Indholdsfortegnelse for May - June 2021 i Wanderlust

For a very long time, we’ve taken travel as granted. Yet for more than a year now, many of us have had to fulfil our wanderlust only through armchair travel, through throwbacks to our travel memories, through virtual travel. Indeed, we’re so grateful to you for keeping your wanderlust alive through our magazine. This edition is quite special. As details on the resumption of travel are finally emerging, we are proud to present you with our biggest issue ever! You’ll experience an enhanced look and feel throughout, with inspirational photography and insightful, stimulating travel writing. There’s a whole new range of features and sections that have been added (see right); what does remain intact, is our commitment to bringing you the most rejuvenating ideas for authentic travel, for sustainable travel,…

Montpelier at twilight, Vermont, USA With a population of just under 8,000, the USA’s smallest state capital was originally named after the city in southern France. The ambience, however, is quintessentially New England, with visitors exploring quaint architecture, a lively arts scene and a diverse range of restaurants, largely thanks to the presence of the New England Culinary Institute. The city’s crown jewel is the impeccably restored Vermont Statehouse, one of the oldest and best preserved in the country – complete with a distinctive gold-leaf dome. With a number of Vermont’s famed ski resorts under an hour’s drive away, and just 15 minutes from Ben & Jerry’s original factory (do the tour), it’s a great base from which to experience the Green Mountain State. © Sean Pavone/Alamy Rolling out the…

”Ticking off our final sighting of the big five; a lone lion guards her kingdom in Serengeti NP, Tanzania.” @hannahsimm_ ”Walking the South Downs Way in Sept. Here looking back over the Seven Sisters.” Gunilla Roberts “The temple ruins are a glorious sight, even more captivating with locals at Ayutthaya, Thailand.” Sam Rios / @creativerios “Terekeka, South Sudan. A young Mundari takes care of his cattle. Staying with the Mundari was remarkable.” Joe Buergi “A stunning sunrise at Bamburgh Castle. The North East coastline is truly spectacular.” Scott Antcliffe / @uktravelman ”Here's a pic from when we were walking part of the Geopark Way, near Stourport-on-Severn.” Linda Cox “The Aurora Borealis leading the way for us over Quebec at 13,700m before we coast out for London.” Steve Smith / @thegeordiepilot…

1 Putting in the hours “I miss the excitement of researching, which would include how to travel there, options of places to stay and places to visit and activities that are available – but not necessarily booking too much in advance.” Peggy Martin 2 Stocking the suitcase “I really miss getting new guidebooks, sorting out a few silk sarongs and swimsuits, and escaping!” Linda Gemesi 3 Building the excitement “That feeling of anticipation when you arrive at an airport, about to embark on an adventure. Arriving a little early so you can browse the airport shops, have a coffee or glass of bubbles and stock up on magazines and aeroplane snacks. It’s almost better than the trip itself!” Lynelle Swanepoet 4 Reaching the sky “Being a redundant pilot, I miss…

Seville’s storied Hotel Alfonso XIII was commissioned by – and named after – the King of Spain for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929, serving as the residence for visiting international dignitaries but with a bigger aim: to become the grandest hotel in Europe. It quickly became one of Seville’s best-loved buildings and an integral part of the city’s social life; the ‘Alfonso’ is still owned by the City of Seville today. Its elaborate decoration in the Neo-Mudéjar style, fashionable in the early years of the 20th century, continues to dazzle guests and visitors alike, transferring them to a romanticised bygone era of Moorish elegance. The Hotel Alfonso XIII has 148 rooms corresponding to three different looks, each design reflecting a facet of Seville’s own idiosyncratic personality: Andalusian style, with leather…

The author travelled with Audley Travel (01993 838615, audleytravel.com/antarctica). Audley Travel offers 15-night, tailor-made citizen-science adventure trips to Antarctica operated by expedition experts Polar Latitudes (polar-latitudes.com), starting from £9,995pp, including 12 nights aboard an expedition vessel on a full board basis, two nights in Buenos Aires and one night in Ushuaia (both on a B&B basis), all flights and transfers. Vital statistics Capital: None Population: Around 4,000 seasonal scientific staff Languages: International Time: GMT-3 (Antarctic Peninsula) International dialling code: None Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: No currency. Port Lockroy shop takes UK sterling, euros, US dollars and credit cards. When to go The heart of Antarctica experiences some of the most extreme conditions on earth – the lowest temperature recoded at Vostok Research Station is -89°C. The Antarctic…

