Indholdsfortegnelse for Winter 2017 i Whisky Advocate

This we know: whiskey is beloved the world over. This we don’t: who, exactly, drinks it? We parsed the latest global consumer data and discovered some surprises. For example, did you know that you’re more likely to find someone downing a dram in Abu Dhabi than in Dublin, or that folks in parts of South America drink more whiskey than they do in Canada? Here’s a look at who’s sipping all that good stuff around the world and in the U.S. It’s not always who you think…. 70% of all whiskey produced in the U.S. is consumed in the U.S. Least Surprising Bourbon Drinkers Kentucky is the #1 consumer Most Surprising Bourbon Drinkers New Hampshire is #2 We’re Number Three! (per capita annual whiskey consumption, 2016) France 2.2 liters Uruguay…

The vast majority of whiskies are made from barley, corn, wheat, and rye, but little attention has been given to the world’s most important grain— and food crop—rice. A dietary staple consumed by billions of people around the world, rice has been used to make alcohol for millennia. “I used to be surprised when people would ask if rice was an actual grain, because I’m Asian and I grew up [eating] rice for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. This was our primary grain,” says Ann Soh Woods, founder of Kikori Whiskey. Along with Ohishi and Fukano whiskies, Kikori is part of the niche of aged Japanese rice spirits—something that qualifies as rice whiskey in the U.S. Rice whiskey derives from shochu, a Japanese spirit that can be distilled from dozens of…

White Tiger Distillery Stevensville, Maryland Itsara Ounnarth, who emigrated from Laos to the U.S. as a child, convinced his mother to teach him how to make traditional laoLao (literally “the alcohol of the Laotians”) from sticky rice. The high-proof unaged spirit is strong and spirituous, while the aged version, sold as laoLao Style whiskey, has notes of umami and spice. whitetigerdistillery.com MOtO Spirits Brooklyn, New York Hagai Yardeny journeyed by motorcycle through Southeast Asia, where he gained a taste for homemade rice spirit. Now he’s using California sweet rice to make unaged and roughly 10 month old whiskey in the distillery he co-founded next door to a motorcycle shop in Brooklyn. motospirits.com Vinn Distillery Portland, Oregon The Ly family emigrated from Vietnam by way of China in the 1970s, and…

WHO Olivier Humbrecht, owner and winemaker of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht FAVORITE STYLE single malt scotch GO-TO WHISKIES Highland Park, Talisker, Bowmore, Laphroaig, other Islay and Island whiskies HOW HE DRINKS Casual drams: cut with one to two parts water. Older whiskies: neat without water, except for particularly strong cask-strength whiskies. NEW FAVORITE Whiskies made with local barley, like Bruichladdich and Springbank. GREATEST DRAM Highland Park Saint Magnus 12 year old, circa 1940s or 50s COLLECTING ADVICE “You should always try to get three bottles. One to keep, one to drink, and one to exchange or share.” Independent bottlers “…often offer a much better quality-price ratio, especially if you look for cask selections, older vintages, and 20-plus year old bottlings.”…

MILK CHOCOLATE Arran 18 year old fresh citrus, honey, ginger DARK CHOCOLATE FEW Spirits Delilah’s 23rd Anniversary rye spice, Whoppers, char COCOA Tipperary Boutique Knockmealdowns 10 year old cinnamon, sultana, stewed fruits CACAO NIBS Exclusive Blend 1993 23 year old Brazil nut, blackcurrant, dark rum CHOCOLATE LOVER’S DELIGHT Let your palate be enveloped by smooth milk chocolate, or experience dark chocolate’s more tannic nature. Unwind with velvety cocoa and finish with the nutty, occasionally bitter depths of unsweetened cacao nibs. The aroma and flavor of chocolate is a pleasurable discovery when drinking good whiskey. It’s a prevailing flavor that appears in elegant Scotch whiskies, blended malts, single grain whiskies from the 1970s and ’80s, barrel proof bourbons, wheat whiskey, and even Indian and Taiwanese whiskies. Chocolate flavors are perhaps most identifiable…

