Indholdsfortegnelse for April/May 2024 i Wanderlust

In a digital-first era, at the dawn of AI, we often ask ourselves about the future of printed books and, in our case, magazines. We're naturally biased: we love the feeling of physically turning pages, the smell and texture of (sustainably sourced) paper, the look of inspiring photography in print. In this edition, we want to celebrate our love of print by highlighting some of the most beautiful libraries (p148) you can visit around the world, many of them celebrated as much for their precious collections as for their magnificent ‘looks’. One of the finest examples is our cover star, Austria's Admont Abbey, which is home to the largest monastic library in the world. It boasts not only fairytale-like Baroque architecture, but also an outstanding collection of manuscripts. What's more,…

Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark, China Photographer: Alvin NG It's often when we think we know a place that we're surprised by it the most. Certainly, lush mangroves and basalt columns 140 million years in the making aren't what immediately spring to mind when anyone mentions Hong Kong. And nothing typifies the incredible wilderness that fringes the city better than the Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark. Among its 150 sq km of islands, beaches and peninsulas fuzzy with green scrub are rock formations dating back 400 million years. It is also just one of nearly 200 similar parks created since 2015, many of which feature in Gestalten's new book, The UNESCO Global Geoparks. Together, they tell a story far older than any city, and worth hearing if you're ever in…

“As the sun rises over Mallorca's Cap de Formentor and its lonely clifftop lighthouse, this incredible landscape can feel like it's leading you to the very edge of the world.” @ toothsinternationaltravelshots “I can see why the Lower Antelope Canyon in Arizona is a spiritual place for the Navajo Nation.” @alexander.coney “I had seen Kerlingarfjöll on Instagram before, but the Icelandic Highlands are a sight to behold in person.” @ jpr.photos “With its intricate stone carvings, the Queen's Stepwell in Bundi is a fine example of Indian architecture.” @handheldtones “A helicopter ride over the Bungle Bungles range in Western Australia reveals its amazing geology.” Mike Segal “The blues of Samarkand's Shah-i-Zinda – a burial place for royals and nobles – make it a photographer's dream!” Daniel Musikant “We were told…

SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE, KANGAROO ISLAND Heralded as Australia's first true luxury lodge when it opened, there was a real sense of loss when Southern Ocean Lodge was burnt to the ground during the devastating wildfires of 2020. Four years on, a phoenix has risen from the ashes. The 2.0 version has reclaimed the same clifftop spot overlooking the endless blue of the Southern Ocean, affording incredible views from its 25 suites. Guests are treated to sumptuous four-course dinners and access to the walk-in wine cellar, but its signature experiences are the real lure here; these are included in any stay and range from nocturnal wildlife spotting in conservation zones to guided walks exploring the island's flora and fauna. All-inclusive suites from £1,760 per night, with a minimum two-night stay; southernoceanlodge.com.au…

Never in my life did I expect to be invited to a royal coronation, much less one taking place within a territory of the French Republic. France's dalliance with a monarchy had come to a sharp end about 230 years ago – just ask Louis XVI. But it wasn't European royalty I was looking forward to meeting as I boarded a boat headed to what is known as ‘the island closest to paradise’. The road to paradise actually consisted of a ferry ride across the world's largest lagoon to New Caledonia's Isle of Pines, deep in the south-western Pacific Ocean. Even from the deck, the colours of the surrounding reef shone brightly. But as the island's silhouette became clearer, my attention was drawn away from the UNESCO-listed waters to the…

When to go In summer, the Salzkammergut lake district region is a joy, but it is also busy. Spring (May–Jun) and autumn (Sep–Oct) see the hiking routes and lakes empty. Winter is skiing season. Getting there & around The nearest airport to Bad Ischl is Salzburg. British Airways (ba.com) is one of many airlines to fly direct from the UK. Returns from London Gatwick cost from £84 and take 2 hours. There is no direct train from Salzburg to Bad Ischl, so take bus 150 from Salzburg train station (£13). Trains depart Bad Ischl for Bad Goisern and Hallstatt. Carbon offset A return flight from London to Salzburg produces 222kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how…

