the Nabataeans ruled the land over 2,000 years ago. The vast desert in southern Jordan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a rich past – documented by the remains of a Nabataean temple and 25,000 petroglyphs hewn into sandstone and granite rock. Rich in iron oxide, the turmeric-coloured, valley looks spectacular set against brilliant blue skies. By day you can climb over rock bridges, explore the 100m-long Khazali Siq dry canyon and lumber up rippled sand dunes. Or try a trek: at over 1,800m, Jabal Umm ad Dami near the Saudi Arabian border is Jordan’s highest point – from the peak you can see the Red Sea, and you may spot…

“Take a holiday from reality whenever you like, and come back without so much as a headache or a mythology.”Aldous Huxley, Brave New World Golden arch Jabal AlFil, Saudi Arabia Photographer: Robert Polidori Visitors to Saudi Arabia’s north-west AlUla region will quickly see for themselves why the Jabal AlFil rock arch is nicknamed ‘Elephant Rock.’ Seeing that trunk in person will become easier, with the region scheduled to reopen in October, letting people explore an area that contains sites such as the UNESCOlisted Nabatean kingdom of Hegra. To further tantalise your travel taste buds, a coffee-table book celebration of AlUla’s riches has just been released; AlUla (£695; Assouline.com) is a luxury bit of publishing, with exclusive photography from Robert Polidori and interpretive illustrations from artist Ignasi Monreal – an indulgent…

”This is my eight-year-old son, Harris, with his grandad, Bryce, searching the sea for wildlife at St Abbs.” Jarrad Webb “Camping on the dunes with this view of Monument Valley and watching the sun set and rise. Memorable!” Claudia Pinn ”A fantastic day walking around Hayling Island in Hampshire and visiting the sunflower farm.” Gunilla Roberts ”I took full advantage of sunny Sunday to explore Castell Dinas Brân, overlooking the Welsh town of Llangollen.” Kiara Gallop ”Hidden under Tintagel’s castle ruins lies a hidden beach, home to Merlin’s Cave and this waterfall.” Lani Wilkinson ”Enjoying the sunshine and views, while walking the 16km circuit around Derwent Water, the Lake District.” Lorna Roberts ”Forever climbing summits and chasing sunsets at (1,085m) Mount Snowdon.” Louise Wilde “Admiring a Fistral Beach sunset after…

About halfway up the 2,446 stone steps to the shrine atop Mount Haguro, I was closing in on peak grumpiness. It was bad enough, I remember chuntering to myself, that I was essentially hiking in fancy dress; even worse that passers-by kept taking photos of me. I was in Haguro to experience life as a yamabushi, the ascetic hermits that for in excess of 1,000 years have used the Dewa Sanzan mountains in Japan’s Tohoku region as the focal point of Shugendo, a religion that blends Buddhism, Shintoism, Taoism, and pre-Buddhist mountain worship. I was dressed all in white – in a happi coat, split-legged trousers and tabi shoes – and I was being led by a veteran yamabushi, my sensei for a couple of days. Our hike was all…

What to take The narrowboats are very well equipped but some hire companies require you to take your own towels. Wear non-slip shoes. You’ll be exposed to the elements so don’t forget sun protection, hat and wet weather gear. With limited space, don’t overpack and a squashable bag, rather than a suitcase, will be easier to store. Gloves are a good idea at the locks to protect your hands. Although you should take food and drink, part of the joy is stopping at pubs en route. There will also be shops within walking distance of the canals. Take folding chairs so you can sit out on the bank in good weather. You’ll see lots of wildlife so consider taking binoculars and bird/flora books. Reading & Resources You’ll need a good…

Wildlife. Scenery. History. Pubs. The UK’s got plenty of them all, and one of the best ways to experience it – and certainly the most relaxing – is at the tiller of a narrowboat. If you’re one of the many travellers considering a UK canal boat adventure for the first time, you’ve got plenty of options to explore while you’re learning the ropes. From short breaks to weeks away, there are hundreds of routes to choose from... 1 Glide through the Brecon Beacons Isolated from the main canal network, the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal runs through the Brecon Beacons National Park. This quiet waterway, with very few locks is nice and easy for beginners and offers canal boat holiday-makers incredible mountain views, dark night skies for star gazing, plenty…