1 Pick an eco-friendly destination When it comes to sustainability, different countries have different priorities. So if responsible travel really is important to you, take a look at your destination’s eco-credentials before you book. Are its nature reserves outstanding? What’s its stance on single-use plastic? Does it provide an amazing experience without shortchanging the environment? Find a place whose priorities align with yours. France, for example, was the first country in the world to announce a total ban on the sale of single-use plastic cups, cutlery, plates and take-out boxes. Meanwhile, 90% of Costa Rica’s energy supply is renewable – thanks to its abundant geothermal, wind and hydroelectric resources. It aims to become entirely carbon-neutral by 2050. 2 Don’t stick to high season High season means high prices, but that’s…

A hybrid cargo and cruise ship that’s brought thousands of adventurous travellers to the Marquesas Islands over the past 30-plus years,the Aranui, now offers trips to other far-flung destinations including French Polynesia’s Austral, Gambier and Tuamotu Archipelagos as well as the Cook Islands and Pitcairn Island. The newest in a long line of vessels,the Aranui V has a maximum occupancy of 230 passengers and is managed by an entirely Polynesian crew. There’s usually a guest lecturer and tour guide on board such as an archaeologist or cultural specialist who will help you delve deeper into the local cultures. Expect to sway your hips to a live Polynesian band in the evenings and swim in the pool during days at sea. You’ll visit at least one very remote island that can…

THE CLASSIC, CROWD FREE... 5-DAY INCA TRAIL Length: 5 days Difficulty: Moderate For many, the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is a Peru must-do. Most complete the route in four days, which means a pre-dawn start to reach the trailhead, queuing with almost 500 others (the maximum daily allowance) to get permits checked, and then jostling with them on the trail and at the same busy campsites. But allow yourself five days and this over-peopled path becomes a potentially quieter prospect as you’re out of sync with the masses. On the first day you can set off later, after the crowds have raced ahead.You sleep at the lesser-frequented camps most four-dayers have charged past.You hit the trail’s breath-stealing high-point – 4,215m Dead Woman’s Pass – on day three rather…

FINLAND Finland has one of the largest bear populations in Europe, estimated at around 2,000. Several companies offer bear-watching trips in the Lakeland area between April and September. Overnight stays in hides are on offer, eg at Martinselkonen Nature Reserve and at Boreal Wildlife Centre, while at the Bear Centre in Vartius you can stay in individual ‘luxury’ viewing cabins overnight. Perfect for photographers, there is a very high chance of seeing bears on your visit, and you may be lucky enough to see elusive wolverines or even wolves. visitfinland.com SLOVAKIA Slovakia has over 1,200 bears, most of them in the Tatras Mountains, the north-westernmost stretch of the Carpathians. Keen and fit walkers can join a Walking with Bears in Slovakia trip from Walks Worldwide to try and catch a…

1 Stay in an eco-lodge The first step to sustainable travel? Book yourself into an eco-lodge, preferably one with a Certificate of Sustainable Tourism (CST). They exist in harmony with their surroundings and offer low-impact adventures galore. Near Corcovado National Park, Lapa Rios Lodge is surrounded by primary forest – which puts waterfall hikes, birdwatching safaris and whale-watching right on your doorstep. But the southeast has a wealth of award-winning accommodation: visitors to the Luna Lodge, Tiskita Jungle Lodge, Playa Cativo Lodge or Casa Corcovado Jungle Lodge – to name just a few – will find themselves enjoying the balance of comfort with lush wilderness; while you’re in the Golfo Dulce, Playa Nicuesa makes a fine base for kayaking, snorkelling and dolphin-watching. On the east coast, Selva Bananito Lodge…

1 Get a caffeine fix Since being to introduced to Costa Rica in the late 1700s, coffee has become one of Costa Rica’s top exports. By law, the country only grows 100% Arabica beans; Coffee grows in eight regions; among these, Tarrazú is thought to produce the highest quality beans, known for their strong aroma and vanilla, cocoa and caramel notes. There are many coffee experiences available around Costa Rica. One good option is La Montaña Tarrazú plantation. As well as sampling a cup of fresh Joe you can ask a coffee producer about the difference between washed coffee – when the cherry is removed before the bean is dried – and naturally processed coffee, when the fruit is removed after the drying process. Honey processed coffee is somewhere…

