Indholdsfortegnelse for August/September 2023 i Wanderlust

Your new series. Exploring India's Treasures with Bettany Hughes, is very different to your last one. How did it come about? We were asked to do it by [commissioning editor] Shaminder Nahal at Channel 4, who is as passionate about India as I am; I've been travelling there for decades. She said India cannot be contained in a single hour, so let's have something more narrative-based and regional. We've done North and South India in this series; the hope is we'll do East andWest next. It's got ‘Exploring’ in the title, and the idea was to cover some of the household names but try to do them in an unexpected way. With the Taj Mahal, we started in its gardens, because when people think of the gardens they think of…

25% OFF! Purchases on the Stanfords website Stanfords, the UK's leading specialist retailer of maps, travel books and accessories, has been beloved by explorers and keen travellers since 1853. Members can get 25% off all purchases of the books featured in ‘Read This’ (see p33), and 15% off any other purchases from the Stanfords website. A copy of Wanderlust: How to Travel Solo Whether you're a seasoned traveller or a tentative newbie, if you've been inspired by our ‘How to Travel Solo’ guide (see p138) and want more advice, this is the book for you. Featuring 100 tips from Wanderlust co-founder Lyn Hughes, it covers everything from the benefits of going solo through to advice on preparation, packing, planning and getting the most out of your trip. A copy of DK Eyewitness:…

1 Book locally owned accommodation and avoid big chains and all-inclusive resorts that filter revenue away from the community. 2 Eat at local restaurants and shop at local stores to help community businesses prosper. 3 Travel with an operator that details its positive initiatives. If unsure, always ask: how do you support the local community? An ethical operator will have a comprehensive answer. 4 Tailor donations to suit the communities that you visit with the ‘Pack for a Purpose’ scheme (packforapurpose.org), and only take supplies that are actually needed. 5 Avoid commercially motived voluntourism projects. If you choose to volunteer, do so because that specific initiative has a genuine need at the time and it happens to coincide with your visit. POSITIVE NEWS: RECOGNISING AUSTRALIA'S PAST One of Australia's most…

JOURNAL Laos 1 Champasak and the 4,000 islands Explore Champasak, which lies on the banks of the Mekong River, close to the little-known ruins of Wat Phou, then visit the Frenchcolonial relics and waterfalls of the Mekong's 4,000 Islands. 2 Bolaven Plateau This lava plateau in the deep south of Laos is riven with waterfalls, homestays and dozens of tea and coffee farms and cafes to lure travellers to its cooler climes. 3 Nam Nern River Boat the Nam Nern River for an overnight camping trip on the fringes of the Nam Et-Phou Louey protected area. Spot kingfishers, Asian golden cats, eagles and monkeys, then sign up for multi-day treks through the cloud forest of Mount Forever, spending the night in hanging ‘nest’ tents close to a salt lick. namet.org/wp/namnern 4 Vieng Xai…

“I was so much more aware of everything; my senses were really alive”; “I found myself talking to more, and very different, people”; “It really opened my eyes in so many ways”. All these are familiar phrases that I typically hear from people who have taken their first solo trip in the past year or so. Solo travel is booming post-pandemic, with one Google Trends report in 2021 claiming that searches for the phrase were up 761%. It doesn't come as a surprise, as the trend had been curving upwards for years, and coming out of lockdown has only heightened our desire to get out in the world and live our best travel lives. Yet there is still a lot of ignorance around who the typical solo traveller is, with…

RASHMI NARAYAN Solo travel, p138 Travel writer Rashmi ponders the misconceptions associated with solo travel this issue: “My partner and I travel differently. Wanting to get out of my comfort zone, I hopped on a train recently for a weekend in Bruges and recalled how travelling alone can be invigorating, as it allows us to maintain that sense of curiosity about life and explore destinations at our own pace.” DR HANA PATEL Health, p30 A senior GP with a specialist interest in women's health, mental health and coaching, Dr Patel explains why your travels needn't end during menopause: “Travel should not stop, no matter what age of life we are in, or how our biology may challenge us! So, as a woman going through the menopause myself, I wanted to highlight and…

