Indholdsfortegnelse for June/July 2023 i Wanderlust

1 Settle into a good sleep routine from the day you arrive – avoid naps and set a regular bedtime and wake-uptime. 2 Get some sunlight early in the day to help reset your inner body clock. 3 Take it easy in the evening – wind down from exercise or strenuous activity and resist the temptation to binge-watch your favourite shows. 4 Give yourself enough time to sleep – experts recommend seven to nine hours. If you have an early-morning safari drive or a busy day planned, be sure to set yourself a sensible bedtime. 5 Avoid using your phone, tablet or laptop in the hour before bed – these emit blue light, which can suppress melatonin levels. 6 Embrace calming practices such as reading, meditation, having a bath or…

IN ASSOCIATION WITH Readers get 10% off by using the code Wandering’ ► on the Stanfords website; www.stanfords.co.uk. Wanderlust members can get 25% off-see p54 Glowing Still by Sara Wheeler Abacus; £22 Fancy a life of adventure? When Sara Wheeler started out, she had few female travel writers to emulate and little experience of a world outside her small family circle, so had to develop her own style. It's one that shines bright in this new book on growing with every trip that you take. Wounded Tigris by Leon McCarron Corsair; £20 In 2021, adventurer Leon McCarron travelled by boat along the length of the Tigris, meeting those along its banks who rely on the river – farmers, artists, activists. Along the way, he saw first-hand the damage of climate…

1 NYONYA KEBAYA The sarong kebaya is the traditional garb of Peranakan women and comes in a two-piece ensemble: a long skirt wrapped around the waist (sarong) and a long-sleeved blouse (kebaya). It combines Indonesian, Arabic and Chinese elements, which is fitting given Singapore's cultural history. Shophouse Rumah Kim Choo (kimchoo.com) is home to one of the city's last remaining kebaya designers, where you'll be able to commission a bespoke piece all of your own. 2 PERANAKAN BEADWORK Peranakan beadwork often depicts animals; myths and flowers. Such is the precision required, it was said to be the ultimate test of a girl's patience and attention to detail – qualities matchmakers once cherished in arranging marriages. You won't find great Peranakan beadwork just anywhere, and prices differ based on the type of bead…

Reducing emissions is currently at the centre of the conversation surrounding sustainable travel and rightly so. According to a 2018 report by the International Council on Clean Transportation, commercial aviation contributes to around 2.4% of global carbon dioxide emissions, while a study published in the journal Atmospheric Environment found it responsible for 3.5% of all drivers of global warming. This might sound small in comparison to the contributions of other industries; however, with only an estimated 11 % of the world's population flying, and far less flying regularly, the individual carbon footprint of a traveller is especially heavy. According to the latest Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report, if we continue on our current trajectory, we are likely to surpass the forewarned 1.5°C temperature rise above preindustrial levels as early…

Durban is home to the largest community of ethnic Indians outside India, and it shows in the city's food. Everything in Durban is a little spicier and the curries are, not surprisingly, excellent. But the most iconic Durban dish is bunny chow, a half-loaf of white bread that's been hollowed out and stuffed with a hearty filling of your choosing the spicier the better. WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS Errieda Du Toit's Share: A Century of South African Community Recipes (Struik Lifestyle; £10) is a great resource for home cooks wanting to delve into the history of South African food.…

Location: New direct flights with Loganair (loganair.co.uk) go from London City Airport, via Dundee, to Kirkwall on Orkney's mainland. The route take 3.5 hours and costs from £124 return. It augments existing flights from Edinburgh and Glasgow. By sea, Northlink Ferries (northlinkferries.co.uk) connects Kirkwall to Aberdeen, taking six hours; a shorter service goes from Scrabster to Stromness (90 minutes). The quickest crossing is between Gills Bay and St Margaret's Hope (75 minutes), which is operated by Pentland Ferries (pentlandferries.co.uk). Getting around: Orkney's mainland is fairly flat, with two wheels ideal for travelling between the Neolithic sites. Kirkwall's Cycle Orkney rent bicycles from £25 a day (cycleorkney.com). Accommodation: The 19th-century Kirkwall Hotel (kirkwallhotel.com; doubles from £129pn) has great views over Orkney's harbour. Out of town, The Foveran (thefoveran.com; from £145pn) is…