Anyone who visited Tselinograd in 1991, the year Kazakhstan became independent, and then asked a tour operator to take them back again 30 years later, would be in for a shock. They would wonder, not unreasonably, if the city they saw today – now called Nur-Sultan – was even in the same country; or if they had perhaps wandered onto the set of a futuristic sci-fi movie that happened to be being filmed in this remote section of the Eurasian steppe? There has been a small settlement in this part of north-eastern Kazakhstan since the 1830s. At first, it was called Akmola, meaning ‘white grave’ – probably referring to the burial place of a local holyman. In the mid 20th century, Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev made it a regional administrative…

The highlights: We visited Hwange National Park after a harsh drought. On one of our game drives, we came across a dehydrated newborn elephant calf struggling to get on its feet in the blazing sun. Our rangers diverted a little water to him and when we returned for sundowners we were elated to discover he’d made it! A small act of empathy we will always cherish. Must see: If you’re an ‘eleph-anatic’ put Hwange top of your bucket list! Not only is it home to all the Big Five, but if you book a lodge overlooking a waterhole you can watch the action from your bed or deck. Don’t be surprised if elephants gather enviously around your tent when they hear your shower running! Top tip: Temperatures can exceed 40°C…

KEEN ASTORIA Open-Toe (£85) or Closed-Toe (£90) The Astoria West women’s hybrid sandal’s been designed with sustainability, versatility and comfort in mind. It has a webbed upper containing recycled PET plastic bottles and treated with KEEN’s Eco Anti-Odour system. Water-repellent, it has Aquagrip outsoles to be worn anywhere from slippery trails to city streets. keenfootwear.com DAVY J Long Sleeve Winter Swim Top, £110 For use in open water, The Waste Collection is a capsule range of women’s swimwear made from a yarn of regenerated nylon from fishing nets and textile discards. The collection also includes swim shorts and a crop top as well as classic swimsuits. davyj.org PEOPLE4OCEAN 100% NATURAL SUN CARE SPF30 Sunscreen 200ml, £30 This Australian brand was developed by two marine biologists concerned over the damage that…

1 MOSAICS Watch artists restoring mosaics on a tour of Madaba Institute for Mosaics Art and Restoration, or observe artists creating new mosaics at Jordan Jewel nearby. Firas Abdullah says, “Jordan Jewel’s artisans create scenes by hand with colourful stones harvested from the wild.”To make a mosaic yourself, book a class at Mosaic House in Amman. mimarjordan.org; jordanjewel.com; mosaichouse.online 2 OSTRICH EGGS Byzantine-era mosaics often depict ostrich eggs, which were used to store water or as lanterns. Today, locals use needles to dot-paint farming scenes and ibex on them. Ashraf Barqawi, director of eco-tourism for The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN), says, “The RSCN trained artisans to dot designs on eggs at Azraq Wetland Reserve.Visitors can try in its workshop.” 3 KILIM RUGS These decorative and functional…

3 NAGAS Built from teak and rosewood borne by elephants across the Nam Khan River, Khamboua House (left) is an exquisite example of local Lao architecture, sitting pretty behind the frangipani blossom. Part of 3 Nagas – three buildings straddling the quiet main Luang Prabang street – it’s named for the naga, fabled water serpents, and the protectors of Laos. Built in 1903 by a royal mandarin, intimate Khamboua House overlooks a secret garden sloping towards the slow-flow river. Perfect for a hibiscus-infused tequila cocktail amid fragrant flowers.The team are also dedicated to keeping the local streets sweeter too: 3 Nagas staff join Trash Hero Laos collectors in picking up rubbish around the neighbourhood once a month. From £108pn; www.3-nagas.com SOFITEL LUANG PRABANG Cocooning guests amid lily ponds and flowered…

You launched a podcast last year – A Little Bit of Positive? Yeah, just like the rest of the planet! It’s with Giles Paley-Phillips, one of the kindest people I know.There are so many podcasts out there but we felt that you can’t have too many good news stories. It’s not too prescriptive or restricting in terms of our guests. One of the people in the upcoming series is a lady called Julia Baird from Australia who has written a beautiful book called Phosphorescence. Essentially, she is obsessed with bioluminescence, a bit like the same way I’m obsessed with moss. She’s an open water swimmer and the book is a journey of discovery and it’s all about how important nature is to us all. Another guest is Professor Myles Allen…