USA BY RAIL Having seen the many rail articles in your last issue [issue 227; Jun-Jul], I wanted to write in about my own train adventure. We have a daughter living in California, so it inspired us to find an interesting way to get there. Our latest journey was from New York to California using Amtrak trains, taking three weeks (hopping on and off). We booked every kind of seat from coach to bedroom; our only error was accidentally reserving the accessible bedroom once, which turned out to be a huge toilet with a sofa. The scenery varied from fabulous in the west to endless flatlands in central USA. We also chose to eat on board, and because the dining car only has tables for four, we always got to…

In one of the cultural events of the year, the much-anticipated Royal Collections Gallery in Madrid has opened to the public, finally completing a project that was first mooted in 1935. Visitors can view a collection that spans the Middle Ages up to the present day, with sculptures, paintings, tapestries and royal furniture collected over five centuries. coleccionesreales.es Passion and politics collide in a new exhibition at Adelaide's Art Gallery of South Australia exploring the relationship between two of the 20th century's most influential Latin American artists, Frida Kahlo (pictured top) and Diego Rivera. The gallery is showing over 150 works from the couple and their Modernist Mexican contemporaries in Frida & Diego: Love & Revolution (until 17 Sep), agsa.sa.gov.au Delve into the story of America's pioneering female aviator at…

IN ASSOCIATION WITH Readers get 10% off by using the code ‘Wandering’ on the Stanfords website: www.stanfords.co.uk. Wanderlust members can get 25% off - see p42 The Life Cycle by Kate Razoles Icon Books, £19 Join Kate as she pedals South America on a bicycle that she built from bamboo. Gliding through Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile, she uses her surroundings to ponder the declining biodiversity in the region caused by goldmining and logging. She remains optimistic by asking how we can change things ourselves. In Sardinia Jeff Biggers Melville House, £25 Part travel literature, part historical guide, Jeff uses his three decades of living and travelling in Italy to elaborate on a region that has been a beacon of civilisation since the Bron/e Age. Discover little-known historical sites…

Vital statistics Capital: There is no capital. Antarctica is a collection of territorial claims by several countries, including Argentina, Australia, Chile, France, New Zealand, Norway and the UK. Population: Around 4,000 seasonal scientific researchers and staff. Languages: International Time: GMT-3 (Antarctic Peninsula) International dialling code: +672 Visas: Not required by UK nationals. Money: No currency. The Port Lockroy shop takes UK sterling (£), euros (€) or US dollars ($), as well as credit cards. When to go Antarctica experiences some of the most extreme weather conditions on Earth, but the Antarctic Peninsula is among its mildest regions. November: Tourist season starts as the ice breaks up to form huge icebergs. This is when the cruises begin to set sail. December-January: Three species of penguins (gentoo, adelie, chinstrap) rear chicks in…

The maypole dances performed in the sultry Caribbean port of Bluefields, Nicaragua, are several shades raunchier than the gentle gambols staged on English village greens each spring. Sweaty, rum-soaked and pulsing with raw energy, the Bluefields maypole shakes to riotous drumbeats that hail from distant Africa .Yet this is just one part of a Caribbean coast that is as culturally diverse as it is fragile. Two autonomous regions, north and south, mark the fringes of eastern Nicaragua. Inland lies a flat, densely forested lowland with endlessly meandering jungle rivers, tropical savannah and swamps. Meanwhile, the coastline is fringed by hundreds of kilometres of unspoilt beaches and languorous lagoons, with islands, cays and kaleidoscopic coral reefs scattered offshore. Spain tried desperately to tame this region in the 16th century - first…