CLIMB Mount Triglav and proclaim yourself a Slovene. It is an unwritten law that all Slovenes are expected to do it at least once in their lifetime. Triglav is challenging but very accessible, and there are several popular approaches. If you are fit and have a good head for heights, hire a guide and go for it. RAFT on the emeraldhued waters of the Soča River. It's a 90-minute, never-forgotten whitewater thriller with rapids of class three and above. For something a bit gentler, opt for an easy and slow float down the Sava Dolinka River. Multiple agencies in Bled and Bovec offer different packages. LEARN about Kobarid's pivotal role on the Soča Front (Isonzo in Italian) during the First World War by hiking a section of the long-distance Walk…

ARCHITECTURE FESTIVAL ‘Life form’ is the theme of the 2023 Copenhagen Architecture Festival (1-11 June), with exhibitions, film screenings and discussions exploring life in the context of urban environments. Highlights include an offshoot of Denmark's pavilion exhibition at the Venice Biennale, cafx.dk ARCHITECTURE RUN Runners both professional and amateur will be lacing up their trainers for the DAC Architecture Run. Held on 2 July and 24 September, the race leads down city alleys, up staircases and through some of Copenhagen's most fascinating buildings, including venues usually closed to the public, dac.dk IB ANTONI EXHIBITION The Museum of Copenhagen pays homage to the Danish artist lb Antoni, creator of the iconic ‘Wonderful Copenhagen’ tourism posters. On show until 31 October, the exhibition includes his works as well as previously unexhibited original…

IT'S EASY BEING GREEN I very much enjoyed reading your first Wanderlust Travel Green List [April/May, issue 226], The amount of research that clearly went into the article was evident. When I travel, I always try to find authentic, off-thebeaten-track trips that operate on a local level, and the Travel Green List provided me with a great many more suggestions. In fact, I had no idea how many small businesses all over the world put such massive efforts into supporting local communities, funnelling money back into conservation, education and so much more. It really gave me hope that a more responsible and greener way of travelling is possible. From now on, I will look out for the people, places and businesses that do exactly these things. It's definitely the way…

Get your glitter on because 2023's Pride celebrations will once again be bringing music, dancing and street parties to cities around the world this summer. The official month of Pride for the queer community is June, but the festivities extend far beyond that. Sydney WorldPride 2023 got things started in February, while the London Pride parade takes place on July 1. Other major Pride parades include San Francisco (June 25), Madrid (July 1) and Berlin (July 22). Here are six queer-friendly destinations to visit around the world ICELAND Both safe and beautiful, this Nordic island is a great spot for queer couples and families, who can be themselves when exploring black-sand beaches and Martian-like national parks riddled with geysers. The tiny capital of Reykjavik does have a couple of gay…

STEAMING THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS Scotland's West Highland Railway line has captured the imagination of visitors for over a century. It has even gained a new generation of followers thanks to the appearance of the 19th-century Glenfinnan Viaduct in the Harry Potter films. But there's no wizardry here; just a serene, untouched wilderness. McKinlay Kidd's Slowly Along the West Highland Line trip affords the time to soak it all in as you inch the tracks between Glasgow and Oban on the Scottish west coast, before taking boat trips to the Hebridean Islands and the Knoydart peninsula – one of the UK's remotest and quietest spots. A private tour of the Isle of Skye completes the experience. McKirtlay Kidd (mckinlaykidd.com). Year-round (best AprOct); nine nights from £1,745pp, including ferry travel. WILDLIFE AND…