From Crusaders to pirates, everyone has always wanted a piece of Malta. It’s little wonder. Near-constant sunshine, crystalline seas and majestic, fortified cities speak to a long history and a vibrant present. Exploring its three islands is the perfect way to get back in the adventure travel spirit… Grab a taste of local life Maltese cuisine reflects its Mediterranean and Arabic roots, dished up in old taverns where fenek (rabbit) and braġjoli (beef olives) stews accompany a slew of pastas. Be sure to try Gozo’s famed gbejna cheese: creamy and mozzarella-like when fresh but just as often served peppered, dried then soaked in vinegar, affording a sharp tang dulled by olives, tomatoes and hunks of herby Gozitan sausage. You can also enjoy a taste of history at Malta’s museums. Taste…

Duration: 12-16 days Best for: History, adventure, art, traditional folklore, culture Route: Tahiti, Huahine, Raiatea, Hiva Oa, Nuku Hiva Why do it: To get in touch with the spiritual and physical past of the islands. Take a voyage through complex social hierarchies, hear local myths and legends and get a feel for French Polynesia’s ancient soul on a route via the country’s maraes (sacred sites) and museums. Start on Tahiti with a 4WD tour through Papenoo.This hard-to-access valley was once heavily populated, and is home to two beautifully restored archaeological sites: Marae Farehape and Marae Anapua. Guides will help bring the old stone foundations, archery court and irrigation systems to life.You’ll also visit the country’s only lake and take in glorious mountain scenery. The stone platforms of Marae Maeva on…

The smaller, southern loop of Tahiti’s figure eight shape is called Tahiti Iti, meaning ‘Little Tahiti’. This is one of the most alluring parts of the island, half of which can only be accessed by boat or on foot. Drive to Teahupoo, a traditional village on the south-west coast known for its world-class surfing. Here you can charter a boat, some owned by local fishermen, to take you out to watch surfers tackle the giant wave, or for a full day trip to the wild Fenua Aihere (bush country) and Te Pari, a remote cliff area. On this day trip expect to explore caves, duck into waterfalls tumbling into the sea, visit remote archaeological sites and swim in natural swimming pools. For a second day outing you can drive to…

Vital statistics Capital: Lima Population: 32 million Language: Spanish, Quechua, Aymara Time: GMT-5 International dialling code: +51 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Peruvian Nuevo sol (S/), currently around S/5 to the UK£. When to go Jan-Feb Rainy season. Trekking not advised. The Inca Trail’s closed in Feb. March Still damp but clearing. Some weather disruption possible but landscapes lush and trails quiet. April-Oct Dry season; clearest skies, coolest temperatures and the trails’ busiest time. Note, Inca trail permits go on sale in October for the following year; permits for May usually sell out within a week, June and July fill quickly after that. Nov-Dec: Warmer but wetter; trails quieter. Health & safety For the latest advice on entry requirements, including information regarding COVID-19, visit the FCDO site (www.gov.uk).…

My eyes ached. I lowered my binoculars to blink back some life into them then resumed the vigil.Wildlife watching, I reflected, sometimes involves staring for a very long time at nothing while hoping, in vain, for something. But with expert guide Fernando Ballesteros beside me doing the same, I was determined not to be caught napping. The ‘nothing’ I was scrutinising was, to be fair, the glorious dawn vista of northern Spain’s Cantabrian mountains, and the ‘something’ for which we were combing the rugged slopes was a wild brown bear. Our odds on a sighting were hard to gauge. Here, in Fuentes del Narcea Natural Park, we were deep in bear country and the roadside mirador is a renowned viewing spot. Furthermore, this was peak time: early autumn generally brings…

1 Go wild in the jungle The undeniable star of Costa Rica’s jungles are sloths. They may be slow moving, but that doesn’t make them any easier to see. These smiling creatures live all over Costa Rica, one of the few countries that have both the two- and three-toed species. Other cute, common mammals you’re likely to see in the jungles of Costa Rica are tapir, peccary and coati – a racoon-like animal the size of a large cat. They’re most often spotted around Arenal and Monteverde. Look out for iguana in the Osa Peninsula, Arenal Volcano and Tortuguero National Park and don’t miss Jesus Christ lizards walking on water at Cahuita National Park. Bigger reptiles can be seen in the jungle rivers, swamps and lagoons, which you can…