The 1836 Battle of the Alamo resulted in defeat for the Texans, who later used this as a rallying cry (“Remember the Alamo!”) in their subsequent revolution-winning battle against the Mexican army, which took place east of Houston a few months later. The word Alamo is actually Spanish for ‘cottonwood’, a tree that was flourishing in the area when the mission was built in 1718, and many think this is how it later got its name. An alternative theory posits that a battalion stationed at the site was originally from a Mexican village called San José y Santiago del Alamo, which was later shortened to El Alamo.…

“We spotted this female leopard sitting in a most unusual way at Sabi Sabi Game Reserve in South Africa.” Rebecca Gawley “The Monastery (Ad Deir) of the ancient city of Petra, Jordan, is worth going the extra mile (and steps) for.” @follawing.kt “I got to visit the croft on Scotland's Isle of Skye that these Highland ‘coos’ live on. They were very cheeky!” Ruth Keir “We stopped at Arizona's Saguaro NP to hike the Hugh Norris Trail and its huge cacti - to Wasson Peak (1,429m).” Carsten Wriedt “Capturing limestone formations and the star trails over the Pinnacles in Western Australia.” @thetravellingphotons “The Comur-Conserveira de Portugal store in the town of Obidos, Portugal, is filled with Colourful cans “ @Wsprinklewithkindness “The woods of Northamptonshire's Coton Manor have the largest carpet…

A 72,800-hectare nature reserve in China's Sichuan province is the setting for the new Rissai Valley, a RitzCarlton Reserve (pictured). Located in Jiuzhaigou (Valley of Nine Villages), this UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site and World Biosphere Reserve is known for its mountain scenery and rare species, including the giant panda. The 87-villa estate also offers lessons in Buddhist thangka painting. ritzcarlton.com Speaking of impressive locations, Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll opens this summer in Iceland's Asgardur Valley, at the edge of a remote mountain range deep in the central highlands. This 46-room hotel also has A-frame huts and a seasonal riverside campsite for those who want to get closer to nature. It will make a plush base for those hiking, snowmobiling and skiing in the area. highlandbase.is Riad-eum-art gallery Izza is due to…

1 Choose smaller, more manageable trips while you are adjusting to any new symptoms to avoid feeling overwhelmed by changing locations. 2 Consider the symptoms you are experiencing right now; for example, if your main problem is hot sweats, stick to cooler dimes until these are better under control. 3 Ensure you bring enough medication, such as HRT, when away to avoid perimenopausal symptoms spoiling your adventures. 4 Think about the type of hormonal preparation you use on holiday; HRT patches could be visible if you are swimming or dressed for a hot climate, so you may prefer to use more discreet gel preparations. Speak to your GP for advice regarding HRT medications that suit your lifestyle and any activities you might do. 5 Pack a hand fan for annoying…

Our Wanderlust: Off the Page podcast episode Exploring the Amazon Through Indigenous Eyes with Alex Robinson has just won ‘Podcast of the Year’ at the recent Latin American Travel Association Media Awards, So, congratulations to Alex! You can listen to this, as well as his popular Vietnam by Rail episode, via the Wanderlust website and on all the usual platforms. Look out too for new episodes on California road trips and exploring Azerbaijan.□…

EMBRACE THE DIVERSITY OF COLOMBIA It's easy to forgot just how diverse Colombia is. From the Caribbean vibes and colonial treasures of Cartagena to the misty forests of the Corcora Valley, to the barrios of urban capital Bogota, there's so much variety here. Abercrombie & Kent's Classic Colombia tour ticks off one favourite after another, but also spares time for some interesting detours as you stroll the peaceful streets of Guatapé, its old houses marked by intricate bas reliefs, or snorkel the coralfringed waters of the Rosario Islands. Added to this are visits to giant coffee plantations, delicious street food tours and a trip to a remarkable underground cathedral in a salt mine. Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent.co.uk). Year-round (best Dec-Apr); 10 nights from £4,450pp, including international flights. DISCOVER THE TWO…