If you enjoyed this issue's Azerbaijan feature or the Algeria article that we ran last time around, then we have a treat for you. Dive deeper into these stories and discover more from their respective authors, Mark Elliott and Mark Stratton, by tuning into the spring season of the Wanderlust podcast Off the Page. Other highlights include writers talking about the USA's Pacific Northwest, road-tripping around Louisiana and discovering Croatia off the beaten track. Available from the Wanderlust website and the usual podcast platforms.…

Batik prints Singapore's trading history soon led to its adoption of the Javanese dyeing technique of batik – using dye-resistant wax to create patterns and shapes. Wellie Batik (welliebatik.com) remains one of the bestloved shops in town for handcrafted shirts, dresses, and even placemats. Cheongsam While a cheongsam (fitted silk dress) may look simple, it requires a high level of skill to create the right kind of symmetry. For a fresh take on the style, drop by Studio HHFZ in the Waterloo Centre, which gives them a modern twist. Porcelain The blue-and-white style of porcelain arrived in Singapore during the mass migration of Chinese people in the 19th century. Find plenty at Supermama (supermamastore.com), whose Singapore Icons collection is very popular. Orchid jewellery Singapore's national flower is an orchid hybrid…

Setting the standard A new set of standards, published in May by the Integrity Council for the Voluntary Carbon Market (ICVCM), now asks carbon-credit certifiers to demonstrate how credits are used to genuinely reduce emissions. The move aims to help consumers identify legitimate offset schemes. Overland to Berlin Europe's newest European Sleeper service means travellers can now go from London to Berlin in 16 hours by rail. Eurostar passengers can connect to the overnight service in Brussels, Belgium, and will reach Berlin early the following morning (see p132). europeansleeper.eu/en Keeping the oceans clean Diving association PADI is encouraging travellers to seek out dive ‘Eco Centres’, an accreditation it is awarding to outfits that can provide proof of ongoing, measurable conservation activity, from running citizen science initiatives and beach clean-ups to…

Copenhagen's most iconic hotel has an origin story akin to a fairy tale. In 1755, Jean Marchal, a young French servant to the Danish Court, fell for Maria Coppy, daughter of the royal chef. In addition to their passion for each other, they also shared a love of the culinary arts, so with the King's blessing, they established a restaurant that would eventually evolve into the hotel d'Angleterre we know today. The building has expanded significantly since then, with its current iteration designed in the 1870s by the celebrated Historicist architect Jens Vilhelm Dahlerup (for his other Copenhagen landmarks, see page 212). What remains unchanged is the d'Angleterre's prime location on Kongens Nytorv Square, overlooking the ornate Danish Royal Theatre and the city's iconic Nyhavn waterfront. Beyond the location, a…

Join the rhythm at Junkanoo If you're lucky enough to be in Nassau this year on Independence Day (10 July), don't miss what promises to be the highlight of the celebrations: the 50th Independence People's Rush, aka Junkanoo. Alternatively, catch the usual Junkanoo festivities on Boxing Day or New Year's Day, or visit Nassau's Educulture Junkanoo Museum for an insight into the festival's past and present at any time. celebrate-bahamas.com Unravel Nassau's history The capital of the Bahamas dates back to around 1670 and has enjoyed a lively past as a privateering port, a pirate stronghold and a seat of government. It's packed with landmark sites, including the city's Public Library and Museum, which was founded in 1837; the rose-pink Government House; the Queen's Staircase, which was created as an…

Iberá Wetlands The Rewilding Argentina story began in 1997, when Doug Tompkins (the founder of adventure clothing company North Face) purchased tens of thousands of hectares of nature-depleted swampland in north-eastern Argentina. The Iberá Wetlands, home to bogs, lakes and lagoons, is South America's second-largest wetland ecosystem. It is here that Rewilding Argentina has successfully reintroduced a vast number of large mammals that went extinct. Visit today and you'll see giant anteaters, giant otters, tapirs, capybaras, and perhaps even the elusive jaguar. Patagonia Azul Travel to the coast of Chubut Province and you can experience a unique rewilding project protecting one of Argentina's largest biosphere reserves. Millions of hectares of coastal land, islands and sea, home to penguins, whales, dolphins, guanacos, armadillos and much more, await you along the ‘Blue…