FULL VIRGIN OAK Auchentoshan Virgin Oak 46%, $130 A Lowland single malt aged in fresh American oak for flavors of nutmeg, chocolate, and spiced orange. Benromach Organic 2017 43%, $70 A rare certified organic Scotch whiskey with vanilla, toffee, and banana flavors. Glen Garioch Virgin Oak 48%, $100 Heavily charred American oak meets Highland whiskey. A rich array of soft peach, vanilla, and wood. Octomore 7.4 61.2%, $250 A heavily peated, high-strength whiskey that delivers a skillful balance of sweetness and peat smoke. VIRGIN OAK FINISHED Deanston Virgin Oak 46.3%, $35 Candied fruit, heather honey, and apple frame this great value from the southern Highlands. Dewar’s Scratched Cask 40%, $25 Finishing in virgin and first-fill bourbon casks coaxes out sweet toffee, vanilla, and cocoa powder. Midleton Dair Ghaelach 57.9%, $270…

The taste of a fine whiskey in the company of good friends just makes you feel good. Choosing a whiskey that gives to a worthy cause, whether it’s conservation, military veterans, or historical preservation, can make the moment even more satisfying. When you sip some Macallan or Highland Park this holiday season, raise a toast to Edrington, the company that owns the brands and the largest independent grant-making trust in Scotland. The Robertson sisters, whose grandfather founded Edrington, set up The Robertson Trust, which remains Edrington’s largest shareholder and allocates all its dividends to charitable giving. Since 2012 the trust has directed over ?5.5 million to international charities. Edrington also offers a generous doublematch for contributions to charities by individual employees, ranging from regional food banks to the Kaohsiung Autism…

You’ve probably enjoyed your whiskey on the rocks and neat. Now prepare to turn up the heat. These top bartenders combine whiskey with hot tea, coffee, or cider, often laced with spices like cinnamon, ginger, and cloves, to create inventive whiskey cocktails that know how to get the job done. Whether battling a blizzard or just a sniffle, these warm whiskey drinks are at your service. Rye Chai Created by Adil Yamin, beverage director at Heirloom Hospitality for Prime + Proper and Townhouse Restaurants in Detroit, Mich. “This creamy, silky drink starts off with aromas of dark chocolate atop a layer of cold whipped cream, followed by the boozy fall spices. The ingredients give it a complexity that is perfect for the winter,” Yamin says. 1½ oz. WhistlePig 10 year…

Smart Distillery Exclusive Purchase Pays Dividends Before the surge in popularity of online whiskey auctions, Macallan released an annual bottling from a single sherry cask, available for sale only at the Speyside distillery. The cask strength releases were instantly recognizable by the rare handwritten labeling details and the colorful grosgrain ribbon with faux wax stamp encircling the bottle and carton. The series began in 2008, but by the time of the final release in 2013, Macallan knew whiskey collectors with a variety of motives in mind were prepared to travel long distances and queue for many hours to be one of the lucky ones to acquire a bottle. Recent prices show these exemplary expressions are now in a different league and rub shoulders with some of the most legendary Macallan…

“I see FarmStock 001 being a $10,000 bottle of whiskey within 10 years, says Raj Bhakta. It’s a bold prediction” from the founder of pioneering craft distillery WhistlePig, especially given that FarmStock 001 is the company’s first offering to include whiskey actually distilled at WhistlePig’s picturesque Vermont farm. Bhakta, however, has good reason for his optimism. The most recent release from WhistlePig, Boss Hog The Black Prince, a rye finished in Armagnac casks, launched this fall and retails for $500 a bottle—an unheard-of price for a craft upstart. The Black Prince has beaten out competition from Scotland, Ireland, Kentucky, and Japan to win a slew of awards, including the Best Whiskey in Show award from the San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Bhakta and others believe that Boss Hog is not an…