“Pomskizillious and gromphiberous, being as no other words can describe its magnificence.” This is how the poet Edward Lear characterised the coast of Gozo after spending a holiday here walking, drawing and painting. That was in 1866, so would he still be so enamoured of Malta’s little sister island today? Just 7km across the water from its busy, built-up, neighbour, Gozo is a world away. Rural and relaxed, it has a laidback feel that has spawned a local saying: ‘Gozo runs on GMT’. Not Greenwich Mean Time, but rather Gozo Maybe Time. The calm of this island seems to elasticize the hours. Fresh mornings merge into drowsy afternoons that blend into languid Mediterranean evenings. Everyone has time to pause for a chat in the village shop, or out on the…

Reader travel tips We asked if you had any cool pointers for our next visit to Turkey and, well, it turned out you had absolutely loads – from alternative balloon rides to cool places to eat. So well done you! Just back from... Reader Nandini Chakraborty and her husband tested the post-lockdown travel waters with an Italian trip to Cinque Terre, Florence, Rome and Pisa. Pocket guide: Galle Fort, Sri Lanka This UNESCO World Heritage site on the west coast of Sri Lanka is a delightful blend of Portuguese, Dutch and British history and contemporary Sri Lankan culture. We take a short walk around this travel icon, taking in the colonial buildings, local street food – coconut ice cream! – and the local people enjoying the beach during the day…

The highlights: Climbing the Duomo. The views from the top are worth the 463 steps as the vistas of Florence glowing in the summer sun, terracotta roofs and church spires are unforgettable. Must see: Obvious, but the Roman Forum and Colosseum. The history that emanates from the carved stone and cobbled streets holds one in awe. Finishing at around 7pm, when the site is closing down, is a bonus. The sun hangs low in the sky, the breeze is cooler and the monuments glow honey-coloured. Top tip: A morning in one of the catacombs in Rome is well spent – especially in the summer heat. Cautionary tale: Face masks were necessary in all enclosed spaces, and in summer this can get very suffocating. So factor this into your itinerary while…

UK’s best autumn walks Our pick of the top UK walks for rustic hues, most of them short enough for a sunny autumnal afternoon… wanderlust.co.uk/AutumnWalks Most haunted places From ghostly castles to paranormal pubs, these ‘possessed’ destinations are sure to spook the most sceptical of travellers... Wanderlust.co.uk/MostHauntedPlaces Greatest travel experiences The definitive travel wish list, as chosen by the people most in the know – the incredible Wanderlust readers. wanderlust.co.uk/ GreatestTravelExperiences Surreal landscapes quiz These awe-inspiring natural wonders could be from another planet – but do you know your red rivers from your eerie caves? Try your luck with our quiz. Wanderlust.co.uk/SurrealLandscapes Discover Azores Rich in untamed beauty, warm hospitality, and everything from whale-watching to scuba diving, the Azores is the ultimate escape from COVID-19-era worries. Wanderlust.co.uk/VisitAzores WIN! Win amazing…

Star letter Armchair amazements “I’m so happy! Giraffe!” Two-and-a-half-year-old Fiona told her daddy, mimicking me, her great-aunt, on spotting a giraffe in South Africa on one of the explore.org webcams. She was sitting on my lap, mesmerised by elephants, zebras and gorillas. I am a daily viewer of the African Wildlife streams, and the other night a leopard crept towards a waterhole while, as the cam panned back to reveal, a giraffe was drinking. Was the leopard preparing to pounce? Or waiting to drink? It stopped, waited; the giraffe drank a few times and eventually sauntered off; the leopard came down to drink. Phew! My other favourites are watching the brown bears catch salmon in Alaska and the Panama bird-feeder table – I was one of the few who saw…