Sainte-Geneviève Library, Paris, France French architect Henri Labrouste believed that buildings should reflect their origins. So, in the mid-19th century, when he was asked to create the first major library in France attached to neither a palace, monastery or school, he turned to its history. Bolstered by booty following the Revolution and Napoleon's campaigns, the collection – originally a monastic library dating from the ninth century – had long outgrown the former abbey building in which it was housed. Labrouste created a cathedral of learning influenced by the architecture of Rome and Florence, resulting in an eye-catching blend of industrial guts and neo-Gothic grandeur, every bit as impressive as the architect's other Parisian masterwork, the National Library. Visit on Wednesdays and Saturdays at 4pm for ‘Discovery’ tours (in French; booking…

Best for: Art, architecture, history, music, museums, restaurants, cafés and bars Why go: Visit some of the most vibrant, culture-rich cities in Europe, full of history and atmosphere Route: Bregenz; Innsbruck; Salzburg; Linz; Vienna; Graz Bregenz, the capital of the state of Vorarlberg, hugs the shore of Lake Constance. It's a small city with an international feel, top-notch cuisine and stacks of charm. Pay visits to the Vorarlberg cultural museum, the equally striking Kusthaus Bregenz art museum, and the impressive St Martin's Tower (Martinsturm) in the Old Town, then finish by the lakeside watching the setting sun. And don't miss the Bregenz festival in July/August – it has world-class opera performed on a floating stage. From there you can take a direct train to the Tirolean capital, Innsbruck, a city…

Best for: Wine, wine routes, taverns, local produce, cakes Why go: Spend time in a Viennese café, winery or country heuriger to sample all the flavours of Austria Route: Wachau Valley; Vienna; Purbach and Rust; South Styria; Graz Austria's culinary highlights are myriad, and will take you from traditional taverns to Michelin-starred eateries, with a few excellent wine regions scattered in between. Start in the Wachau Valley, a stretch of the Danube that lies west of Vienna, between Krems an der Donau and Melk. This UNESCO-listed landscape is a ripe blend of vineyards, historic abbeys and castles, and is one of the country's finest wine regions, producing show-stopping bottles of grüner veltliner. The best way to explore the area is by bike, following the charming Danube Cycle Path. Try to…

When to go There's no wrong time of the year to visit Austria. There is sublime hiking between June and October, though you can expect snow on the high passes any earlier, and huts to be closed any later. Ski season runs from December to April, with some of the most reliable conditions from mid-January. March and early April can be a great time to ski in Austria minus the crowds. Advent in Vienna, Salzburg, Graz or Innsbruck is a magical period, thanks to its snow-dusted streets and Christmas markets. Equally, the long, balmy summer evenings in Vienna, when the cafés and bars spill out onto the cobbled streets and squares, are just as beautiful. Wildlife tends to be species-specific, with May/June good for butterflies in the Hohe Tauern and…

When considering which American cities have the highest concentration of museums and cultural centres, Houston doesn't usually spring to mind. Known primarily as a centre for the oil and gas industry – though NASA's spectacular Lyndon B Johnson Space Center runs a close second – few would pick it as an important hub for culture and the arts. Yet visitors will find no shortage of options in a city of more than 150 institutions, including some world-class museums that rank among the largest and most visited in North America. The epicentre for culture in Houston is the Museum District, a downtown precinct spanning 3.8 sq km and comprised of 19 museums and institutions within walking distance of each other. Eleven of these offer free access yearround, while others provide free…

AZERBAIJAN “It's positive energy!” declared my guide, Elhan, as he stood next to the eternally burning flame of the Ateshgah Fire Temple, a historic Zoroastrian pilgrim site. “The fire takes in the bad and gives out the good. But don't get too close,” he cautioned with a smile. In reality, the naturally burning ‘eternal’ flame actually went out in 1969; today, it runs on the country's vast petroleum reserves. And like much of Azerbaijan, it is a quirky metaphor for how old meets new. Take capital Baku, for instance, where two flame-shaped towers command the skyline. As well as being symbols of the country's Zoroastrian heritage, they also inadvertently tell the story of a nation minted on the oil wealth it no longer sends to the Soviet Union. The sense…

Visa-free Malawi The ‘Warm Heart of Africa’ is often overshadowed by its larger neighbour to the north, Tanzania. Even Zambia, with which Malawi shares its namesake lake, is a better-known safari destination. Yet Malawi boasts not one but two ‘Big Five’ sanctuaries – Majete Wildlife Reserve and Liwonde National Park – home to lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo. Both offer excellent value and superb guides. Now, discovering Malawi's wildlife, hiking the Mulanje Massif and snorkelling one of the world's largest freshwater lakes are much easier. Since 9 February, travellers from 79 countries – including the UK and Ireland – can visit visa-free for up to 30 days. A warm welcome, indeed. malawihighcommission.co.uk Bins with brains In the humid shadows of the rainforest, a flash of colour darts across the…