Deep-dish pizza by the slice in Chicago, cream cheese-slathered bagels and lox in New York, Southern soul food in Memphis and hipster poke bowls in Hawaii – these icons of Americana are every bit as recognisable as the Grand Canyon or the Statue of Liberty. Yet behind every well-known dish that is famous the world over, there are dozens more that only in-the-know local residents can recommend. That's why we've gone to the true experts in eating American-style from chefs, farmers and fishermen to winemakers, historians, cookbook writers, tour guides and more – to tell us the stories that lie behind these foodie favourites and find out which dishes deserve to be better known. There's more than just food on the table too, as we delve into the country's history,…

Rising up towards the remote border regions that buffer Vietnam and Laos, the mountainous provinces of Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri have long been a world apart from the rice paddies and sugar palms that define the rest of Cambodia. However, it is a difference that goes far beyond just geography. The region is home to cultures who inhabit distinctive dwellings that mark their territory, and who elevate animism and spirit worship above Buddhism. Known as the ‘Khmer Loeu’ (Upper Khmer), these peoples were exploited as slaves and soldiers for a long time by the dominant ethnicities in the region – the Khmer, Vietnamese and Thai. It is a history which means that, even today, they are often still looked down on by many urban Cambodians. Mondulkiri translates as ‘the meeting of…

Getting there Both SAS (flysas.com) and British Airways (ba.com) fly daily from London Heathrow to Copenhagen. Low-cost airlines Norwegian (norwegian.com) and easyJet (easyjet.com) fly from Gatwick, while budget carrier Ryanair (ryanair.com) goes from Stansted. Tickets cost from £33 return; flights take around two hours. Carbon calculator A return flight from London to Copenhagen produces around 221kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, see p56. Tried and tested For a deeper dive into one of Copenhagen's most design-focused stays, see our review of Hotel D'Angleterre on p63. Online resources Visit Copenhagen (visitcopenhagen.com) is a font of inspiration. Before arriving, download the free Rejseplanen app (iOS/Android), a handy journey planner that is popular with locals…

For somewhere as fabled as the ‘birthplace of British tourism’, the narrow, steep lane leading to SymondsYat's waterfront was remarkably quiet. In fact, it almost felt like a dead end until I turned a tight comer and there was the River Wye, spread out beforenme in all its glory. Over two centuries ago, this 210km-long river hosted the UK's very first organised tour: a pleasure cruise from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow that featured pit stops at quaint waterside inns, crumbling medieval ruins and various dramatic viewpoints. I imagine that embarking on that same cruise today would yield a remarkably similar experience, as very litde about the landscape has changed in the years since. Perhaps the only exceptions are the canoeists, kayakers and paddleboarders who now flock to the Wye to enjoy…

DETOUR to Hay-onWye. While technically outside of the Wye Valley AONB, the town is a mustvisit for book lovers. As well as its prestigious literary festival (hayfestival.com) in late May/early June, it is littered with independent bookshops selling rare editions and crowdpleasing bestsellers alike. HIKE some of the Wye Valley Trail (wyevalleywalk.org). The entire route is 219km long, running from Hafren Forest in mid-Wales to Chepstow Castle on the Welsh border. For a taster, stroll the route between Tintern and Bigsweir Bridge, or perhaps tackle the Symonds Yat-to-Kerne Bridge section. The latter edges past the Courtfield estate, which was the childhood home of Flenry V. SAVOUR a local delicacy at the Museum of Cider (cidermuseum.co.uk). Housed in Bulmer's original 19th-century factory in Hereford, its displays provide a potted history of…