JULIAN VAN WINKLE, OLD RIP VAN WINKLE Crouch Distilling’s Jimmy Red Corn whiskey ANDY NELSON, NELSON’S GREEN BRIER DISTILLERY Willett and Smooth Ambler COLIN KEEGAN, SANTA FE SPIRITS Triple 8, Westland, St. George, Clear Creek PAUL HLETKO, FEW SPIRITS Westland, St. George Baller, Balcones (Chip Tate era) ROBERT LIKARISH, IRONROOT REPUBLIC Charbay, Balcones, Stranahan’s Snowflake…

Rosebank For many, Rosebank remains the finest of the Lowlands, with its subtle, floral, aromatic character. Rosebank Distillery is located beside the Forth-Clyde Canal on the outskirts of Falkirk, midway between Edinburgh and Glasgow. It was founded in 1798, finally closed in 1993, and Ian Macleod has recently announced plans to revive production. The plan includes the release of some potentially extraordinary whiskies acquired in the purchase. Much of the distillery remains intact, and Macleod promises a visitor center. Rosebank 21 year old (Diageo Special Releases), $700 Littlemill Littlemill Distillery stood on the north bank of the River Clyde at Bowling, twelve miles from Glasgow, and just a short distance from Auchentoshan. It dates from 1772, making it one of Scotland’s oldest distilleries at the time of its closure in…

Indian Made Foreign Liquor (IMFL) is an Indian designation for spirits styles that are not indigenous. IMFL includes products labeled as whisky (as well as rum, brandy, vodka, and gin) that are made in India, typically from a neutral base spirit derived from molasses, and blended with additives including artificial colors and flavors, locally made malt or grain whiskies, and/or imported whiskies. IMFL has no aging requirement, unless the label makes an age claim. A few IMFL whiskies are exported to the U.S., labeled as spirit whisky, including Officer’s Choice, McDowell’s, After Dark, and 8 PM. In general, they have feinty, acetone flavors with some cereal notes, but do not resemble whisky made only from grain.…

The chic, glass-walled restaurant where the Bangalore SMAC (Single Malt Amateurs’ Club) is meeting encapsulates the new culture of whisky that’s budding in India. The founder of the SMAC, Hemanth Rao, is an IT professional in his late 30s; he started the club a decade ago. “Back then I could count on my fingers how many people would actually be interested [in single malts],” he tells me. “But now, there are people who are genuinely interested and not only for the tasting sessions, per se. They’re actually interested in the whisky, the making of the whisky, and how it is in comparison with others.” This group includes both men and women, mainly other young and affluent professionals who work in the city’s flourishing IT sector. They go out to upscale…

MARS SHINSHU Komagatake Rindo Nature of Shinshu, 52%, $190 This fragrantly floral young whisky was aged in Japanese wine casks. Its texture is light and rather sweet, with a snap of pepper and soft fruits on the finish. Mars Iwai, 40%, $35 Despite an almost gamey nose resembling brown apples and old strawberries, the taste is pleasantly candy sweet. A finish of creamy chocolate, fresh mint, and more fruit. Mars Iwai Tradition, 40%, $55 From prunes to barbecue sauce, the aromas are potent. The thick texture pops with orange and mango, and drifts to black licorice, burnt oak, and Brazil nut. Mars the Lucky Cat “Ash 99,” 43%, $100 A syrupy mouthfeel with a sweetness that builds into spice. Fruit on the finish as the spices back off. Distinctively aromatic.…

Is that a pencil in your pocket? I didn’t think so. Pardon the Mae West quote—which she borrowed from Aristophanes, the both of them setting up a dirty joke—but it used to bother me how few people carried anything to write stuff down with. You know who you are. What bothered me was that I knew it meant that all the memorable stuff people encountered, all the great sentences, all the brilliant remarks, all the absurdities we bump into every day would be lost forever. I’ll make a mental note, folks say. Right. Mental notes aren’t worth the gray matter they’re written on. Real notes, however, are forever, or until you transcribe them in your commonplace book. What? Sorry—commonplace books are collections of quotes, notions, observations, idiocies, eavesdroppings, and other…