For most people, travel is a positive experience. But no matter how eagerly anticipated a trip may be, it can also be unsettling. Pressure can build up when you are away from familiar support systems. Likewise, lengthy journeys, crowds, irregular meals and the disruption of your body's circadian rhythms can all have a detrimental effect on your mental wellbeing. To combat this, plan ahead. If you have a pre-existing condition, discuss your travel plans with your specialist or GP; they can help you decide if this is the right time for you to go. Be sure to check whether suitable medical care is available where you're going, and consult the rules for carrying medicines – not all UK prescription drugs are legal in other countries. Travel insurance that covers all…

Abeid Soka was born in a village in the Kilimanjaro Region, in the shadow of Tanzania's highest and most famous peak. But it wasn't this mountain that inspired his childhood dreams; it was the sight of planes flying over his home, bringing people from all over the world to visit his country. Abeid had dreamt of being a pilot and of one day flying the planes that soared through the sky above his head. But it costs a lot of money to learn to fly a plane – money that his family didn't have. Instead, Abeid went to guide school so that he could join the ranks of the wildlife guides that meet the passengers off the planes and take them on safari. He improved his English, learnt how to…

When to go New Caledonia has a subtropical climate. The drier seasons are between April and May, and September and November. The January/February period is very rainy and muggy. Avoid Australian schoolholiday periods, as Australians are increasingly flocking to New Caledonia due to the short distance (two to three hours’ flight) from Brisbane and Sydney. Currency & visa Currency: CFP franc (XPF), currently around XPF140 to the UK£. Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Getting there & around There are no direct flights to New Caledonia from the UK. Your route will typically involve one or two stops. The quickest is via Singapore or Tokyo and then onwards with New Caledonia's flag carrier, Aircalin (aircalin.com). Qantas (qantas.com) and Air New Zealand (airnewzealand.co.uk) both…

Eva Rrasa swirled the grainy remains of my Turkish coffee around a dainty ceramic cup. She then poured out the last of the liquid into a saucer and observed the leftover granules clinging to the sides. “You're being followed by a man whose name begins with E,” she told me while holding my gaze. My eyes widened upon hearing the news, and she quickly moved to reassure me. “But don't worry; he doesn't want to cause you any harm. He's just watching you from a distance.” Together with her husband and children, Eva had welcomed me into her home in the rural village of Babunje, within western Albania's Divjakë-Karavasta National Park. My visit – and impromptu coffee reading – was part of a community-based travel experience. By staying in the…

When Hegert Leidsalu, of the Tartu City Government office, woke up on a cold and snowy Wednesday morning, he'd only expected to be doing a little driving. Sixty minutes later, I, a complete stranger, was massaging ash into his pert naked buttocks, as if basting him for the oven. Were we mortified? Most definitely. But at least we could blame our pinkening cheeks on the heat as we sweated politely inside a traditional smoke sauna in Haanja. This tiny village falls under one of 19 municipalities in southern Estonia that join the city of Tartu in celebrating its European Capital of Culture title in 2024. Nor are they alone. This year, the accolade is also being shared with two other cities: Bad Ischl in Austria and Bodø in northern Norway.…

When to go Deep winter sets in between November and March, when daylight hours are short and temperatures can drop to -10ºC, but it's a great time to see the aurora. Between June and July, the midnight sun barely sets and conditions (20ºC) are ideal for hiking. Getting there & around Norwegian Air (norwegian.com) operates direct flights to Oslo from London Gatwick, Manchester and Edinburgh from around £80 return and take two hours. From Oslo, Norwegian Air and SAS fly seven times a day to Bodø (1.5 hours; £70 return). The airport is five minutes from town by bus (£4.40 one way). Carbon offset A return flight from London to Bodø via Oslo produces 382kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable…

Best for: Alpine landscapes, hiking and the outdoors, hut-to-hut walks, long-distance trails, wildlife, gentle adventures Why go: Sublime hiking among some of the most spectacularly beautiful mountain scenery on Earth, plus excellent mountain biking and winter skiing Route: Tirol; Hohe Tauern National Park; Salzkammergut and Dachstein Almost 28% of the Alps lies within Austria. It is a greater proportion than any other country in Europe, and nothing defines this nation so immediately – and dramatically – as its magnificent mountains. The Austrian Alps are synonymous with beautiful mountain trails, boasting enough vivid scenery and epic views to last a lifetime. From lakeside strolls to legendary long-distance treks like the Eagle Walk (413km) across the mountains of Tirol, hiking in Austria is a hugely rewarding experience. And it's not just hiking…