Considered to be the oldest hotel in the Dutch capital, the 16th-century Tivoli Doelen Amsterdam (pictured) is a newly rebranded 81-room property perched invitingly beside the Amstel Canal. This heritage building was the original home of Rembrandt van Rijn's The Night Watch painting – which can be seen undergoing restoration at the Rijksmuseum. Treat yourself to a stay in the room (now a suite) where it was first hung, tivolihotels.com A 1930s Bauhaus-style building in the centre of Tel Aviv has been lovingly restored and reopened as a boutique hotel. R48, located on the iconic Rothschild Boulevard, is an 11-suite stay complete with an intimate rooftop pool, high-end restaurant and Mediterranean garden that offers a refreshingly lush escape from the city bustle, r48.co.il Palacio Can Marqués is one of Palma de…

The fully updated new edition of Galapagos Wildlife (Bradt; £18.99) by David Horwell and Peter Oxford is an essential companion for anyone visiting one of the world's greatest nature destinations. Similarly, the Wild Guide series also gives inspirational ideas for nature-based experiences. The new Wild Guide Greece (Wild Things Publishing; £18.99) features over 600 ‘adventures’ to help you discover secret beaches, cliff-side monasteries, plunging ravines and submerged ancient ruins.…

The Wanderlust Club has a great range of exclusive offers, competitions and events for our members – here are just a few. Already a member? Head to wanderlustmagazine.com/your-wanderlust to find out more. 25% OFF! Purchases on the Stanfords website Stanfords, the UK's leading specialist retailer of maps, travel books and accessories, has been beloved by explorers and keen travellers since 1853. Members can get 25% off all purchases of the books featured in ‘Read This’ (p51) and 15% off any other purchases from the Stanfords website. WIN! A copy of Traveller's Cookbook South America If you're missing your favourite dishes from your South American travels, this is the book for you. Whether you're craving locro de papa from Ecuador, lomo saltado from Peru, or Brazil's moqueca baiana, there are recipes…

Getting there: British Airways (britishairways.com) has daily direct flights to Nassau from London Heathrow from £711, taking around 9.5 hours. Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com) flies the same route two days per week (increasing to three days from October) from £755. Getting around the islands: Nassau-Grand Bahama: BahamasAir (bahamasair.com) has daily outbound and inbound flights from £205pp return. There is one outbound and one inbound ferry (bahamasferries.com) per week from £240.50pp return. Nassau-Cat Island: Western Air (westernairbahamas.com) operates outbound and inbound flights five days per week (Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday) from £205pp. Cat Island Experience: Danson King's taxi and tours company (catislandexperience.com) is highly recommended. Where to stay: Warm and friendly Rollezz Villas (rollezz.com) is the best place to stay on Cat Island and has a lot of repeat customers; prices…

Gatting there: The Portal Cañadón Pinturas is the main gateway to the new hiking trails and campsites within Patagonia Park, which lies off Ruta 40 in the north-west of Argentina's Santa Cruz Province. It's best visited on a road trip, although there is a bus station at Perito Moreno, a 45-minute drive north. The nearest airport is a six-hour drive away at Comodoro Rivadavia. Activities: There are ten waymarked hiking trails, varying in length from 2.6km to 18km, that lead through and around the Pinturas River Canyon. There are guided tours of archaeological sites, including Cueva de las Manos, puma-tracking tours with Facundo Epul and many more outdoor activities, such as horse riding, camping and 4WD safaris. Accommodation: Campsites can be booked in advance by emailing Patagonia Park's Visitor Centre…

International dialling code: +386 Currency: Euro (€) Getting there: British Airways (Heathrow; ba.com), easyJet (Gatwick; easyjet.com) and Wizz Air (Luton; wizzair.com) all fly regularly from London to Ljubljana's Jože Pučnik Airport. Flights cost from around £60 return and take 2.5 hours. Getting around: While it is possible to reach many of the destinations mentioned here by bus, and even by train, driving is the best way to explore the Julian Alps region. Car hire is available at Ljubljana airport. Weather: Every season has its appeal in the Julian Alps. Spring and autumn are best for hiking and climbing; summer for swimming and cycling; and winter for skiing and snowboarding. Further information: slovenia.info…