1 Yoga Yogis should head to the northeastern Nosara region, famous for its wellness retreats. With its long stretches of golden sands and expanses of forests, you’ll soon see why it is so easy to relax here. At Nosara’s Harmony Hotel, guests can combine morning yoga sessions with soothing surf lessons on the waves that lap Guiones Beach. Cala Luna in Guanacaste is surrounded by greenery; the hotel offers yoga classes as well as sound therapy, reiki and other holistic treatments to soothe both body and mind. The boutique Lagarta Lodge meanwhile sits in a privately owned biological reserve. Over on Costa Rica’s Caribbean side, Samasati Yoga and Wellness Retreat offers swaying hammocks, surfing and yoga in the laidback coastal town of Puerto Viejo. With meditation classes, yoga and…

1 Ancient Knossos Knossos is steeped in mystery. In legend it was the seat of King Minos, beneath whose palace the bull-headed Minotaur hunted its victims in the labyrinth built by Daedalus. In reality it was the hub of a Bronze Age empire that held sway over the Aegean more than 4,000 years ago. An impressive relic of the ancient Mediterranean world, the Minoan palace was excavated and imaginatively reconstructed in the early 1900s. 2 Irakleio (Heraklion) A good place to see a slice of everyday Greek life, Crete’s capital is an eclectic mix of medieval buildings, bustling markets and modern streets. The huge fortress still guards the harbour where the galleys of the Serene Republic of Venice once moored. The centuries-old Agios Titos church and ornate Morosini…

It’s easy to see why Styria is eulogised as the ‘Green Heart’ of landlocked Austria.The state is almost 60% tree-cloaked and home to one national park – Gesäuse – and seven nature parks. Hiking is the traditional way of exploring, and there are options to suit all, from testing routes among high peaks that top out at 2,995m to long-distance forays, lovely lake loops and low-level walks for more amateur amblers. Myriad other summer pursuits are possible, including superb mountain-biking, plus you can ski year-round. Styria is also a world-class wine region – the vine-cloaked slopes of the south have been dubbed ‘Styrian Tuscany’. After a day spent drinking in the region’s great outdoors, drink in its fine welschrieslings, traminers and sauvignon blancs. People here love their food, too –…

Countryside Schladming A hiking oasis in the Dachstein Mountains, home to Styria’s highest peak and over 900km of bike routes. Ride a gondola up to the Dachstein Glacier to get close to the ice. www.schladming-dachstein.at Admont Abbey This Benedictine Abbey has an eye-catching Baroque design and the largest abbey library in the world. It sits on the border of Gesäuse, Austria’s newest national park. www.stiftadmont.at Mariazell Basilica Compelling ecclesiastic hub that’s long been drawing pilgrims; handy for hiking too, given its mountainous location. www.basilika-mariazell.at Stainz Castle Arguably Styria’s finest schloss, Stainz presides over a landscape of vineyards and orchards. There’s a fascinating museum dedicated to hunting and agriculture inside. www.museum-joanneum.at Klimazukunft-Wegs This new 9km hiking circuit winds gently through lush Pöllauer Valley Nature Park, with info stations addressing climate change…

Deeply rooted in tradition and flavoured by a respect for locally sourced ingredients, Hawaiian cuisine combines rich comfort food with a cultural heritage that dates back a millennia, to when Polynesian settlers first set foot on Hawaii’s volcanic islands.They brought along crops from their homelands in canoes, including many of the local ingredients that visitors to the islands will still find in use today, such as taro and sweet potato. Already highly skilled farmers and fishermen, the first Hawaiians lived in small communities along the island coastlines where they could take advantage of the rich growing soil and seafood available to them.This reliance on locally-sourced ingredients helped set the stage for Hawaii’s culinary traditions today. However, in the 1850s, the sugar plantation industry began to attract workers from countries outside…

We all look forward to travelling again but, even as restrictions lift, we need to understand the precautions that still need to be taken. Probably the most important is proper mask use. In the UK we are only told to wear a face covering yet although a thin silk scarf, buff, snood or a jumper pulled up over the face might catch some droplets if you cough, try blowing a match out through it to see how ineffective these are. Increasingly too, these are not accepted by airlines even for journeys within the UK. Many people wear disposable medical masks. These are protective but some airlines stipulate that they should be changed every four hours; however, using such plastic-containing products that need to be discarded often are not a choice…