ALLEZ AU MONTREAL! Dear Whiskey Advocate, Nice article by Chantal Martineau about some of the things that happen in Montreal. Hope this is a warm-up to announce Whiskey- Fest’s coming to Montreal. Graham Cantieni Hi Graham, We were excited to discover all the whiskey happenings in Montreal. While we can’t make any promises to come to you, WhiskeyFest New York is just a short flight from Montreal. Hope you’ll join us someday! FOND MEMORIES Dear Whiskey Advocate, I thoroughly enjoyed Terry Sullivan’s “Grandma Knows Best” column detailing his first alcoholic drink. It reminded me of my first drink and I thought you might find it interesting. My father enjoyed a drink when he came home from work. I have a sister a few years older than me. It certainly wasn’t…

In decades past, game meat was only on the menu for those prepared to take to the woods with a bow and arrow or a gun. The rest of North America was left to enjoy farmed beef, pork, chicken, and turkey. But game meats represent an expansion of the carnivorous flavor palette that is worth seeking out for the spirited diner, offering new flavors and pairing potential. According to Hank Shaw, author of four game meat cookbooks, including Buck, Buck, Moose and the forthcoming Pheasant, Quail, Cottontail, the idea that there is a difference in taste between wild and farmed game is a myth. “Any dietary shift between the two presents itself in the fat rather than in the lean meat,” Shaw explains. “Since wild animals have very little marbling,…

Kikori, 41% Aromas of banana bread batter, wet clay, and sugar cookies give way to a fresh, mineral palate with poached pear, dried ginger, and chestnut honey. The finish is delicate—vanilla, cooked pears, and savory pie crust. Ohishi Brandy Cask, 41.6% A delicate, floral nose full of nectarines, berries, and plums. The flavor is nutty, with raisins, raspberry jam, and a rancio note that continues through the leathery, fruity finish. Fukano 2017 Edition, 42.8% Fruity and earthy on the nose, the creamy palate is a tug of war between sweet and savory with a clean, citrus finish packed with umami. Would pair well with dishes that don’t often go with whiskey, like olives.…

Asnifter of whiskey by the fireside is a wintertime cliche for all the right reasons. Nothing quite enhances the smoke of a single malt scotch or the warming jolt of a barrel strength bourbon like a flickering flame. Not fortunate to have a real fireplace in your home? Before you resort to the looping Yule log on your television, consider one of these bars. With stand-out fireplaces and fire pits, and great whiskey selections, they are well equipped to warm you—both inside and out. Bull & Bush Denver, Colo. Built in 1971 by twin brothers, this welcoming, British-style brewpub with lots of leather and a rustic copper-top bar from England hasn’t changed much in 46 years. Considering the brewing accolades they’ve won, that’s not a bad thing. Relaxing on one…

Absinthe, a high-proof anise-flavored spirit, may have the naughtiest reputation in the spirits world. Its mere mention evokes images of seductive green fairies, bursts of artistic creativity, and blithe stupors. A century-long ban will do that to a spirit’s good name. Blamed for a slew of social ills, from madness to murder to mere lollygagging, absinthe became one of the first victims of the temperance movement. The charges were largely trumped up. Nevertheless, the U.S. and most of Europe banned its sale and manufacture by 1915. So when the spirit, ostensibly of Swiss origin but made popular in fin de siècle Paris, legally reappeared here in 2007, it returned with the excitement of a long-forbidden pleasure. Alas, despite the hype, absinthe is not likely to bring on hallucinations, nor make…

In Scotland, whiskey may be a classic partner for shellfish and smoked seafood, but at Five & 20 Spirits and Brewing in Westfield, New York, the piscatorial pursuits are less about taste and more about finding sustainable synergies. In a partnership with TimberFish Technologies, wastewater from the distillery, containing grain hulls and other byproducts, is transformed into feed for fish, farmed at the distillery grounds. Prior to feeding hungry fish, Five & 20 used distilling and brewing byproducts to fertilize their farmland in the summer and paid to haul the waste to a municipal treatment facility the rest of the year. By eliminating the need to haul waste, the distillery saves money, lowers their wastewater pollution, and even reduces greenhouse gases, according to general manager Mario Mazza. Made possible through…