Best for: Food, architecture, hiking, outdoors, shopping Why go: Scattered across mountain areas and beyond, Austria's small towns have a charm all of their own, with a boutique feel and no shortage of that cosy feeling of welcome known as gemütlichkeit Route: Kitzbühel; St Johann in Tirol; Zell am See; St Johann im Pongau; St Gilgen; Bad Ischl Start in Kitzbühel, one of the most beautiful of Austria's small Alpine towns. Its centre is a mix of cobbled streets and colourful facades, small galleries and cafés. The Kitzbühel Museum is a good place to learn more about the town, the surrounding region and its history. Then head up to the pretty Baroque town of St Johann in Tirol, the gateway to the great outdoor playground of the Wilder Kaiser. Continue…

El Salvador's rolling volcanic hills are peppered with ancient pyramids, ceremonial centres, Palaeolithic cave paintings and enigmatic statuary depicting the gods of rain, maize and fertility. But its present-day Indigenous Peoples are far more elusive. The 2007 national census found that just 0.2% of the population – around 13,000 people – identify as Indigenous, suggesting a culture on the brink of extinction. That said, there are reasons to doubt that statistic, with the real number maybe 40 to 50 times higher. As the Salvadoran linguist Jorge Lemus once observed: it is a difficult task to define a people that ‘have been made invisible’. Long before the arrival of Europeans in the 1500s, El Salvador was a thriving cultural crossroads met by soaring Mesoamerican civilisations to the west and formidable Isthmo-Colombian…

The will-they-won't-they friendship of Emma Morley (Ambika Mod) and Dexter Mayhew (Leo Woodall) has enraptured viewers of Netflix's adaptation of the David Nicholls novel One Day – which revisits the pair each year on St Swithin's Day (15 July). And while we certainly don't condone visiting Europe's busiest spots at peak summer, it's still worth following in their footsteps when the crowds disappear. That might be tough in Paris, though Emma's Parisian apartment in episode 12 at least lies in one of the capital's airier spots – in the 13th arrondissement on the left bank of the Seine. The historic tapestry-makers’ quarter includes the flowery oasis of the Cité Florale neighbourhood, tours of the famous Gobelins Manufactory and enough picturesque streets to indulge any wannabe flâneur. Rome's buzzy Trastevere quarter…

Curious travellers looking for insightful and enriching adventures often turn to experiences rooted in different cultures and communities. After all, what better way to get a feel for somewhere than by learning more about the local way of life or discovering age-old traditions? It's likely that many of us consider ourselves richer in knowledge and our understanding of the world thanks to our travel experiences. But have you ever wondered how much the host communities gain from welcoming tourists? In 2014, a report by the United Nations World Tourism Organisation found that ‘tourism leakage’ – whereby earned money is funnelled away from locals – was as high as 70% in Thailand and 80% in Caribbean countries. This is largely thanks to the abundance of foreign-owned operators, hotels and international supply…

When to go Between June and October is the dry season in Serengeti National Park, when you can expect sunny days (25–27ºC) and clear nights. Between May and July is when you'll see the wildebeest herds trekking north across the park, with river crossings typically sighted between July and October. The Serengeti has two wet seasons (Nov– Dec; Mar– May); these sandwich the hottest months (Jan– Feb), when temperatures are at their most fiery (29ºC), the land is a bright green colour and the crowds are much thinner. Visa & currency Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Currency: Tanzanian shilling (TZS), currently around TZS3,227 to the UK£. Getting there & around There are no direct flights to Tanzania from the UK. The author…

“Our ancestors are here. They'll walk with us today,” said Darlene Brander of the Red Earth Cree Nation and CEO of Wanuskewin Heritage Park, where we were gathered. “You're all here for a reason,” she added, looking at the assembled international visitors. It was only my first full day in Saskatchewan, but it had already been a stimulating and perplexing one. I was in Saskatoon for a tourism conference; however, despite several visits to Canada, I realised that I knew very little about its past. On arrival, for example, visitors had been welcomed to ‘Treaty 6’. One journalist looked puzzled and turned to me: “What do they mean by that?” I couldn't really answer. After years spent exploring Canada's wildernesses, this gap in knowledge was an open invitation to learn…