With great locations, you don’t need to over-do it.Two fine new films are available to stream that don’t sugarcoat the raw beauty of where they’ve been shot. Nomadland [from 30 April; streaming on Disney+ Star] follows Frances McDormand’s grieving Fern, who sets off from her economically devastated Nevada hometown and onto the road to join the (real) communities of campervan nomads, drifting around America’s under-appreciated middle. Set mostly in the plains of Nebraska and South Dakota – Badlands National Park looks sweepingly vast – this very human story gently unfolds among the starkly otherworldly landscapes. Also getting its due this month is the Jurassic Coast. Lyme Regis is the setting for Ammonite [out now; streaming rental], which tells the story of 19th Century proto-paleontologist Mary Anning (Kate Winslet), struggling for…

Like a rehabilitated Captain Ahab, Daniel Zitterbart led his scientists into the sort of supra-natural stillness only Antarctica can deliver. I followed them in an inflatable Zodiac, cold snapping at my fingers, squinting at glossy icebergs fissured with stilton-blue veins, heading towards the spouts of vapour we could see suspended in Paradise Harbour’s frigid dawn. There she blows, as Captain Ahab would say. Next to brash ice that glinted like rough-cut diamonds, two distant dark lines revealed themselves to be slumbering humpback whales, fat from gorging krill. Forty tonnes of rorqual, happily recovering since the 1986 ban on commercial whaling, before which they were slaughtered to near extinction by Ahab’s ilk. There was no harpoon in Daniel’s hand, just a hi-tech $10,000 whale tag on a long carbon-fibre pole. His…

1 Arizona adventure hub puts residents first USA The small city of Sedona, which sits amid Arizona’s spectacular buttes, canyons and pine forests, had the classic problem of many similar tourism gateways: horrendous over-crowding during peak season. But since 2019, it has worked with the Global Sustainable Tourism Council to establish how residents and visitors can co-exist. The plan includes no-fly zones over residential areas for helicopter tours, improving walking-and-cycling routes and traffic flow, and better public transport. It also features the Sedona Cares Pledge, which asks tourists to be mindful of their noise, leave no trace, minimise water use and be caring and considerate at all times. visitsedona.com/sustainable-tourism-plan 2 Okanagan goes organic CANADA The laidback Okanagan Valley is often overlooked in favour of British Columbia’s showier headline…

I jumped off our small skiff into the sapphire ocean outside of the pass into Ahe Atoll. Immediately, through my mask, I spotted a school of jacks, their bodies glistening silver and gold in the surface-filtered light, their electric-blue edges making them look more of sea than in it. In a moment, the jacks were far behind.The current propelled me and my three fellow snorkellers towards the lagoon so fast it felt like a carnival ride.The water was glass-clear, so I could see straight to the bottom – at least 20m down – where two whitetip reef sharks cruised over canyons of coral reef that spread like octopus tentacles towards the navy depths of the atoll’s edge.We were now in the pass, with coral cliffs rearing on either side of…

“That night, we watched the moon rise behind the mountains and the stars flick on, then we laid in our tents as Pachamama’s exhalations shook the world outside” A precise-cut block – neat corners, straight edges – sat in the middle of the shallow stream. It had, I imagined, spent centuries slow-tumbling from the ruins further up the canyon, inching past sheer, tight cliffs and hand-hewn terraces, past the lupins and wild potato plants. And it had come to rest, for now, on the water-bed: the perfect stepping stone. I hopped on it, then across, this historic bit of rubble helping me follow the original Inca trail through Leon Punku (Lion’s Mouth) ravine. Once, the entourage of Inca ruler Viracocha would have processed this way, en route to his estate…

The author travelled to Spain on a three-night trip with the European Nature Trust. Steppes Travel (01285 880980; steppestravel.com) offers a tailor-made eight-day On The Trail of Bears in Northern Spain trip from £1,995pp (based on a group of six travelling together), including accommodation, all meals, transport, the services of expert guides and a donation to TENT’s project in Cantabria; it excludes international flights or ferry. WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS • Cantabrian Brown Bears: Tracking the Wilderness documentary – www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMyCfRsR1Mw • The European Nature Trust on YouTube – www.youtube.com/ user/TENTEurope/videos • Re-introducing wolves in Yellowstone – Wanderlust no. 200 Vital statistics Regional capitals: Oviedo (Asturias), Santander (Cantabria) Regional population: Around 1.6 million (Asturias and Cantabria) Language: Spanish Time: GMT+1 (summer GMT+2) International dialling code: +34 Money: Euro (€), currently €1.16…