While most voluntourists are well-intentioned, some projects exploit local people. In Cambodia, for example, there have been instances of families living in poverty being persuaded to place their children in ‘orphanages’ in exchange for handouts. These so-called orphanages then charge tourists to live on-site, play with the kids and teach them English, all without any security checks or need for childcare qualifications, in turn, the children can develop attachment disorders thanks to the quick turnaround of people. Sadly, the number of such places in Cambodia has risen in line with tourism over the last 30 years, according to the documentary The Last Tourist. A better way to help is to support local businesses so that people can look after themselves.…

Sometimes the phrase ‘best location in town’ is more than just a throwaway line. The setting for the Adlon Kempinski Hotel, just steps from Berlin's most iconic landmark, the Brandenburg Gate, was a coup even back in 1907 when it originally opened its doors. The early glory days didn't last long, though. The Adlon managed to survive both World Wars in Europe, only for the first iteration of the hotel to burn down in May 1945, just as peace was breaking out across the continent. It didn't fully come back to life until 1997, long after the city's reunification. This grande dame now rakes over an entire city square, and has a design that harks back to its origins in the early 1900s, with all rooms featuring Art Deco-inspired furniture.…

Getting there & around There are no direct flights from the UK to Laos. The author flew with Emirates (emirates.com), which flies from London Gatwick to Vientiane/Luang Prabang via Dubai and Bangkok from £1,000 return, taking from 20 hours. Lao Airlines (laoairlines.com) flies to Vientiane and Luang Prabang from Bangkok (main entry hub) from £74 one way. An app for buying train tickets was launched last December, but you'll need a local phone number to buy them. You can also contact a travel agency, who will charge a small fee but can also organise transport to out-of-town stations. When to go The weather in Laos is dry and pleasantly hot between November and April; the wet season runs from May to September. Cost of travel in Laos is inexpensive due…

1 Loango NP The jewel in the crown of Gabon's 13 national parks. As well as gorilla tracking, activities include game drives and river trips in search of forest elephant, forest buffalo, hippo and crocodile. 2 Pointe Denis & Pongara NP A 20-minute boat ride from Libreville, Pointe Denis is a popular seaside escape from the capital. Head inland for Pongara's beautiful forest, savannah and mangrove. 3 Ivindo NP Highlights of this wild park in Gabon's interior include a challenging jungle trek to the Koungou Falls and camping out at Langoué Baï, a natural forest clearing frequented by gorillas. 4 Lopé NP Lopé is renowned for its primates. Gorillas and chimpanzees are found here, but it's the large gatherings of mandrill (over 1,000 in a single foraging group) that stand out. 5 Crystal…

Protect wildlife: Do not feed, touch or handle birds or seals, or approach or photograph them in ways that cause them to alter their behaviour. Special care is also needed when animals are breeding or moulting. Also, do not damage plants by walking, driving or landing on moss beds or lichen-covered scree slopes. Don't pack a pest: At all times, ensure you follow the correct procedures to avoid introducing non-native species into the environment. This helps maintain the ecosystem on the continent and conserve it as much as possible. Respect protected areas: A variety of areas in the Antarctic have been afforded special protection because of their ecological, scientific or historic value. Entry into certain areas may be prohibited, except in accordance with a permit issued by an appropriate national…

1 Tintagel Castle, Cornwall Visitors are encouraged to follow a loop that takes them via the ruins and Gallos statue down to a museum and café in the bay below, from where you can get a shuttle up to Tintagel village, english-heritage.org.uk 2 Trebarwith Beach, Cornwall One of few accessible beaches along this stretch of North Cornwall. At low tide the sands extend a kilometre alongside cliffs pocked with caves some of which are quite deep. 3 Padstow, Cornwall The pretty port of Padstow has been nicknamed ‘Padstein’, thanks to chef Rick Stein's many seafood enterprises. During summer, its estuary is busy with sailboats and cyclists pedalling the Camel Trail (29km). 4 Château de Comper, Brittany Storytelling walks skirt the lake where legend says the Lady Viviane I ived, while an…