Whether it’s James Stewart’s surprise that his doctor prefers beer to whiskey in Harvey, Bogart sipping bourbon while pining for Bergman in Casablanca, or William Bendix ordering a bourbon with a bourbon chaser “in two separate glasses” in The Blue Dahlia, whiskey makes many cameos on the silver screen. But a few films feature whiskey to an extent that’s sure to equally delight cinephiles and whiskey lovers alike. Whether your tastes lean toward westerns or horror, single malt or bourbon, we have the perfect movie—and a whiskey to match. The Angels’ Share (2012) Ken Loach’s British comedy/drama is a must-see for whiskey lovers. A Glaswegian delinquent with a discerning palate for whiskey tries to start fresh after becoming a dad. He and his friends from a community service group embark…

On the surface, port seems to have little in common with whiskey. The former is made from fermented grapes and is notably sweet, while the latter is distilled from grain and sports more than twice as much alcohol. However, as a red wine fortified with distilled spirit, port pairs well with many of whiskey’s flavorful kindred companions—cigars, cheese, and red meat, for instance. With its legendary power and flavor intensity, port makes a wonderful diversion, certain to please both the wine and the spirits lovers gathered around your holiday table. Made from a handful of indigenous red grape varieties in Portugal’s Douro River valley, port can be classed into two broad groups: ruby and tawny. Ruby ports are aged briefly in large casks before moving to the bottle. While whiskey…

Remember when whiskey was just whiskey? The good old days when we picked up a bottle, sat by the fire with friends, and sipped while talking about the good life. We didn’t fret over political forces putting a wall between us and our whiskey. But that’s exactly what’s happening now. Politicians may be one reason behind the scarcity and rising prices of your favorite whiskeys. All around the world, due to its popularity, whiskey is political leverage. Brexit, the United Kingdom’s vote to exit the European Union, put Scotch whiskey in a tough predicament since it depends upon EU definitions and trade deals. Currently, the UK is debating the minimum age requirement for whiskey, with the Scotch Whiskey Association lobbying to keep the 3 year minimum. As it is written…

Marvin R. Shanken has been the editor and publisher of Shanken’s Impact Wine and Spirits Newsletter since 1973, and in 1988 was inducted into Scotland’s Keepers of the Quaich. Shanken has decades of experience conducting blind tastings for both Wine Spectator and Cigar Aficionado, for which he is also editor and publisher. In 2010, Shanken acquired Malt Advocate magazine, which later became Whiskey Advocate. He became editor and publisher in 2016. Jonny McCormick makes his home in Scotland, surrounded by single malt distilleries, and holds the honor of Keeper of the Quaich. A leading authority on rare and collectible whiskey, he began writing for Whiskey Advocate in 2006. McCormick applies his diverse whiskey experience as the lead Buying Guide reviewer for blended scotch, blended malt, grain, Irish, Japanese, and world…

Pappy Van Winkle The granddaddy of them all, a bourbon sought after by rock stars, Michelinstarred chefs, Wall Street titans, and almost everyone else. Buffalo Trace Antique Collection Sazerac’s annual release of George T. Stagg, William Larue Weller, Thomas H. Handy rye, Eagle Rare 17 year old, and Sazerac 18 year old rye. These exceptional whiskey are always less than $100—at least in theory. Michter’s Celebration Released in 2013 and again in 2016, Celebration may be the highest-priced American whiskey ever released—but the price pales in comparison to many single malts. Parker’s Heritage Collection Created in honor of late master distiller Parker Beam, Parker’s Heritage comes out just once a year—but it’s a wildly different style every time. This year’s is an 11 year old single barrel bourbon. Old Forester…

OPEN TO VISITORS WHISKY AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE HISTORIC DISTILLERY Annandale In November of 2017, Annandale’s first single malt in 99 years came of age, marking an early release of the first new production. Founded 2014 • 3 stills Annual capacity 500,000 liters A range of tours is available, including a fascinating tour by distillery owner professor David Thomson, available by special arrangement. Local produce is available in the Maltings Coffee Shop. Don’t miss Rascally Liquor, a new make spirit available in peated and unpeated versions. annandaledistillery.com Bladnoch The most southerly distillery in Scotland, some 70 miles west of Annandale via the A75 trunk road, Bladnoch is due to open a new visitor center and launch a tour program in summer 2018. Founded 1817 • 4 stills Annual capacity 1.5 million…