When to go Tartu doesn't suffer from Tallinn's summer crowds, but it does rain frequently during this time (Jun–Aug). We'd advise visiting in the drier shoulder seasons (Mar–May; Sep–Oct). Winters can be very cold (-20ºC). Getting there & around Air Baltic (airbaltic.com), Wizz Air (wizzair.com) and Ryanair (ryanair.com) fly direct to Tallinn from London Gatwick, Luton and Stansted respectively. Returns cost from £70 and take three hours. To get from Tallinn to Tartu, Lux Express buses – fitted with TVs and wifi – run regular departures from Tallinn Central Bus Station and take 2.5 hours (£12; luxexpress.eu). Car rental is available in town at Sixt or Europcar from £11 per day. Carbon offset A return flight from London to Tallinn produces 276kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to…

Best for: Art and architecture, museums, music, crafts and heritage Why go: Experience Austria's cultural riches, from superb art collections and museums to era-defining architecture, as well as some of the finest music venues in Europe Route: Imst; Salzburg; Salzkammergut; Vienna; Burgenland Austria has culture in spades. From the imperial court of the Habsburgs, where generations of patronage funded Europe's finest artists, architects and composers, to the traditional crafts and heritage practised in rural areas, there is plenty to mull over. Shrovetide carnival traditions, in particular, come with a distinctively Alpine flavour – and nowhere more so than in Imst, near Innsbruck. With its hand-carved wooden masks, colourful costumes and intricate dances, the Imst carnival takes place every four years, and is inscribed on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural…

Best for: Wildlife, the outdoors, wildflowers, lakes Why go: To see some of Europe's most iconic species, including rarities such as the great bustard Route: Hohe Tauern National Park; Gesäuse National Park; Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park Austria's diverse landscapes range from soaring Alpine peaks and lush montane pastures to forested river valleys and limestone plateaus, to wetlands and endless steppe. These incredible habitats provide refuge to an amazing array of wildlife, from colourful butterflies to Alpine ibex, and some fantastic birdwatching hotspots. Start your wildlife tour in Hohe Tauern National Park, the largest protected area in the Alps. It covers an area of 1,856 sq km and is home to around 15,000 animal species. The area around Grossglockner is particularly good for spotting raptors, including bearded and griffon vultures, and…

Located in the north-west corner of South America, Ecuador is one of the 17 most biodiverse countries on Earth – despite being little more than the size of the UK. And while most people immediately think of the Galapagos Islands when it comes to wildlife tourism here, that overlooks the 48% of its territory that is covered by the tropical forests of the Amazon basin. There is incredible wildlife and unforgettable landscapes to be found on the mainland, which many travellers miss out on. Because of Ecuador's equatorial location, and the difference in altitude between localities caused by having the Andes mountains cut an unwavering path across the country, different territories experience vastly different seasonal weather. So, when attempting a birding or wildlife itinerary, it's wise to prepare for all…

Legend has it that the bowl-shaped Kathmandu Valley once cradled a lake festooned with lotus flowers. Then bodhisattva (Buddhist saint) Manjushri cleaved the rock walls with his flaming sword to drain the waters – or perhaps it was Lord Krishna who threw the fateful thunderbolt. What's true is that the valley once lay underwater, and that it has been shaken many times by violent convulsions; some have been natural, others political, cultural and social. Throughout Nepal's history, the geological forces that forged 8,000mplus Himalayan peaks have sparked frequent earthquakes. Devastating tremors ravaged the region during the Middle Ages and beyond, including a major incident in 1934. And in April 2015, a 7.8-magnitude quake and aftershocks killed around 9,000 people and damaged more than 600,000 structures across the region. In human…

Growing up outside Berwick-upon-Tweed, I never appreciated its unique position in British history, or its shambling beauty. Anyone who has been on an East Coast Main Line train as it crosses the Victorian viaduct over the Tweed will have heard the intake of breath as passengers crane their necks for views over the red rooftops that tumble alongside the river to the sea. That was the moment I realised Berwick was special. As a child, it never occurred to me that the remains of a medieval stronghold would be out of place in a Somerfield car park, or that the Town Hall steps where I munched sausage rolls were the same ones that inspired one of LS Lowry's most famous paintings. Returning as an adult, I now appreciate not just…