1 Museum of Menorca, Mahon Discover more about the island's prehistoric history, as well as its Roman, Byzantine, Islamic and British eras. There's also portraiture and abstract art up to the mid-20th century. museudemenorca.com 2 Camé de Cavalls Originally dating back to 1330, the Camí de Cavalls is an ancient bridle path which now forms a superb walking trail (185km) that encircles the island and also veers inland. Parts of the trail are currently being repaved and renovated with funds from the island's Sustainable Tourism Tax. spain.info/en/hiking-trails/cami-de-cavalls-hiking-spain 3 Cala Morell Necropolis Located just outside Ciutadella, these exceptional caves are one of the must-see sites on the island. Bring sensible walking shoes, plenty of water, and also allow some time to walk down to the cove below. 4 Geology Museum, Ferreries This…

BATS AND BRIDGES Each summer, nearly a million Mexican freetailed bats emerge from beneath Austin's Congress Avenue Bridge at dusk. The swelling cloud of chirping mammals billowing from their concrete catacombs is worth the wait. MAKING MUSIC Austin earned its'Live Music Capital of the World’ moniker due to two major festivals: Austin City Limits (aclfestival.com), an institution that evolved from an old TV show into a huge music festival, and cultural juggernaut South by Southwest (sxsw.com), which has been a popular launchpad for international music acts since 1987. FROM BEERS TO CHEERS Usually it's a case of old buildings being converted into hip breweries, San Antonio has flipped the cliché with its Pearl Brewery District, which has been repurposed from a brewhouse complex into a high-end stay, plus shops and…

Getting there: Both Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com) and British Airways (ba.com) fly direct from London Heathrow to Austin from £517 return; flights take from around ten hours. Austin's airport is modestly sized but noteworthy for its live-music stage. There are no direct flights from the U K to San Antonio, though several carriers, including United (united.com) and Lufthansa (lufthansa.com), offer reasonable options, typically with a stop in Houston. These cost from around £787 return and take from 13.5 hours. Getting around: Central Texas is notoriously behind the times when it comes to public transport, but you can easily grab a ride share or taxi from either Austin (20 mins; £25) or San Antonio (30 mins; £35) airports to their respective downtown areas. But it's often simpler to just rent a car,…

VISIT the village of Wrabness on the Stour Estuary, where Sir Grayson Perry's A House for Essex (living-architecture.co.uk) peers over the marshes of a wildlife-rich nature reserve. Admire from the outside or book a stay (from £1,250 for two nights) to peruse its interior, which has been decorated with handmade bottle-green tiles, brass and ceramics. EAT fresh seafood at the Company Shed (the-company-shed.com), tucked among the salt marshes and boatyards of West Mersea. This fuss-free shack draws foodies in search of platters of local crab, prawns, mackerel and salmon. It's BYOB, so stop at Mersea Island Vineyard, (mersealslandvineyard.co.uk) for a bottle of Island Dry beforehand. GRAB a pint at the Blue Boar in Maldon (blueboarmaldon.co.uk). This 14th-century coaching inn and brewery is one of the oldest buildings in town and…

1 On which famous hiking route will you encounter this incredible view? a. The Great Ocean Walk, Australia b. Gotemba Trail, Japan c. Inca Trail, Peru d. Dientes Circuit Trek, Chilean Patagonia 2 Which Scottish island is not included in the ten that make up the Hebridean Way? a. North Uist b. Eriskay c. Harris d. Skye 3 Britain's oldest National Trail runs for 431km between Derbyshire and the Scottish Borders. What is its name? a. South West Coast Path b. The Ridgeway c. Peddars Way d. Pennine Way 4 The GR20 is considered one of the toughest hikes in Europe, On which Mediterranean island will you find it? a. Corsica b. Sicily c. Sardinia d. Cyprus 5 The USA's 2,200km Appalachian Trail travels through 14 states. Which one is its southern terminus? a. Georgia b. California c. Florida d. Tennessee 6 In which Canadian…