The drive to Amrut Distillery takes me through the crowded, frenzied, disorienting streets of Bangalore. As the car noses a dump truck festooned with garlands (“Horn OK!” reads the bumper in flowery, colorful script) and auto-rickshaws blare their old-fashioned klaxons, motorbikes loaded with two or three riders apiece weave through the gridlock. Slowly, we snake our way past carts laden with fruit; elaborate temples rising from behind concrete walls; gnarled Bodhi trees adorned with rainbows of flags, flowers, and images of the gods; and cows placidly munching garbage in the median. Finally, open highway—my whiteknuckled grip loosens just a bit—and the distillery looms in sight. There is no visitor center at Amrut, just a squat office building fronted by a few palm trees, with the industrial distillery buildings crowded behind.…

Paul John Exceptional, 50% A cup of chai with a side of fruit salad. The nose has chilies, ginger, mango, and melon, opening into an oaky palate with cascading layers of sweetness and spice. It finishes with persistent bitter leather and a slight citrus zing. Paul John Kanya, 50% Sweet rock candy elevated by a bouquet of flowers: hibiscus, roses, jasmine. Assertive structure undergirds an intensely floral palate, lending complexity to flavors of melon, oranges, papaya, and cocoa.…

PART OF BEING a luxury hotel is stocking a respectable whisky selection, but only a handful go the extra mile to woo whisky lovers with curated lists of rarities, private barrels, tasting programs, specialty whisky cocktails, food pairings, and more. Whisky regions like Ireland, Japan, and Kentucky play host to some great whisky hotels, but don’t discount Wisconsin, Beverly Hills, and Boston. Whisky fans appear in every corner of the globe and so do the hotels that cater to them. 21c Museum Hotel Louisville, Ky. Louisville’s hippest hotel focuses on art and whiskey and succeeds at both, with just 91 guest rooms and suites built around a contemporary art museum. Its vibrant lobby scene is anchored by Proof on Main restaurant, offering regional foods and more than 250 different American,…

The perfect gift for the whiskey lover in your life is, surprise: whiskey! However, we simply can’t condone precariously dangling a bottle of precious spirit from the fireplace mantle. When it comes to stuffing the Christmas stocking, these treasured tokens will remind the whiskey lover on your list that good things do indeed come in small packages. Daneson Single Malt No. 16 Toothpicks, $36/4 tubes Forget mint, these stylish birch toothpicks are infused with the robust, peaty flavor of Islay single malt. daneson.com McCrea’s Single Malt Scotch Caramels, $10 Jason McCrea is the guru of gooey, producing sweet and creamy parcels with inspired flavorings, like peaty Ardmore scotch. mccreascandies.com Old-Fashioned Carry On Cocktail Kit, $24 This TSA-friendly cocktail kit makes holiday travel a joy. Just add in-flight whiskey to make two cocktails. wandpdesign.com…

Kikori, Ohishi, and Fukano come from Japan’s Kumamoto prefecture, famous for its rice. Rice whiskey begins life as shochu, typically made from October to April, and often using the region’s Hinohikari rice variety. This is the process at Ohishi Distillery. Rice is polished to remove bitter starches. Steamed rice is combined with koji, a kind of mold, converting starches to sugar. 2 DAYS LATER Yeast is added to ferment—first moromi. 7 DAYS LATER More rice is added to create a larger batch, called second moromi. 2 WEEKS LATER Now 17-18% ABV, second moromi is distilled once in a pot still at low pressure. The total distillate, averaging 45% ABV, is now shochu and can be bottled immediately or put in casks. SEVERAL YEARS LATER Shochu that continues to age and…