1 Conquer the rapids Costa Rica’s rivers swell during rainy season, so the best time to raft is from May to October. Rivers are graded; slow currents are classed as one or two, while six is the most challenging. Nervous? Then avoid ones with names like The Terminator (on Sarapiquí) or El Abismo (on Reventazón). Novices might want to try Peñas Blancas or Balsa, where you may spot herons, sloths and monkeys. If you want to shake things up, opt for Savegre, which has calmer spots interspersed with rapids. Alternatively, paddle hell for leather on Río Toro, which is class two to four. Save Pacuare for last, as it’s voted among the world’s best rivers for white-water rafting. You can snake along its 108km length from the Talamanca mountains…

Best for ADVENTURE Luxury Adventures in Costa Rica Journey Latin America Rafting the Pacuare river, gazing at the puffing Póas Volcano, canyoning, thermal pool dipping and wildlife watching: during this eight-day adventure with Journey Latin America, your feet will hardly touch the ground. The exhilarating days are bound to leave your heart racing and your muscles aching, so you’ll be glad of the luxury lodges this tour offers, where you can relax while being surrounded by jungle. Rainforests, Rivers and Rapids Trailfinders This two-week tour with Trailfinders will see you enjoy adventures on land, on water and even in the air. Hike through thick forests by day and, by night, join monkeys and other wildlife up in the canopy on a walk across hanging bridges and hold on tight…

Best for: Luxury and wellness Audley Travel has specialists who have travelled extensively around Costa Rica and their expert local knowledge is invaluable when it comes to planning your bespoke tour. Audley Travel has designed a number of itinerary ideas to inspire you and they can blend these with your own unique interests to tailor-make the perfect Costa Rica adventure for you. Audley Travel are also on hand to help you while you are in Costa Rica, as their knowledgeable guides will assist you in getting around the country, understanding the culture and getting the most out of your time here. Tour operator: Audley Travel Visit: audleytravel.com/costa-rica Phone: 01993 683115 Best for: Luxury & wellness With first-hand experience, a passionate team and over 30 years of experience, Elegant…

If someone asked you which country has the most pyramids, you’d immediately know the answer, right? A big pat on the back if you said Sudan. However, even armed with that knowledge, it’s still a jolt when you’re driving the highway north-east of Khartoum and you see the pyramids of Meroe start to appear on the horizon. Rising from the desert like jagged molars, due to their various states of disrepair, they elicit the same spine-tingling awe you feel spotting Stonehenge from the A303. “They elicit the same spine-tingling awe you feel spotting Stonehenge” This area of northern Sudan was once home to the ancient civilisation of Kush, a powerful trading culture that had strong links – and deep rivalries – with the pharaohs of Egypt to the north. For…

Montevideo may be less glam than Buenos Aires but it has some advantages over its rival. For one thing, its centre is small, walkable and encircled by the River Plate – sea breezes keep the city airy, and you can walk to La Rambla promenade in a matter of minutes. Founded in 1726, the Uruguayan capital honours national hero, José Artigas, on the expansive Plaza Independencia.The history of this small country, has largely been about constructing its own identity. Uruguay remains a largely agricultural country and Montevideo is its only major city, home to more than a third of the population.The best galleries, museums, theatres and music scene – including a lively tango circuit – are all here. Liberal laws and a mini-construction boom have generated headlines, but Montevideo stands…

Luxury Grand Hôtel Wiesler This art nouveau grand dame is the most glamorous address in Graz. Rooms are stripped-back stylish, and period art and furnishings abound. It has a great central location too, right by the river. www.grandhotelwiesler.com Thermenresort Loipersdorf This relaxing spa resort, a one-hour drive east of Graz, has an array of hotels, spas, wellness centres, water parks and thermal pools, set within forested hills. www.loipersdorf.at; www.therme.at/en Mid-range Kai 36 This cool Graz retreat, housed within sturdy 400-year-old walls, is tucked between Schlossberg and the Mur River. It has 21 chic rooms; hardwoods, natural stone and artistic flourishes abound. It has terraces and an outdoor pool too. www.kai36.at Budget Aiola Living This new boutique spot in the centre of Graz’s Old Town is not your average budget bolthole.…