KING OF THE HILLS Be among the first to complete the King Alfred Way, a 350km cycling trail around the ancient kingdom of Wessex. The route starts and ends in Winchester, Hampshire – where the Anglo-Saxon king Alfred the Great is buried. You’ll then leave the road for gravel paths and plains, pedalling past Stonehenge, Farnham Castle and Iron Age hill forts. Look out too for the Neolithic-era Avebury stone circle and the Uffington White Horse Bronze Age chalk carving. Semi pros who are a glutton for punishment can also ride along the North Downs Way, South Downs Way, Ridgeway or Thames Path, all of which connect to the new track. cyclinguk.org Just the ticket Eurail has a new ticketing system that seems too good to pass up. Eurail and…

Few travellers get to have Amsterdam ‘all to themselves’. Even locals struggle. But the COVID-19 lockdown in the Netherlands unveiled a murky truth previously hushed: far fewer people live in the vibrant Dutch capital than you’d think – around 820,000 – not least compared to the some 20 million visitors who swarmed the city each year. Post-lockdown, Amsterdam’s quietened streets are preparing for footfall, though a little less of it, at an easier pace. So, now could well be your best chance to seize a hidden corner, spot a queue-less attraction or find a private oasis in a peaceful park. Arriving into Centraal Station, the city unfurls before you, a sprawling web of 17th-century canals, cycling lanes, cultural relics and mauve-coloured houses. Opportunities for personal discoveries can be sought out…

Balkan showers WORDS MATTHEW FIGG “Remind me again why we thought this was a good idea?!” I gasped, kicking up a dense cloud of dust that lingered ominously in the impossibly still summer air. I turned my head, wiping thick beads of sweat from my forehead and hoping to be rewarded with a view across the red-tiled rooftops and delicate minarets of Prizren, the charming second city of Kosovo. This hope rapidly crumpled into dismay, as I realised we hadn’t even broken through the treeline. “Without introducing himself, he flashed a crooked grin, turn on the hose and started the flow of water” My partner and I had arrived in the city a few hours earlier, in the midst of a blistering Balkan heatwave. We now found ourselves barely a…

Bubbles. Time was, not so long ago, we delighted in bursting them: it’s why we travel – to break out of our comfort zones, to discover strange sights and exotic cultures, to meet new people, to try unfamiliar foods, to sleep in beds that are not our own. Today, though, we’re exhorted to stay within that very comfort zone – to maintain ‘bubbles’ within and across households. Yet for the foreseeable future, travel will be tricky without at least a bit of bubble-busting. At some point you may need to board a plane, train, bus or boat, eat in a restaurant, stay in a hotel room. Of course, risks can be mitigated: airlines reduce passenger numbers, mandate facemasks, disinfect cabins. Restaurants space tables. Hotels boost deep-cleans and online check-ins, with…

Vital statistics Capital: Victoria (Rabat) Population: 32,700 Language(s): Maltese, English Time: GMT +1 (summer GMT +2) International dialling code: +356 Money: Euro, currently around £0.89 When to go June-Sept Gozo’s hot, dry, Med summer season. There is usually at least a little sea breeze on the coast. Oct-Nov Still warm but cooler than summer so better for walking and sightseeing. Sea still warm enough to swim. Occasional storms. Dec-Feb Quietest time with cheap deals. Often still sunny. Average daily temp in Jan: 9-14°C, but can get cold and damp. March-May Spring flowers decorate the green landscape. Lovely for walking. Seawater colder than autumn but usually less rain. Health & safety Malta is a European Mediterranean country with no special health risks. Check out fitfortravel.nhs.uk for latest info. Malta’s health service…

Up the chimneys Pasabag fairy chimneys “If you’re unlucky enough to get up at 3.15am for your balloon ride over Cappadocia only to find the conditions aren’t right, don’t despair. Go to the Pasabag fairy chimneys, where you can see the brides and grooms having early-morning photos as the sun rises.” Sarah Hand Carving a view Pergamum “Check out the remains at Pergamum, set on a mountain with an amphitheatre carved into its side. Better than Pompeii!” Kris Joslin Safe scarfing Handy tip ”Bring a spare scarf/sarong that you can use to cover your arms/ face when visiting religious spots and mosques.” Rachael Watkins Western wonders Priene & Miletus “If you are staying in the west or south-west, do visit the ancient cities of Priene and Miletus. These sites are…