Olivier Humbrecht, the owner and winemaker of the renowned Domaine Zind- Humbrecht in Alsace, knows a thing or two about taste. Many of his wines have scored over 95 in Wine Spectator, and the 2001 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Clos Windsbuhl Selection des Grains Nobles earned a coveted 100 points in 2004. With such a well-honed and refined taste in wine, it’s no wonder that the boisterous and friendly Frenchman also loves whiskey—specifically Scotch single malts—which he collects with a passion. Short weekend trips through the Highlands with his Scottish wife inculcated Humbrecht’s love of scotch. “I developed a taste for it pretty quickly,” he says. His whiskey selection slowly grew from a shelf, to a cabinet, to more cabinets, to an entire room in his cellar. But it was…

Grande Absente 69%, $65 Light green, nearly yellow in color, with oily, savory, almost buttery notes and a wormwood finish. Kubler 53%, $65 This relatively low-proof Swiss version is clear in color, fruity, and floral, with hints of Good & Plenty candy and wood, with an oily finish. La Fee Absinthe Parisienne 68%, $50 Reintroduced the drink to France after the ban. Bright green, it is particularly woody, with fruit notes as well as a chalky finish. Lucid 62%, $60 The first real absinthe to return to the U.S. after the ban. A nuanced mix of anise, fennel, and wormwood. Mata Hari 60%, $40 In the archetypal Bohemian style: light in color with underplayed anise. The palate is spicy, with mint and sage, and includes caramel, nuts, and some bitter…

Serious whiskey drinkers usually turn up their noses at sweet liqueurs, and with good reason: many are made with neutral grain spirit (think vodka) and packed with artificial flavors and neon food coloring. But these days, respected distillers are crafting inventive and flavorful liqueurs using their own aged whiskey. If you’re in the mood for an indulgent treat, you no longer have to risk ridicule. These whiskey liqueurs offer sweet satisfaction with natural flavors and aged spirits, ensuring your whiskey cred remains secure. FRUIT Stroma Malt Whiskey Liqueur 35%, $35 A blend of fruit flavors and single malt whiskey from Scotland’s Pulteney Distillery, this syrupy treat retains a backbone of oily character from the “maritime malt.” Its name comes from an island off the rugged Caithness coast and means “island…

2014 Lighter-bodied wines provide pleasure now, but will also benefit from 15 to 25 years in the bottle. 91 Cockburn Vintage Port Quinta dos Canais $55 A core of plum, blueberry, and blackberry coulis flavors, with an anise and fruitcake-filled finish. High-pitched and elegant. (2,500 cases made) 91 Quinta do Crasto Vintage Port $70 Solidly built, with a muscular core of plum paste, warm blackberry confiture, and Licorice Snap notes. Plush, with good length and drive. (700 cases made) 90 Churchill’s Vintage Port $47/375 ml A lively core of plum, anise, and açaí berry flavors keeps the energy up through the bramble and mint-edged finish. (160 cases imported) 2015 Wines of depth, structure, and ripeness that will go the distance for decades. 96 Graham’s Vintage Port The Stone Terraces $210…

First Operational Rare Malts Distillery to Go Stellar Clynelish is having a moment. Auction prices for Clynelish Rare Malts Selection bottlings have jumped sharply, the first of the featured distilleries still in regular production to consistently generate high values. Rare Malts Selection whiskies have long been popular at auction, though collectors have concentrated their spending on the major closed distillery names from the series: Brora, Port Ellen, Glenlochy, Rosebank, and St. Magdalene. Historic bottlings from working distilleries have not received the same reverence. Clynelish releases were early bottlings in the series, dating from the period 1972–1974, and bottled between 22 and 24 years old. The modern Clynelish Distillery has been in operation for the past 50 years and resides next to the old Brora Distillery, closed in 1983. Brora bottlings…

Many imbibers of fine brown spirits view vodka as something best left for the masses. As Tony Abou- Ganim writes in Vodka Distilled, it is, “Often passed over as a spirit category of interest…at times given a bad rap.” That was as true when Abou-Ganim penned his book in 2013 as it still is today, although the merciful slow fade of flavored ‘confectionary’ vodkas has at least returned a small amount of dignity to the spirit. Yet even for drinks aficionados who are dismissive of it—and they shouldn’t be so harsh, but more on that later—vodka has its lessons to teach. This became apparent to me when I tasted two new vodkas from British Columbia distillery Goodridge & Williams. As I sampled each vodka separately and neat, it struck me…

Pappy Van Winkle If you think Pappy Van Winkle is hard to get now, just wait ten years and see what happens. Buffalo Trace Single Oak Project A set of 192 single barrel bourbons, each barrel made from half of a single tree from different parts of a forest. Westland Garryana Partially aged in barrels made from Garryana oak native to the Pacific Northwest, offering a distinctive flavor. Buy the younger releases now to compare against more mature ones down the road. WhistlePig FarmStock Every year, FarmStock will evolve to include more of WhistlePig’s own whiskey, at older ages. A case study in the art of blending. St. George Baller A California take on Japanese whisky from one of the country’s oldest and most prestigious craft distillers, with a stunning…

Auchentoshan 12 year old 40%, $45 The nose offers tropical fruit and honeyed vanilla, emerging nuts, and dried spice, banana, and almonds. The texture is slightly oily, and the palate features tangerines, caramel, vanilla, and fat cereal notes. Rounded and balanced, with a long, drying finish. Auchentoshan American Oak 40%, $40 An initial note of rosewater on the nose, then Madeira, vanilla, developing musky peaches, and icing sugar. Spicy fresh fruit on the palate, chili notes, and more Madeira and vanilla. The finish is medium in length, and spicy to the end. Bladnoch Talia 25 year old 49.2%, $385 Finished in new American oak casks; it’s sweet and floral on the nose, with violets, Jaffa orange, and fragrant fresh oak. Medium to full-bodied, with rich fruit notes, praline, malt, and…

Amrut Single Malt, 46% Chocolate pecan pie, gingersnaps, cinnamon, and bananas mingle with cedar spice and incense on the nose. Tongue-coating oiliness, dried fruits, chocolate, and ginger cake lead into a milk chocolate, buttered pecan finish that just doesn’t quit. The original Indian single malt rightfully retains its crown. Amrut Peated, 46% Scents of melon, fresh herbs, tea leaves, mango, banana, and papaya carry through on the palate, where brine, green apple and pineapple candies, jackfruit, and salted parsley leave me craving more. The Scottish peat is evident, but the structured fruitiness gives this whisky a soft edge that isn’t often found in scotch. Amrut Two Continents, 46% Progressing from perky and lively to refined and commanding, this whisky combines vanilla pudding and horchata with a generous topping of mango,…

HOT HOT HEAT All of India’s single malt distilleries experience searing heat during at least part of the year, leading to a high angels’ share and intense wood extraction. “Nine years and nine months is amazing whisky,” Surrinder Kumar says, but, “Nine years and ten months—finish.” Most distillers propose that one year of age in India is equal to three or four in Scotland. HOW HIGH? India’s liquor laws vary by state, and nearly everywhere the maximum ABV for a whisky is 42.8%. (In Karnataka, whisky can be bottled at up to 46% ABV.) That means cask strength whisky is out of the question in India—although distilleries can still export higher-ABV whiskies. LEGAL MATTERS Government regulation of whisky can be lax (there’s no requirement for wood aging, for example), but…

Between forests, mountains, and a wide river, Japan’s Mars Shinshu Distillery in Nagano is making whisky at full capacity again after taking a short break—for nineteen years. In 1989, a tax reform forced Japan’s distillers to nearly double whisky prices. Many small Japanese distilleries either reduced their production or closed down entirely. While it seems hard to imagine today, there was so little demand for whisky that in 1992 Mars Shinshu abandoned whisky completely in favor of brandy. The now legendary Karuizawa and Hanyu Distilleries were able to hang on until the turn of the millennium. Now, Mars Shinshu is just one of at least ten small distilleries to join the nation’s leading distillers—Suntory and Nikka—as silent distilleries come back to life and new passion projects emerge. The movement spans…